Making form to straighten damaged pole barn tin

[zkdiesel]

So I have 80 32’ white pop barn sheets I got for free
Going to use it as the ceiling In The remodeled shop.
It’s cleary’s better tin, about 8 years old. Was the roof on neighbors building, got minor hail damage and ins paid to replace it all.

The hail damage I have no worry’s on, the problem is it was nailed on the high’s.
Half of it is pretty nice, the other half must have had an animal removing it and is smashed in from the wonder bar prying nails up

Like to make a jig from a Good sheet that I can lay the damaged tin on for the nail row and then beat from the backside of it forewards info the shape I need to look decent. Going on a 16’ tall ceiling, doesn’t have to be perfect....

What do I use to make the good template sheet Rigid? Make a 3x3 form and pour concrete in it? Quick poor epoxy like people are making tables from?

Figure just need a 3x3 section that I can lay each row of nails on, beat flat, slide up, so next row and repeat till sheet is decent as I hang them. Ideas?

 

[Kaizen]

Overthinking it. Plane/saw down some 2x to the rounded impression or use a pipe. Whatever is the v shape. Have it on plywood over saw horse and wack away. Use pick hammer or bodywork hammers for fine tuning.
Give it a shot and go from there. If you can weld I’d build up some steel for the tool


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[like2wheel]

I think your concrete idea sounds like a great plan. Cheap, quick & easy. Might consider making the plug of the backside & work it down from the front with mallets & wood blocks. Epoxy would be expensive & brittle.
Wondering if fiber mesh would be worthwhile add in to reduce the risk of chipping.

 

[Dumber than lumber]

Angle steel?
And a hammer with a square head.

 

[egdede]

I think the concrete will chip, crack and outright break. Use wood or steel as suggested above.

 

[PugetDude]

3x3 is too big, unless you're going to put it in a monster press or drive over it with a monster truck...too many angles to re-form at once, you'll never be able to apply enough localized pressure to control the bending.

I'd try making a set of male/ female forms about 16"-18" long that you can slide along two of the major trapezoids at once- rip beveled strips out of oak, hickory or hard maple, screw them to a piece of hardwood so you have a pair of sleds- one on top of the panel and one underneath. Round the leading and trailing edges with a belt sander so you don't get an edge impression. Work down the length of the panel, whacking the top form with a big mallet or deadblow hammer over the deformed areas. Be prepared to replace the wood dies occasionally, the jagged nail holes will beat it up pretty bad. Move the sled over to the next set of traps and repeat. Its going to be a tedious process, but you're going to have to work the damage out slowly if it's going to look right.

Good luck, post pics of whatever you do.

 

[matt_i]

Wood, if you can use a hardwood like maple would be a choice easy-to-work with a rasp and/or belt sander. End-grain vertical would be my choice.

If you want to put more time into it, Delrin or steel would be my choice. Snip a pattern with scissors that fits, repair with masking tape if need-be, then transfer to the material and cut-to-the-line.

Concrete sounds like a huge pain and then will be extremely brittle & abrasive.

 

[txvwnut]

Plywood on edge is pretty strong and what a lot of kit plane and rod builders use for forming bucks. You could make a bottom buck the full width and make the hammer form piece smaller to work just one high rib at a time. I'm guessing your not looking for precision just to get it a little straighter for install so this method would work rather well.

 

[rebelranger]

I say your time is worth more then fixing it. Either use as is and get the deal you bargained for or use it for interior. Seriously you'll be ahead in long run to not spend all your personal time fixing disposable tin.

 

[Augus7us]

I think wood is going to deform too quickly. I think epoxy may work, I had a quart leftover from my floor and poured it into a cup. When it dried we hit it with a sledge hammer and tried to chip it. We couldn't. My step son tried for a long time lol.

If it were me, I think this is the easiest way to fix the problem:

Put all those panels on craigslist for like $350 OBO. Take whatever money you get and put it towards the cheap menards durapanels for ceilings. Install those and be done.

Good luck, that's going to be a ton of work in my eyes!

 

[Augus7us]

I honestly would not do this myself and just buy the panels from menards. I did for my 30x40 and they were just under 800 I believe.

However... If someone put a gun to my head and told me to fix your panels here is what i would actually do.

In blacksmithing we have a tool called the spring fuller. I could make a bottom fuller out of steel the shape of the rib. The top would be a piece of wood. The bottom would be on something stable at a height just above my saw horses. I would lay a panel so the start of the rib was on the bottom fuller and one of my saw horses. Then I would have someone pull the panel through while I hammered the top fuller as it was passing.

Here is a photo of a fuller:

Hopefully that makes sense. Your fuller would have to have a deeper throat but you get the point. Pretty easy to make.

 

[sberry]

Yes, was going to say the same or similar. I might cut the rib profile in a 4x4 or even better, or build it a little, flip the sheet, frag it along and have the inside profile cut in to the end of a hard 2x4, pull sheet to form and whack each one with the die and hammer. Make the die easy 1 hand hold, foot long or so and a 3 or 4#, should be able to hit them once.

 

[sberry]

The best deal on sheeting is about a dollar a running foot.