Mag Base Drill Setup

[LG63]

I’m planning to help a friend make some brackets for a tractor front loader later this spring and I suggested we rent a mag base drill to drill the holes. Neither of us have ever used a mag drill and at $50 for four hour rental we would like to be able hit the ground running. My thought was to have everything center punched and possibly center drilled before picking up the drill. This got me wondering how difficult it is to get the drill lined up over the intended location. The holes will be 13/16 or 7/8. Still debating on whether to use an annular cutter or a S&D bit.

Can someone enlighten me as to how the drill is positioned when using an annular cutter? Is it simply eyeballed or is there some sort of centering attachment that fits in the spindle?

Also is 1/8” thick steel thick enough for the magnet develop the pull need to drill a hole? I see where mag base drills are rated for their maximum pull on fairly thick steel.

 

[sc3013]

It's no problem setting up a mag. drill, we used them a lot where I worked. Just turn OFF the mag and slide into position then turn ON the mag. Just make sure you chain that thing down, they will make a wild time when they come lose. And I have the scares on my leg to prove it.

 

[racingtadpole]

If you are only drilling 1/8" plate a decent quality bimetal holesaw will do the job and you wont be under the pump to get it done in 4hours.

 

[Rusty32]

1/8 steel wouldnt be thick enough. It would pop off with any kind of pressure. I only have experiance with the milwaukee mag drill. Maybe others are differant. Mine I need a minimum of 3/8 for any kind of usable pressure.

 

[LG63]

If you are only drilling 1/8" plate a decent quality bimetal holesaw will do the job and you wont be under the pump to get it done in 4hours.

Most of it is 3/8 plate but the base of the drill base won't always rest on the same plate. I've used hole saws before but would like to try a mag drill on this project.

 

[A_Pmech]

I would take the brackets to a machine shop and have them drill the four holes. It will cost you about the same as renting a magnetic drill press and you'll get it right the first time.

If you're in the central IL area send me a PM.

 

[_Dock_]

Center punch then use a step bit to open it up to size, then finish with a jobber bit to get the exact size you need. No reason to use the mag drill in my opinion, not sure how many you need to drill though...

 

[LG63]

All good suggestions, but back to my original question. When using an annular cutter is there a way to locate the centerline of the cutter precisely to a center punched position or is it simply an eyeball operation?

 

[cyamaha2007]

Id skip the mag drill. Ive had them come loose numerous times when used on thin steel. If we were working with 1/2in or thicker it would be a different story.

 

[A_Pmech]

All good suggestions, but back to my original question. When using an annular cutter is there a way to locate the centerline of the cutter precisely to a center punched position or is it simply an eyeball operation?

Annular cutters have provisions for a pilot pin. You install the pin in the cutter, center the cutter over the punch ***** using the sharp end of the pin, set the magnet, remove the pin and drill the hole. Some cutters have spring-loaded pilot pins.

 

[LG63]

Annular cutters have provisions for a pilot pin. You install the pin in the cutter, center the cutter over the punch ***** using the sharp end of the pin, set the magnet, remove the pin and drill the hole. Some cutters have spring-loaded pilot pins.

Thanks.....exactly the info I was looking for.

 

[crf731]

Here is a sales video from Houghan. At about 1:15 it shows what you are asking.

we use these all the time at work, they work great.

 

[joe49]

The mag drills or sluggers won't hold on 1/8.

 

[LG63]

The mag drills or sluggers won't hold on 1/8.

Just curious as to how thin you can go.... 3/16? 1/4?

I remember seeing one used on a truck frame that couldn't have been much more than 3/16" but he could have had piece of plate in the C of the frame that I didn't' see.

 

[msnow]

1/4" is kinda the minimum of mag drills for real effective use (this also depends on your feed rate and the size hole your drilling since the drill point pressure is what the magnet is trying to resist). What we do when we want to do thin plate like that is either also clamp the mag drill to the plate or ratchet strap it to the plate. Make sense?

 

[Richard D]

I drilled 3"x1/8" box tubing and mine didn't come loose. If you are near Houston you can use mine.

 

[HAP]

I drilled 3"x1/8" box tubing and mine didn't come loose. If you are near Houston you can use mine.

Holding and aligning the 80 lb drill for a verticle job can be quite a task. I drilled in 3/16" steel this way and it did not move or come loose. Wore me out after the 4 th hole from lifting and positioning the machine.

 

[tatra]

if using to drill sideways, secure the drill while in use with a strap or something , a breaker tripping or power outage and down she goes on your toes......

 

[joe49]

Just curious as to how thin you can go.... 3/16? 1/4?

I remember seeing one used on a truck frame that couldn't have been much more than 3/16" but he could have had piece of plate in the C of the frame that I didn't' see.

You can lift it up on 1/2 plate with any bit over 1/2, It will hook up on thinner but limits you and is likely going to come loose. Your better off to drill by hand thru 1/8 using a step bit, or on a drill press. If you have a thick steel bench you could clamp your 1/8 to the bottom of your bench top and use the mag drill off the top. You can also get roto broach bits for hand drill use Kimball Midwest is one source as is McMaster Carr, they work well.

 

[Kevin54]

I’m planning to help a friend make some brackets for a tractor front loader later this spring and I suggested we rent a mag base drill to drill the holes. Neither of us have ever used a mag drill and at $50 for four hour rental we would like to be able hit the ground running. My thought was to have everything center punched and possibly center drilled before picking up the drill. This got me wondering how difficult it is to get the drill lined up over the intended location. The holes will be 13/16 or 7/8. Still debating on whether to use an annular cutter or a S&D bit.

Can someone enlighten me as to how the drill is positioned when using an annular cutter? Is it simply eyeballed or is there some sort of centering attachment that fits in the spindle?

Also is 1/8” thick steel thick enough for the magnet develop the pull need to drill a hole? I see where mag base drills are rated for their maximum pull on fairly thick steel.

Locations of members always help, especially in situations like this. You have a chance to use one for freebies if you are in the area. If you are around my area PM me as I have a mill.

 

[metalhead212121]

if using to drill sideways, secure the drill while in use with a strap or something , a breaker tripping or power outage and down she goes on your toes......

never thought about something like that happening... thanks for the heads up!

 

[jrlp]

I have the Milwaukee mag drill with the adjustable base. Set the magnet close, and I have 2" front to back movement, and it slides left to right about an 1.5", and it rotates a good 4" arc. Tighten the adjuster in back and drill, Makes it much much easier to align compared to one-piece bases.

I've used it to drill 3/16" before, but only with hole saws. Couldn't get enough downward pressure trying to run larger bits. As far as s&d bits, you don't really need 'em depending on mag drill. They either come with an annular cutter hole or a 3/4" chuck. I have the 3/4" chuck and made the annular adapter and an mt3 taper adapter. I don't loose any travel because the drill body and sled have several mounting holes for different length bits.

For light gauge cutting I prefer hole saws to annulars, it just feels better that way. I've chipped a tooth on an annular drilling 1/8" and it caught.. wasn't a fun ride.

 

[gorilla]

I've drilled hundreds of holes in 1" SST plate with a mag base drill both with twist drills and annular cutters. The trick to holding the drill on non magnetic materials or thin materials is simply to clamp or tack weld a 3/4" piece of steel on the workpiece for the drill to hold on to.

 

[PSE driver]

I use my Hole Maker Mag Drill on my welding table that has a 1/4" top. It works well for everything I've done.