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Maximum height for a 6x6 lean-to post?

SpiderDave

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I'm building a freestanding 16'x48' lean-to style covered area next to my pole barn (because it can't be attached structurally). The wall / eve I'm building next to is 15' tall. I'd like to run two rows of 6x6 posts, @ 32" deep, parallel to the shop, averaging 10' o.c. with a beam on top and a 14' rafter span between them. And the snow load's 50psf.

I wouldn't know for certain, but I feel like 15' is pushing it on the back row of 15' tall 6x posts even though they're only 10' apart. Should the taller row against the pole barn wall be 8x8's at that height? I'm a little concerned about flexing in the wind, despite diagonal bracing as well as other supports that'll be present. I know mismatching post wouldn't be optically attractive, but prices have tripled here since the last time I bought them. All 8x's would be a serious chunk of money @ $350 a pop.

Has anyone else come across this before and what did you do? Any kind of advice or input would really help. Thanks as always!
 
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Youngandfree

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My back deck is 17ft off the ground sitting on 6x6. I shed roof should be fine in my uneducated opinion
 

Zeke

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If the wall you are building against is 15' and you are running a beam on top of your longer posts, wouldn't they be more like 14' tall from grade? @billconner will help here but I can say in advance of his advice that the posts are strictly in compression. Other structural values will have to be gained from bracing, footings, and metal hardware.
 
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SpiderDave

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If the wall you are building against is 15' and you are running a beam on top of your longer posts, wouldn't they be more like 14' tall from grade? @billconner will help here but I can say in advance of his advice that the posts are strictly in compression. Other structural values will have to be gained from bracing, footings, and metal hardware.
Yes, if I understand your question right. The walls 14', but this being on a lower side of the shop adds a foot, making it 15'. But I subtracted a foot for the 12" beam on top of the post and that's how I got 14'.
I'd be a lot more worried about racking than the post's weight capacity.
I know, I'm starting to have my doubts about it too. I'd like to sister up the posts to the existing shop, then lag bolt them together. Plus the roofing could be underlapped in to the shops roofing. There would be a shed incorporated in 1/4 of the lean-to that would add to stability and then a bunch of diagonal bracing everywhere. But I can't find any codes that permits me to bolt into the shop posts without an additional expense, inspection and a different permit.
 

Firebrick43

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First, where do you live, update your profile.

Frost depth, snow loads, and general wind loads mean everything here. Everything is worthless without that.
 

Hank11

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I'd be a lot more worried about racking than the post's weight capacity.
^^^^^^^^^ This!

You need some engineering help with this. “This” being the entire design plan for your new shed. Just sticking posts in the ground is not the answer.
 

jack stand

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Have you considered laminating 2x6's? The treatment is completely through it vs. only a couple of inches at most with a 6x6 and it's much more stable (twisting and bowing not to mention stronger. Then there's always using 2x8's but Mike's point about "racking" would be my first concern also.
I frequently use an 8' and 2 12's of direct burial rated pt for the buried portion, set them in position and plumb and backfill then transition to kd above. (In a closed exterior wall situation)
 
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SpiderDave

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First, where do you live, update your profile.

Frost depth, snow loads, and general wind loads mean everything here. Everything is worthless without that.
2 out of 4 are listed here. 32" post depth and 50psf snow load. I've given it honest attempts, but for me, it's wishful thinking that I'd ever know how to determine wind loads..
^^^^^^^^^ This!

You need some engineering help with this. “This” being the entire design plan for your new shed. Just sticking posts in the ground is not the answer.
Thanks Hank, it's always good to hear from you, but putting posts in the ground is far from being my design plan or a source of solutions. I just asked what the height limit was for a post size. IMO, A lot of span tables do the same and don't account for loads either, it's just intended as a starting point if nothing else comes of it.

