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Mag Drills

ToddW

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Anyone regularly use a mag drill?

Curious which one provides the strongest magnet on the thinnest material?

Some I've heard are min. 3/8" while others people can run 3/16".

I don't have a need to ever drill through more than 1" plate, so I was looking at the hougen 'compact' unit, but it doesn't have a fluid system from what I saw, and I know keeping them lubed is important.

Thoughts? :thumbup:
 
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JimRB

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Jan 2, 2016
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I looked at the EVOMAG42 specs and they say 3/8". It has a fluid system. I have two in my garage that I fixed. My friend's welding company does not believe in carrying cases so they tend to tear things up in stupid ways. The one had a bad wire inside. The second had a bad switch. Just normal wear and tear from abusive users. He has a third one. I need to return these sometime as I don't have a need for them.
 

Jbullfrog

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If it's thinner then 3/8", just use a drill guide. Mag drills are meant for thick stuff that you need to keep pressure on a drill to go thru.
 

tarbellb

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Most use a Electro mag, thicker means better adhesion.

Interestingly though, Magswitch who makes rare earth welding (and other) supplies came out with a nice looking unit that uses similar tech for a Magdrill

Magswitch Disruptor 30 - http://magswitch.com.au/product/magdrill-disruptor-30/

Cant find the specs, but something about 90% power on 3/16" iirc.
 

KM223

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This is the Hougen I picked up. I've used it on thin wall .065 2x2 box and it holds well without any issues. The cutting fluid tank was a must have for me when cutting thick stuff and the swivel base as proven invaluable.



 

Monte

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3mm
http://www.alfra.de/fileadmin/redakteure/Flyer/ALFRA_RB_SP_LINE_EN.pdf

18_801_01000_1.jpg
 

VWTim

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We use a lot of Hougens at work. Either the 904's or the smaller 115's, it really depends what you're doing. In construction, we just use a bottle of cutting oil and squirt it onto the broach bit as we go. If I was in a production location, an auto oiler would be nice.

We did use a low profile version of Magswitches drill on a shutdown this fall. Very light weight, strong magnets, but the broach centering pins size/depths didn't always 100% line up with our Hougen broaches. But with other consumables, it would have been a rockstar. It did have oiling capabilities too.
 

DerekV

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This is the Hougen I picked up. I've used it on thin wall .065 2x2 box and it holds well without any issues. The cutting fluid tank was a must have for me when cutting thick stuff and the swivel base as proven invaluable.




Wow - what a beautiful machine. Is that a Dynasty 210 or 280 back there?

Nice stuff :thumbup::thumbup:
 

skipnay

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No cheap deals on mag drills to be found if they are quality machines. You won't find any bargains on these unless they are stolen or broken, at least that's been my experience.

Hard to see sarcasm on line!!!
 
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FMC1959

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For a decent quality (according to most reviews), includes Weldon and regular chuck also, and fluid tank, with case, at a decent price, this is the way to go
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N3HSVXK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Fairly new but was sold in Europe for years before coming to NA. Might not be construction grade but should be decent for most users

I don't speak from experience of owning one but for a while I researched magdrills heavily and then finally did not buy one. Hougen are probably the best known and excellant, but Milwaukee, Alfra, Fein and others are also top quality.

The opposite end of the spectrum are some cheap made in "wherever" el cheapos on eBay for $600-$400 units. The odd person says they work well, but I would not trust them.

If I were to pull the trigger right now on a somewhat limited budget, I would go with the Dewalt.
 
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ToddW

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This is the Hougen I picked up. I've used it on thin wall .065 2x2 box and it holds well without any issues. The cutting fluid tank was a must have for me when cutting thick stuff and the swivel base as proven invaluable.




That's the EXACT model I'm looking at.

And after fighting an awkward position in some + 1/4" angle for drilling 4 holes that took way way too long (1hr+) half in the dark I'm really ready to drop the $On a mag drill now... just got a transmission though so I'll be waiting until the 'too'l fund replenishes !@

- Swivel Base
- Bottle of Fluid
- Jacobs Chuck Adapter

And sizes up to 1.5" cheap, eh? LOL
 
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ToddW

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Here's a question... what if you need to make a hole larger. Can you use a mag drill or will it walk and chatter and destroy the cutter without the pilot?
 

dr_clyde

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I have a Hougen HMD 904 and a very large, old Milwaukee that I can't remember the model on.

The Hougen works well, although I haven't really put it through its paces. I think the thinnest material I have stuck it to is 1/4" or so. Worked fine. I may have done some 3/16" wall steel tube, I can't really remember. I wouldn't try the Milwaukee on anything smaller than 1/2" thick.

