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masonite?

goldie lox

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i am building a room inside my garage and it has osb on the walls. i was gonna just drywall them but i was told i should use masonite. whats your thoughts. i would want it seamless and painted. can i just mud it like drywall
if you have any in your garage post up a pic for me
 
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Jess

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Oct 22, 2006
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Vancouver Island, BC Canada
I have used the tempered variety for small projects but wonder if it will buckle when spanned over 16" stud centres and finished with drywall filler or hardwall plaster. I have seen plywood taped, filled and skim coated to the point that I thought it was palster or drywall. If you can get 1/4" tempered Masonite type panels, it might work as an inexpensive interior finish. You would want it to be dry with reasonable low humidity or it will buckle...
 

Cyberbear

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Based on my personal experience, Masonite is a great product but has it's limitations and have never seen or heard of it being used for the type of wall covering you mentioned.
Properly applied drywall is what I'd use, and have used, with no problems and it's fire resistant.
 

kbs2244

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I would guess that they are talking about the white finished Masonite sold as bathroom paneling.
It is both damp proof prefinished and thicker to be used in 16 inch stud placing.
 

K'ledgeBldr

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i am building a room inside my garage and it has osb on the walls. i was gonna just drywall them but i was told i should use masonite. whats your thoughts. i would want it seamless and painted. can i just mud it like drywall
if you have any in your garage post up a pic for me

Well, I'm a bit confused. You're "building" a room but the walls "have" OSB. So, if the walls are sheaved, why do you want to add additional covering?

Why didn't you just use drywall to begin with?

As for the Masonite- there's hardboard and there's tempered hardboard. Neither of which are good stand alone wall coverings (as in just attached to studs versus being attached to walls that are covered with drywall first)in unconditioned spaces. If you want to see hardboard in garages look no further than pegboard.
 

JohnK007

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Downers Grove, IL
I used Masonite once for a couple walls in a room I built in the basement. It was a pain in the *** to nail, looked like **** when I switched to drywall screws, cut edges came out like ****, and was a ***** to paint. That room thankfully was taken out long ago. No, I don't recommend Masonite. Just prime and paint the OSB
 

Shiftless

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East Bay SFO
Here is my opinion. Masonite pegboard, YES. Masonite sacrificial topper layer on a thick wooden workbench for woodworking, YES. Masonite on walls, NO
 

wssix99

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Keep the OSB and overlay it with Drywall. You'll get the best of both worlds: A smooth finish on top with a wood underlayment that you can screw/attach in to anywhere you want. Drywall will also give you fire resistance.

Masonite wouldn't give you the fire resistance benefit, would be harder to finish, and I expect would cost a lot more.
 

James-W

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If you have OSB on the walls then just sand down the seams and put drywall compound on the OSB. It will fill in all the cracks and you won't see the wood chips. You MIGHT need two coats of drywall compound. You may want to texture the walls too. Once that is done and has dried thoroughly, prime the walls with a good primer and then paint with a good quality paint. It will look exactly like drywall.
 

southalabama

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Back in early 80's or so there was a class action suit involving Masonite. Dad had just built a two car garage with attached shop. Memory serves it delaminated. Since it was lap siding he pulled it off and nailed it backup flat and then put vinyl siding over it. I was a kid then and kept asking why. His answer was that it would provide some insulation. I didn't buy it then and not sure I buy it now but I did as I was told.

Just do the drywall and you can easily patch it if need be. Masonite would be a pain to tape and patch holes.
 
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JimVonBaden

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Based on my personal experience, Masonite is a great product but has it's limitations and have never seen or heard of it being used for the type of wall covering you mentioned.
Properly applied drywall is what I'd use, and have used, with no problems and it's fire resistant.

:thumbup:
 

JimVonBaden

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If you have OSB on the walls then just sand down the seams and put drywall compound on the OSB. It will fill in all the cracks and you won't see the wood chips. You MIGHT need two coats of drywall compound. You may want to texture the walls too. Once that is done and has dried thoroughly, prime the walls with a good primer and then paint with a good quality paint. It will look exactly like drywall.

That sounds like a hell of a lot more work than just adding drywall over top, and with much iffier looks!
 

James-W

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That sounds like a hell of a lot more work than just adding drywall over top, and with much iffier looks!
I don't see why it is more work. If you put drywall over the OSB you still need to tape the seams, mud the seams, sand the seams when dry and do a second coat followed by more sanding. Then you need to seal the drywall, prime and then paint.

If you doubt what I said, try it for yourself. Take a piece of OSB that's maybe 3ft by 3ft and do what I said above. You will see how easy it is and how good it looks when you are done.
 

Colin Len

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Long Beach CA
Eventually I plan to put up OSB on one wall of my garage (since I need to pull down the 1/4" drywall that's there now anyway) and was planning to compromise on the finishing:
- Sand the seams and any rough spots
- Caulk the seams & screw holes (maybe use drywall mud if needed in some areas)
- Mix up some really thin drywall mud and apply it to the OSB with a nap roller to both fill the surface and provide an even texture
- Prime
- Paint

I HATE sanding/finishing drywall so I planned on using the above method to reduce that work and hopefully end up with something better than painted OSB and not as perfect as drywall on top but a lot less work (at least for a non-drywall-pro like me). I used this roll on texture technique recently on 2 drywall walls in my garage and it turned out great. Not perfect but a 100x better than if I would have just painted straight over the drywall which was not textured and had a really bad tape job.
 

Crusarius

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Upstate NY
Nobody has mentioned the fastener issue with any hardboard. unless you predrill every hole you will get raised material around the fasteners. it will look terrible and not be able to be finished smoothly.

Hardboard is great for work surfaces. Terrible for wall covering. Plus the nature of the material will cause echos like you wouldn't believe.
 

NORTON'S SHOP

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Went to Menards a couple months back needing a sheet of 1/8 Masonite. Was met by an "associate" asking "can I help you sir." Said I needed a sheet of Masonite. Was given a blank stare, followed by "I don't know what that is." I said "follow me." Took him to the Masonite department, showed him what it was and he said "Oh! smoothboard." Sure enough, that's what it said on the UPC label.

I'm getting old.
 

kbs2244

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Masonite is a brand name.
A lookalike would be smooth board.

I kind of like the wallpaper idea.
But I would use a vinyl
 

wssix99

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kbs2244

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You can try

https://billboardtarps.com/

They do say they want the printed side down when used as tarps, so I do not know about being able to pick and chose a subject.

But nothing ventured, nothing gained.
 
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