Max Jax Anchor Installation

[cdsvt]

Hi All,

I'm looking for some anchor installation advice.

I've installed one set of PD-58 anchors already and they seem to work fine, but I am putting a second set in so I can have the option to install the lift in either bay of my garage.

The last set of anchors I put in were a bear to get set properly. I found that I couldn't get the full number of rotations out of all of the nuts on the setting tool on every anchor and I think almost every anchor maxxed out before the full number of turns.

I used the technique where you pound the anchor to depth using the install bolt, and then hold the bolt while rotating the nut (on top of a washer) to pull the anchors up to wedge them in without rotating the anchor.

So, I have all of the new holes drilled and am ready to put the new set of anchors in. Here's my question - is there any way to maker it easier to install the Wej-It PD-58 anchors?

Could I lubricate the threads (with grease?), lubricate between the nut and the washer to reduce friction, or any other technique to make it easier to get them set to spec?

Thanks in advance.

Charlie

 

[dmeadow]

Go with the epoxy anchors. Easier install and you have more confidence in the final result.

 

[rday78]

I went epoxy... much easier. well worth the $180

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

Don't put any grease on them- you'll just make it harder to set.

I had to set mine with a good sized sledge to the height needed, then used large wrenches to do the setting. Cheater pipe helped a lot.

If the insert spins, then you're wasting your time and might as well remove it if you can and drop in an epoxy version or drill larger for a larger fitting.

That said, I have read of wrapping the fitting with a rubber tape like on bicycle handlebars one layer deep to help prevent it from rotating long enough for the anchor to bite through the rubber and into the concrete. While I understand the idea, I didn't have any issues so I don't know how effective that would be.

 

[cdsvt]

Thanks, rotating isn't a problem, nor is pulling out. The anchors "bite" perfectly. It is just getting those three rotations of the setting nut that was a pain. At a certain point I just couldn't get it to tighten any more. The cheater pipe might make all the difference. I guess I just need to stop whining and do it.

I don't want to start with the epoxy set anchors, but I did drill through my 6" slab so if things go south I can pound them through and start fresh with Epoxy anchors. Plan B, so to speak.

 

[JakeKohl]

Thanks, rotating isn't a problem, nor is pulling out. The anchors "bite" perfectly. It is just getting those three rotations of the setting nut that was a pain. At a certain point I just couldn't get it to tighten any more. The cheater pipe might make all the difference. I guess I just need to stop whining and do it.

I don't want to start with the epoxy set anchors, but I did drill through my 6" slab so if things go south I can pound them through and start fresh with Epoxy anchors. Plan B, so to speak.

Are you changing out your setting bolt/hardware? The threads could be stretching/wearing causing the issues tightening.

 

[cdsvt]

Yes, I used a new setting nut/washer for each of the sets of 5. The 5 unit PD-58 anchor kits I purchased at Amazon each came with an "install tool" (5/8 bolt, nut and washer). I have two more sets of 5 with installation tools waiting to be used for this install.

I just ordered a new 5/16 combination wrench that I am going to cut off the open end and will use with a steel cheater bar. I am optimistic that this will do the trick. I'll report back after the install next weekend.

Thanks, everyone.

 

[cdsvt]

This set went in a lot easier than the last one. I cut off one end of a 15/16 combination wrench and used a ~3' pipe (was actually a pipe that came with a Fisher Minute Mount plow that I used to own, makes a great cheater bar). I also hit the threads of the install tools with a tiny bit of white lithium grease where the nut runs up and down for the 3 turns (to overcome some friction). No problems whatsoever, it was almost easy...

Thanks for the advice guys.

 

[sidwin]

has anyone noticed that epoxy anchors require 6.5 inches to depth?

and they are also out of stock and discontinued from wej-it.

I had 3 spin on me and i removed them and then put new ones back down and this time i coated the outside of them with epoxy and then some in the hole. hopefully they will hold. i'm worried they won't. one post all 5 went down fine and one post only 2.

thanks,
Sid

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

@sidwin:

You'll find you'll get better answers if you ask your question in only one thread instead of repeating it a half dozen times in different topics. That sort of behavior makes it look like your posting is done by a robot and may not get noticed- or if it does, it gets negative attention.

Now to answer your question, what was the depth of your concrete floor when you drilled it? Did you measure the holes after drilling? If you have an anchor spin, you'll need to fix that to be sure. Wej-it isn't the only anchor company around. Go to your FastenAll store and you'll find more options of what they have in stock. You may need to go to a larger size, or use the epoxy method.

 

[sidwin]

thanks dan.

concrete depth is 4.25 inches. seems like wej-it are the only guys that have the 7/8 hole epoxy anchor recessed. fastenal has a couple of the epoxy anchor and i was able to get them to order it for $21 a piece. I just noticed on the wej-it website they said that anchors needs to be on 6.5 in concrete. i wanted to know if anyone else check that when they were installing those.

