Making wood vise jaws for Workmate

[abstamaria]

A damp sailbag was left on my old Black and Decker Workmate, and the top boards bloated and warped beyond salvation. Black and Decker call these wood boards "vise jaws."

I don't want to buy a new Workmate as this one has been with me for decades, and I am thinking of making my own vise jaws. I am not a woodworker at all and would appreciate some advice:

1. I was thinking of using solid hardwood, instead of plywood as original. Is that a good idea?

2. The basic rectangular boards with holes seem easy enough to make, but how do I make the V grooves on the inner edges of the boards? These are handy for holding pipe, hoses, etc.

Working with wood has always been very apppealing to me, but I am a complete novice, so please excuse these basic questions.

Many thnaks in advance,

Andy

 

[Stephenw]

A hardwood would be fine. Maple is probably best. Oak would be my second choice. Poplar is cheap, but not quite as hard.

Drill the holes with a forstner, spade, or auger bit.

Cut the notch with a hand saw. Clean it up with a sharp chisel or a file.

Check out my child sized version here...

http://shopngarage.com/2011/12/childs-folding-workbench/

 

[onewaydave]

Some local box stores carry Hickory/Pecan which would also be good. The draw back to HW vs ply is movement of the wood and $$$. Good for you keeping it and not going new/replacement.

A "butcher" block I hear is available from IKEA (really just a laminate) would combat the movement issue.

Dave.

 

[lilredex]

In your area, you should have no problem finding some suitable hardwood to use.

I scrounged locally, some beautiful mahogany that came as crates from Indonesia. It is hard as nails, mostly cabinet grade, and very durable.

Have a look at this project.....http://shedprojects.blogspot.ca/2011/06/black-decker-workmate-refit.html


If that is the type of "V" you would like to install, it is easiest to do on a table saw, or a router with a "V" bit or even a straight hand saw if you work carefully and clamp some type of guide to your work, to guide the saw.

 

[Thorold]

I've always used plain spruce 2x6 on mine. I can drill holes where needed and don't have to worry about it being pretty.

 

[zip95864]

Some local box stores carry Hickory/Pecan which would also be good. The draw back to HW vs ply is movement of the wood and $$$. Good for you keeping it and not going new/replacement.

A "butcher" block I hear is available from IKEA (really just a laminate) would combat the movement issue.

Dave.

My inlaws said that IKEA has phased out their countertops (at least here in Northern California)

 

[Outlawmws]

A damp sailbag was left on my old Black and Decker Workmate, and the top boards bloated and warped beyond salvation. Black and Decker call these wood boards "vise jaws."

I don't want to buy a new Workmate as this one has been with me for decades, and I am thinking of making my own vise jaws. I am not a woodworker at all and would appreciate some advice:

1. I was thinking of using solid hardwood, instead of plywood as original. Is that a good idea?

2. The basic rectangular boards with holes seem easy enough to make, but how do I make the V grooves on the inner edges of the boards? These are handy for holding pipe, hoses, etc.

Working with wood has always been very apppealing to me, but I am a complete novice, so please excuse these basic questions.

Many thnaks in advance,

Andy

Are you talking about the grooves that went lengthwise on the edge, or simple V notches vertically in the jaw face?

 

[barks]

Black & Decker will sell you replacement jaws, P/N 5140006-26 for $45.44. Google B&D.

 

[rlitman]

For wood vise jaws, maple is my first choice, followed by beech if you can get it.

Oak makes for big splinters. Ash too. Not a good choice.

Mahogany and teak would probably be great, but are too expensive for this use for me.

 

[Steevo]

I made new tops for one about ten years ago, using 4/4 oak planks.
I routed the horizontal V-groove in the edges, and bored the peg holes using a forstner bit.
It was a refurbish I did for a friend who had the Workmate since about 1975.
I have one of the same vintage, and plan to make new tops for it in the future.

One drawback to the solid wood tops is that the edges splinter off more easily than plywood does, and it will crack from pounding on it.

 

[Shoottx]

Andy

The best replacement would be made out of Baltic Birch plywood which is a multi-layered plywood with no voids in any layer. What we can Baltic Birch is a Russian product, a finer grade of this product is used in the construction of homebuilt aircraft. I would stay away from the Chinese versions it tends not to be as consistent in quality.

The advantage of plywood is stability, and of the other wood mentioned have the potential of moving with weather changes.

Use the old version as a template. Use a drill press and a forstner bit for the holes. If you want to recreate the groove on the edge it can be done with either a router, table saw or an end mill.

Hope this helps.

 

[demographic]

I have a load of teak that I removed from a school that closed down a few years ago so have pretty much as much supply as I need for these type things.

The original "Jaws" are a bit **** anyway. Worth replacing with better stuff.

 

[abstamaria]

Many, many thanks, all. Great advice and much information new to me. I've noted them all and will see what's available here I'll give the job a shot and try to do a good job.

