Making an extension cord with 10-3 wire

[mrb]

where to go from here...

just install permanant power. To make something portable that is going to be safe and properly done will cost you more than just installing power in your shop. Alternately get a 100ft 8/3 ext cord with the correct connectors for your 240v loads, and a 100ft 10/3 ext cord for your 120v loads.

 

[z28snksknr]

that looks real safe! wtf

That will end up in a junction box... oh wait, I already typed that in the post you quoted

 

[Berserker]

Alternately get a 100ft 8/3 ext cord with the correct connectors for your 240v loads, and a 100ft 10/3 ext cord for your 120v loads.

Run one cable, to a subpanel, is what I would do, temp or not.

 

[mrb]

Run one cable, to a subpanel, is what I would do, temp or not.

and what do you do for gfci protection out of the temporary subpanel?

 

[Berserker]

Why is it temporary? I am not sure if it even matters. I believe a GFI is providing differential protection. Looking at current into the outlet vs current going out, if any is missing it trips. I am not positive. But that is how switchgear is done.

Either way I can't see how the GFI knows the differences. If its not plugged in, you don't a GFI. The panel doesn't know if it lugged or plugged in, as far as I can think of.

 

[mrb]

Why is it temporary? I am not sure if it even matters. I believe a GFI is providing differential protection. Looking at current into the outlet vs current going out, if any is missing it trips. I am not positive. But that is how switchgear is done.

Either way I can't see how the GFI knows the differences. If its not plugged in, you don't a GFI. The panel doesn't know if it lugged or plugged in, as far as I can think of.

when i said temporary i meant if he had a long cord with a panel on the end of it. not talking about GFP on switchgear, but the required GFCI personnel protection for 15 and 20a 120v receptacles outside and in garages. when used in portable power distribution the gfci is supposed to have open neutral protection which a gfci receptacle or breaker does not provide. have to use something like a hubbell gfm-20a or an inline gfci cord.

 

[Berserker]

I am not sure what you mean. Are you saying he needs a device to trip the neutral? Why can't I use a GFI on a subpanel? Thats what he is putting in his shed.

A GFI outlet measures current going out the hot and back in the neutral. I don't think it knows if its a subpanel or the the main panel.

With ground fault protection, in switch gear, you have seperate grounds that are measured. You can't tie to grounds together. With differential protection you measure current going in and current going out, with the idea that it has to be the same. If the CTs are all the same ratio, you then trip if you see a current when you bring all the CTs together. If the ratios are not all the same, you measure voltage created by the mixmatch.

 

[mrb]

I am not sure what you mean. Are you saying he needs a device to trip the neutral? Why can't I use a GFI on a subpanel? Thats what he is putting in his shed.

GFCIs when used in portable power distribution need open neutral protection. This means the gfci trips if the neutral is lost. The reason is that without the supply side neutral the gfci cant trip which could result in a hazardous situation.

If he does a permanant install the above doesnt apply.

 

[Brew62]

I think you should just move. There's no way your ever going to get this figured out.

 

[Berserker]

Ok. It works for the most part, its just a code issue. While not up to code, I probably wouldn't let that stop me.

 

[slimpickins]

Shot of the stranded wire:

My 2 cents - nobody seems to have noticed the stranded wire problem. These wires should be tinned with solder. The connectors in the receptacle are designed for solid conductors and the stranded conductors will loosen and break when you're tightening the screw.

Stranded wire under any kind of screw is not the best way to make a good connection.

 

[Berserker]

Didn't catch that. We lug most wires.

 

[countrytech]

I think you should just move. There's no way your ever going to get this figured out.

no kidding!

 

[mrb]

My 2 cents - nobody seems to have noticed the stranded wire problem. These wires should be tinned with solder. The connectors in the receptacle are designed for solid conductors and the stranded conductors will loosen and break when you're tightening the screw.

Stranded wire under any kind of screw is not the best way to make a good connection.

actually they should not be tinned. the solder cold flows under pressure resulting in a loose connection. The instructions for most wiring devices with clamp type terminals say to not tin stranded wire.

The terminals in that receptacle are not designed for use with finely stranded wire.

 

[e-tek]

Shot of the stranded wire:

Should those wires be touching eachother??

 

[erazor983]

Should those wires be touching eachother??

So long as it matches up the same on the plug end he's fine. The problem is it's a 3 wire plug/receptacle and a 4 wire cable.