Marking devices

[VW_Buggsy]

A grease pencil (AKA "China Marker" or "Wax Pencil") is very handy in many situations. It wipes off of any hard surface.

I carry one on my motorcycle and use it to write my intended route on my tank when I'm navigating the old-fashioned way, so I don't have to pull out a map at every intersection. It also works on windshields.

That's a smart idea. I've used dry-erase to mark oil change mileage on the window, before the cars started to track that on their on-board computer and now only on my old Volkswagens. On my trailer I just write the date when I re-pack the bearings on it next to the wheel in sharpie, because looks aren't much of a deal on my trailer.

When I started this thread I thought I was asking about something too trivial to be of any real concern to anyone and was kind of afraid I'd get laughed at. I'm surprised to see so much activity and thought on the subject!

Then again as I think on it, putting marks on stuff is probably one of the more universal and frequent activities that applies to any garage or shop related activity whether it's wood-working, metal working and fab, mechanical, electrical, etc. it all involves some kind of reference marks.

Anyway I'm learning some neat new methods and products to try so THANKS!

 

[1cargarage]

Left to Right:

Wood > Metal > Anything Dry > Anything > Multiple Choice Exams

Left to Right:

• Incra 0.5mm pencil (for Incra marking gauges)
• Pentel 0.9mm pencil (for getting closer than a framing pencil can)
• Generic framing pencil
• Crown right hand marking knife
• Crown awl
• Starrett 18-AA auto punch (I use mainly for wood)
• Starrett 819 self-centering auto punch (for hardware)
• Starrett 18-C auto punch
• Starrett 70B hardened steel pocket scriber
• Starrett 70AX tungsten carbide pocket scriber
• Generic china markers (~easily wiped off)
• Black Sharpie
• Silver (opaque) Sharpie
• Milwaukee inkzall
• Molotow 127HS 2mm acrylic paint marker
• Krink K-42 paint marker (these are awesome)
• Pencil #2
• Top: Fastcap long nose marker (for tracing / template making)

Take your pick.

The End

 

[FullRaceMerc]

I use a paint pen that came from a fabric store. Going with the wife paid off.

The tip is some sort of a wicking material where you press in on the tip prior to using the pen. It opens some sort of valve & the tip becomes saturated with paint. When it starts to dry out pump the tip in & reload it.

Something like one of these

 

[1cargarage]

I use a paint pen that came from a fabric store. Going with the wife paid off.

The tip is some sort of a wicking material where you press in on the tip prior to using the pen. It opens some sort of valve & the tip becomes saturated with paint. When it starts to dry out pump the tip in & reload it.

That's how the Molotow and Krink markers I have (above) work. They're awesome.

The Krink brand was started by a graffiti artist from NYC who couldn't find pens that worked how he wanted. I.e. stand up to cement, cracks, dirt, and all the other stuff in a city and be very bold and permanent. Because they're essentially graffiti markers, the ink is very permanent (not etch into glass permanent or anything) and the colors are very bright. They're what I use to mark my power tools.

 

[maintenancemike]

For metals, a tungsten carbide scribe and dykem, red or silver welders pencils, markzall, sharpie, paint pen.
Pencils are great for everything else.

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[ndr1968]

Steel & carbide scribes. Sharpies. Lately I've discovered and use quite a bit a Dura Ink 5.

It has an elongated tip that allows it to get into tight spots that other markers cannot reach. https://www.google.com/search?q=dur...hVIrlQKHVhPC7gQ_AUICCgD#imgrc=M_lk4j-qUR04rM:

 

[Climatecreator]

Looks like a template or pattern marker....there's one that has template on one side then regular on the other. Fast Cap brand.....they're awesome.



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