As for this project, it's not for any lack of effort. I've been coming at it every way I can, for over a year now. Actually, since the beginning of spring last year when the freestanding issue halted the project, throwing a monkey wrench into everything. I've haven't built anything like this or it'd be done by now. My first thread on this project was Aug 4, 2022. Though I learned so much from the kind folks here, I still didn't get what I needed to move forward. I understand there are many other factors to consider, and it's not as simple as any one thing - as they all effect each other. I'm not the only person who's build a freestanding structure. I've found plenty of examples, just no one who's done it.

That said, I couldn't get what I was after. So, I'm trying not to create such broad overwhelming questions that people would pass on it or splinter too far off topic. This is after something like 35 failed attempts at hiring a Designer or Architect to help. I decided to try focusing on one thing at a time for some baselines to work off of and compile into something more. It's at least a place to start so I'd have something to work from and possibly figure it out with what other people have shared about their projects. For which I'm grateful and have learned a lot! Even if people don't know for certain, I value opinions, advice and willingness to help very highly.

Something I mentioned in previous threads, if enough people agree and I design it a little over that, chances are the city will accept it or even tell me it's overkill. Great! Then I'd know where I stood at that point. I could take that home, make adjustments and bring it back for final approval. From what I understand, the city will most likely help me make minor label or design corrections if it's overall correct. I don't care if it's above code, I just want to hand in something they won't find too much of a project to assist or offer consultation.

Like my last post for example, it was about diagonal bracing, nothing else. It gave me a good feel for it and confirmation on what I already knew, so I could set that aside while I figured other things out. I had a thread about beam size too. Once that was established, the diagonal bracing sealed the deal becasue it would help support the beam as well as the conclusion I came to. Now here I am going after the posts. :)

Two friends who are long time licensed contractors have been kind enough to come over and take a looksie. They had a few ideas too (same as mine), but in the end they actually didn't know for certain either. They mostly just follow what their architects give them. And this one is out of their expertise just enough to create uncertainty. I did get designer / architect referrals from them, they were all a bust. I even got a couple from here on Garage Journal in previous threads, none of them worked out either.

Like when MW Bldg Supply first said they didn't service my area. Then I got another rep saying they were happy to help and I was in their service area. Even if they didn't, I said I would pick it up myself - but I didn't need to. So, all was good. They'd design it, with instructions + diagrams and even the supplies - like a DIY Kit. Even offering the option of building it for you. Once I sent in the diagrams, plans & measurements in, they ghosted me like I'd said something wrong,... and I didn't. A month later of trying and I couldn't get a single reply.

Others didn't do that sort of build or didn't answer back at alll, except one who returned my call 3 weeks later in the evening, admittingly drunker than a skunk. And another who played phone tag ignoring all info shared like it was the first time we'd ever spoke - for a months time, until I gave up.

I did find an outfit in Salem that was VERY qualified and they specialized in pole barns. That was exciting until they kept talking down to me (and other customers too) like the project was beneath them. I figured they were just having a bad day and didn't let it phase me. But once they said it would cost half of what I roughly estimated the entire lean-to itself would cost, I kindly thanked them and declined on good terms.

I've failed miserably at giving a short answer here, but there isn't one. I just wanted to explain where I'm coming from.

For what it's worth, I've been toying with the idea of putting a thread on here seeking designers that would be interested? It's a simple enough project it could easily be done via email without even visiting the jobsite by someone with expertise.
 

JeepYJ

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The Menards website has a design your own building section. You input what sizes and specs you want and your location and it spits out building plans. May be worth a look to help you determine if you’re on the right track or not.
 

billconner

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14' max for a 6x6. :) I don't really know but found it in several sources. Here's one without a paywall. https://www.weekand.com/home-garden/article/calculate-max-post-height-deck-18041644.php (I prefer the JLC but limit of free articles.)

I like the idea of laminating 2x6s an just using it in ground, just like dried above. Just get at least UC4B treated wood. That's .60 per cubic foot iirc. Glue and screws or nails.

Can you tie it to the main building for lateral support?
 
