Major issue with sill plate rot.

[trance|ghost]

24x20 garage reno, sill plate fixed, progress

Hey guys, I've been a long time lurker and finally think its time to post, looking for advice...

I have a 25x18ft detached garage, roughly 35 years old and in surprisingly good shape, until today... I found some moisture coming through the floor so I decided to investigate... and as suspected, it lead to major issues.. I'm slightly devastated as I am planning to re do the whole garage. I already got new electrical mostly done, and ran a gas line as well.

this is what I uncovered

this is the only window facing the rear of the garage,as you can see this is where the water entry has been for many of years I beleive, the window sill on each corner is rotted.

which has caused this

I'm horrified and I'm super upset about the whole situation, I'm not the most handy person in the world, however I have a great father in law who can pretty much do everything, I haven't contacted him yet as I'm still not even sure how to begin to think this is fixable.

before anyone asks, the garage at the rear has a foundation about 4 1/2 ft above grade, and levels out with the driveway, I'm almost positive the leak is solely from the window, which looks improperly installed, IMO.

where should I begin with this, and what options do I have?

heres some pics of the whole garage as well

new electrical panel

 

[kd3pc]

It looks a lot worse than it is. If your FiL is the least bit willing this is a good saturday's worth of work. Get a new window and a dozen good 2x4s.

If you want, you can remove the T111 around the window, else you can cut the nails with a sawzall from the inside. Cut out the damaged stuff and replace it just like you see it there. On the slab cut the sill plate, leaving 3 or 4" from the next "good" stud, so that you can splice the new sill plate in, and still nail it to the existing one.

Remove and replace the window...pretty straightforward, use some tyvek or sealing paper of your choice around it to shed water AWAY and out from the wall.

best of luck.

 

[SteveCh]

First, let me point out that not being on the scene, my advice cannot be taken as absolute.

However, this looks repairable to me. Seriously. First thing to do is determine where the moisture is coming from, which won't surprise you. Then, fix the leak/problem.

Then, you will be able to cut out and replace the molded/rotted wood. It will take a little work, but it is quite doable.

At least, from what I am seeing.

Edit: kd3pc posted while I was typing. I think we agree.

 

[trance|ghost]

quick response, thanks.

this is the only damaged rotted wood I can find in the garage, from the outside the window does not look caulked at all around the metal siding.

I'm just not sure about the large bolts going into the concrete itself, about an inch to the right of the rot on the sill is a large fastener... and 3-4 feet to the left is another.

do you cut these right off with a sawzal? and where exactly would I jack the wall up to replace the sill since the window is right there?

 

[readhead]

Pretty simple fix. kd3pc pretty much laid it out. A sawzall will help this along. Reframe and install a new window. Be diligent about sealing the window. For someone capable this is a one day job.

 

[readhead]

No need to jack anything up. For what you are doing the wall won't move. You can notch the plate for the bolt or cut it off and install a wedge anchor 3" over.
By the way, that is a replacement window installed in the original frame and not to well judging by this result.

 

[trance|ghost]

which would be the easier task? I personally hate drilling concrete, did this while installing all new conduit through the house, so notch the 2x4 with a v shaped cut out? and slide it around the existing bolt? will this not be as strong?

by the way, I have really bad anxiety and all these responses have made me feel that much more relieved, thanks so much for the informative responses

 

[SteveCh]

quick response, thanks.

this is the only damaged rotted wood I can find in the garage, from the outside the window does not look caulked at all around the metal siding.

I'm just not sure about the large bolts going into the concrete itself, about an inch to the right of the rot on the sill is a large fastener... and 3-4 feet to the left is another.

do you cut these right off with a sawzal? and where exactly would I jack the wall up to replace the sill since the window is right there?

Probably the easiest thing to do is cut off the old anchor bolts and drill for new ones. Hammer drill is good here. You can probably rent one if you don't have access to one. I bought one last yr. [Bosch] and find tons of uses for it. Maybe Home Depot rentals???

Don't need to jack anything. Slip a new board in place, tap it with a hammer if needed. If any studs need replacing, easy as heck, just tear out old one(s) and toenail in new one(s). Yes, might have to deal with re-securing siding. Maybe. Again, I can't tell without being there. But really, this isn't a big task. It might look as if it will be, but unless there is more than showing in the photos, this will be an easy fix and you'll learn something in the process.

Just make absolute sure the leak or moisture source is dealt with or any repairs will be temporary.

Don't blame you at all for being a bit freaked. It looks awful. But as others have said, looks worse than it is and this is all gonna be just fine without much brain damage at all. Wish all my repairs were this simple.....

 

[trance|ghost]

btw I'm not sure if the garage is using t111 on the outside

its definitely not plywood, its for sure metal.

I am going to load up on supplies this weekend and begin the work.

does anyone know if the window can be pulled from the inside? the window itself is in good shape, so I may reuse it, I will just have to seal it properly and probably caulk the outside of the frame as well

I also find it really strange that instead of using plywood for sheathing like most garages its not plywood.. and almost feels as if its mdf wood, which is quite strange.

 

[Zeke]

First, treat and kill the mold! Lots of home brew recipes on the Net. Bleach is NOT the first choice.

Stab at the wood with a screw driver. It it's hard, it's good enough to leave alone. If it's completely soft, remove and replace or sister next to it knowing that the mold has been treated.

