Making simple pallet forks from mostly scrap...

[RogueFab]

This might be my first thread on here...

Making pallet forks for a front end loader. I know you all will hate this... They are going to be fixed width! I want them rigid, and the pallets I handle have a small range of widths. These are going to be simple, and rated for a ton (total) with a safety factor of 2.0. Main goal here is cheap.

Starting with the only purchased part/material: Quick Attach plate. 5/16 and 3/8 A50 steel. Less than $100 delivered, and saves a day of fab work since we don't have tools to mess with plate.

Next we bent up some 1 inch .095 wall square stock for a material safety rack. It won't stop a one ton hay bale, but I don't do hay work

This is posted on one other forum, but I like it a little better here and wanted to share.

 

[dr_clyde]

Nifty. Looks clean.

Personally, I have a tendency to load up material handling equipment to the max, so, id have made them to at least the fork truck capacity.

But, if all you're lifting is a ton, they should work fine. Nice looking work.

 

[RogueFab]

Nifty. Looks clean.

Personally, I have a tendency to load up material handling equipment to the max, so, id have made them to at least the fork truck capacity.

But, if all you're lifting is a ton, they should work fine. Nice looking work.

They are going on a tractor front end loader, so the capacity of the equipment isn't much over a ton way out at the end of the loader.

 

[RogueFab]

Time to get back to wrapping up these forks (probably by week end). Here is the FEA to prove out the load rating. These are going to be a little shorter than standard, probably 40 inches.

Assumptions: evenly distributed load, 51 KSI yield (conservative, especially in weld areas), omitted weld area in model compensates for weakening from HAZ.

Conditions: Fixed back (of the L shape). 2000 lb load.

Results: Only the two small areas had yield at double the load i'm rating the forks for. So the safety factor is at or just below 2.0 with a one ton load shared between the forks.

 

[bimmer1980]

What is the size of your forks?

You might also think about running the FEA on a point load at 24" from the attach plate.... Most forklifts post their rating at that distance....

It's intriguing that you have access to FEA. What program are you using for that? I use Creo 2.0 for my design work, but I haven't really gotten into the FEA stuff....

 

[RogueFab]

What is the size of your forks?

You might also think about running the FEA on a point load at 24" from the attach plate.... Most forklifts post their rating at that distance....

It's intriguing that you have access to FEA. What program are you using for that? I use Creo 2.0 for my design work, but I haven't really gotten into the FEA stuff....

Oh this is good to know. Might as well rate them the way everyone else does!

I have SolidWorks 2013 Pro (the one with the higher simulation package). I have been using SW FEA it for years. Its not too bad. A Lot easier than NX.

 

[RogueFab]

Time for more pics. Had to go invest a few more bucks in metal. Bought some 5/16 x 2 flat bar (had to match the thickness of the original plate, no 5/16 laying around). About half of the 20 foot stick at $32/stick is going into the project. So that takes us up to $127 (full cost of the $32 stick included).

Now more scrap bin metal : )

Big chunk of 3/8 tack welded to the forks to keep them straight and flat while welding. They will be extended up to the top bar in a bit...

 

[rsanter]

Here is a problem that I see with this. To my knowledge the factory forks are heat treated and are like a spring so that they flex and don't bend ( per-say) and of they fail they actually snap.
Depending on what you are lifting you could bend those forks little by little over time

Bob

 

[RogueFab]

Here is a problem that I see with this. To my knowledge the factory forks are heat treated and are like a spring so that they flex and don't bend ( per-say) and of they fail they actually snap.
Depending on what you are lifting you could bend those forks little by little over time

Bob

Bob-

My calculations were based on yield strength (the point when the spring first begins to NOT return). They will flex just like a tempered OEM fork. I just have to use a much more rigid beam than they do. Most forks are 1.0 or 1.25 thick solid flat bar. Mine are 2 inch thick box tube (.188 wall).

I will scrap these if they bend and don't return.

 

[mweg]

Just my $.02 here...

You have done a fine job of accounting for the load you plan to lift under static conditions. However, dynamic loading (such as when you are driving your front end loader over bumpy terrain) has not been taken into account. Dynamic loads can be hard to estimate, and this is one reason lifting equipment is typically designed with much higher safety factors. Fatigue could also be a problem at these high stress levels. You must also consider the possibility that the load you are lifting may be unevenly distributed between the two forks or from front to back. I would rather see a safety factor of at least 4 on a design like this.

Your design will most likely be ok for normal, non-abusive use, but please do not stand or work under anything close to load limit supported by these forks.

 

[RogueFab]

Just my $.02 here...

You have done a fine job of accounting for the load you plan to lift under static conditions. However, dynamic loading (such as when you are driving your front end loader over bumpy terrain) has not been taken into account. Dynamic loads can be hard to estimate, and this is one reason lifting equipment is typically designed with much higher safety factors. Fatigue could also be a problem at these high stress levels. You must also consider the possibility that the load you are lifting may be unevenly distributed between the two forks or from front to back. I would rather see a safety factor of at least 4 on a design like this.

Your design will most likely be ok for normal, non-abusive use, but please do not stand or work under anything close to load limit supported by these forks.

I agree with you. If I ever pick up a one ton pallet, I will be very careful and not get under it. 95%+ of the work these forks will do is picking up pallets under 800 lbs. But you are right about bouncing 200 lbs on these, especially when not balanced side to side.

Oh, and welcome to the board! (posting anyhow).

 

[mweg]

Sounds like you are well aware of the limitations here so you should be fine.

Thanks for the welcome! I guess that is kind of a weird first post... Been lurking a long time here but never found a reason to comment until I saw steel structures, Solidworks, and machine design stuff all in one thread! My favorites all in one place.

Best of luck with your build!