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SpiderDave

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The Menards website has a design your own building section. You input what sizes and specs you want and your location and it spits out building plans. May be worth a look to help you determine if you’re on the right track or not.
Thanks JeepYJ, Good idea, I'll give that shot!

Have you considered laminating 2x6's? The treatment is completely through it vs. only a couple of inches at most with a 6x6 and it's much more stable (twisting and bowing not to mention stronger. Then there's always using 2x8's but Mike's point about "racking" would be my first concern also.
I frequently use an 8' and 2 12's of direct burial rated pt for the buried portion, set them in position and plumb and backfill then transition to kd above. (In a closed exterior wall situation)

That method's new to me, but it makes sense. We get a lot of rain here when it's not summer, should I be worried about moisture getting trapped between boards? Gotta say though, that would be stronger! I'm liking that idea the more I think about it. Maybe go with stainless screws on the bottom 4ft? Do you use bolt through's anywhere or just screw/nails to laminate them?

14' max for a 6x6. :) I don't really know but found it in several sources. Here's one without a paywall. https://www.weekand.com/home-garden/article/calculate-max-post-height-deck-18041644.php (I prefer the JLC but limit of free articles.)

I like the idea of laminating 2x6s an just using it in ground, just like dried above. Just get at least UC4B treated wood. That's .60 per cubic foot iirc. Glue and screws or nails.

Can you tie it to the main building for lateral support?

I read what JeepY wrote earlier, and then got sidetracked. Glad you brought that up again to remind me, thanks!

I'm just asking because I want to learn and I'm curious. Would adhesive still have that good of a hold on wood that's been wet for long periods of time? Or over the years? What kind of adhesive? I'm not knocking the idea, I'm actually considering it. :)

Also you mentioned to make sure I got at least UC4B treated wood? What better options are there? I figure I'd compare the prices. It's pretty wet here, so it might not hurt to see what's available, if they carry it? Just yesterday when pricing 6x6 posts ($150.00 ea) and 8x8 post (@348.00 each!) I asked them what they were treated with. They were very nice and kindly asked other associates for me too, but no one knew. I asked if it was green in color and they said no, it's red. I got the name of their supplier, but have yet to call them and ask.

Fence posts don't last long around here. And one corner 6x posts on the shop's rotting out after 20 yrs. It's the green PT type you typically see in pole barns, but I don't know what treatment it had. To be fair, that pole might've been put in damaged and the rot got in through a hole since the others seem in much better shape.

You asked if I could tie in? IDK yet. With the other plans like lots of diagonal bracing, 3 trusses and 1/4 of it being a closed shed helping with some of the racking, I think that'd be optimal. I'd love to sister up the posts and and either bolt or lag them together. So technically I wouldn't be adding any weight to the pole barn. I called the city again today. They said the inspector would likely call me back tomorrow - fingers crossed. If they said 'yes' to that, I'd hit the ground running on this project. The city's what foiled my plans of a LVL ledger board and keeping it simple like I thought it'd be. I will say I've learned a lot on this project though.

Thanks everybody for sticking through this with me and not giving up.
 

rayra

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I see nothing in your posts about WHY it can't be attached to your existing structure. Would be a simple matter to attach a proper ledger board to the framing of the building. It's done all the time.

OTher than that, if you are intent on a free-standing design, then you need to look at POST-frame construction methods / youtube channels and also old-world timber-framing designs. There is nothing difficult about what you are wanting to accomplish.
I find you posts about it taking forever and nobody local having any solutions or willingness to take on the work to be confusing.

Look at some vids by RR buildings in the midwest. https://www.youtube.com/c/RRBuildings
They do an excellent job of showing post-framed construction methods. All the info on footings, laminated tall posts, everything you need is in their vids.

What matters is your local code requirements and approval process and what if any freeze / footing depth you have to be concerned with in your locality. As that will drive design choices.

Lastly, you should have gone to your local code authority FIRST THING so they could give you guidance on what they need to see or so they could suggest solutions. You seem to be doing the reverse, trying to divine the answers before you even bring a plan to them, and 'planning to fail' and revise as they demand. Why not instead skip that part and START with them.

