Yes but … please post the actual COE and convert that to real life numbers.
It doesn't matter what the numbers are, the fact is it happens. Tile tenting isn't some mystical unicorn that is just theory talked about in books. Just do a search for tile tenting and there are thousands of examples and it is all due to the lack of movement joints in tile.
Poor install can certainly contribute to the issue and a better install is probably going to hold out longer but the fact is if you don't account for movement it's gonna bite you. Concrete shrinks, tile doesn't. If the concrete is shrinking that puts the tile in compression. Tile doesn't compress much and it doesn't take a whole lot before something gives. I have never seen tenting happen on wood subfloors, only directly applied to concrete. There is probably a number of reasons for that but all the tenting I have seen was over concrete. When I was doing flooring professionally I stopped installing directly to concrete due to a number of issues/concerns.
I still haven't seen any pictures of the OP's house, or the areas of concern. Larger areas are much more susceptible to issues and needing movement joints. The number of windows and direct sunlight also changes the need. They are called out and explained in the TCNA handbook as well as ANSI standards. Now, is the whole issue because it is tight to the baseboards, probably not. There is probably a whole list of issues going on.
I also subscribe to the whole do it yourself if you want it done right mentality. It seems like most of the time when I let someone else do something it ends up in disappointment but unfortunately I don't always have the knowledge, skill, equipment, time to do it all.
If I were hiring a tile contractor I would want to know what his process would be. For me, over concrete I would use Ditra or Stratamat. Those are just the ones I settled on because I believe in the manufacturers, they are easy to get, and I like using them. Ditra is under ALL my tile in my own house. I also don't know the size of area we are talking but very likely 1 or more soft joints are needed. Everyone hates soft joints, me included and I have on occasion taken some chances and lucked out so far. It is harder to do soft joints in the plank flooring like the OP has but you can do it and they don't have to be a straight line. You can do some careful planning. I also do always burn the thinset into the back of the tile and the substrate. You also have to use the right trowels to get proper coverage. Lots of guys can do a great job on the install if they get some instruction on how to do it right. The problem is a lot don't know what they don't know and are just doing it how they always have done it. I would rather find a guy who didn't do it right but did "good" work and was willing to listen and take direction and wasn't hard headed and unwilling to do what was asked of him.
Case Closed!