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

thanks dan.

concrete depth is 4.25 inches. seems like wej-it are the only guys that have the 7/8 hole epoxy anchor recessed. fastenal has a couple of the epoxy anchor and i was able to get them to order it for $21 a piece. I just noticed on the wej-it website they said that anchors needs to be on 6.5 in concrete. i wanted to know if anyone else check that when they were installing those.

There's been some varying opinions on depth for the anchors for the Wej-its. Danmar is fine with the thinner concrete in most cases, but you may want to read up on the threads to see. Look for Gabe, the former representative for them before he left. His advice is the best since he knew the product so well.

 

[plain garage]

If you compare the epoxy and mechanical anchors side by side, it is clear the depth requirements are different to take full advantage of the holding capacity for each.

 

[sidwin]

so if i can't get a mechanical anchor to take at 4.25 inch concrete and the epoxy anchor recommends 6.5 inches of concrete what are my choices? would going to 1 in mechanical anchor help? i ordered some epoxy anchor and think i'll try that next. how long should i let them cure before testing?

thanks,
sid

 

[dmeadow]

so if i can't get a mechanical anchor to take at 4.25 inch concrete and the epoxy anchor recommends 6.5 inches of concrete what are my choices? would going to 1 in mechanical anchor help? i ordered some epoxy anchor and think i'll try that next. how long should i let them cure before testing?

thanks,
sid

The epoxy anchors will work fine at 4.25". The 6.5" depth is to get the full rated load, which is well in excess of what the mechanical anchors get at 4.25". And the mechanical anchors have a rated load that is several times that required to lift 6000 lbs on the Maxjax (see the website).

Let them cure overnight just to be sure.

You could have saved a bunch of money on the epoxy anchors by buying them through Dannmar. They sell a kit.

 

[sidwin]

those anchors are being discontinue from wej-it... stock up if you need them. honestly i torqued my epoxy anchors down and have never removed them after torque... kind of scared to since i finally got the thing torqued and leveled...

 

[Johns12]

My Wej-it anchors that came with the MaxJax are all holding fine. I leave one post up and the other is stored. It has been bolted down maybe 20 times in the last 8 months and is solid. I had a Jag XK8 up on the lift for a month.

 

[Rody1285]

Hi everyone I have a problem with my max jax

 

[Rody1285]

The issue lies in the anchors they failed

 

[Rody1285]

Bump

 

[Rody1285]

I made a video which outlines my problem

 

[Rody1285]

This site requires 5 posts before I can share a link please see next post

 

[sidwin]

chemical anchors are the way to go and throw away the ones that came with it.

 

[Rody1285]

I have a problem with my maxjax anchors, can anyone offer me some advice... I made a video and I posted it to YouTube. See link sorry about the other messages I had to make 5 posts before I could share link

I contacted maxjax and they advised to the punch the anchors thru the slab deep into the dirt then order and install epoxy anchor set, in the same spot.

Any other options or work around advice would be appreciated, hopefully this can also help someone else in the future...

 

[infinkc]

I have a problem with my maxjax anchors, can anyone offer me some advice... I made a video and I posted it to YouTube. See link sorry about the other messages I had to make 5 posts before I could share link

I contacted maxjax and they advised to the punch the anchors thru the slab deep into the dirt then order and install epoxy anchor set, in the same spot.

Any other options or work around advice would be appreciated, hopefully this can also help someone else in the future...

almost seems like the slab in that area is not 4" deep. did you verify after you drilled? also if the slab is thicker than 4" than you drilled, you wont be able to punch those anchors down without probably cracking the bottom of the slab.

 

[Rody1285]

almost seems like the slab in that area is not 4" deep. did you verify after you drilled? also if the slab is thicker than 4" than you drilled, you wont be able to punch those anchors down without probably cracking the bottom of the slab.

Its definitely 4" we hit dirt at the end point each time, I guess it's possible that some parts may be less than 4" maybe air pocket or blow out at the on the bottom side of the slab when the drill went thru.

I tried to hammer them back down and reset the them but they only grab at a higher point , I guess it would make theoretically sense that concrete is lower there as they still garb but at a higher level.

Is it possible if the anchors were not fully deployed when I attached base plate and cranked down on the bolt forcing the unemployed anchors back up the hole damaging the hole or the anchor?

Would it be safe to bang them down into dirt and switch to epoxy style?

 

[sidwin]

Its definitely 4" we hit dirt at the end point each time, I guess it's possible that some parts may be less than 4" maybe air pocket or blow out at the on the bottom side of the slab when the drill went thru.

I tried to hammer them back down and reset the them but they only grab at a higher point , I guess it would make theoretically sense that concrete is lower there as they still garb but at a higher level.

Is it possible if the anchors were not fully deployed when I attached base plate and cranked down on the bolt forcing the unemployed anchors back up the hole damaging the hole or the anchor?

