Make an arbor press a ratcheting arbor press

[kenc184]

This gentleman removed the bottom two teeth off his arbor press and turned it into a pseudo ratcheting press. Pretty slick idea, anyone see any reason why I shouldn't do this on my new-to-me Dake 3ton? I know it doesn't make it a ratcheting press, but it's a move in the right direction.

Go to 2:22 of the video.

 

[Lwel9226]

I did that to my one ton Horrorfrite arbor press...... works pretty good....

LynnW

 

[kenc184]

I was thinking of a "better" approach. Extend the shaft (it has to be extended by almost 3" on the Dake for the ram to clear the splines on the shaft) with some round rod of the same diameter bored to 3/8", then a long 3/8" bolt with a larger diameter collar or washer. That way, with the shaft pulled out, it's still supported on the left side of the casting.

Drill a hole through the shaft extension at a position where it can lock the shaft in the normal use position with a cotter pin?

That way you wouldn't have to wind the ram all the way up to change the position of the handle (3-1/2 turns on the Dake), you would just pull the cotter pin, then pull the handle/shaft assembly out the RHS ) rotate the handle and push it back in. Voila.
Maybe even a compression spring rather than hole and cotter pin?

I may give it a shot, it'd be way easier on a crappy Harbor Freight arbor press where the splines are pretty short.

 

[rsanter]

I have debated doing this modification.

Downside is that you limit yourself with pressing taller items. May not be a big deal to you

I welded a big nut to the end of the shaft so I can use a socket and breaker bar or ratchet.
I still have the option to put the original shaft back in

 

[JradM]

I saw an example on Youtube where someone did this by grinding a flat spot below the teeth - that way it didn't affect the stroke. That person used a mill though - not sure how much work it would be without.

 

[kenc184]

Looks a bit goofy, but my idea seems to work fine. I haven't modified the press by grinding teeth and more importantly, I don't have to move the handle all the way to the top to adjust. Haven't seen this idea before, but no doubt it's been done. Added shaft is just long enough for the splines to clear, and offers support in the casting when the handle is pulled out for relocation. Nice thing is you can leave the ram sitting on the work while you relocate.

 

[RJS]

I got this idea from someone in the "show your arbor press" thread on this site. Ridgid pipe threading head. I added the hand wheel afterward to make positioning the ram easier. It has worked really well for me.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZVo3fupygPNAp5Ci7

 

[ckucia]

I got this idea from someone in the "show your arbor press" thread on this site. Ridgid pipe threading head. I added the hand wheel afterward to make positioning the ram easier. It has worked really well for me.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZVo3fupygPNAp5Ci7

That's genious. Really nice work.

 

[Ign]

I thought it'd be cool to build an uber-duty version of the quick quill handles for vertical mills -- essentially a pin that indexes in a round plate with a spring to hold it together after you've selected your position.

But that's just me being a keyboard machinist -- I'll never take the time to pursue such an endeavor