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Making a rain barrel stand.

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ambenz

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Most people would just buy a water barrel and prop it up on a cinderblock, but no, not this guy.
So as I am waiting for Menards to bring back there 11% rebate so I can buy 2 water barrels, I decided to get started on a tall stand for the water barrels to sit on, allowing me easy access to the spigots.
It is a work in progress as I won't be finished for a while.
You're just gonna to have to follow along.
Now, I do not live out in the country, I live in a "Mayberry" type residential community.
So the rain barrels and stand have to look.... "NICE".
Refined..... Like it is a designed piece of outdoor furniture.
The dolling up faze of the project might break the bank...UG!
I want to add lattice, door fronts with hinges, a top...the bottom is to store my hose reel as it stands next to the house back wall.
It needs varment screens to keep out critters too.

The design concept...
https://scontent-ort2-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/36759626_2333583790001486_9000959706641989632_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=3fdcd25d4d0a3660f80c898a2dedb5c9&oe=5BD68498

Not being a welder or working with metal, this project is a low budget wood project.
A lot of thought has to go into a project like this..so far we are about $12 USD into it...trying to keep cost under $30.
Now since a US liquid gallon of water weighs about 8.34 pounds or 3.78 kilograms at 62 °F (17 °C), 2 50 gallon barrels on a stand would bring to bear close to 834 pounds or 378.296 Kilograms....that's a lot of weight.
Close to a 1/2 ton! Bought outdoor pressure treated 2X2's and engineering in a bunch of support while trying not to make it bulky...progress so far...

Lap joint the top frame and engineered the first leg for the rain barrel table...
https://scontent-ort2-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/36770208_2333505733342625_8897555426938191872_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=7d30f92eb6cff85a51753c2253132063&oe=5B9E1E8C

I got all 4 legs on the rain barrel table. the table saw I am trying to sell for $150 is coming in handy. I am gonna miss it for projects like this.
https://scontent-ort2-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/36733927_2333505756675956_5157260831976587264_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=6abfdedad32babb4737c759d7d89b1f1&oe=5BA93286

Opposite view of the saw that is For Sale, if you're interested.....got all 4 legs on the rain barrel table. the table saw I am trying to sell for $150 is coming in handy. I am gonna miss it for projects like this.
Love working out on the driveway, nice breeze, low humidity, and full sun! Man, can I see what I am doing!!!
https://scontent-ort2-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/36802662_2333505736675958_2982277479042908160_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=1ca4f92a41e54ec38124970d26ac2cfe&oe=5BD7FEAD

Bottom supports for the legs are going on. Starting to look like a cabinet now.
https://scontent-ort2-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/36744856_2333505830009282_7385125858073116672_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=da3c199096c21fcacd9b7d45e8643e96&oe=5BE00409

Braced structure is screwed and outdoor wood glued as it may need to hold almost a half ton!
https://scontent-ort2-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/36757396_2333505866675945_3995197055688507392_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=19c67af0c57c49b35e5d5ab8cec692ba&oe=5BE38AA1

Menards had cement fibreboard siding on sale at $8 for 12 feet. I cut it in 3 sections and will be using that for the tabletop, cauking the space between the joints...not a bad price for a water and UV resistant tabletop!
The top puts the cost of the table at $20 so far...the side lattice is gonna be expensive...it may break the bank on this build.
 
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BillK

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How large are the rain barrels you are planning to buy ? The stand looks nice but i would have used substantially larger lumber myself and probably some steel angle braces. A 40 gallon barrel is going to weigh over 300 lbs full. 2 of them 600 lbs ?
 

Kaizen

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How large are the rain barrels you are planning to buy ? The stand looks nice but i would have used substantially larger lumber myself and probably some steel angle braces. A 40 gallon barrel is going to weigh over 300 lbs full. 2 of them 600 lbs ?



Yup this design is dangerous imo. I would have went to 4x4 for legs and 2x6 for bracing. Also would go full corner the corner with halflap at the middle. Also would cut size down or attach it to the house. You are underestimating the weight.


