I have a inside door in my 24' deep x 36' wide 2 story shop. The inside door is about 48" wide. I would like to increase it to 72". How do I determine if it's safe to do so? 72" basically would be running the wider header to the next stud on either side of the existing opening as shown in the picture.
Making wider door opening inside garage
- Thread starter MattN03
- Start date
Well a picture of the above roof would help. I'm no engineer so wouldn't want to give you a recommendation. But considering most garage doors have double or triple lvl's for an 8-16' span it should more then cover your 72" door opening. I'm sure some internet research could help your load limits of header materials
bczygan
Well-known member
Is it a bearing wall? If so, determine the load and size the header from a table (They are all over the net).
Alternatively, get the next bigger size (Depth) member from what you have. If you have dimensional lumber, use LVL's.
Bill
larry4406
Well-known member
Look up.
If your door plane is parallel to the trusses and the trusses clear span, then non load bearing and you can open it up.
If door plane is perpendicular to the trusses and all other trusses are braced or sitting on a wall at same location, then most likely a load bearing wall and a header would be needed.
If your door plane is parallel to the trusses and the trusses clear span, then non load bearing and you can open it up.
If door plane is perpendicular to the trusses and all other trusses are braced or sitting on a wall at same location, then most likely a load bearing wall and a header would be needed.
matt_i
Well-known member
I think he means take the 11-7/8 x 1-3/4 LVL and put two side by side, so you have 3-1/2" thickness. Probably nail off around every 8" at the top and bottom with #16s. I would buy a 14 foot length so you have enough to get two legit 72" pieces. I would go to two jacks on each side. So this is going to add another 3" each side to the 72", so its 78" pieces. Total of 13 feet and still able to cut out of a 14 foot length. Due to the extra cost of the LVL I like to measure, square, and setup a circular saw fence that's clamped to the timber to assure a nice cut. Not needed if you had a sliding mitersaw or radial arm saw, etc.
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OK, I'll check some of the local lumber yards. Thanks everyone!
bczygan
Well-known member
this!
kerr
Well-known member
kerr
Well-known member
Yes sir it is .You use some good wood glue and screw it together and you could hand a army tank from it . 1 jack stud screwed on good will be plenty too . Im no builder but I have built 3 houses and my shop here in tornado country and there all still here .
Thank you Jesus .
Thank you Jesus .