/i'm no fan of seeking permission or slavishly following dictates, but it would seem they would have the answers and your methods don't seem to be getting anywhere so far.
 

Firebrick43

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2 out of 4 are listed here. 32" post depth and 50psf snow load. I've given it honest attempts, but for me, it's wishful thinking that I'd ever know how to determine wind loads..
That seems odd? Here in Indiana we have 20 psf snowload but frost depth is 40-42 inch depth with requires a 48" pole depth. And that depth is merely adequate for wind loads. I think 32" is way to shallow.

But there are some odd locations, hense, why "where do you live" is important. You don't have to tell us your actual small town or neighborhood, just a general location.
 
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SpiderDave

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I see nothing in your posts about WHY it can't be attached to your existing structure. Would be a simple matter to attach a proper ledger board to the framing of the building. It's done all the time.

OTher than that, if you are intent on a free-standing design, then you need to look at POST-frame construction methods / youtube channels and also old-world timber-framing designs. There is nothing difficult about what you are wanting to accomplish.
I find you posts about it taking forever and nobody local having any solutions or willingness to take on the work to be confusing.

Look at some vids by RR buildings in the midwest. https://www.youtube.com/c/RRBuildings
They do an excellent job of showing post-framed construction methods. All the info on footings, laminated tall posts, everything you need is in their vids.

What matters is your local code requirements and approval process and what if any freeze / footing depth you have to be concerned with in your locality. As that will drive design choices.

Lastly, you should have gone to your local code authority FIRST THING so they could give you guidance on what they need to see or so they could suggest solutions. You seem to be doing the reverse, trying to divine the answers before you even bring a plan to them, and 'planning to fail' and revise as they demand. Why not instead skip that part and START with them.

/i'm no fan of seeking permission or slavishly following dictates, but it would seem they would have the answers and your methods don't seem to be getting anywhere so far.
Sorry for being MIA. I had to take care of family and then I fell ill myself, long story. I'm back, but keeping this short as I can, recovering but not feeling so great.

For the questions: Phew! This is a lot to reply to when there's no quick easy answer. I tried to streamline my thread this time to avoid that. But for the sake of answering out of common courtesy, I'm just going to skim over the biggest reasons - which will still be a lot.

Thanks rayra, lots of really helpful stuff there.

You wrote: I see nothing in your posts about WHY it can't be attached to your existing structure.

It was a potential TMI situation, that was my reason for start out with 'because it can't be attached structurally' and left it at that.

I know it's common practice starting with a ledger board, that was my knee jerk reaction too. Then the City, a highly respected local pole barn contractor (that said the job would be minimum 1 1/2 yrs out for him) and the qualified pole barn specialist designers I mentioned earlier, at different times all said that it wasn't designed to handle additional loads. That's the very nature and appeal of most pole barns - being built cheaply. That they aren't always designed to handle added loads. Not without some retrofitting and reinforcements first. They said, adding to a design which has been specifically calibrated only to handle it's own load requirements, could cause failure under the high stresses with additional loads and down forces not considered or intended by the original designer or architect.

Becasue of how it's used, mine unfortunately isn't considered an agricultural building. If it were, it'd be done by now. Ag bldg laws are very lose here. Laws apply differently in my situation since it's a machine shop & occupied. I agree with you,.. I'm not a fan either, but at the end of the day, we're all tethered by the local code and enforcement for sure.

I was told a ledger board would involve a full on construction permit to attach. Instead of a basic bldg permit. From what the city told me, the shop would have to be inspected before anything could happen. Any mods or retrofits required would have to addressed before the lean-to could proceed. That might end up being a can of worms. Not to mention our permit fees just increased by 50% last month.