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ambenz

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....i would have used substantially larger lumber myself and probably some steel angle braces. A 40 gallon barrel is going to weigh over 300 lbs full. 2 of them 600 lbs ?

.....Also would cut size down or attach it to the house. You are underestimating the weight.

I do know the weight of water...it is obvious you both didn't read the beginning.

Now since a US liquid gallon of water weighs about 8.34 pounds or 3.78 kilograms at 62 °F (17 °C), 2 50 gallon barrels on a stand would bring to bear close to 834 pounds or 378.296 Kilograms....that's a lot of weight.
Close to a 1/2 ton!


I thought it also not beefy enough so I designed it with 6 legs and bracing to distribute the weight to the brick foundation. I cannot simulate the weight but I am confident the table will hold 2, 65 gallon barrels.
I am planning on 2, 50 gallons barrels and yes, I will be strapping then to the brick face for stability also.
If I notice any issues, I may "beef" it up.
But I do have to be budget conscience as the barrels are to pay back the money spent on the stand.
The design is a compromise I think will do the job.
A review of tensile strength of engineered lumber may change you thoughts on the matter, see... https://www.engineersedge.com/lumber.htm
 
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Kaizen

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I do know the weight of water...it is obvious you both didn't read the beginning.

Now since a US liquid gallon of water weighs about 8.34 pounds or 3.78 kilograms at 62 °F (17 °C), 2 50 gallon barrels on a stand would bring to bear close to 834 pounds or 378.296 Kilograms....that's a lot of weight.
Close to a 1/2 ton!


I thought it also not beefy enough so I designed it with 6 legs and bracing to distribute the weight to the brick foundation. I cannot simulate the weight but I am confident the table will hold 2, 65 gallon barrels.
I am planning on 2, 50 gallons barrels and yes, I will be strapping then to the brick face for stability also.
If I notice any issues, I may "beef" it up.
But I do have to be budget conscience as the barrels are to pay back the money spent on the stand.
The design is a compromise I think will do the job.
A review of tensile strength of engineered lumber may change you thoughts on the matter, see... https://www.engineersedge.com/lumber.htm



Yup I read your post and facts. Imo not worth saving ten bucks going with small stuff. That pretty chart assumes there is no defects in the wood..,,you know like branches. Just sayin for longevity and safety I’d go bigger.


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The Cobbler

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I'd be leery of the weight on that structure too. especially the way you let in the cross braces on the top rungs .
Given enough time, and weathering, I can see that crashing down .
 

Super Mech

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2 x 4s as minimum for that project. Even better would be 4x4s at the corners and 2bys as crossbracing. That's a lot of weight to put on top of toothpicks.
 

WQ59B

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I agree with the 4 posts above mine. 2x2 is 1.5" actual. By notching the top cross braces in, you have a mere 3/4-in structure with no uprights below those joints. You also have the perimeter wood next to the supporting uprights, rather than on top of it, with what appears to be a single screw per joint.

I'd be using 2x4s to hold 400 lbs, nevermind 834 lbs.
 

JJ13

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I'll chime in as well...sometimes I just have to shake my head and bite my tongue :wtf:

When safety is at risk, I cannot sit back idly. Nice try and I'm certain that took a nice chunk of time but I wouldn't want to stand anywhere near that contraption once it's loaded up with water. Please consider rebuilding it with 2x4 material and taking some of the advice given, especially if there are any children/pets that might be around it. It might seem to be strong enough now but with a little weathering and under load, those puny legs will bend/warp and fail, only time will tell. If you are waiting for the barrels to go on sale, why risk dumping them and breaking them only to have to purchase them again and start over?:lol_hitti
 

sqznby

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I agree with the 4 posts above mine. 2x2 is 1.5" actual. By notching the top cross braces in, you have a mere 3/4-in structure with no uprights below those joints. You also have the perimeter wood next to the supporting uprights, rather than on top of it, with what appears to be a single screw per joint.

