master heater / shop heater help

[sweetk30]

I have a old master instant heater deluxe atomaster .

model # b50 deluxe
spec # 2992g20-1
ser # 220193
50,000 btu spec

looks to be from late 60's to early 70's for the vintage.

the unit was taken all apart and cleaned out the tank and dust / dirt . when I got it there was no spark . the unit had been sitting for some time. but the fuel does spray out with the fan on after pluged in .

I traced down to the coil/transformer not sparking . so new replacement model of that and a plug was ordered. I also got a optical eye cause the wiring was chewed at some point by a mouse and ready to be bare open.

I found this info on desa heater web site. http://www.desatech.com/manuals/Construction Heaters/00000278.pdf

I will admit I am not the best at wiring diagrams.

so I know the fan relay works as it turns on . so tis should rule out that for the no fire .

the safety button on the back is not popped and it powers up .

new plug / grounded body of coil to body of unit at ground wire from wall plug / new transformer wired in best I could figure out .

I did white to white and old black to new red.

I got a france 102482-01 coil/transformer unit .

the unit will still not fire up . what could I be missing or be bad ?

anyway to easy upgrade the guts inside on the wiring relays and switches ?

I know just buy new . . . . but it was a unit my dad got years ago . its old retro cool . and this season in the north east good luck with finding 1 and or fair price with the winter we are having .

pic #1 basic of the unit.
pic #2 relay for fan by tracing the wires down .
pic #3 relay for optical eye I think .
pic #4 old coil/transformer.
pic #5 new coil/transformer.

 

[racin4ds]

These things are like engines, verify you have fuel first, then spark! If you have both then it has to be air supply, they must have a proper functioning air pump and be able to maintain at least the min spec'd PSI

 

[BigNuge]

I had almost the same one from my dad (it was all white, said Atom Master on it like yours).

Those units operate just like a domestic oil burner. The fan motor also spins the fuel pump (domestic techs call it the fuel unit). This pump has to be spinning strong to make 100PSI+ pressure to properly atomize the fuel for clean lighting & burning. Also, the nozzle has to be clean and open so the fuel can pass through it and create the proper spray pattern. A dirty/worn nozzle with a bad pattern can spray directly on the electrodes (or not at all) and prevent them from sparking properly, in turn preventing lighting. And then there are the electrodes themselves. If the porcelain is cracked then they can be shorting out before they produce a strong hot spark at the nozzle, their position in relation to the nozzle is also important.

Its not too difficult, but it can be tricky to get right. In the end, these older units burn dirtier, stink the place up, and use more fuel than the newer ones. As nostalgic as I am I finally tossed the old mans dead rig and bought a new one....so much nicer!! Oh, and very reliable!

 

[sweetk30]

fresh tank white NON dye kero .

full cloud of fuel air out the end .

I think wiring problem . this what I realy need help with .

 

[BigNuge]

There isn't much in the way of wiring to go wrong. The fan & transformer start & run together...

If you have a fuel vapor cloud then it should light off (providing the electrodes are positioned correctly and are actually sparking).


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[xtremek]

Mine would spray, but not light up. It ended up being the gasket on the air pump. I couldn't get enough air pressure. It says 5.5psi and I could only get 4. Fix gasket leak and I'm rocking.