Making flat laminated glass windows, need advice.

[Strouty]

I have a couple pieces of equipment and they have lexan windows that have been scratched and faded to the point you can't see through them. I would like to replace them myself, but not sure if I should try laminated glass or stick with lexan?

The local glass guy wants almost $2000 to replace the windows with glass, it seems way too high, but maybe it is a good deal, I just don't know.

What I am trying to figure out is how do I cut corners? Almost all the pieces have rounded corners.

I am also having trouble finding the gasket material, I think he called it 1/8" to 1/4" pinch gasket?

I think it would be a nice thing to learn to do and it seems doable, anyone have any experience or advice?

Thanks guys.

 

[Thumper68]

I have done straight cuts in laminated glass, cut it like normal and then use lighter fluid to melt the plastic.

I have no idea how to do rounded corners.

Found this for you

I wound guess it is just like doing rounded corners on regular glass.

 

[SilverSS1969]

I think its going to depend on the thickness the guy is quoting you and the size of it.

We have to order the glass windows on a few of our Okuma, Mazak and Mori Seiki lathes. We go right to them to buy. They range anywhere from $1200 (window is roughly 24x24) to $2500 (window is 48x48). All are about 3/4 inch thick.

 

[Thumper68]

Watched a few more video's and think that I would give cutting it myself a try.

Buy enough glass for 1 window and if it worked out buy more.

 

[rsanter]

You can buy the laminated glass and have it water jetted to shape

If you go back with lexan I would put clear film over the lexan. Like the tear offs they use in nascar. Install several and pull them off as you need to

Bob

 

[Milton Shaw]

I wonder if the coating they use to make eye glasses scratch resistant would work in what you are trying to do. The plastic lens are dipped in the liquid and then allowed to dry. It's really tough compared to the original lens. Lexan is basically bullet proof and that may be a requirement on the machine to make it safe to operate, you might run into insurance problems if you replaced bullet proof plastic with glass of any kind.

 

[Rookie2]

Find a local house glass /hardware store ,sometimes they are paint stores. If they cut glass for home doors and windows ,they can or have laminated sheet glass. I've had the hardened safety glass ordered thru them and made by the glass supplier. I've also ordered safety glass for a pickup door glass (see my avatar pic) made to my pattern thru a commercial glass installer.

In any case laminated glass is available ! $ 2000.00 is a rip off !
If you find a glass repair shop (buildings etc.) they will lop the corners at 45 deg for a small cut fee and you can then round the corners with a belt sander and lots of water.

Seals : http://truck-hardware.orrorr.com/viewitems/weatherstrip-caulk-trim/weatherstrips?

or http://www.restorationspecialties.com/

 

[Strouty]

There is no issue with insurance, the laminated glass would last a lot longer than the lexan as far as clarity. The thickness is only 1/4", I have not found a place to buy the laminated glass, but the lexan is about $215 for a 4 x 8 sheet. I would most likely need two sheets to do everything, and a roll of the gasket. I had not thought of a coating or using a tear off cover. I am wondering how long the lexan will last, the excavator is 30 years old and I think it was fine for at least 10 years.

I will have to call a few glass places about the laminated sheets, I am also going to see about what it would cost to water jet it, that would be great.

 

[Rookie2]

http://portlandglass.com/residential-glass/safety-glass/

residential 1/4 laminated glass cut to your pattern is what to ask for.

don't try to buy sheets of glass and cut it yourself, ain't gona happen ! If you have never worked with plate glass it isn't something you can do from reading it here ! or youtube .

 

[Strouty]

I was concerned about making the corners so I had not called them yet. Now I want to try it. I will see what it would cost to cut the rectangular shape, then I can try and round the corners. I am guessing that I can 45 the corners with a cutter so I don't need to sand so much.

 

[Rookie2]

You can buy ceramic router bits for a dremill tool or rotozip at lowes but use water , heat is the big problem and prying or chipping the main piece.

sandblasting is another option.

 

[Strouty]

I found the gasket, looks like they make it themselves. They have a lot of nice products. I will be placing an order.

https://www.trimlok.com/prod/Two-Pi...ets/All-Product-Categories_137/LK1035_60.aspx

 

[Bill Bowman]

Flat laminated glass can be cut with a wet saw, as used for tile.

 

[Strouty]

I am not worried about the straight cuts, it is the curved corners that I think would be tricky.

 

[ilovevocs]

For older equipment we buy the glass cut, chalk it to the machine with non curing butyl sealant, and drill and tap holes to bolt 16 gauge retaining clips to. I make the clips on my leaf break. It doesn't look oe, but for me it's kind of a get if done cheap, make it work, and make money with it pursuit. The Windows seem to get abused regardless. I don't run my own equipment; we are a larger company, so it does get abused. If I was a smaller business to the point where I was more hands on with my equipment I may invest more into it knowing it was going to be well cared for on the job site.

I don't round any of the corners. Just square cuts. If I have to fill a void with sheet metal we paint it to match the machine.

 

[Strouty]

That is another idea. On the forklift I probably would not care, but the excavator I really do care. I think I can do all the glass for less than what I was quoted to do about half of it, this would include investment in tools.