I'd be using 2x4s to hold 400 lbs, nevermind 834 lbs.

This is exactly what I was thinking.

The design itself is not ideal for such a load. For a raised flower bed yes.
 

Git

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I agree - there is no way that is going to hold 800 lbs...

I would start over and base your design on something like this EAA work table and add center supports also. It uses what I would call interlocking 2 x 4's to carry the loads

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tarbellb

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Any side load will make this thing go crack, pop, tidal wave.

You could brace it enough to support your load, but as it sits I would leary.

Maybe test (wiggle) with a couple of 5 gallon buckets filled up, I bet you will reconsider.
 

ducksface

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100 gallons of water(if dead full, and conversely, no overflow because of too heavy of a rain)
Close to 12 cubic feet.
That's one inch of water spread over a 144sqft area.
It's an inch of rain added to a 10x14 foot area, less than four sheets of Plywood.

That's less than 3 percent of what naturally falls on that 10x14 area.
Do it 30 times, and you've not even doubled the rainfall on a very small patch of flowers.
30 times the original 100 gallons is 3000 gallons.(if it rains 30 times and you're deathbed diligent and you have a use for water outside of your considerable short growing season. Miss a week the right time of year and you're a mesquito rancher. Freeze a full tank, and you'll be starting all over waiting for that 11 percent discount.)

3000 gallons at 2 cents a gallon, saves 60 bucks a year... Divided in to the 300 cost you say...

I come up with a 5 year break-even and a 10 year span to save 30 bucks a year.

I am terrible at math, and may be off by a factor of ten.


My NEPHEW is so enamored with my rain collection system he WAS planning one. His water bill is a flat six bucks for the first 10,000 gallons. Had to do the math about six times before he got it....


Please consider considering a reconsideration of this entire project.

I start projects from a point of failure and work backwards. I can't get this idea (or I'd be doing it myself) even onto the cocktail knapkin phase.

No one has agreed with your cabinet base. My advice is only worthwhile if you take everyone else's advice.
 
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ambenz

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Going forward with the build...I hear you all but am moving forward.
I am planning to do a structure test once everything is in place and everything is locked into the brick structure of the house.
This stand is not freestanding nor is it not supported.
it is also somewhat under the eves of the house so it is somewhat weather protected.
Not to mention this is AC2 treated wood.
So I do appreciate your concerns and will be taking steps if the final setup warrants it.
I really do understand your concerns.

Added landscape fabric to the areas getting lattice. It blocks the view inside and keeps out critters.
https://scontent-ort2-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/36869914_2335772606449271_2167731094495952896_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=6626b58f01d98ecca68b2f7f48a8ec0b&oe=5BE5E324

Adding the doors I made, screwing in the hinges....
https://scontent-ort2-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/36910838_2335772659782599_5411706312478162944_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=94a9f66147be008058e8dbb7731da410&oe=5BEBE3B7

Doors are just frames to hold the lattice....
https://scontent-ort2-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/36826306_2335783939781471_3380826276330733568_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=7968add6f727a6814fbbd57efd53a4fa&oe=5BE85D14

Doors and fabric installed
https://scontent-ort2-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/36823227_2335772706449261_8612040638348656640_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=ff6890021878f647e596c1e012eafcd0&oe=5B9DB544

Full swing on the door. The garden hose reel is gonna call the cabinet home.
https://scontent-ort2-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/36803952_2335772833115915_4201582895824896000_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=47d8d38fe12bcfb2fc9d00da9a8d6fb4&oe=5B9FF2C3

Starting to cut the lattice to size...
https://scontent-ort2-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/36918955_2335772883115910_3040695850381606912_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=97685fe4be29e3cc7414d73967537aba&oe=5BD7E5D4

BTW, Menards started their 11% rebate today and I went out and got my barrels 50 gallon each at max.

More to come tomorrow....

....
My NEPHEW is so enamored with my rain collection system he WAS planning one. His water bill is a flat six bucks for the first 10,000 gallons. Had to do the math about six times before he got it....

