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Maximum LED wattage bulbs in basic ceiling fixtures

Alienbaby17

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Jan 27, 2014
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Minnesota
I need some advice. The lighting in my garage could use some help.

I currently have four of these very basic light fixtures with 9.5 watt LED bulbs. (If I’m not mistaken that translates to approximately 60 watts incandescent bulb.) I’m planning to continue to use this style LED bulbs but I’d like to safely upgrade to some much brighter bulbs. Unlike lamps and other light fixtures inside my home I see nothing on these indicating a maximum wattage. Can anyone shed some light on how much wattage I could safely increase to? I’d love to upgrade to 17 watts (100 incandescent watts).

Thanks.
 

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Lightning rod

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Wattage ratings for most fixtures are rated for incandescent bulbs , I believe.
So for 100w equivalent in light, you got 100w of heat And current to match. Very hot to the touch.
LED bulbs show equivalent light output in watts to the old incandescent, but heat and current will match the “ it only uses 17 watts” so you are good to go as the cobbler said.
 

cybrdyke

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Can anyone shed some light on how much wattage I could safely increase to?
You're only limited to the amount of amps your circuit breaker will allow. 17 watt lamps are no problem. They're far from maxxing out the breaker. You could even go much much bigger if you wanted to.
CD
 

SlappyWhite

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You're only limited to the amount of amps your circuit breaker will allow. 17 watt lamps are no problem. They're far from maxxing out the breaker. You could even go much much bigger if you wanted to.
CD
The light fixture has a maximum wattage which is less than the breaker and it is very dangerous advice to max out wattage to the breaker's limit on a light fixture not rated for it.
****

For the OP, those fixtures are usually rated for 660w max. The similar ones with the pull string switch are usually 250w max.

Don't worry about LED vs incandescent it is just about the wattage of the actual bulb. Your 17w LED is way under the rating of the fixture....
 

nadogail

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I remember seeing a fluorescent replacement lamp that was advertised as being the equivalent of a 200 Watt incandescent, I am sure the LED’s have surpassed that.
 

exranger06

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You don't go by "equivalent wattage," you go by ACTUAL wattage. If a fixture can handle 100W (for example), it can handle 100 ACTUAL Watts. If an LED bulb only uses 17W, that's WAY below the 100W maximum. It doesn't matter that it's "equivalent" to a 100W incandescent; the actual wattage is what matters, and it's well below the rating of the fixture.

The following is a rant:
This "equivalent wattage" BS is the result of people INCORRECTLY using wattage as a measure of light bulb brightness for decades. Wattage has (almost) NOTHING to do with brightness. Wattage is a unit of power. In other words, the higher the wattage your light bulbs are, the more money it's going to cost you on your electric bill. Likewise, lower wattage = cheaper electric bill. That's the ONLY thing wattage means! Not brightness! This is why a 17W LED has about the same brightness as a 100W incandescent, even though it uses only about 1/5th of the power.

Now, it's true that a 100W incandescent bulb is brighter than a 60W incandescent bulb. However, that doesn't mean that more watts = brighter bulb. A more correct way of looking at it is this: a 100W bulb uses almost twice as much POWER as a 60W bulb. The 2 bulbs are almost identical, use the same technology, yet one is going to cost you almost twice as much money on your electric bill as the other. Why such a big difference in power? It's because the 100W bulb is brighter than the 60W. Wattage = power, not brightness. But if you want more brightness, you'll need more power. If you want to know the BRIGHTNESS of a bulb, look at the amount of lumens it produces. It'll say it right on the packaging. A typical 60W incandescent bulb has a brightness of about 800 lumens. A 100W incandescent has a brightness of about 1600 lumens. So if you're shopping for an equivalent LED bulb, you should look for bulbs with the same number of lumens as the incandescent bulb you're replacing. The problem is, if I told you a bulb provides 800 lumens, you'd have no idea what I was talking about, and you'd have no idea how bright that is. But if I said "it's about as bright as a 60W bulb" then you'd know exactly what I was talking about, and you could picture in your mind how bright it is. This is why all LED bulb manufacturers have "equivalent to 60W" or similar on their packaging, instead of simply stating the lumens of the bulb.

So, the ONLY reason your LED bulbs say "equivalent to 100W" is so you have an idea of how bright the bulb is. It has nothing to do with the actual power consumption, or the amount of wattage your light fixture can handle. I can pretty much guarantee your fixtures can handle AT LEAST 100 (actual) watts. And you're worried about going from 9.5W up to 17W? It's not a problem.
 
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cybrdyke

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The light fixture has a maximum wattage which is less than the breaker and it is very dangerous advice to max out wattage to the breaker's limit on a light fixture not rated for it.
****
Not sure what you're on about. That's not what I said.
OP has 4 fixtures limited by his breaker. If 1800 watts (15A @120v) is his max, then he could potentially use 4 x 450 watt lamps, one in each socket. Now, as impractical as that is, I dont know if such a lamp exists or not, but if it does, it's still under the 660w rating of the porcelain keyless socket, and safely protected by the breaker.
CD
 

dogdog

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Flat panels might be the way to go. brighter and less head rooms especially for basements.
 

Daniel Dudley

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I've seen it referenced both ways, but I'll take your word for it. And when I say I have seen it referenced both ways, I mean within the last hour. I like these lights a lot. They don't stick down much, and they haven't failed yet.
 

Citation

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OP,
Sorry, I'm a bit late to this thread. I was just going to suggest you consider something like these fold out panel lights (this specific example for reference only, no personal experience with this specific model).

Basically these are a good way to increase the light output from a basic bulb socket. Glare is a potential issue with these though some have diffusers built in.
 
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