Mag drill

[Dmoen]

Hey guys, I install quite a few 5th wheels in new/ slightly used pickups. Worst part of it, for me is drilling the 4" hole in the box. I used an electric dealt on the first couple. Then I bout a snap on 1/2 air drill. It's a great drill, lots of power, Well balanced. But there is always room for improvement. If I can do something easier, I will. As long as it's not cutting corners. I have been pondering a mag drill to do this task. Never have used one. Main issue, will the magnet have strong enough hold on the painted box, sometimeseven through thick line-x to not catch with a 4" hole saw?.

If you've never done the job, drilling through a truck box kinda *****. With the ribs, the hole saw likes to "catch". So I have to run it backwards sometimes. Also, my air supply *****. But nothing I can do there. Not my shop, can only work with what I'm given. But I buy all my own tools, and am willing to buy a used mag drill. Even if will only work on the ones that are not line-x'ed. Just worried about it catching and spinning the drill around!

 

[RedneckWelder]

I don't know if it will work in your application but I want to say that you should be able to rent one at a place like Sunbelt to try it out.

 

[nine4gmc]

I don't have much experience with mag drills but from what I have dealt with, they require at least a 3/8" thick steel to clamp correctly. Mine will not stick to sheet metal AT ALL, paint or no paint. It will however stick to painted 3/4" and you can not move it. I don't think a mag drill will work for your needs but I may be wrong.

I would look into a large corded drill like this:

 

[Strouty]

I think a mag drill would be a bad setup for pickup truck boxes. Between the thin metal and the fact that some may have bedliner on them you are probably asking for trouble. I would get a drill that has a nice long handle and just use that.

 

[Dmoen]

My air drill does work rather well, and have no problem controlling it. Just have to stop half way to let the compressor catch up.

 

[dr_clyde]

I wouldn't use a mag drill. There won't be enough for the magnet to stick to and you'd be asking for trouble. I think the air drill is the safest option. If a hole hawg or similar electric drill catches you're looking at some seriously dangerous torque. An air drill will just stall.

 

[Dmoen]

Exactly my concern^^ granted my air drill does not "just stall" it damn near breaks my wrist and has me spinning like a top. But i have a concern it would send the mag drill spinning and damage everything in sight lol. Glad I asked, was pretty sure it wouldn't work, but you never know if someone here has tried or not. I won't be the. First to try. This thread can just as well be deleted. Thanks guys

 

[ishiboo]

Hey guys, I install quite a few 5th wheels in new/ slightly used pickups. Worst part of it, for me is drilling the 4" hole in the box. I used an electric dealt on the first couple. Then I bout a snap on 1/2 air drill. It's a great drill, lots of power, Well balanced. But there is always room for improvement. If I can do something easier, I will. As long as it's not cutting corners. I have been pondering a mag drill to do this task. Never have used one. Main issue, will the magnet have strong enough hold on the painted box, sometimeseven through thick line-x to not catch with a 4" hole saw?.

If you've never done the job, drilling through a truck box kinda *****. With the ribs, the hole saw likes to "catch". So I have to run it backwards sometimes. Also, my air supply *****. But nothing I can do there. Not my shop, can only work with what I'm given. But I buy all my own tools, and am willing to buy a used mag drill. Even if will only work on the ones that are not line-x'ed. Just worried about it catching and spinning the drill around!

Bad news - a mag drill won't work. Good news - a big right angle drill will and will be much cheaper! I have 2 Dewalt dw460s, they're rated for a 5" hole saw in steel and will do it no problem.

With the brace handle they are also fairly easy to use... The heft will make it much easier to drill than a little air drill.

 

[Heavy Metal Doctor]

..





<<<<------Plasma cutter??

But seriously, I'd probably stick with a drill / hole saws. As others have said, as mag drill needs a smooth area to lock onto that probably worn't work with the ribs in a PU bed.

 

[FullRaceMerc]

...a big right angle drill will and will be much cheaper! I have 2 Dewalt dw460s, they're rated for a 5" hole saw in steel and will do it no problem.

With the brace handle they are also fairly easy to use... The heft will make it much easier to drill than a little air drill.

I use a Milwaukee right angle drill for large diameter holes in framing, stucco, & occasionally coring thru a concrete curb. It is basically the same drill as shown in post 3 above with a right angle gearbox installed before the chuck. The long handle helps you overcome the torque when it binds, but it still will throw you around if you're not prepared for it. Having something to brace the handle against helps. The right angle gearbox is reversible, so you can have more torque at a lower RPM, or vice versa. I don't use the little red handle & normally have the drive rotated towards the back as compared to this pic. That way I can brace against the top of the drill without the risk of my hand getting caught.

Another thought. Don't you have to drill other smaller holes in the bed? Could you make a plate that would bolt to those holes & then mount a small bench top drill press to the plate? Once you got it set up it seems like it could be used over & over. Maybe even with a couple of different patterns if you use different models. Add pre cut blocks around it to space it off of different beds & it could be a template for the small holes.

 

[kf4zht]

Too thin for a mag drill as others have said. If I was doing several I would use a plasma cutter and circle jig.