Chicago is charging us suburbanites a lot of money to pump lake michigan into my municipality so it has finally become feasible to use rain water to water the lawn and the flowers.
 
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BD1

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I agree with all above , I always over build. Those books with ratings are only that, book with ratings. I've been in construction 45 years, welder fabricator . We always get this kids from college with their degrees telling us what they want. Experience has a great impact on what's needed or what to add. We try to diplomaticly explain this to them but don't listen. Then after failure we change it.
Many charts and ratings are non shock loads. Backing into something will no longer be non shock. Good luck.
 

paranoid56

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100 gallons of water(if dead full, and conversely, no overflow because of too heavy of a rain)
Close to 12 cubic feet.
That's one inch of water spread over a 144sqft area.
It's an inch of rain added to a 10x14 foot area, less than four sheets of Plywood.

That's less than 3 percent of what naturally falls on that 10x14 area.
Do it 30 times, and you've not even doubled the rainfall on a very small patch of flowers.
30 times the original 100 gallons is 3000 gallons.(if it rains 30 times and you're deathbed diligent and you have a use for water outside of your considerable short growing season. Miss a week the right time of year and you're a mesquito rancher. Freeze a full tank, and you'll be starting all over waiting for that 11 percent discount.)

3000 gallons at 2 cents a gallon, saves 60 bucks a year... Divided in to the 300 cost you say...

I come up with a 5 year break-even and a 10 year span to save 30 bucks a year.

I am terrible at math, and may be off by a factor of ten.


My NEPHEW is so enamored with my rain collection system he WAS planning one. His water bill is a flat six bucks for the first 10,000 gallons. Had to do the math about six times before he got it....


Please consider considering a reconsideration of this entire project.

I start projects from a point of failure and work backwards. I can't get this idea (or I'd be doing it myself) even onto the cocktail knapkin phase.

No one has agreed with your cabinet base. My advice is only worthwhile if you take everyone else's advice.

you know not everything needs to be a great break even point. people can do things just to feel like they are helping out. lol. I have 4 of these and the wife uses them to water the plants and such. Sure water is cheap, but water is also good to keep stored around. Never had a mosquito issue due to them being sealed.

as for the stand, its pure **** lol. But kinda what i expect from a mustang owner lol :lol_hitti
 

sweet victory

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You stated you're "going to engineer support" into the frame, and you even posted material properties for the wood you're using. It's obvious you aren't an engineer, so please don't imply that any engineering consideration went into this build. That link you used to try to convince others (or yourself) does not list a yield or tensile strength; it seems you don't know what you're looking at.

In any mechanics of materials course, you would learn that a beam/column can fail at stresses far below their yield strength due to buckling. The correct thing to do would've been to calculate the critical load supported by your beam by using the modulus of elasticity and Euler's column formula. We haven't started to asses how creep deformation will make this structure weaker over time.


Also, your beams bearing the most weight have no braces where they're most likely to buckle. Set the thing on fire before you crush yourself or someone else.
 
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EOC_Jason

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If you used solid paneling on the sides / back that would help give it structural support vs the lattice...

Please be sure someone is taking a video as you fill up the barrels for a test...

Personally I don't think it will fail right away, but there definitely isn't any over-engineering and as that wood drys and weathers you could have a failure unexpectedly down the road...
 

aka Larry

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You might be the only person on this forum who would build this contraption using 2x2s. I doubt any of us would build a shop work bench with anything less than 2x4s, and a work bench will likely never see a load of anywhere near 1,000 lbs.
 
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tslater1989

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Do yourself a favor, put a bar top on it, cover the sides with bamboo, use it as a tiki bar. it is UNSAFE. Even if it can handle the load initially, you have to figure that extended periods of time with that much mass bearing down on it. Failure is imminent. We are not trying to be rude or disrespectful, we are genuinely concerned for your safety, and the safety of others. Please heed our warnings!
 