 

[kenfain]

Welcome to the forum! There's another thread about forks on a loader, that I thought was interesting. His isn't as fancy though. But instead, it's a re purposed pallet jack. Really cool redneck engineering, when you also consider the cost of a scrap pallet jack is probably nil. But anyway, as to the o.p. You probably want to think about adding a hook up for a three point hitch. That way it can also be used on the rear of the tractor. You never know what you'll need. Better to have it and not need it. Than the other way around. Nice job by the way! I have one of those cheap angle iron fork things, like they sell at tractor supply. It came with the tractor. The guy I bought it from, rigged it to also work on the loader. I only move brush, so it does okay, but I really like the one here in this thread. Nice work!

 

[RogueFab]

mweg- I definitely didn't have a high enough safety factor for dynamic loading, so your post shed some light on that. Thank you.

Kenfain- A pallet jack for forks? Don't all pallet jacks have support at the end of the forks though? A 3 PT is a good idea. Not sure if I can make it without getting in the way of the quick attach. I will definitely consider it for the future though. If It doesn't work, I can make a 3 PT quick attach plate and then I can attach anything to the back. These forks are being made about a 90 minute drive from where the tractor is... can't test fit until its done and moved.

 

[-Brent-]

This is more of a comment because I don't know much about much but how do the welds factor in to the measurements? Will there be any plating or gusseting that welded 90* section?

Having used a forklift a lot in a past job, I wouldn't be worried with those forks at 800#. A half ton or more, I'd be feeling a little skittish until I saw how they worked.

Also, nice work on the racking. Cool thread.

 

[kenfain]

mweg- I definitely didn't have a high enough safety factor for dynamic loading, so your post shed some light on that. Thank you.

Kenfain- A pallet jack for forks? Don't all pallet jacks have support at the end of the forks though? A 3 PT is a good idea. Not sure if I can make it without getting in the way of the quick attach. I will definitely consider it for the future though. If It doesn't work, I can make a 3 PT quick attach plate and then I can attach anything to the back. These forks are being made about a 90 minute drive from where the tractor is... can't test fit until its done and moved.

Yep! The man has made forks, out of a pallet jack. Don't look too bad either. Unfortunately, I don't know how to post a link, although I tried. But I think the three point hook up could be useful. If you find the thread, it shows him driving with a half full pallet of cinder block. Not a small amount of weight. And that right there is kinda what I'm talking bout. Just picture this ... If you have to move a load like that. It'd be more stable riding behind. On the rear, hooked to the three point. Now if you needed to lift it up in the air. Just set it down, and turn the tractor around, lift it up. See how you just doubled its usefulness? But I have to say, mine evolved the other way around. It was originally made to attach to the three point. The original owner modified it to attach to the bucket. And in all fairness, I'll admit, that's how I've always used it. But I only carry brush on it, not bricks. YMMV.

 

[RogueFab]

I have had them done for a while now. I have moved plenty of stuff (compressor, logs, pallets of material, etc). Love them.

I have a pallet break from being set on two 4x4s (middle sagged from weight on the pallet) so i calculated the weight. Apparantly my supplier thought my "1500 lbs max" wasn't important. It was just over a 2000# pallet of steel



~1400 lbs of AL:


(and yes, I choked up on the pallet after I pulled it off the trailer on the ends of the forks like the pic shows).

 

[steel 35]

I will scrap these if they bend and don't return.

~1400 lbs of AL:

If they bend can I come over and pick them up

 

[RogueFab]

If they bend can I come over and pick them up

Sure. Sort of already tested them out. They don't appear to want to bend...

 

[xyster101]

What will max out first, the tractor hydraulics or the rigidity of the forks?
It would be great if the hydraulics could not lift a load the forks could handle. I have used that same tractor with bought forks trying to move a rock. I could get the rock about 1" in the air and had to push/bounce it across the yard. Forks did not bend or break.

Nice design and fabrication btw

 

[bimmer1980]

The forks turned out nice!!!

Now you wonder how you were able to function with out them!!!

 

[RogueFab]

What will max out first, the tractor hydraulics or the rigidity of the forks?
It would be great if the hydraulics could not lift a load the forks could handle. I have used that same tractor with bought forks trying to move a rock. I could get the rock about 1" in the air and had to push/bounce it across the yard. Forks did not bend or break.

Nice design and fabrication btw

The hydro steering gets really sluggish with over 2K on them. I think I would loose steering before lift hydraulics or fork damage.

The forks turned out nice!!!

Now you wonder how you were able to function with out them!!!

I can't believe how often I use them

 

[bad_idea]

very nice. I have zero experience with tractors, but plenty with forklifts. I am curious how long it takes to remove the bucket and put the forks on it? I am learning more everyday how impatient I am. If it takes 5 minute to assemble a tool or dig it out of a cupboard, I get irritated and probably won't put it back. Lazy, I know.

 

[RogueFab]

very nice. I have zero experience with tractors, but plenty with forklifts. I am curious how long it takes to remove the bucket and put the forks on it? I am learning more everyday how impatient I am. If it takes 5 minute to assemble a tool or dig it out of a cupboard, I get irritated and probably won't put it back. Lazy, I know.

The first time it took me 20 minutes.

Every time since then has been about 1.5-2.5 minutes.

 

[madosta]

This is really neat. Nice work.

I will say that as a farm boy, we use lots of tractors and pallet fork attachments both on the front and the back of tractors. They all bend because you end up using them for all sorts of things!

One drawback for you is that since they are not djustable width wise, (great for standard pallets like you say) but if you ever want to plant trees, or pick rocks, or hell who knows what, you will want to adjust them.

Don't fret, you can find some forkflift forks for cheap somewhere and then mount them to some angle on your existing plate.

Nice work. Use 'em!