MaxJax hose questions

[tomsmith]

Hello all,

For the past few months, I've had the hydraulic hoses trailing on the floor to the columns but I've always been nervous about tripping over them and either breaking something or injuring myself. My kids always are careful around them, but I'm worried one day they will snag their feet.

I've calculated I need around 36' of hose to route it up the wall, across the ceiling and then back down to the column. I've looked through a load of threads but the only thing I can find consistently is that each hose have to be of equal length, but not the maximum hose length.

Has anyone run this length or greater? Any tips or suggestions you all can think of?

Also, does anyone know the size of the hose/connectors? My local princess auto will make the hose for me but they need to the know the size. I checked the hose itself, but there's no markings that would suggest the hose size. I can take it off the pump and take it in to the store but I'm hoping to avoid that if possible.

One other thought, can I just purchase another length of hose and just 'add' it to the existing hoses to make 1 long length? Or should I be purchasing 2 new longer lengths of hose and discarding the original ones?

 

[GYPSY400]

I just checked the video out. It looks like the hose is a #8. Which is 1/2" id.. and yes, both options will be suffice.. you could add to existing hose with a union, or do two new hoses which lessens the chance of a leak ( no union fitting to leak from).. hose lenths should be close, but it doesn't have to be exact.. once it is bled the pressures equalize and that is the key. You will probably need 2wire braid hose suitable for 2500 psi.

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[TurboCup87]

A number of people have had longer hoses made at their local hydraulic shop to put them up in the rafters and come down to the MaxJax towers.

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

Hose length won't matter really too much. Once it's pressurized, it's a captive element and will push the fluid through. If you're talking about 20 feet more, then that's not so good since it will take longer for the one size to pressurize before it takes effect, but a small extension isn't a big deal. You could (And I would) probably make equal length extensions and just coil up the side that doesn't need it as much.

NAPA (well, good ones at least) can make the hoses. A lot of shops can do it. Since your installation is semi-permanent, you might route your hoses down to a central point and mount them to a bracket that you can keep your power cart near. If you pick up another set of disconnects, you could even make short hoses to run from the cart to the fixed mount for the hoses and clean it up even more.

I haven't found any disconnects that won't leak when you disconnect them at first. There's a small amount of fluid that is lost (teaspoon to tablespoon) from the fittings, but I keep a rag under the joint to take care of that.

 

[cunninglinguist]

Sorry to hijack this thread.

I was just curious why nobody has made a "hard line" to run across the ceiling. Is it cost prohibitive?

I was thinking of mounting my power unit on one side and using a hard line across the ceiling instead of a hose, mainly for appearance sake. Dumb idea?

 

[Mr.A]

My Mohawk runs fine with hard line. Same kind of setup.

 

[tomsmith]

Hey all,

It turns out the line size is 3/8". I went down to my local princess auto and the guy there said they used to sell MaxJax's previously and that longer hydraulic hose was a commonly asked for item.

I told him I wanted 25' x 2 lengths as well as the make connectors. All in it cost:

Hydraulic hose rated at 5100psi. $2.19 x 50ft (2 x 25ft) = $109.50
3/8" mail connectors/ends. $4.99 x 4 = $19.96
3/8 couplers. $1.99 x 2 = $3.98

Subtotal = $133.44. After tax, around $153. Sorry, don't have the receipt with me so I can't remember the full total.

Watching them make the hose was pretty cool. First they cut the hose to length in some machine that looked like abrasive wheel. It was enclosed in a machine so I couldn't really see the blade but it was definitely circular and it threw off some smoke as it cut through the hose.

Then, he cleaned the outside and inside of the cut with a brush, followed by putting a little foam capsule inside the hose and blasting it through with compressed air. The little foam capsule was shot into an enclosed bucket, then retrieved to see how it looked. When it looked clean (eg no bits of metal etc.), he measure the depth of connector with a machinist ruler, transferred the marking to the outside of the hose and then lubed the connector. This was then screwed onto the hose and the connector and hose were fed into this weird looking machine with a whole bunch of metal 'petals'.

