Material for Workbench Top

[cls89]

Looking to build a new workbench soon. It will be mainly used for Woodworking and Automotive / Mechanic work. I’m set on the design I just need help picking an appropriate material for the top.

I would probably use plywood, but the problem is a 4x8 sheet is $60. I’d like the top to be thick which would mean two sheets glued together which would be pretty expensive.

I have some leftover particle board I could use. My concern is durability. If I protect the top and bottom with hardboard will it hold up? If not what are some good affordable alternatives?


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[didit]

I consider my bench top a surface that can expect to be beat on, welded on, used as a clamping surface for tooling and hundreds of other uses. I stick welded together a very heavy duty bench with a re-enforced 1/4" steel plate top. I have gone through several sacrificial, removable, plywood tops that are on top of the bench over the last 40 years but the bench is the same as the day I built it. Simple design, 3 drawers with a shelf below. 4" vise and upper steel shelves 30" above the back half. If I was to do it again, it would be the same.
I do have several other work surfaces for doing other jobs, One that I find handy is the all wood heavy duty work table I keep out side the garage, a rolling set of scaffolding and a cast iron framed picnic table that takes 4 guys to move. I guess the theme here is "heavy duty".

 

[kaymccampbell]

My benches have 1/4" steel, melamine over 3/4" MDF, and 2-1/4" plywood tops. They serve different purposes.
Right now, Home Depot has some $45 3/4" AB with a B core. It's not with the rest of the sheet goods. I found it by accident.

 

[Ron_J]

I used oak flooring. I didn't finish it, other than danish oil. I can just sand it back down if I decide to have it look like new again.

But, I also have a metal top bench for welding. So depending on your use, you may want a metal top.

 

[cls89]

I used oak flooring. I didn't finish it, other than danish oil. I can just sand it back down if I decide to have it look like new again.

But, I also have a metal top bench for welding. So depending on your use, you may want a metal top.

I don’t plan on doing any welding. The metal top would be nice for automotive applications. Things like motor oil and grease would clean nicely. Problem is metal wouldn’t be useful for woodworking. Don’t have space for two workbenches.


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[JAYoung]

I used laminate flooring from ReStore to re-top my dinged and stained 80-year-old workbench. The stuff is tough, spill resistant and easy and cheap to replace once I ding it up again.

 

[Gunfixr]

I haven't yet put a bench in where I am now, but it will likely be much like the one I built in my last shop. Framed with either 2x6 or 2x8s, the back side anchored to the wall studs, as was the ends (ran the length of one wall), the front supported by 4x4 posts every 4ft. A crossmember at every post. Topped with 2x6s. I had a piece of 1/8" thick rubber attached over a section for wet or small parts work. Almost 20yrs, it had scars but was as serviceable as when I built it.
Then, I welded on a small portable surface I could set on the bench. Now, I have a metal topped table.

 

[yeldogt]

I typically use butcher block now --- as I have a source. But -- any dimensional lumber (2x) can be used to make a nice strong top. Cover with masonite or thin plywood if you want something smooth. 2x6 can normally be had straight and flat and make a nice base. If you are in an area of the country with SYP ... thats a great material for the whole thing

There are workbenches ....and then there are workbenches. You want something sturdy and with some mass if you are going to be banging and clamping on it.

Have various materials I use as wear surfaces. Masonite/ heavy art cardboard/ rubber drawer liner. Depending on what I am doing.

If I'm working on one of my old cars I always toss something under the part as I'm working on it for example. Heavy cardboard is nice when working on a dirty part

 

[sz0k30]

The bench I have in my basement utility room is a 1-1/2" solid core door I had with a Formica top glued to it. That one doesn't get used too much. The one in my pole barn has a top made of oak 2x8's. I've been beating and spilling on that one for a lot of years.

And NEVER use particle board.

 

[Throughfaith323]

My concern is durability. If I protect the top and bottom with hardboard will it hold up?

I love using hardboard (the 1/8 thick brown stuff). It’s great because it’s smooth, hard, and cheap ($11 for 4x8). IMO any top, unless super durable and cleanable, should be sacrificial and easily replaceable. I would just recess it slightly to protect the edges; that or finish the edges with some good tape or something like that as a boarder.

