Main panel to disconnect to sub panel.

[green.bubbly]

So my sleepless nights trying to plan things in advance failed me.

I installed a 90 amp subpanel in my garage that was to be fed from a future 200 amp house main panel. I ran the service wire under ground and into the slab of the house that was yet to be built.

Fast forward a few months and I find myself with a little issue. Due to where the metal beams of the metal building house were positioned, I am unable to locate the main panel where I originally planned. It had to be moved over about five feet and around a corner.

So my service conductors from my garage are about three feet short and will not reach my main panel. I can remove some OSB in my garage and pull new wire. While this can be done, it will be one hell of a job.

My only other option that I can think of is to install a 90/100 amp disconnect near my main panel in the house and connect my garage service wires to the disconnect. I can then connect my main panel to the disconnect.

Any issues with doing this?

 

[Alchymist]

I'd just mount a junction box and add the necessary wire :

http://www.globalindustrial.com/g/electrical/boxes/Steel-Boxes/Sheet-Metal-Junction-Boxes-NEMA-Lift

 

[green.bubbly]

I had thought of that but it would be hard (for me at least) to wire nut/attach the wires together. This is 100 amp wire we are dealing with. That was why I thought of using a disconnect box so I could screw the wires to the junction screws.

Any code issues with a junction box or disconnect other than the junction box has to be accessible?

 

[Alchymist]

I use split bolts, rubber tape followed by vinyl tape. There are other splice kits available, search some of the electrical threads on GJ. A 4X4X6" box should be doable, if you feel you need more room, go to a 6X6 inch one. Should be a lot less expensive than a sub panel. If using a metal bx, be sure it's grounded. And yes, it has to remain accessible.

 

[harvero]

How do you ground the box?

 

[Alchymist]

How do you ground the box?

You are splicing a cable with a ground wire, no? Just pigtail a wire on the ground and bolt it to the box. (Bolt, star washer, & nut, no sheet metal screws). Especially important if running pvc conduit into a metal junction box.

 

[green.bubbly]

I use split bolts, rubber tape followed by vinyl tape. There are other splice kits available, search some of the electrical threads on GJ. A 4X4X6" box should be doable, if you feel you need more room, go to a 6X6 inch one. Should be a lot less expensive than a sub panel. If using a metal bx, be sure it's grounded. And yes, it has to remain accessible.

That would pass code? Just wrap it in electrical and vinyl tape? I felt more comfortable going with a a disconnect but can not find one rated for 90 or 100 amps. About all I can find non-fused is 60 amp.

I wanted something like this...

or a cheaper one like this...

 

[Alchymist]

That would pass code? Just wrap it in electrical and vinyl tape? I felt more comfortable going with a a disconnect but can not find one rated for 90 or 100 amps. About all I can find non-fused is 60 amp.

That's RUBBER tape followed by a good vinyl electrical tape over the split bolts. Some of the splice "kit" use a barrel with setscrews with a piece of heat shrink. If you go this route, make sure the heat shrink is the type with a hot melt adhesive in it.

 

[green.bubbly]

I use split bolts, rubber tape followed by vinyl tape. There are other splice kits available, search some of the electrical threads on GJ. A 4X4X6" box should be doable, if you feel you need more room, go to a 6X6 inch one. Should be a lot less expensive than a sub panel. If using a metal bx, be sure it's grounded. And yes, it has to remain accessible.

You referring to something like this and just wrap in electrical tape and stuff it inside a 4x4 or 6x6 junction box?

 

[Alchymist]

That's RUBBER tape followed by a good vinyl electrical tape over the split bolts. Some of the splice "kit" use a barrel with setscrews with a piece of heat shrink. If you go this route, make sure the heat shrink is the type with a hot melt adhesive in it.

You referring to something like this and just wrap in electrical tape and stuff it inside a 4x4 or 6x6 junction box?

Yes, that's a split bolt. You are talking about copper wire, are you not?

 

[Alchymist]

The other type I referred to:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AWP7OG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[green.bubbly]

That's RUBBER tape followed by a good vinyl electrical tape over the split bolts. Some of the splice "kit" use a barrel with setscrews with a piece of heat shrink. If you go this route, make sure the heat shrink is the type with a hot melt adhesive in it.

Gotcha, so rubber tape followed with something like 3M Super 88 tape.

I came across these doing a search of the site. Are you familiar with them? I am trying to figure out how to operate these things. I am assuming that if you pop off the cap, there will be some set screws inside. Kinda pricy but they look cool.

 

[Norcal]

Gotcha, so rubber tape followed with something like 3M Super 88 tape.

I came across these doing a search of the site. Are you familiar with them? I am trying to figure out how to operate these things. I am assuming that if you pop off the cap, there will be some set screws inside. Kinda pricy but they look cool.

Those are Polaris connectors, they make split bolts the modern equivalent of soldering & friction tape.

 

[tomshep]

Gotcha, so rubber tape followed with something like 3M Super 88 tape.