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

 

[Bobcat753]

Please don't use a plasma cutter. There is usually a fuel tank sitting right below the bed where you are drilling/cutting.

 

[lotsoftools]

How about building a jig? Cut the 4" hole in a thick piece of wood (2x8 or so). Place the wood where you want the hole in the bed, then stand on it. The hole in the wood wil make the hole saw stay flat against the bed when you drill and you'll have less chance of it getting snagged.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Are you doing this dry? Dish detergent and water in a spray bottle makes a cheap coolant that works well.

 

[metaldad]

the straight milwaukee that nine put up will break your wrists when the hole saw catches.
the right angle milwaukee that full put up, when it binds, if you are not standing in the way, will not hurt you. do not 'block or brace' the drill.
i do speak from experience

 

[rockwithjason]

I wonder if you put a piece of 3/8 plate on the bet and then put the mag drill on it would it have enough magnetic flux to hold? I would have to try it and see

 

[Dmoen]

No on the plasma cutter. a jig is really not needed. And when I install a 5th wheel I only cut the 4" hole, and completely install the plates and braces. Then I go from underneath and drill pilot holes through the chain hook holes. Then I go from the top with a tapered u I bit and finish. Works well for me, cAn do them fast enough to make good money on them. Just trying to make excuses to buy more tools I guess haha.

 

[Dmoen]

I wonder if you put a piece of 3/8 plate on the bet and then put the mag drill on it would it have enough magnetic flux to hold? I would have to try it and see

You can try it and let me know. I won't chance it. Customers get pissed at scratched up boxes on new trucks the way it is. Don't need a mag drill and a hefty plate of steel flying around.

Let me know what you find

 

[Slackerzinc]

I don't think you can use a 4" bit in a mag drill.
Mine only allows me to go up to 1 1/2" bit

 

[FMC1959]

..... Just trying to make excuses to buy more tools I guess haha.

I am kind of like you (and many others on this forum), we are not always looking for the perfect answer, just justification to go ahead with another tool purchase.

I have been looking into a mag drill myself and there are many that with a 1/2" of steel will hold plenty, there might be some that hold on 3/8" or less.

As for what Slackerzinc says, this is quite true. Your choices are limited and those that do make 4", the drill itself will be pricey, maybe $4000 or more. The annular bit will probably be at least $500 or more. I know Alfra (German) makes a 4"
http://www.alfra.de/us/products/drilling/

Finding them used on CL, I already find there aren't many mag drills for sale used, one that handles 4" might come along once every 5 years.

But a mag drill is a cool tool....if possible, get one!

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Its too bad beds are "ribbed for towing pleasure"...otherwise I'd say look for a 4" knockout punch...I think trying to punch one would flatten the ribs out in that area.

I've seen a hydraulic one capable of punching 5"+ holes in 10 gauge all day...quick, safe, wouldn't scratch a thing.

 

[CodyY]

Hole saw attachment on a 7" grinder would be a nice efficient way to go. Pop your pilot hole and git'er

 

[Zeke]

Hole saw attachment on a 7" grinder would be a nice efficient way to go. Pop your pilot hole and git'er

Might be to fast for a hole saw. Are you talking about some kind of abrasive cutter like a diamond saw?

A jig saw would work as well.

 

[sberry]

I would b considering holehawg in battery drill, very safe.

 

[CodyY]

Might be to fast for a hole saw. Are you talking about some kind of abrasive cutter like a diamond saw?

A jig saw would work as well.

 

[tarbellb]

If you really want a mag drill, maybe consider a universal jig that holds a plate and mag drill?

You could do some sort of bar extensions that go from side to side of the bed, with a metal plate attached, then mag drill to plate (or just rigged to the extensions)?

If that sounds like to much effort, I agree with a air gun or battery right angle w/ 4" hole saw.

 

[Milton Shaw]

Concrete core drill might meet your requirements. They will handle bits up to 8" or so and usually have a base you could modify to stand on and then have a drill press type control over the bit. An abrasive core bit would not hang up as much as a hole saw does and difference in cutting speed would not be much on thin truck bed material.

 

[TOOL FANATIK]

a 3/4 super hole shooter would fit the bill. just make sure youre holding on for dear life, there's nothing worse than your bar getting you in the throat.

 

[bigredmf]

I was helping my FIL set up his new plumbing van and used a right angle Milwaukee Hole Hawg with a 5-1/8" bit to open a hole in his shelving. Well it caught and hit me in the face. I asked him how bad it was and he said not too bad but to look in the mirror.

My mouth was closed but I could see my teeth. Twelve stitches later and all was well.

Respect your tools.

Red

 

[Fugio]

I've gotten to the point that I can cut really nice holes with a 4.5" angle grinder and metal cutting blades (the thin ones that come in packs of 10).

 

[hippie2cams]

I just wonder why such a large hole would be needed for a 5th wheel hitch, that sounds more like a gooseneck hookup needing a 4in hole

 

[Dmoen]

I just wonder why such a large hole would be needed for a 5th wheel hitch, that sounds more like a gooseneck hookup needing a 4in hole

You are correct sir. They are turn over ball goose necks. We just refer to them as 5th wheels. i know, 2 different things. Should have been more clear.