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crucible

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You might be the only person on this forum who would build this contraption using 2x2s. I doubt any of us would build a shop work bench with anything less than 2x4s, and a work bench will likely never see a load of anywhere near 1,000 lbs.

Agreed; I glanced at the design at first and assumed it was metal of some kind based on how skinny the beams were, then realized it was only wood 2x2's after about the fifth advisory against it I read.

Truthfully, I'd think hard about making that using 4x4's (even well overbuilt) and likely would start using 6x6's for the vertical posts if there would be any chance for injury or property damage.

I wish the OP well, but please don't load 1k onto that-you won't know there is issues until it collapses suddenly and catastrophically.
 

pdubss

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In addition to garage stuff, my other hobby is reef fish tanks. I've built a few stands and there is a lot on the web dealing with holding the weight of the tank and its contents when building a stand. The link below has a common method that could be adapted (pt lumber, etc) to your scenario. It may be worthwhile to check out.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1567110
 
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ambenz

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You guys and gals are great!
Ha Ha...a lot of this is making me laugh as you are obviously wanting this your way...and I understand.
Maybe this will be a good thread to look back on and say never do it this way. :lol_hitti
I love the dig I got for being a Mustang owner!!! :shocking:
I tend to over build stuff all the time, I learned what works and what doesn't...and what I do not know.
Like I said, I will be testing this design out...if I feel I need more bracing "AFTER" the testing...I will add it...no big deal. It maybe totally unsafe!!!!!
Adding more structure will not be too hard.
No never said I was a engineer...maybe this can be seen as what can I get by with and it works for my conditions...trying to NOT over engineer it.

Keep the comments coming if you want the "disclaimer" I would never do that! ..if you want, it is all good...continuing on with the build....

Installed all the lattice and the cement board top.
https://scontent-ort2-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/36918917_2336861943007004_4117385868782600192_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=1994e04f94d6542b87cfc2277be485e1&oe=5BE94870

Back view of the stand...added a spigot for easy access (totally blew the budget!) as the home spigot will be inside the cabinet,
The easy access spigot will be connected with the hose reel using a y-connector at the house spigot.
https://scontent-ort2-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/36837819_2336865123006686_986354516725071872_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=f623bfb7f12b02fb7412edd20a9fbb59&oe=5BDBCDD5

Side view of the easy access spigot....
https://scontent-ort2-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/36935081_2336865163006682_5430398302208131072_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=f6f2e9ac25282f63acad0776e27edc34&oe=5BE0290A

The area between the planter table and the edge of the corner of the house is the exact same size of the rain barrel stand and the final location.
Stand will be on bricks and leveled, barrels will be strapped to the bricks and totally immobilized.
https://scontent-ort2-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/36803983_2336862053006993_1917728452719411200_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=3869dbe7dd4790d1032c313feb74a79c&oe=5BA6A037

Too hot today to start prep work on the final location, will work on that later in the week.
 
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tslater1989

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You guys and gals are great! Ha Ha...a lot of this is making me laugh as you are obiviously wanting this your way...and I understand.
Maybe this will be a good thread to look back on and say never do it this way. :lol_hitti
I love the dig I got for being a Mustang owner!!! :shocking:
I tend to over build stuff all the time, I learned what works and what doesn't...and what I do not know.
Like I said, I will be testing this design out...if I feel I need more bracing "AFTER" the testing...I will add it...no big deal. It maybe totally unsafe!!!!!
Adding more structure will not be too hard.
No never said I was a engineer...maybe this can be seen as what can I get by with and it works for my conditions...trying to NOT over engineer it.

Keep the comments coming if you want the "disclaimer" I would never do that! ..if you want, it is all good...continuing on with the build....