I came across these doing a search of the site. Are you familiar with them? I am trying to figure out how to operate these things. I am assuming that if you pop off the cap, there will be some set screws inside. Kinda pricy but they look cool.

That is what I used when I went from my attic line (romex) into my wet-rated wire. I used a 6x6x4 box on the side of the house as a junction and those clamps. Cost was maybe $6 at my local supply house and much easier than wrapping the bolts. Well worth the expense.

Tom

 

[enrare]

Are the above mentioned split bolt, **** splice kits or the polaris connectors make a better and safer connection than standard wire nut connections? I'm working with 10 gauge wire at a junction box for my compressor elec connection.
A little background to my situation, when my house was built only one 220 outlet was put in the garage. Unfortunatley the builder decided to cut costs on wiring the garage outlet and instead of running a dedicated line back to the main panel, they decided to tie into the dryer outlet in the laundry room. When I re-modeled the laundry room I did not like the idea of the dryer and garage 220v outlet on the same circuit. At the time I had no need for 220v in the garage so I removed the garage wire from the dryer outlet box and from the laundry room wall / ceiling and coiled up the wire so "just in case" I ever needed it. I planned on "one day" running a sub-panel to the garage and installing more 220 and 110 outlets when I could afford to turn my garage into a hobby woodworking shop. Fast forward to present, since I found GJ I decided to make the jump into air impact tools and my little twinstack compressor needed to be upgraded. I found a used 45 gal Kobalt compressor requiring 220v. Now I find myself needing to get power back to the garage outlet. I was going to put a junction box in the laundry room and run a length of wire to the main panel as a temproary solution until I can afford to run a subpanel to the garage.

 

[Delta74]

see if you have a used electrical shop around, or call some the shops that do alot of reno work for a disconnect, otherwise just go with a split bolt , rubber tape, Super 88, and call it done, we use split bolts all the time at work often for motor connections, and splices to cables where we are limited on room.

the Splice kits are nice as well really easy to use but often need a larger box as they dont bend too well, make your choice then buy the box, word of caution thou, not all of the 6x6 or larger have knock outs in them already, buy it from an electrical shop and ask them to make the holes for your connections if you dont have the tools.

see a commercial building being torn down? or big reno being done? stick your head in the door and ask for a 100 amp disconnect, have cash in your pocket you may get a back door special for 20 bucks.

 

[pattenp]

The splice type connectors are best for large gauge wire and are not cheap. A wire nut sized for #10 will do just fine for your compressor wiring. Just twist the wire ends together (clockwise) with a pair of pliers before screwing on the wire nut.

Are the above mentioned split bolt, **** splice kits or the polaris connectors make a better and safer connection than standard wire nut connections? I'm working with 10 gauge wire at a junction box for my compressor elec connection.
A little background to my situation, when my house was built only one 220 outlet was put in the garage. Unfortunatley the builder decided to cut costs on wiring the garage outlet and instead of running a dedicated line back to the main panel, they decided to tie into the dryer outlet in the laundry room. When I re-modeled the laundry room I did not like the idea of the dryer and garage 220v outlet on the same circuit. At the time I had no need for 220v in the garage so I removed the garage wire from the dryer outlet box and from the laundry room wall / ceiling and coiled up the wire so "just in case" I ever needed it. I planned on "one day" running a sub-panel to the garage and installing more 220 and 110 outlets when I could afford to turn my garage into a hobby woodworking shop. Fast forward to present, since I found GJ I decided to make the jump into air impact tools and my little twinstack compressor needed to be upgraded. I found a used 45 gal Kobalt compressor requiring 220v. Now I find myself needing to get power back to the garage outlet. I was going to put a junction box in the laundry room and run a length of wire to the main panel as a temproary solution until I can afford to run a subpanel to the garage.

 

[VHF]

I am trying to figure out how to operate these things. I am assuming that if you pop off the cap, there will be some set screws inside. Kinda pricy but they look cool.

I used these (Polarus InsulTap) connectors to splice the #6 wires from my generator. Cost me about $10 ea for 3 of them in the size I needed, a little pricy, but I am happy with the result. Yes, there are set screws under the rubber caps.

 

[Highbeam]

I just used the splice blocks from Home depot with heat shrink tubing, the kind with the glue. It was actually very easy and secure. The polaris style connectors were also available but very very expensive. It's not like I plan to undo this connection.

The split bolts and tape just seemed hokey. Everything I do that gets wrapped with tape ends up looking like a very unprofessional hack job. I wanted this splice to look good and the heat shrink does look good.

I used a large 8x8 metal box and a green grounding screw came with it. Drilled my own hole in the back for the 1.5" conduit. Smaller holes were prepunched in the sides.

 

[Alchymist]

I just used the splice blocks from Home depot with heat shrink tubing, the kind with the glue. It was actually very easy and secure. The polaris style connectors were also available but very very expensive. It's not like I plan to undo this connection.

The split bolts and tape just seemed hokey. Everything I do that gets wrapped with tape ends up looking like a very unprofessional hack job. I wanted this splice to look good and the heat shrink does look good.

