Masonite vs. t111 vs. ???

[JB740i]

They're putting the trusses on the house and detached garage today. Good stuff.

Was asked what material I want on the walls in the detached garage. I know I don't want drywall. It's 24x30x12.

Masonite and t111 were suggested to me today. Pros and cons of each?

What are the other names for these products and what specs should I be looking for when researching prices.

When looking at plywood, I get terms like BC AC ULX and then Fir and Pine woods. What would be the ideal thickness and type for walls and ceiling? I want to make sure I'm comparing apple to apples when I'm checking prices.

Variations on t111 don't pull up anything on the lowes website.

Thanks for your knowledge.

 

[Old Moparz]

I'm basing my thoughts on what I've seen over the years. Both the Masonite & T-111 seem very prone to moisture damage if you don't stay on top of them with painting, staining, or use of some other waterproofing. I'm not familiar with using Masonite as exterior sheathing, but I have used T-111 & it is constructed very much like plywood. It has the textured facing & sawcuts to resemble verticle siding.

If you're on a tight budget, the T-111 would be a decent choice as long as you protect it. The positive side is that you can always install other types of siding over it at a later date, like vinyl. On a related note, I recently saw a house I pass going to work everyday that has T-111 on it. The walls were swelled, buckled, & ruined, & a lot of it had to be replaced before they installed the vinyl over it. The scary part of T-111, is that it's both structural sheathing & siding, so you really have problems when it's damaged.

Here's a website with a brief description on the plywood grades:
http://woodworking.about.com/od/plywood/p/PlywoodGrades.htm

 

[JB740i]

Sorry, it's for the interior. The exterior will be hardyboard.

 

[mikester]

I have T111 up in my garage. Its the 3/8 cheap stuff from HD and its been up for 2 years. I havent painted it, just left it unfinished and so far its held up well. The one wall has been up a year longer and its a little yellowed but not bad. I not sorry that I used it.

 

[Kevin54]

Variations on t111 don't pull up anything on the lowes website.

It's T1-11 and not T-111 and almost any lumberyard goes by the same name. When I went to Lowes site it shows that most exterior ply is not sold at the local store which is a larger store in our area. You may have to go to a regular lumberyard if that is what you are looking for. Personally I have never seen anything wrong with drywall in a garage. As long as you're not tossing tools around you shouldn't have to worry about big holes. You fasten something to the wall, just make sure you hit a stud, same as in the house. I have a 28' x 36' drywalled garage and a 22' x 30' house garage and never accidently put a dent or hole in the wall. But anyways, it's a personal preference. Here is a little bit on T1-11 that may call it by some other name. http://www.protek-usa.com/PDF_Files/T1-11%20Siding%20Solutions.pdf

 

[beardking]

My concern with putting any of the materials up that you mentioned is fire control. Are you sure that your garage will meet code without the drywall? I completely understand wanting the functionality of the wood material rather than the drywall, but if you happen to have an issue with fire (we all hope not) in the future, the T1-11 will just be more fuel to add to it.

I know it would be more expensive, but have you considered putting 1/4" plywood on the studs and then installing drywall over that? Kind of the best of both worlds.

 

[kbs2244]

My favorite for inside garage wall for years has been 3/8 plywood around the bottom with ¼ peg board with the ¼ inch holes above it.
You sure do not need Fir plywood. It would be expensive.
The different grades refer to the smoothness of the surface sanding and if there are any patches (the little football shaped things). Smooth one side with patches is fine.
Get the white peg board and paint the plywood white before putting it up. It is a whole lot easier. If you are having this done, get the plywood delivered on Fri. You can paint it and it will dry over the WE. And they can install it on Mon.
If you wash you car inside go with a heavy coat of oil based paint, or you can get 3/8 thick plastic panels that are water proof. With either, put a cheap rubber baseboard around the bottom and caulk it.
If it is a detached building you won't need drywall for fire code.

 

[JB740i]

Thanks for the responses. The thought had crossed my mind about doing pegboard in the middle of the wall with plywood or whatever on the top and bottom (12' ceiling) but know that no one needs that much pegboard. I liked the idea on another thread of having a wire mesh powdercoated to use for hanging parts. However, I plan to insulate the walls and figure the mesh would still have to have a barrier between it and the insulation.