Installed all the lattice and the cement board top.
https://scontent-ort2-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/36918917_2336861943007004_4117385868782600192_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=1994e04f94d6542b87cfc2277be485e1&oe=5BE94870

Back view of the stand...added a spigot for easy access (totally blew the budget!) as the home spigot will be inside the cabinet,
The easy access spigot will be connected with the hose reel using a y-connector at the house spigot.
https://scontent-ort2-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/36837819_2336865123006686_986354516725071872_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=f623bfb7f12b02fb7412edd20a9fbb59&oe=5BDBCDD5

Side view of the easy access spigot....
https://scontent-ort2-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/36935081_2336865163006682_5430398302208131072_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=f6f2e9ac25282f63acad0776e27edc34&oe=5BE0290A

The area between the planter table and the edge of the corner of the house is the exact same size of the rain barrel stand and the final location.
Stand will be on bricks and leveled, barrels will be strapped to the bricks and totally immobilized.
https://scontent-ort2-2.**.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/36803983_2336862053006993_1917728452719411200_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=3869dbe7dd4790d1032c313feb74a79c&oe=5BA6A037

Too hot today to start prep work on the final location, will work on that later in the week.

Fair enough, you want to prove your right.
I get it. its a proof of concept/pride thing. BUT, when you test it, fully loaded, and bump test it. If.... when, it fails, we all get to say I TOLD YOU SO!!! In all seriousness though, please be careful.
 

BD1

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Fortunately it's only water. Now if those were beer kegs, 4" schedule 40 pipe legs , 4" Or 6" I beam frame , and 1/4" x 4" gussets legs to beams. :beer:
 

PugetDude

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Don't worry guys, that window well cover will divert the inevitable collapse away from the basement window.

28 replies, all saying this is a disaster in the making...yet he forges on with a loadbearing contraption of 2x2's, lattice and drywall screws. Surely this is a joke?
 
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MoonRise

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As a planting bench or tiki bar (if no one is actually drunk), it's nice.

For holding up 850 lbs of water, it is NOT STRONG ENOUGH!

You have 2x2 pressure treated lumber (actual size 1.5"), long and skinny as vertical columns which will likely FAIL by buckling (as mentioned above).

Maybe not immediately, but what about when (not if) the wood gets a split or crack in it as it dries or weathers? When seasonal expansion/contraction cause a split/crack at your fasteners? When the vertical supports all don't evenly touch the ground to evenly support the load? When the water load sloshes sideways from someone/something bumping/pushing on things?

What safety factor (overbuild factor :D ) did you use when you 'designed' that? 2x? 4x? 1/2?

You will have 850 lbs of water, plus cement board, plus snow (Chicago gets snow :lol: ) on your bench. Let's call it 1000 lbs to round off.

With a very limited 2x safety factor, you need to design your structure to safely support at LEAST 2000 lbs.

Quick check, you have six vertical legs. Let's conservatively say you have 4 out of 6 solidly on the ground. That means each leg, if the load is perfectly evenly supported, has to support at least 500 pounds.

Put 500 pounds compressive load on a skinny wooden 2x2 that is ~36 inches long and see if it doesn't buckle and snap. :eek:

Like I said in the beginning, your bench -looks- nice.

It just isn't structurally sufficient to reliably and safely hold 1000 pounds.

IMNSHO.
 

bullnerd

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 17, 2012
Messages
5,690
Location
Jersey
What a bunch of Nancys!

I say go for it.

Screwed and glued, its not going anywhere.
 

WQ59B

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Feb 18, 2010
Messages
762
Location
NJ
As mentioned by someone else earlier, the top is not sitting on top of the legs. The legs are NEXT TO the top, with the entire load hanging as a shear force across one screw on each leg.
Further; the top perimeter frame is doing nothing structurally- those (6) 1.25-in drywall screws have no structural strength- all 850 lbs is going to be on merely those (6) 1.5 x 1.5-in uprights. Everything else is attempting to steady those 6 skinny uprights.
I think the poster who said the failure is going to be sudden & catastrophic is correct.
 

ilovevocs

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Jun 26, 2009
Messages
1,966
Location
Toledo, Ohio
If it fails I would consider using CMU’s as a replacement for the wood design. They are cheap, and would take less time to stack than to build a wood framed Item.

I would remove the stone and loamy soil and start with a compacted stone base.
 
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