Andy

 

[senlow]

Baltic Birch plywood is a good choice. Black & Decker used a similar plywood on the Workmate in the '70s.

 

[coolreed]

I have a very old workmate and replaced the top with 2" ash hardwood. Replaced the plastic grips with brass. I also utilized larger pieces for the top so the work surface would be larger. I use it a lot.

Easy mod too.

 

[ArkTinkerer]

Have you looked at some of the PVC "lumber"? Waterproof, strong, and easy to work with. Only drawback I can see is chemical resistance--some solvents will just eat it up.

ArkTinkerer

 

[rick carpenter]

I wouldn't worry about using softwood at all. It's cheaper so you won't hesitate to attach jigs to it, i.e., you can always make another for not so much. A lot of woodworkers insist on softwood benchtops.

 

[Nowater]

If you have access to Shopnotes magazine, Vol 18 no. 104 March / April 2009, the guy has an entire article on a shop built "Workmate." He used baltic birch plywood doubled up for the vice jaws. He has a lot of other good ideas too, if you care for working with wood.

 

[Zeke]

To make the "v" just bevel the top and an equal length about 1.5" long. Reverse the lower piece so that the "v's" are concave and glue and screw. No router needed. The vertical v should be opposite to me, not offset. Never used those anyway.

I will have steel tops for these soon on my website for not much more than B&D charges for the wood replacements. Still working on how I want to treat the holes. The plastic dogs are not very good so I'm thinking smaller holes and steel pins.

 

[abstamaria]

Many, many thanks again. I've disassembled the Workmate, a 79-001 model, and begun to look for wood or plywood here. Baltic birch is not a available, it seems.

Those are all great suggestions; I may just spring for a router.

I don't have access to Shopnotes, Nowater, but will try to locate that issue. Zeke, I would love to follow your project. Why not post here as well? I recall reading an article that said that the very first Workmate swivel pegs were not plastic but magnesium! Can that be right?

Thank you all again.

Andy

 

[Outlander]

Zeke, I would love to follow your project. Why not post here as well? I recall reading an article that said that the very first Workmate pegs were not plastic but magnesium! Can that be right?

Thank you all again.

Andy

I agree, mine got wet. I will need to replace the jaws soon. This might get me started.

 

[rick carpenter]

"The Workbench Book" by Scott Landis has an entire chapter devoted to the history of Ron Hickman inventing the Workmate. History of it, not cool stuff to do with/to it. Good reading.

 

[toolfanatic]

Sorry I'm a little late coming to this but I've only just finished upgrading my own workmate this week. I used a good quality hardwood ply off-cut I had lying around, 18mm or 3/4" thick, doubling up the jaw thickness where the jaws meet. I formed the V groove on the horizontal edges with a router mounted in a table. Vertical V is chopped out with a chisel. All holes were cut with a mix of brad point bit and forstener bits. I made the replacement jaws about 2" longer to give better overhang if clamping a door or sheet materials on edge. A mix of boiled linseed oil, white spirit and polyurethane varnish was wiped on with a sponge and waxed up when dry. One of the original rubber feet was missing so I modified the steel foot to make it adjustable, cutting it back and welding a nut on. A few of the original spot welds had failed so these were tack welded also. I should get another 10 years out of this workmate.

 

[GreyOwl]

I would think that if you make the jaw edges double thick, you could cut the horizontal V easier on the table saw before the pieces are glued together. I am going to have to replace mine soon and will be giving this method a try.
Of course this implies you already have a table saw, but if not it is a good excuse to buy MORE TOOLS!!

 

[toolfanatic]

I would think that if you make the jaw edges double thick, you could cut the horizontal V easier on the table saw before the pieces are glued together.

That's effectively what I did- I chamfered both pieces using a standard 45 degree chamfer bit before gluing together. This could also be done on a table saw or simplly hand plane the required profile on the long edges.

 

[darkk]

Ash is cheap and as hard as any oak you will find...

 

[JBB2]

Thanks for all the comments here. I'd like to replace the jaws on my Workmate, too; the particle board originals are broken and swollen from moisture. The hardwood or even plywood options are better, but if you want replacement jaws a set can be had from toolsdirect.com for $20:

http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/cgi-bin/noframes.cgi/blackdecker/WM225_TYPE_4

 

[abstamaria]

Done!

Just to show I have been working. Here is my old friend with a new top made of local wood. I could not find the right size hole saw, so the pegs are a bit loose, but seem to work well.

I won't keep this in the shed now, but will hang it up on the garage wall.

Happy holidays to all!

Andy

 

[zuk123]

Nicely done Andy, and clearly up to your usual standard.

Your space is an inspiration, and you gentility is a soothing balm...

zuk

 

[abstamaria]

Many thanks, Zuk. My best for the New Year,

Andy