That left side is over built. I suspect the rough opening was initially framed too large and filled in. You don't need but half that amount ot studs there.

And don't be horrified and super upset. This is regular stuff for many and easy to fix.

Now kill the mold, like yesterday.

 

[readhead]

Not a v notch. Cut a square slot to fit tight around the bolt. Judging by the rust I think that as soon as you try to remove the nut the bolt will twist off.

 

[trance|ghost]

one more question, is there a single reason someone would sheath a garage with something that feels and looks like mdf wood? and not plywood? its very strange to me.

 

[AnEv942]

Just agreeing-it is ugly-but really minor. Several ways could be replaced/fixed-but Id go ahead & pull that bead board. At minimum if its wet needs to dry. There are a few products-not plywood but made to look like T11. Its cheap would be the only reason I can think of for using...
Some odd blocking going on under the window. Makes me think it was added, macthing exist. siding seams?
Though I would not reef on the nut-Id try to work loose-pic may be deceiving but Im not seeing much exposed threads above nut?
If not, notching would work.

 

[Zeke]

OSB interior walls is not uncommon. It's cheap and gets the job done especially if it's going to painted or covered with cabinets or a wall organizer system. Probably a little better than drywall for strength and utility and doesn't need to be taped. I don't like it, but that's personal.

 

[Horror Business]

Make sure you use pressure treated wood for your new sill. As others have said, this is not a huge project, you can relax a bit.

 

[trance|ghost]

the outside wall behind on the 2x4s and behind the metal siding I've been just told is fiberboard...

and as far as damage goes, I can sort of see some dampness there as well, near the bottom...

I really rather not have to remove any of the outside siding. (I just did a major reno on the house, had to remove vermiculite and re-insulate everything - $$$) so I wanted to keep costs down, but proper on this garage, I've already made a budget for all new wiring/lighting and insulation/heating... so this kind of puts me over budget.. guess I'm not getting that racetrack flooring I wanted.

I'm an automotive tinter by trade and plan to turn this garage into a tint shop

ps = the window on the outside looks like it was there for a while, unless the siding was changed at some point in the garages lifetime.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

You can cut the sill plate and new piece at an angle so you can screw or nail them together. I'd drill the concrete for two anchors one on each side of the repair (in the existing plate). I would avoid trying to remove the studs as the sheeting is probably fastened to them. If the bottom end is rotted or soft sister a new stud along the bottom 2-3 feet.

 

[kenfath]

Memorial Day in the US is May 26th and Father's Day is June 15th. Make sure your FIL is invited to your home for one, or both, of these days. While he is there observing the occasion, enjoying good food and friendship ask his opinion on fixing the garage.

It doesn't look that difficult and everyone's viewpoint is correct. I'd replace the window because, in my way of thinking, it is the cost/time effective thing to do. You could make replacement parts, but that takes time, and when you're done you have an old window.

I appreciate not wanting to replace the siding. But if that is what is needed over trying to delicately take the wall apart, just replace it. I remember looking at that style siding about 35-40 years ago. It was sort of a poor man's T1-11 plywood. What I recall it always had ends broken and was in the mark-down piles. It was cheaper than plywood and to its credit seems to have held up well.

Good luck! Add your location to your header.

 

[trance|ghost]

yeah its actually in very good shape, I think its alluminum but I am not 100% sure.

I will start work this weekend, as it is our long weekend in Canada.

I'm actually finishing up the trench and laying the gas line on Sat, was going to finish the lighting as well, but this will set me back some.

 

[ford33]

This is not bad and certainly fixable. I've seen worse and fixed worse. Follow the advice from the others above. End of issue.

 

[Mandres]

you know the right terminology, which a lot of times is the hardest place to start.

I bet if you search youtube for "Replace sill plate rot" you'll find a ton of good step-by-step instructional videos.

 

[trance|ghost]

Update, window and sill has been replaced, along with new flashing.

new gas line has been run to the garage as well.

next up, drywall-lighting-insulate ceiling-garage door... and flooring (going with porcelain tiles)

new window and sill and framing

new gas line being installed

https://scontent-a-ord.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t1.0-9/10306249_10152217120092648_7237135788235248051_n.jpg

tear down and rip out all the styrofoam, begin wiring

insulation half way there

insulated, and new electrical outlets run around the garage

https://scontent-a-ord.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/t31.0-8/10372869_10152289506922648_1630646132756471786_o.jpg

also built a new fence attached to garage

wiener dogs approve

 

[trance|ghost]

for those wondering, the first day I moved in the garage looked like this

 

[Farres]

See there, no trouble at all.

 

[little d]

Outstanding job you did there. Thanks for the update, it's good to see someone tackle a job and get it done.

 

[kd3pc]

way to go, you should be proud of all that work.

Enjoy!

 

[BillK]

Trance,
Nice job. Just curious .... what is the siding on the garage ?

 

[Stevie-Ray]

Nice job on the window. And it looks like you installed the same electrical panel I did.

 

[N-10Z]

Constructive encouragement from the board. Well done.

 

[trance|ghost]

thanks guys! bill I'm not sure what the siding is, I can tell you that it is aluminum however.

question guys... convince me for my walls.... drywall? or chipboard? I hate the mud work with drywall but love the outcome look... I also love the practicality of chipboard.

tough decision