I’ve also considered using Formica if you can source some cheap. Could prob get a nice looking print too to go with the garage/shop.

 

[dcg9381]

I've seen dimensional lumber used too, coated, with great results. I've got some scrap 1-1/4" OSB used for sub-floor around here... I'd be looking on nextdoor / facebook for something cheap.

The other thing that I've seen used is an old door (solid core). You can level it with epoxy (or something similar) - even a steel plate if that's your thing.

 

[ooba tooba]

A nice granite remnant from a countertop shop can be cut to size cheap and easy. Excellent flat and durable, stain, scratch and fireproof.

 

[Rorin67]

Butcher block here - takes a beating and still looks really nice. Ditto the use of cardboard for some projects.

 

[Black300zx]

I don’t plan on doing any welding. The metal top would be nice for automotive applications. Things like motor oil and grease would clean nicely. Problem is metal wouldn’t be useful for woodworking. Don’t have space for two workbenches.


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What depth are you planning for your bench?? Mine is doubled up 3/4 oak plywood 8' x 22" deep with a 4" backsplash. I had HD make two 22" rips on their panel saw which left the 4" backsplash strip. $60 for a benchtop isn't bad unless you were wanting a full 4ft depth

I threw some leftover dark stain on it and then three coats of oil based poly. I used it for auto, woodwork, and just about anything else I need. Works well. Cleans up well.

 

[Forgottonia]

I used 3/4 in plywood built on a sturdy 2x6 frame. I finished the top with polyurethane. I've built two other workbenches like this in the past. They held up just fine.

 

[Throughfaith323]

You might even want to consider buying a workbench. With the price of wood right now, a workbench from the store with a steel frame may be your answer. Even if you have to modify it slightly to make the top bigger.

 

[dcg9381]

A nice granite remnant from a countertop shop can be cut to size cheap and easy. Excellent flat and durable, stain, scratch and fireproof.

I like this idea too, they're often cheap and you could use two pieces for this purpose - easier to find, just ask the granite shop to cut them for you.

 

[CraigStu]

Luxury vinyl tile. There are a million colors and thicknesses. Go to Lowes, HD and look at the small samples. They generally are used as a floating floor so they interlock w/ each other extremely well.

 

[Jackfre]

Christopher Schwartz from Lost Arts Press has a good book out on building a woodworking bench out of about any old lumber. If you made a nice woodworking bench I’d make a 1/4” tempered hardboard piece that could drop onto it when you are fixin’ to make a mess. My best bench right now is 3 pieces of 3/4” plywood on a steel base. BLO for the finish.

 

[2baditsnotachev]

I've used really thick mdf for years and it's actually held up great. I'm currently building a new workbench thats getting a 3/8" steel top, but I'll be keeping the old one for cutting and drilling on.

 

[John Timmins]

Lumber liquidators...the flooring place. Look at that maple counter tops. You can't buy the wood and make one for that price. Also on Craigslist under materials, look for lengths of bowling alley lane. A 10 foot length is $300. Split it with a friend.

 

[dcg9381]

HD had butcher block tops designed for counters at a reasonable price... Well, 12 months ago...

 

[b-boy]

I typically use butcher block now --- as I have a source. But -- any dimensional lumber (2x) can be used to make a nice strong top. Cover with masonite or thin plywood if you want something smooth. 2x6 can normally be had straight and flat and make a nice base. If you are in an area of the country with SYP ... thats a great material for the whole thing

If I'm working on one of my old cars I always toss something under the part as I'm working on it for example. Heavy cardboard is nice when working on a dirty part

I bought several Lowes 8' Baltic Birch butcher block countertops for ~$200 each. Nice and thick, and pretty tough. Easy to replace if needed.

I use cardboard, or cutup sheets of plastic tarp to protect them when needed.

 

[tool_scrounge]

I picked up some unused Ikea butcher block tops (counter tops?) at a garage sale for $20 each. They did have a little warp, though I am not sure if they were that way from Ikea or from how the previous owner stored them. Overall they have worked out well.

