Making tablesaw base

[Dansdad]

I have a base I made for my tablesaw a while ago, but I made it straight no taper. I'm going to make another as this one is rocking. Does anyone know how much wider the base should be than the saw for stability? Thanks all. Dave

 

[Jswain]

You could always just add a square ring around the bottom made out of say 2x4 on its side. My tablesaw has a straight base as well with a ring around the bottom that sticks out about 3" and is very sturdy

 

[BlindViper]

Can you post a picture of what you have? You could add some 2x4's to the bottom horizontal plane. This will give you extra width at the base. This could be enough for you or will tell you how much yup need to taper the base.

 

[RKA]

It's rocking because the 4 legs aren't sitting on the same plane? It's rocking because the legs are flexing? Or it's rocking because center of gravity is too high with a sheet of plywood being fed into the table?

If its the last, add a 2x4 running front to back bolted to both legs extending 6" beyond the front and back edges of the table overhangs, as blind viper suggested. Otherwise, you just need to add some more bracing and leveling feet to the existing stand.

 

[ez-duzit]

You can make the base any size you'd like and be as creative as you wish. But be careful not to raise it above a safe and comfortable level.

My main table saw is a Rockwell Unisaw with factory enclosed base beneath which I've added an inverted U-shaped sub-base of 2x4, open near the operator, into which slides a shallow wooden drawer/sawdust catcher.

The operator-right-hand table extension I custom made from aluminum square bar, an old table saw top and some parts from the factory table extension kit, such that it receives my inverted 3-1/2 hp Stanley router. The Unifence then serves both saw and router.

On the operator-left side is the rail for a sliding table.

A solid-core door forms a permanent back-table and is supported at the saw and table extension by a heavy angle, and at the other long edge by a 2x4 leg and a shelf unit. This table also functions as a workbench with flush-mounted vise. It is topped with 1/4" Masonite into which I have routed slots to clear the tracks on the saw sled and miter gauge.

Photo from back-table perspective shows how I've chosen to organize the space I've used. Large drawer unit and rollaway cabinet.

 

[jakemac]

Are you certain the your floor is level ?

My shop has a concrete floor that ripples all over the map. Nothing sits level without shims.