For right now I just removed the two front windows on the forklift, I will have to cover the cab at night (or not care). I do really feel it is something worth learning, I am not opposed to investing some time and money into a new skill.

 

[arrowhead]

I am not worried about the straight cuts, it is the curved corners that I think would be tricky.

Belt Sander - works like a charm

 

[Strouty]

I think this is going to be a fun project. Definitely a skill I will be able to use in the future.

Thanks for all the tips guys, I will update when I actually start making the windows.

 

[LXCam]

You can achieve the same properties by using plate glass covered on both sides by vandal resistant clear tint. That **** takes an ax to cut through it and it's not all that expensive.

 

[rlitman]

I wonder if the coating they use to make eye glasses scratch resistant would work in what you are trying to do. The plastic lens are dipped in the liquid and then allowed to dry. It's really tough compared to the original lens.

+1 My last eyeglasses were polycarbonate (lexan), and I didn't have a scratching issue. My current lenses are an even softer impact resistant plastic (on rimless frames, polycarbonate has an issue with stress cracking), and the anti-scratch coating is even better. My optician explained that the current generation of coatings is actually harder and more scratch resistant than glass itself.

Look at DuPont "Margard" as an example. This is a scratchitti resistant lexan, that uses a coating which cannot be scratched by a pumice stone. Yeah, it's expensive, but it's still going to be cheaper than the numbers being thrown about this thread, and is going to be much more impact resistant than laminated glass, and should be easy enough to cut too.

 

[kbs2244]

I would talk to an auto glass shop.
Flat panels of laminated glass should be easy for them.

 

[Strouty]

The window film looks like it could be a good option, I know that regular 1/4" glass would be much easier to get and cut (cheaper too). I saw some for sale on amazon, I may get a small roll and try it out.

 

[oldtractors]

I had glass made for an old tractor cab last year. Safety glass and laminated glass was the same price. $7/sq foot, cut to size. I installed it all myself with their advice. The price was good enough that I ended up replacing all the glass because even the non broken panes were cloudy. The rubber trim cost me more than the glass. This was at a local auto and building glass place. $2000 would buy a lot of glass

 

[JimPTx]

I did auto glass, including cutting laminated and installing in equipment for many years, and my family is still in the business.

I'd have a shop cut it. It's not hard, but you will break some glass learning how to run out a score. It's also a lot easier when you have the right tools like running pliers. You cut corners just like you do straight runs, and then clean it up with a big belt sander using water to cool the edge.

If you feel like you can install it, make a pattern, have the shop cut it and give it a try. Try one or two pieces first before you commit to doing all of it. It shouldn't cost any more. I used to price it by the square foot.

The lexan is probably good enough to use as a pattern. If not, take out the gasket and trace the outline of the metal opening on a piece of stiff cardboard. Keep your line as tight to the edge as you can. Take the pattern and the gasket to the glass shop. They'll need the gasket to figure out how much larger or smaller the glass is compared to the opening. When you pick up the cut glass ask the shop to give or sell you a "plastic stick." The glass wholesalers usually give them away, so if they do charge you it won't be much.

To install, put the gasket on the metal. Lube it with spray silicone (or glass cleaner if you're in an area they do painting.). Set the glass into the groove in the gasket on the bottom of the opening. Work the glass into the gasket with the plastic stick. It's not hard, just don't rush it. If you need to push the glass into the gasket to seat it, slap it gently flat handed. Zip up the gasket and you're done.

Hope the helps!

 

[GreyOwl]

I did auto glass, including cutting laminated and installing in equipment for many years, and my family is still in the business.

I'd have a shop cut it. It's not hard, but you will break some glass learning how to run out a score. It's also a lot easier when you have the right tools like running pliers. You cut corners just like you do straight runs, and then clean it up with a big belt sander using water to cool the edge.

If you feel like you can install it, make a pattern, have the shop cut it and give it a try. Try one or two pieces first before you commit to doing all of it. It shouldn't cost any more. I used to price it by the square foot.

The lexan is probably good enough to use as a pattern. If not, take out the gasket and trace the outline of the metal opening on a piece of stiff cardboard. Keep your line as tight to the edge as you can. Take the pattern and the gasket to the glass shop. They'll need the gasket to figure out how much larger or smaller the glass is compared to the opening. When you pick up the cut glass ask the shop to give or sell you a "plastic stick." The glass wholesalers usually give them away, so if they do charge you it won't be much.

To install, put the gasket on the metal. Lube it with spray silicone (or glass cleaner if you're in an area they do painting.). Set the glass into the groove in the gasket on the bottom of the opening. Work the glass into the gasket with the plastic stick. It's not hard, just don't rush it. If you need to push the glass into the gasket to seat it, slap it gently flat handed. Zip up the gasket and you're done.

Hope the helps!

Make sure you don't have a ring on the hand you slap it with either

 

[jimgood]

Not sure this is applicable but it cuts glass with the diamond blade (end of video) and it should cut curves, so...

Credit this post by kctyphoon: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=311888