Though I've spent a ton of money repairing, fixing and improving on some seriously shady construction on this money pit of a pole barn, there are things an inspector might have issues with that I haven't gotten around to yet. I'm not sure I wanna open a can of worms there adn create more headaches for myself. When we bought the place, it wasn't even up to past standards let alone todays. I've since come to know the contractor who built it. He has a bad reputation and I found out first hand why. He built the house too, and did equally poor work. It's been a nightmare.

It was originally the City and a Designer Architect who proposed considering building a freestanding non-structural lean-to, to get around the obstacles. I knew it wasn't the answer, but at least it gave me a starting point.

Also, the posts on the pole barn are showing their age - 27 yrs. I'm not a fan of adding a load to them. One is rotted out at the base and in need of repair before anything begins. I'd considered placing the new supporting post on the lean-to @ 10' o.c. instead of 12' sistering up to the pole barn's. This would stagger the posts and make any future repairs far less of a headache on the old posts. If the lean-to and shop were anchored together by the ledger board etc, all the better for that too.

One solution is to open that exterior wall, notch the concrete and add another row of posts inside the walls to beef it up. I like this idea, but it's more work than you'd know becasue of the interior situation. And, there's neither the time or budget for all that.


YOU WROTE: I find you posts about it taking forever and nobody locally having any solutions or willingness to take on the work to be confusing.

Me too ray,.. me too. I understand and It doesn't look good for me does it? lol!

I will say, before relocating, I have 36 yrs of managing 2 successful businesses back to back under my belt. With crews and handling large contracts + job bids with the City, Gov, Hospitals, Lawyer firms, Banks, Hotel Chains, Factories, UPS distribution centers and countless residential locations. In all that time working with people, I only lost one bid. Complaints were rare to none. As acting jobsite coordinator, inspectors frequently commented to co-workers that I was the easiest person they'd worked with, always ready, prepared and respected their time. We proudly had a separate file cabinet dedicated to references and all the appreciation letters we'd received over the years from our clients. We never lost a contract unless the business moved, closed or local contractor opportunities had to be rotated by law.

I mention this, to represent myself in whatever confusion there is. I'm simply saying I know how to talk to people, I assure you it's nothing I'm doing and I'm not accusing anyone of saying that either - just covering my ***. I and other people present when I made most of the calls, would tell you, it wasn't anything I did. Then again, that's just might be what a crazy delusional person would say too. Ha! And,.. that's the part where someone says, "You said it, not me!"

Customer service and overall business demeanor has changed over the yrs here. In my experience, it's a sign of the times or simple as people being over their service limit and blowing potential customers off - it happens. To be fair, it's not just this way with builders either. It's plumbers, electricians and concrete guys too. (all businesses I've tried to hire in the last 2yrs) Even my internet went out again a few weeks ago. The soonest they could schedule a tech was 12 days. An improvement for the 14 days last time. Luckily it came back on the next day. Come to find out, they were over servicing our area and that's why it failed.

I called every spray foam specialist within 100 miles last year to do a job, and not one returned my calls. I ended up ordering 2 pallets of spray foam and doing it myself. Only one concrete business returned my calls and never got back to me after I sent them the info they requested for an estimate. Not even after attempting to touch base with them as a reminder. So, I did that myself too. These were all jobs located in a neighboring town close to them. It's just the way it is around here.

Construction's notoriously well known for being a congested or procrastinating profession around here. It took 1 1/2 yrs before the guy who built my neighbors house could be bothered to finish putting up some simple trim and box in some porch posts. I've worked with about every kind of contractor and was even one myself. Even when I had 12 guys going full bore and couldn't keep up, I always returned calls whether I could take the job or not. That was just my way of doing things. But I will say that good contractors are hard to find, becasue they're usually the busiest of them all, for good reason.

YOU WROTE: Lastly, you should have gone to your local code authority FIRST THING so they could give you guidance on what they need to see or so they could suggest solutions.

Couldn't agree more, but who said I didn't?? If you look directly above your post, among my last sentences it states, "The city's what foiled my plans of a LVL ledger board and keeping it simple like I thought it'd be."