 

[Dagny]

white oak 2x12s

 

[Jazz1]

Used scraps of 1/2” plywood doubled up to build workbench.. all left over material from garage build. Varnished and looked great for a year at which point I topped with 3/16” steel left over from another project.

 

[PCO6]

My main bench is based on a pallet rack with 2"x10" lumber on top and then covered by a sheet of 1/8" steel. It has a 4" back splash up at the back and a 4" lip down at the front.

 

[gtae07]

3/4 or 1 inch MDF, with a sacrificial layer of white wallboard on top.

 

[Hank11]

I'd buy one sheet of 3/4" MDO, cut in half lengthwise and then sandwich the particle board you have in the middle of the two pieces of MDO. Use plenty of wood glue, spread evenly. Let dry, even up the edges and get to work on your new bench.

MDO is used for concrete forms and outdoor signs. Its tough stuff with dense cores and a layer of resin impregnated paper on one or both sides. You only need one sided.

The other way is to buy some southern yellow pine 2X4s (or some hardwood) and glue them up face to face. Rip them first to get the eased edge off. Then belt sand or take to a millwork shop and have them run through a big planer or sander.

I've made bench tops both ways and prefer the solid wood, but it might cost more to do that.

 

[chuck356]

I have been using the 1/4" tempered hardboard stuff for my workbench tops since I built my first one in 1985, it is still going strong and have two more just like it.

 

[Cword]

Salvage solid core doors from commercial buildings work well

 

[Always_Thinkin]

I am in the same situation needing a new workbench top. I am looking for a solid core commercial door. Lowes has a solid core door (1.75" thick) for $75. However i think it has pressed together wood chips for the core...may not hold up as long...

 

[Killer95Stang]

I used office furniture (think cubicle) desk tops. They are over an inch thick with laminate covering and the edging is usually a harder plastic type material. Very durable, easy to clean and not as hard as you think to find. A lot of companies went out of business and office furniture comes out of all of them.

 

[ckadams00]

I bought a 3/4" melamine 4x8 sheet and cut it lengthwise in half. Screwed the pieces together from the underside with drywall screws. Trimmed the edges with clear pine. Looked great and was heavy as hell. The melamine is a great surface to work on and resists spills. I also had pieces of hardboard and yoga mat cut that I used often depending on the work I was doing - hardboard is great for cutting on etc, and keeps your benchtop in good shape (and it's cheap) and the yoga mats are great for keeping things from getting scratched, rolling, keeping small parts from moving, etc.

 

[brownsmustang]

I use kitchen counter tops I pick up dirt cheap at restore or market place

 

[mbunimog]

Picked up at an auction work benches from an electronics manufacturer going out of business. People were there to buy the equipment and the office stuff and work benches were not bid on. So picked up 10 butcher block tables with electrical outlet strips and shelves drawers leg supports etc

 

[Jgaz]

I bought two 5’x5’ sheets of 3/4” baltic birch plywood.
Ripped them in half and glued the top four layers thick.
Edged the whole top with Maple. Working surface has stayed very flat.

Bench has held up very well for about 15 years.
The weight makes the bench stable for hand planning. The thickness makes it ez to set a holdfast.

The various epoxy patches are from different vise configurations I’ve tried and also jigs that I’ve screwed into the surface. And, not gonna lie, the occasional oops.

 

[thebmrust]

Craigslist.
Moving/farm/retirement sales.
1x fur strips glued together.
Lots of options: time and money determine the best one.

 

[matt_i]

I have a bench in my mind that's end-grain oak or maple on a steel tube frame & associated "pocket" for the wood. Something like 2x2 stock milled to size and then sawed off with a stop on a mitersaw. Not good for welding nor oily work but "wood" be a nice surface for many other projects.

That said bench surfaces and structures cost and if well done are good for a lifetime so the money is well-spent.

 

[mfa81]

anybody has any experience with the wood workbench top sold at grainger? https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Workbench-Top-3MKC7 not much more expensive than a butcher block from HD others suggested, not clear to me what exactly is the material or wood. they have other butcher block tops that are more expensive, but I'm not clear on what exactly is this "hardwood", is this a particle board with a hardwood surface?