The machine was activated and these petals moved inwards, compressing the connector onto the hose. I don't know how much pressure this thing exerts but it looked and sounded like you wouldn't want any appendage caught in it.

After the connector was compressed/crimped, he measured it with a caliper to make sure it had the right spec and then did the same thing for the other 3.

I've never seen hydraulic hose being cut/made and he was pretty meticulous about it.

So the plan is this:

1. Insert the quick connector from the original hose into the column quick connect and route the hose up the column, tie to the wall with hose bracket and across the ceiling.
2. Connect the coupler to the end of the original hose (at the ceiling).
3. Screw the new hose end into the other side of the coupler, continue across the ceiling and down the wall where the pump is mounted.
4. I will be using a hose bracket every 12". I hope that's enough. I am putting 2 x 4's on top of the drywall, screwed into studs/joists and then screwing the brackets into the 2x4.
5. Loop the excess hose into a circle, and then connect the male end into the pump.
6. Repeat for other side.

BTW, I had thought about the hard line but had no idea where to even look for that so went with the hose instead.

 

[Allenw]

tomsmith

I got a laugh out of your last post, I've seen so many made I don't even think about it. Ok, I do wonder how they find the right fittings out of that wall of bins full of fittings. I've got a place that can make any thing I want pretty much and then some, I think some of the hose laying in there is 4 inch.

The previous owner took the one wire hydraulic hose when they discontinued it and plumbed his home shop for air with it.

 

[demoderbydave]

I did the same thing when I bought mine and it has been fine for 3 years...
Once in a while the "far" side lifts/lowers a bit slower but (if you use common sense) it has not been a problem....I have pix on the link...

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35763&highlight=maxjax&page=11

 

[c4cruiser]

On another note, does anyone use swivels with the hydraulic hoses? The supplied hoses are pretty stiff and while they will coil up and hang on the cart, both hoses always seem to have a "loop" when I lay them out and connect the QD couplers at the base of the lifts. The hose connections at the block above the pump are screwed directly in so there is no real way to get the hoses to lay flat enough so they lay on the floor.

I think that installing swivels at either end of the hose would solve that? Right?

 

[GYPSY400]

The machine was activated and these petals moved inwards, compressing the connector onto the hose. I don't know how much pressure this thing exerts but it looked and sounded like you wouldn't want any appendage caught in it.

You are right on that observation. . That thing squeezes with thousands of pounds of force!! Good to see that the worker took all the proper steps to make a hose .. I've made thousands of hoses.. and I probably skip half of those steps



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[GYPSY400]

On another note, does anyone use swivels with the hydraulic hoses? The supplied hoses are pretty stiff and while they will coil up and hang on the cart, both hoses always seem to have a "loop" when I lay them out and connect the QD couplers at the base of the lifts. The hose connections at the block above the pump are screwed directly in so there is no real way to get the hoses to lay flat enough so they lay on the floor.

I think that installing swivels at either end of the hose would solve that? Right?

Yes you could do swivels.. what you would need is a "live swivel" which is meant for high pressure..
http://www.parker.com/portal/site/P...atid=127849&vgnextcat=PS+SERIES+SWIVELS&Wtky=

unfortunately they are expensive ( around $100 here for #6).. an air line coupler wont cut it!

Doesn't the quick connector swivel at all?

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[tvalenziano]

Years later I'm in same boat...going to send a PM in hopes OP can assist.

Sorry for the necropost, needed 1 post to PM..

 

[matt_i]

Yes you could do swivels.. what you would need is a "live swivel" which is meant for high pressure..
http://www.parker.com/portal/site/P...atid=127849&vgnextcat=PS+SERIES+SWIVELS&Wtky=

unfortunately they are expensive ( around $100 here for #6).. an air line coupler wont cut it!

Doesn't the quick connector swivel at all?

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Rather than the rotating union, there are hydraulic hoses that are more flexible. I can't quote the hose stock series in Parker but on the forklift mast they run over a sheave on a 180 degree loop for the side shift cylinder. Probably 6" diameter roughly. I think they are #8 hoses.

As always where you have known chafing, I would advise to install protection, which could be a "hide" of leather, split black conduit or made from the jacket of another air or water hose.