Okay, so my google-fu says that t1-11 is basically exterior grade plywood. That sounds fine to me.

Anyone prefer masonite?

 

[Sundowner]

keep in mind that T-111 costs about $24/sheet where plain masonite is about $7/sheet and prefinished gloss white masonite is about $12-ish. with a garage your size, you're talking 45-50 sheets of whatever you use.

were it me, I would (and did) use 7/16" OSB sheathing for the inside of my garage.
it cost me $6.44/sheet at Home Despot. but I will admit that the "look" is not for everyone.

 

[Old Moparz]

Okay, using it on the interior I would only go with drywall/sheetrock for the fire rating. Drywall is less money than the other materials too. If you build by the rules & have a permit, the local fire codes may not allow you to put up combustible materials. If that's the case & you ever have a fire your insurance company has an excuse not to pay you. Here's a thread on what can happen when you have combustible building materials directly exposed to a fire.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18870

If you want the convenience of a sturdy wall or peg board, just install it over the drywall.

 

[dcjredline]

I have started the other walls in my attached garage in OSB also. I like the look of it. The painting was not much different than painting a regular wall just use a thicker NAP. IT is less expensive than some and a bit stronger than other choices.

 

[NSXSOON]

I used 2'X4' sheets of Durarock (cement board) for the bottom course and then sheet rock from there up. The Durarock won't wick up water like sheet rock, is fireproof and the same thickness. I used stucco compound as the joint filler on the Durarock for the same reasons and now I don't have to worry about hosing out the garage when needed. Well worth the few extra bucks.

 

[FunfDreisig]

Amazingly enough I managed to live 22 years in a wood frame house with a high end version of T1-11* as all of the exterior siding and most of the interior walls without burning it down Not only that my barn was also wood frame with the same "T1-11" siding. The house and barn had been designed/built by an architect for himself. It was a class act. He had hidden every seam so you never really new it wasn't vertical siding. I loved it!

Funf Dreisig

* the "T1-11" was actually 3/4 in ply wood grooved 4" OC with a smooth surface and hard edges on the groves.

 

[Matti]

Is the fire rating requirement is optional as the garage is not a residence? I have wondered about how economical drywall really is once you consider tape, corner beads, mud, primer and paint let alone labor. Pegboard is okay but I don't want 300+ sq feet of it. OSB is cheap but it is not for everybody. I am still going to investigate some light metal sheeting with a mild corrugation perhaps. An acquaintance of mine said he drywalled and then someone came in and did a one pass tape job then sprayed some kind of light textured coating and then painted it. That I have to look at.

 

[PurdueSD]

what exactly is masonite sheeting? Is it a plastic venere, like cheap panelling?

Sorry just curious...

 

[FunfDreisig]

what exactly is masonite sheeting? Is it a plastic venere, like cheap panelling?

Sorry just curious...

Masonite was the original "pressed wood" paneling. It is traditionally dark brown, usually about 1/4' - 3/8" thick and slick on one side. The other side is sort of a waffle pattern.

OBTW when it has holes punched in it on a regular grid it is called "peg board"

Funf Dreisig

 

[Sundowner]

Amazingly enough I managed to live 22 years in a wood frame house with a high end version of T1-11* as all of the exterior siding and most of the interior walls without burning it down Not only that my barn was also wood frame with the same "T1-11" siding. The house and barn had been designed/built by an architect for himself. It was a class act. He had hidden every seam so you never really new it wasn't vertical siding. I loved it!

Funf Dreisig

* the "T1-11" was actually 3/4 in ply wood grooved 4" OC with a smooth surface and hard edges on the groves.

T-111 is not bad stuff. Some of the newer versions of it like Smartside actually come with 20-30 year warranties.

a lot of people just don't *get* that some building materials are as good or better than other building materials, even though they are cheaper. Like granite countertops. pretty, but not as durable as good quality formica!

 

[beardking]

Amazingly enough I managed to live 22 years in a wood frame house with a high end version of T1-11* as all of the exterior siding and most of the interior walls without burning it down Not only that my barn was also wood frame with the same "T1-11" siding. The house and barn had been designed/built by an architect for himself. It was a class act. He had hidden every seam so you never really new it wasn't vertical siding. I loved it!