To answer Toddw's question. It depends on the kind of cutter. If you are using an annular cutter, they don't care what the middle looks like. The pilot is only there to locate on the punch mark and to eject the slug. You can take a partial cut on the edge of something, or a bigger one right over a small hole. You can't do this with a hole saw, as it needs the rest of the saw to stabilize itself. You need to be more careful on your feed, as it wants a full engagement for full feed pressure. I use these cutters in the bridgeport all the time for taking partial cuts. An annular cutter is more like a milling cutter than a hole saw.
 

johninct

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Here's a question... what if you need to make a hole larger. Can you use a mag drill or will it walk and chatter and destroy the cutter without the pilot?


When you try to make a hole bigger by drilling (say without reaming) there is always the chance that you will end up with a nice hole but it may not be in the exact, exact center place you want it or not perfectly round. Most times it doesn't matter but if a few thousandths matters...
 
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ToddW

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I have a Hougen HMD 904 and a very large, old Milwaukee that I can't remember the model on.

The Hougen works well, although I haven't really put it through its paces. I think the thinnest material I have stuck it to is 1/4" or so. Worked fine. I may have done some 3/16" wall steel tube, I can't really remember. I wouldn't try the Milwaukee on anything smaller than 1/2" thick.

To answer Toddw's question. It depends on the kind of cutter. If you are using an annular cutter, they don't care what the middle looks like. The pilot is only there to locate on the punch mark and to eject the slug. You can take a partial cut on the edge of something, or a bigger one right over a small hole. You can't do this with a hole saw, as it needs the rest of the saw to stabilize itself. You need to be more careful on your feed, as it wants a full engagement for full feed pressure. I use these cutters in the bridgeport all the time for taking partial cuts. An annular cutter is more like a milling cutter than a hole saw.

Thanks for the info.

I have the 904SKT (904 + Swivel + Kit) + a handful of other sized annular cutters in my cart.

Just waiting to pull the trigger now :bounce:
 
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ToddW

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Well, I pulled the trigger on the Hougen 904 Swivel Kit.
- Coolant Bottle
- Chuck Adapter
- Chuck itself
- Mag Drill Handle
- Pilot for 5/8 - 2 3/8"
- Pilot for 7/16 - 9/16"
- 1G Hougen Cutting Oil RotaMagic
- 12002 Kit which includes the following (additional I purchased listed as well)
-- All are 2" depth capacity / 1200 Series
-- 7/16
-- 1/2"
-- 5/8"
-- 9/16"
-- 11/16"
-- 3/4"
-- 13/16"
-- 7/8"
-- 15/16"
-- 1"
-- 1-1/16"


Any common sizes I may have missed?
Any other spare parts?
I also have one of the sheet metal annular cutters to use in a 1/2" drill. I ordered a handful more of those, and need to cross-reference them with my dimple die set to make sure I have all the sizes I have. I was already down to missing some 'hole saws' so figured for a few bucks (in some cases) may as well replace. I also got their 'kit' for standard size holes for use in steel up to 1/4" steel.

Between the mag drill + chuck adapter + sheet metal cutters I think I'm ready to make some holes and complete a bunch of projects without HATING using a hand drill in plate steel, or my craftsmen drill press that has a slight slight wobble.

I'm very much looking forward to these tools, and think they will be one of the best investments!
 
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ToddW

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Thanks guys.

Another question...

Can you do cuts like this with a mag drill / annular cutter?

592F8DCA-3CEC-45DA-BAA6-2287893C87E8_zpss8srpmky.jpg


(The inner triangle with the hole cut but some of the hole didn't have material so it's not a full circle cut.)
Or will it rip the teeth off?
 
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ToddW

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I was thinking more along the lines of instead of a hole-saw. I don't know how you'd cut that out with a regular spiral bit eeek!
 

stercorarius

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It should be able to handle it if it has a good grip on the steel.. The biggest problem is if you are using say a 5/8" annular cutter to shift a 5/8 hole over a 16th because parts don't quite line up. If the metal isn't thick enough or oily it almost always just pulls the drill around. I use a Fein slugger. Love the unit.

Sent from my S60 using Tapatalk
 

FMC1959

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I think technique will be important. Make it turn at the fastest speed, make sure the magnet is holding best possible spot with no debris that could cause the slightest movement, then go down super slow. Go to where the cutters teeth are just barely touching.

You need the speed to not have a tooth easily jerk the head, and you are looking to go down and touch so slow that the teeth will barely touch and create a ring. Then a touch more till there is enough of a groove the head won't move anymore.

Then you can slow down the motor speed and proceed as normal.
 
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ToddW

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Thanks for the ideas.

I'm planning to build a Mag Drill "Drill Press Stand" that is shared all over (and on YouTube).

It would be even more awesome if I can find a drill press to use parts from and have an adjustable table !! That would be the ultimate annular station cutter using the mag drill without having to change out stuff on the mill.
 
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