I wrote that because I began with the intention of using a ledger board. And at some point had contact with the city to begin with,... first thing. And like most, I pursued that conversation further asking them, "Why the heck not?" Which is how I ended up here.

I started spring of last year, and my first thread here wasn't until August after hitting walls with them for months on end. From what you're saying, you're quite fortunate. Our City / LCA does not function with the same tax payer courtesy and consideration that yours does. I can get answers incrementally when I press my luck, but only crumbs and incomplete answers.

Numerous emails and voicemails failed without reply this entire time. Going down there and talking to them in person, I do get ambiguous titbits but it mostly falls on deaf ears as they repeat that I should examine the local codes online (as if I hadn't already, since that was the point of calling or going down there myself). And if I have any further questions to speak with a rep or hire a professional to address any further concerns as they cannot advise, design or assist me in any architectural designing of a project with a home owner, due to liabilities. And then they say, if you have any further questions, feel free to contact our office and we'll be glad to connect you with a representative. Rinse and repeat...

That was their reaction to this specific project, as well as 7 other permits I've filed before on previous occasions at his location. It was like pulling teeth, but in the end I passed with flying colors. So, this too shall pass. It's just the way things work here for everybody. My friends and neighbors have all gone through the same thing.

After complaining, the receptionist told me if I get 98% of it right on my blueprints, they'll assist in minor corrections. They have too many people with too many questions flooding understaffed gates with a DIY attitude, becasue of either the economy or lack of professionals available. So, they're trying to discourage people from taking too much of their time, because they still have jobs to do. Which, I do understand. I appreciated the honest answer, so it didn't matter of whether I liked it or not. Just a matter of how to get around it.

That seems odd? Here in Indiana we have 20 psf snowload but frost depth is 40-42 inch depth with requires a 48" pole depth. And that depth is merely adequate for wind loads. I think 32" is way to shallow.

But there are some odd locations, hense, why "where do you live" is important. You don't have to tell us your actual small town or neighborhood, just a general location.
I agree. I'm probably going with 4' depth for all the reasons you mentioned. I've had everything verified and it's correct. The 48 psf snow load, I'll just round off to 50psf. I did finally find out the wind load is risk category II, Vuly(mph) 120 & Vasd (mph) is 93. So that was progress.

You asked them and they said you can't? Any more to this? Curious.
Hopefully I covered that enough above. It's not so much that I can't, as it's just complicated. I really didn't want it on city record that my building failed inspection either. They did tell me besides the added expense, that it could be an insurance nightmare. It's not a run down shack, don't get me wrong. I just need a lean-to sooner than I can finish the repairs inside - and doing it the way I'd like to. So freestanding is a compromise between the two - another route to get it done. I'm running out of time now with fall approaching. I may just finish what I'm doing in the pole barn and then not worry about inspections and added coast complicating things. But that'll cost me dearly having the shop down that long.

I will say though, anchoring them together is a great option and I like that idea 100%. I think I've worked out a way around it with the city, I should know something soon. Either way, I don't wish to add any additional loads to the existing building even when I finish the repairs I've been doing. It's just not built for it. The extra posts might cost a little more and be less pretty, but it's peace of mind and not as if I'd regret it later or anything. It's a cry once not twice, kinda thing. :) Hope that makes sense?
 

egdede

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I wouldn't worry too much about properly installed posts racking. I believe you'd have to snap 'em to rack 'em.
 

mike93lx

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I wouldn't worry too much about properly installed posts racking. I believe you'd have to snap 'em to rack 'em.
Huh?

Maybe we define properly installed differently. On a post base there is not all that much resistance to tipping/racking.
 
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SpiderDave

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Glad you returned and hope you recover completely and quickly.

Interesting challenge.
Thanks bill, really appreciate it. I'm sick of being sick. Ha!