Funf Dreisig

* the "T1-11" was actually 3/4 in ply wood grooved 4" OC with a smooth surface and hard edges on the groves.

Agreed, this happens all the time and I completely understand the concept behind going this way. One important consideration though is the amount of flammable liquids that are kept in a garage and the number of times that those flammable liquids are (or can be) exposed to ignition sources. The thread that was linked to is a prime example. It's not going to happen to everyone that puts combustible materials in a garage, but it's a good possibility.

BTW: I'd like to see the code book that the architect who built the house/barn used. I know of no code book that would allow the use of T1-11 as an interior finish without at least being backed up by sheetrock. I could be missing it since I'm used to commercial projects rather than residential though.

 

[FunfDreisig]

...BTW: I'd like to see the code book that the architect who built the house/barn used. I know of no code book that would allow the use of T1-11 as an interior finish without at least being backed up by sheetrock. I could be missing it since I'm used to commercial projects rather than residential though.

I don't know and never really thought about it. It was a modest pier and beam 2,400sqft 3 bedroom 2 bath wood frame house and 2000sqft barn. When he built them the area was "in the country". The only rooms with sheet rock were two bedrooms and the two baths. The other rooms had t1-11 on the walls and vaulted ceilings (on top of exposed rafters). It was an ode to wood -- think East Texas meets Frank Loyd Wright

Funf Dreisig

 

[Sundowner]

BTW: I'd like to see the code book that the architect who built the house/barn used. I know of no code book that would allow the use of T1-11 as an interior finish without at least being backed up by sheetrock. I could be missing it since I'm used to commercial projects rather than residential though.

I couldn't tell you what the code is now, but this type of residential construction was EXTREMELY common in 70's and 80's. It's usually seen as the thin fake wood panelling over bare studs for interior walls.

 

[April]

Masonite was the original "pressed wood" paneling. It is traditionally dark brown, usually about 1/4' - 3/8" thick and slick on one side. The other side is sort of a waffle pattern.

OBTW when it has holes punched in it on a regular grid it is called "peg board"

Funf Dreisig

Yeah, and it's a total PITA and a POS as well. The exterior of the porch on our house was done with Masonite when I bought it, and no amount of painting could keep up with the foot traffic that slowly turned it into mush. It makes for a really really lousy exterior; it's no wonder the makers of it got sued into oblivion.

 

[ZRX61]

I did the interior of my (20x50ft) garage with T1-1 about 10 years back. It looks kinda like "Norway" in there..

 

[JB740i]

I did the interior of my (20x50ft) garage with T1-1 about 10 years back. It looks kinda like "Norway" in there..

How's that? Got a picture?

 

[moogoob]

I couldn't tell you what the code is now, but this type of residential construction was EXTREMELY common in 70's and 80's. It's usually seen as the thin fake wood panelling over bare studs for interior walls.

60's too. the bottom of my bi-level is like that...

 

[JB740i]

Looks like masonite is pretty much disliked by most. So it'll be the t1-11 or OSB. And maybe a couple sheets of that metallic faced pegboard with one sheet on either side of a corner. I think that might look good and give enough. Maybe one more sheet of pegboard between the window and man door.

I drew out how I wanted my receptacles and lights last night. I'll try and post them up on another thread.

 

[yard_dawg]

I used the T1-11 on the bottom 4' of my shop. I then used drywall and peg board above it. It ahs been very good so far, you can ding and knock it with no worry. Also I did paint mine to mtach the rest of the shop.

 

[rodwms]

Thank you for inviting me to post!
I am new to woodworking. I'm newly retired and setting up a workshop in my garage. I have placed Roxul Safe 'n Sound between the studs to my neighbors. I now looking at threads about wall treatments other than drywall.
Thanks for the welcome.
Rod

 

[bobabuee]

osb, followed by klitz oil base coat followed by latex color of choice looks great can hang anything anywhere. drywall ***** for a garage gets banged up to easily.

you can add 24 inches corrugated metal at bottom for nice look.