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manual pole saw

PoorOwner

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what is your thought on this? manual pruning saw that can extend up to around 30'.

http://www.americantreeservicesupply.com/product/ATSS200913PSS30?gclid=CL7xmtD8y7cCFWlp7AodWGMAyw

Thinking of removing this tree myself, it should be able to reach over half way up
8943812033_19e5f95c19_o.jpg
 
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oilfieldtrash4

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I used the Harbor freight electric pole saw and was thoroughly impressed. Also used the 25% off coupon and it was around $60 out the door. I have a big *** Stihl I use as my main saw so I'm not easily impressed with low quality chainsaws. This pole saw paid itself off the first time I trimmed my trees. An extension ladder and the pole saw and there wasn't much I couldn't trim.
http://www.harborfreight.com/15-hp-electric-pole-saw-68862.html
 

DIC

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I attached a bow saw to a stick of 2" PVC with hose clamps...It worked for me
 
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PoorOwner

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I am thinking of getting the HF pole chainsaw also, I am going to get rid of the low, thicker branches with it.. but the chainsaw doesn't reach that high.

I have hard hat ready, how do you use an extension ladder, do you use a strap to secure it to the trunk?
 

oilfieldtrash4

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I am thinking of getting the HF pole chainsaw also, I am going to get rid of the low, thicker branches with it.. but the chainsaw doesn't reach that high.

I have hard hat ready, how do you use an extension ladder, do you use a strap to secure it to the trunk?

I just laid it on the thickest branch I could and found level ground for the feet to rest. Not saying it's the safest approach but the job got done. :beer:
 

pmiranda

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A manual saw on the trunk of a tree? Bring music or a book on tape to listen to while you do that :) I think this is a perfect time for a single-use HF power tool.
 

Stuart in MN

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My dad had a manual pole saw when I was a kid, it worked fine for trimming branches but I wouldn't want to use it to cut a whole tree down.
 

signcrafter

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I have a fiskars pole saw that goes about 16 feet. I'm sure the one you linked to is way better but even at 16 feet mine is wobbly and hard to put any pressure on while cutting. The blade is nice and cuts good but it still takes a lot of strokes to do a bigger branch.

What is your plan for taking this tree down? The pole saw will trim the branches off up to halfway off from what you said but how do you plan on dropping the trunk and top branches?
 
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PoorOwner

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At a certain height the trunk is about 4" so I plan to make a cut there

If I can get that to come down safely then the rest would be easier


I need a hand held chain saw tho for the lower cutting
So I am thinking of the Remington model since it detaches as a 10" handheld
 

kmacht

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I'm not a big fan of pole saws. You usually have to stand pretty close to underneath the branch you are cutting unless you have a very long pole. They also usually cut from the side instead of the top down on the branch so if you aren't carefully you will get half way through and the branch will start to bend causing your saw to get pinched in the cut and stuck.

What I like much better is a chainsaw on a rope.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AX849/?tag=atomicindus08-20

You toss them over the branch you want to cut with a weighted bag. One person holds one side of the rope and the someone holds the other. A little pulling back and forth between the two people and it cuts right through the branch. It cuts from the top down so no pinching and with a long enough rope you can stand well off to the side of the branch being cut.

Keith
 

signcrafter

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At a certain height the trunk is about 4" so I plan to make a cut there

If I can get that to come down safely then the rest would be easier


I need a hand held chain saw tho for the lower cutting
So I am thinking of the Remington model since it detaches as a 10" handheld

If that tree is 50-60 feet tall from what you say, you are going to have a hard time getting the top to fall using a pole saw from the ground, especially safely. I think I would feel more comfortable climbing the tree.
 
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Kevin54

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I'm going to assume that you haven't cut too many trees? You aren't going to take that out with a pruning saw. From what I see, it's a large spruce in front of other ones? It looks like a deck railing on this side of the picture. Can you drop the tree to the left without it hitting anything? You may be better off hiring someone to just go ahead and drop it for you. Two cuts and it's down. One cut if there isn't anything to the left or right.
 
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PoorOwner

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It just lawn to the front, what would the pro do? Can't get machines or truck through, probably a climbing guy?

I am definitely thinking of getting some estimates as well.. but I'm thinking it's going to be $700-$1000 in my market so it's not something I can budget for this year.

I am not sure what is with the $750 minimum for any kind of trade around here, $750 to polish 80 sq ft marble floor, $750 for a minimum fence job, $750 to change a shut off valve box for washing machine.. all because drywall needs to be cut? I'm forced to buy tools and do many jobs myself..

Thinking that I can prune off the lower limbs and work up from there with a ladder.. that is all, if stuck than call someone.. maybe asking a gardener instead of a arborist is the keyword here.
 
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nmk_61802

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I'm going to assume that you haven't cut too many trees? You aren't going to take that out with a pruning saw. From what I see, it's a large spruce in front of other ones? It looks like a deck railing on this side of the picture. Can you drop the tree to the left without it hitting anything? You may be better off hiring someone to just go ahead and drop it for you. Two cuts and it's down. One cut if there isn't anything to the left or right.

Yep, never prunned a tree prior to felling myself. I tie-off, notch then back-cut. Prun away with the chainsaw once on the ground.


http://www.husqvarna.com/us/support/working-with-chainsaws/directional-felling/

If I needed to top the tree first, I would let a pro with a bucket truck handle it or at least rent a JLG to help.
 

NY_treeguy

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As a professional, I need to say that you are in over your head. Call an arborist or 2 and get a price. Based on how much room there is to work, you should have no problem getting an insured company to take care of this for under $1000.00. No ER co-payment, no broken deck, no broken neck.

We charge what we do for a reason, we know how to do these things safely.

FWIW, Fiberglass pole saws are the way to go.

Angelo

ISA Certified Arborist
 

Automatic Slim

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What kind of tree?

I often think about taking the tree to the mill for future projects. If it is the Eucalyptus Tree, lots of uses for outdoor furnitire and it's property value.

Siding, furniture, landscaping, whatever. If you cut it or have someone cut it, tell them the dimensions you want + a couple xtra inches for sloppy. 16ft boards, 2" thick are aweful nice to have around and those "juniper" trees can have an outstanding rot rate.

.....or a couple of big fat beams.

$0.02
 

signcrafter

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Point taken, I'll save up and get a pro to do it.

I'm not sure if you would save any money or not but it might be cheaper if you had a pro just drop the tree and you took it from there. Cutting it up on the ground and getting rid of the wood yourself. Just an option to ask that might save a few bucks.
 

pattenp

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Do you have any friends that have cut down a tree before? If there is clear room for it to fall toward the direction that the picture was taken I'd put a pull rope on it, notch the side to the fall and cut from the back and take down the whole tree. But that's me because I have quite a few notches in my chainsaw handle for some whopper 24" to 30" oaks. Be safe and know your limits.
 

firecracker

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We had a 30foot Cedrus near the gateway, I mentioned to my nabour that I would have to chop the top 7ish foot off, when we came back from a little trip it was done :eyecrazy: a bit hacked but done. I went up a ladder and sorted that.:willy_nil
 
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