I wouldn't worry too much about properly installed posts racking. I believe you'd have to snap 'em to rack 'em.
I was wondering on that with lots of time to think lately,... the posts will be on a pad and then a concrete collar or flare to keep them centered. I can't recall the name of that method and may not bother with the flared bottom. IDK And then packed in gravel or fill around it.

So what would be bad about doing another donut (so to speak) of concrete near the top as well to give it stability against the ground? To hold in place firmly. When I think of racking, I think about slight movement in the post and how that newly dug ground won't be especially firm for a while. So why not pour concrete on the last 10-12" so it's supported on the top and bottom? I ask this knowing I plan on using 5.5x5.5x5' post saver sleeves on the posts to try and prolong decay. Posts don't last around here and I wanted to give it a shot. So whatever the debate on concrete's effect in contact with the posts causing rot or not, there would be a barrier there to protect it. So, why not have a more rigid hold at the top as well so the post is less apt to rock back and forth in the hole? Keep the grass back too. Would that top layer of concrete overkill and a waste of time & $'s with no advantage or could it help a little more? Just curious what you guys think about that?

I've seen sooo many open arena structures online and around town, for parking and horse training. And they're all open with 6x posts and don't seem to have near as much reinforcement as what I'm planning on doing. It figures mine would be a pain to figure out. lol!

Thank you ALL as always.... I'm grateful.
 
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SpiderDave

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This.I’ve seen them twist more than 45* and bow more than their actual thickness and it had nothing to do with load.Get the driest ones possible whichever you choose.
Will do! Been thinking a lot about that too. Most of it's been sitting out all summer with no rain - a good time to buy.
 

egdede

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Huh?

Maybe we define properly installed differently. On a post base there is not all that much resistance to tipping/racking.
I just assumed there would be a beam across the top of the posts to rest the joists on. maybe I'll reread the OP....Maybe not....
 

NDJ

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Location
BC, Canada
This whole thead and not one picture/drawing to clear confusion on whats going on........
 
OP
S

SpiderDave

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2018
Messages
207
I just assumed there would be a beam across the top of the posts to rest the joists on. maybe I'll reread the OP....Maybe not....
That's a totally valid assumption. The eves are 14' tall. So I picked 14' as a worst case scenario since the way I'm building it isn't set in stone 100%. If I learned anything coming here looking for help on something I know too little about, it's that when you ask for help & opinions with one idea, chances are you'll be leaving with another as you learn, correct mistake or get a better idea. Ha! My thinking was that if the maximum height for a 6x6 was 14', then it'd probably be safer at 12-13' when the beam, rafter and roof you mentioned came into play. Personally, I hesitate using any material at it's maximum. I'd likely bump it up to an 8x to be safe. But it's hard to decide things like that without some idea or ground zero to start from. Plus it might make good food for thought with the next guy doing searches.

I've recently worked it out with the city, that I can anchor the the lean-to post to the pole barn posts and sister them up without a separate inspection and cost now. I just have to prove that the structure can handle it, and that I can manage I'm pretty excited about the stability that'll be gained there. And the money saved becasue knowing I can anchor the 6x posts now, I won't be as worried about bumping them up a size for rigidity, and that'll save some money. Those 8x's are more than twice the cost of a 6x6 post. The person who gave me the wrong info originally and didn't offer me the alternative course of action was misinformed. And from what I understand, is no longer working there unfortunately. But at least we got our options straightened out.

I would like the embedded posts to be nearer 1/3 or 1/4 embedded. At 14', more like 48" rather than 32" minimum for frost.
I've come around to that thinking as well, thanks to you guys. So I'm going 4' deep for all the reasons mentioned. I thought I corrected myself on that earlier, but I don't see where I did. The city told me 36". We do have a very high water table, so maybe that played into it? Post rot was my original concern, so I just never bothered questioning it when they told me. Thanks again!
 

JeepYJ

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 25, 2015
Messages
8,899
So what would be bad about doing another donut (so to speak) of concrete near the top as well to give it stability against the ground? To hold in place firmly.
Frost jacking is why you wouldn’t want to do this.
 
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