Would it be safe to bang them down into dirt and switch to epoxy style?

Answered you on YouTube. I’ve installed mine twice.

Hammer it all the way through. Hopefully u drilled it all the way down. Those anchors are toast. Punch them down and get chemical anchors. Easy fix if you drilled the hole all the way through. What u should have done was drill it all the way through. Clean the hole. Push coffee filter or
Plastic garbage bag in the hole. Use epoxy adhesive they sell at Home Depot for the anchors. U have to have the right caulk gun. Then use those anchors they supplied and install them with the epoxy. If they spin during torque punch them down to the ground. And go back with a chemical anchor. Or just go chemical anchor from the beginning cost about extra $150 but set and forget. Not that big of a deal. If you didn’t drill it all the way to the ground then you are going to be moving the post forward a foot if you don’t want to tear up the concrete. I loved my jack and made sure at my new house I poured 5 inch concrete and always drill all the way through just in case.... good luck

 

[Rody1285]

Answered you on YouTube. I’ve installed mine twice.

Hammer it all the way through. Hopefully u drilled it all the way down. Those anchors are toast. Punch them down and get chemical anchors. Easy fix if you drilled the hole all the way through. What u should have done was drill it all the way through. Clean the hole. Push coffee filter or
Plastic garbage bag in the hole. Use epoxy adhesive they sell at Home Depot for the anchors. U have to have the right caulk gun. Then use those anchors they supplied and install them with the epoxy. If they spin during torque punch them down to the ground. And go back with a chemical anchor. Or just go chemical anchor from the beginning cost about extra $150 but set and forget. Not that big of a deal. If you didn’t drill it all the way to the ground then you are going to be moving the post forward a foot if you don’t want to tear up the concrete. I loved my jack and made sure at my new house I poured 5 inch concrete and always drill all the way through just in case.... good luck

I was thinking of getting the maxjax epoxy anchors :

https://www.maxjax.com/accessories/epoxy-anchor-bolt-kit/

I'm kind of worried about the Max Jack and its design all the weight forces are on the anchor bolts, would an over head bar bolted to the sides of the coulmns reduce load the forces on the anchors, bolts and concrete ?

 

[sidwin]

i used those epoxy anchors but i got my own epoxy. just clean the hole and let it cure. you should be good to go. if you are worried then move the lift a foot forward. not that big of a deal. i know it sounds scary. on my second install i had the drill get stuck with the bit stuck in the hole. i then didn't have a big enough hammer and the epoxy was drying faster then i could get it down.

make sure u get a big *** hammer. not a sledge hammer but u need a bigger one then i saw in your video. you need to hammer that guy down in 5 minutes. tip would be is insert your bolt and wrap it in painter tape to protect the thread of each anchor. put plastic bag in the hole... shoot some epoxy in the hole. put some epoxy on the anchor and go to town hammering.

 

[sidwin]

i lifted my toyota sequoia on there without a problem. it was scary but wasn't a problem. i lifted my xc90 recently without a problem and my subaru outback.

do yourself a favor and get the lube for the lift to help with the noise and buy the longer hose like i did.

 

[Rody1285]

i used those epoxy anchors but i got my own epoxy. just clean the hole and let it cure. you should be good to go. if you are worried then move the lift a foot forward. not that big of a deal. i know it sounds scary. on my second install i had the drill get stuck with the bit stuck in the hole. i then didn't have a big enough hammer and the epoxy was drying faster then i could get it down.

make sure u get a big *** hammer. not a sledge hammer but u need a bigger one then i saw in your video. you need to hammer that guy down in 5 minutes. tip would be is insert your bolt and wrap it in painter tape to protect the thread of each anchor. put plastic bag in the hole... shoot some epoxy in the hole. put some epoxy on the anchor and go to town hammering.

What is the purpose of the plastic bag?
Also I will do it, I'm going to order the anchors now... I should be okay using the max jax epoxy?

 

[Rody1285]

Also do I fill the entire hole with epoxy? Wont it leak out on the dirt, is that why I shove a plastic bag down hole?

 

[sidwin]

Also do I fill the entire hole with epoxy? Wont it leak out on the dirt, is that why I shove a plastic bag down hole?

plastic bag is so the epoxy doesn't drip all the way out. i think there are directions if i'm not mistaken on how much epoxy to use. IIRC it was like 1/3 the hole plus add some on the anchor. i did that to help lube the anchor down.

 

[sidwin]

What is the purpose of the plastic bag?
Also I will do it, I'm going to order the anchors now... I should be okay using the max jax epoxy?

I read some bad things about their epoxy. make sure u get the right caulk gun. u can't use a regular caulk gun cause it can't shoot that thick. i buy extra epoxy cause i like to lube the anchor.

 

[Rody1285]

What is the best and strongest epoxy, I might use max jax epoxy but I want to have other options in case