I used a large 8x8 metal box and a green grounding screw came with it. Drilled my own hole in the back for the 1.5" conduit. Smaller holes were prepunched in the sides.

I can show you lots of industrial settings with taped split bolt conections. They have been around since electricity was discovered. (Designed right after the Western Union splice).

Incidentally, have you ever tried to un-do one of those connections that was made correctly? He11 of a time getting that vulcanized rubber tape off!

 

[Aceman]

Incidentally, have you ever tried to un-do one of those connections that was made correctly? He11 of a time getting that vulcanized rubber tape off!

That's also the reason they **** too!

Insulated taps are the modern day split bolt. By the time you factor in all parts and materials plus labor it takes to make a split bolt connection, it's not cost effective.

All I see are insulated taps being sold anymore. I've personally bought split bolts for an equipotential plane in a dairy barn, but that's it.

 

[Alchymist]

That's also the reason they **** too!

Insulated taps are the modern day split bolt. By the time you factor in all parts and materials plus labor it takes to make a split bolt connection, it's not cost effective.

All I see are insulated taps being sold anymore. I've personally bought split bolts for an equipotential plane in a dairy barn, but that's it.

Perhaps - let's see:
1) Time to strip 2 wires - same for both methods.
2) Time to insert leads - about the same
3) Time to tighten - pretty close to same.
4) Time to insulate - almost as fast to add 2 layers of tape as it is to plug in the heat gun and shrink tubing - you did remember to put the heat shrink on, didn't you?

split bolt - approx $5, splice kit, approx $7-8

Seems pretty much a wash to me - biggest deciding factor would be availability. Oh yeah, I can do a split bolt splice in a smaller box, every thing else being the same.

And, they are meant to be a semi- permanent splice. Ever try to get the adhesive hot melt shrink tubing off a splice?

 

[rabidsquirrel]

I can show you lots of industrial settings with taped split bolt conections. They have been around since electricity was discovered. (Designed right after the Western Union splice).

Incidentally, have you ever tried to un-do one of those connections that was made correctly? He11 of a time getting that vulcanized rubber tape off!

I'm sure you know it, but for the people that don't:

Take your vinyl tape and wrap it non sticky side down on the split bolt first, one layer. Than use your rubber tape and vinyl tape as usual. One slice with the knife and it's off.

 

[Aceman]

Perhaps - let's see:
1) Time to strip 2 wires - same for both methods.
2) Time to insert leads - about the same
3) Time to tighten - pretty close to same.
4) Time to insulate - almost as fast to add 2 layers of tape as it is to plug in the heat gun and shrink tubing - you did remember to put the heat shrink on, didn't you?

split bolt - approx $5, splice kit, approx $7-8

Seems pretty much a wash to me - biggest deciding factor would be availability. Oh yeah, I can do a split bolt splice in a smaller box, every thing else being the same.

And, they are meant to be a semi- permanent splice. Ever try to get the adhesive hot melt shrink tubing off a splice?

Are you comparing split bolts to insulated taps or mechanical buttsplices? I've never used heat shrink with an insulated tap(Polaris conn.) so I can only assume you're talking about mechanical buttsplices.

Just so we're clear, I use Polaris connectors(insulated taps), not mechanical buttsplices, not split bolts.

 

[Alchymist]

Are you comparing split bolts to insulated taps or mechanical buttsplices? I've never used heat shrink with an insulated tap(Polaris conn.) so I can only assume you're talking about mechanical buttsplices.

Just so we're clear, I use Polaris connectors(insulated taps), not mechanical buttsplices, not split bolts.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AWP7OG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Polaris = $$$

 

[hammlm]

I'm sure you know it, but for the people that don't:

Take your vinyl tape and wrap it non sticky side down on the split bolt first, one layer. Than use your rubber tape and vinyl tape as usual. One slice with the knife and it's off.

Rabid;

You beat me to it, I was going to post the same. Don't do it much any more, but whenever I need to tape split bolts, I do it just like you say, the same way I was taught 20+ years ago.

I got my *** chewed on a temporary service I built for NOT doing it that way when another Spark had to take the service down.

 

[Aceman]

Polaris = $$$

Time=$$$

Comparing mechanical buttsplices to split bolts/polaris connectors is apples and oranges.

I'm not going to use mech. buttsplices to splice a motor but I could use a split bolt/ins. tap.

Same with splicing a bunch of wires together in a j-box....

Bottom line, the comparison is between split bolts and polaris connectors. You can't beat the time savings with Polaris, even if the cost was the same to install with labor and material combined for both types, it still takes less labor to install a Polaris connector than a split bolt. That means I can be getting other things done rather than spending my time taping up a split bolt.

It also means a guy down the road(usually me) can take it back apart again very easily.

Polaris connectors also come with multiple ports, if necessary, not so with split bolts.

When I buy stuff to splice with, I buy A Polaris connector. But not with a split bolt, you're also buying varnished cambric, rubber tape, Super 88, etc. However you like to do it. I buy ONE thing and I'm done.