MaxJax - Hydraulic Leaks

[In My Garage]

A heads up of things to check prior to installing the hydraulic fittings of your MaxJax. This would apply to any brand of hydraulic lift.

The hydraulic fittings on one of the columns of my MaxJax leaked and would leave a puddle of hydraulic oil every few lifts.

I finally got around (fed up) and determined that the leak originated at the reducer fitting that screwed directly into the hydraulic cylinder. Yes, the hydraulic cylinder seal was checked and it was dry and yes, upon disassembly of the fittings, they were found to be very tightly screwed together.

Originally, I assumed that I may not have screwed the fitting into the hydraulic cylinder with enough torque; the last thing I'd want to do is snap the fitting in the cylinder, but the leak actually originated at the joint between the reducer and the ******.

The shallow threads within the 3/8 NPT female end of the reducer and/or possibly the length and/or taper of the threads on the 3/8 NPT male ****** were the cause.


This is what the fittings look like that came with the MaxJax.

From left to right:
- Reducer - 1/4" NPT male to 3/8" NPT female (screws into hydraulic cylinder)
- Hex ****** - 3/8" NPT male to 3/8" NPT male.
- 45 degree pipe fitting - 3/8" NPT female to 3/8" NPT male.
- Male quick-disconnect fitting.

On the left: a 3/8" NPT female to 1/4" NPT male reducer showing an insufficiently threaded end. This fitting came with the MaxJax.
On the right: a 3/8" NPT female to 1/4" NPT male reducer showing a more fully threaded end. This fitting was sourced locally.

The last few threads of the 3/8" NPT ****** show that they were attempting to "cut" new threads into the 3/8" NPT female end of the reducer. There is even a burr at the end of the 3/8" NPT ****** that was formed in the process.

I replaced all hydraulic fittings; they were sourced locally.

After the usual application of Teflon tape and assembly of the new hydraulic fittings, a 2-hour under-pressure test showed no signs of leaking or weaping of the fittings.


As an added bonus, I also replaced the no-name poppet style hydraulic couplers as supplied by MaxJax with Faster brand High Pressure Flat-Face FFH series couplers. Not cheap, but damn nice.

Male coupler part number: FFH06-38NPT-M
Female coupler part number: FFH06-38NPT-F

 

[danieldd]

Good investigative work and very informative. So far, mine hasn't leaked a single drop using the supplied MaxJax fittings. If they ever do leak, I'll at least know where to look.

 

[DonnyT]

Yes, great info. So far so good for me as well. Installed about 3 months now.

 

[In My Garage]

If they're not leaking now, chances are they never will.

My leak was due to a lack of quality control at the company that manufactured the hydraulic fitting.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

Wonderful info!! For the quick disconnects how many did you buy of each? Two?

Also did you source those locally as well or online?

I'm trying to find them now.

I guess then I should wait until ordering these to see if mine do or do not leak... Figured I use better quality fittings rather than set everything up and have it leak then tear it all down again...

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

[In My Garage]

Wonderful info!! For the quick disconnects how many did you buy of each? Two?

Two of each; two male and two female. I got them locally. Get them on-line and you'll save some coin. Besides, everything is much cheaper in the US.

I guess then I should wait until ordering these to see if mine do or do not leak.

Mine were inconsistent. Disconnect one time and they would seal. Disconnect another time, and they would leak. Go figure!

Figured I use better quality fittings rather than set everything up and have it leak then tear it all down again.

Check those that came with the unit. Connect the fittings by hand without tightening them, note how far they screw in and then take them apart and check if you have enough thread depth in the female part of the fitting. Chances are they are fine. I just got unlucky.

Also, initially mine didn't leak, but then there was no weight on the lift while I was extending the lift to bleed the system. Leave a car on it for a couple of hours and then check the joints.

 

[Jvvmusme]

In My Garage needs to buy a british car asap ! This way he will get used to having leaks all around......
My Maxjax had leaks the first time due to faulty teflon tape that came installed from the factory

 

[c4cruiser]

In My Garage needs to buy a british car asap ! This way he will get used to having leaks all around......
My Maxjax had leaks the first time due to faulty teflon tape that came installed from the factory

The first thing I noticed about the supplied fittings and hoses was that the teflon tape on them were wrapped in the wrong direction

 

[In My Garage]

In My Garage needs to buy a british car asap ! This way he will get used to having leaks all around.

You forgot to mention motorcycles. In the motorcycle dealer that I used to work in, we used to have drip trays under the engines of the new Norton and Triumph motorcycles in our showroom.

Its unfortunate British engineering (can those two words even be used in the same sentence) is such ****; I always wanted a Lotus Europa or the last generation Turbo Esprit.

My Maxjax had leaks the first time due to faulty teflon tape that came installed from the factory.

My MaxJax came with a roll of teflon tape that I had to apply to my fittings. The quality of the tape wasn't great so I bought another roll of teflon tape from a local industrial supply store.

 

[In My Garage]

New fittings (that weren't defective), new Teflon tape, new Faster FFH High Pressure Flat-Face hydraulic couplers, and....no leaks after almost three hours of the car being on the lift and not held up by the mechanical lock.

Now, who do I send the bill to.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

Alex,

Please post a picture of your flat face fittings on the sides of the posts!! I just read your blog on the other site. Excellent!!

I just ordered these so I wouldn't have to deal with leaky fittings:

http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/ISO_16028_Couplers_br_complete_sets_p/ht-set.htm


Looks very similar to yours!


These are also supposed to be a no drip design, how are yours, any drips when connecting and disconnecting?

-Nigel

 

[In My Garage]

Please post a picture of your flat face fittings on the sides of the posts!!

Here you go...

These are also supposed to be a no drip design, how are yours, any drips when connecting and disconnecting?

A flat face has the advantages of leaking far less hydraulic oil during make and break connections as well as being cleaner since you can wipe the faces of them easily. The latter isn't an issue since we're not operating in a construction zone.

The poppet style couplers that came with the MaxJax always dripped a few tablespoons of hydraulic oil during each make and break connection.

I haven't had my new ones apart yet. I'll post results tomorrow after leaving them disconnected overnight.

 

[In My Garage]

I haven't had my new ones apart yet. I'll post results tomorrow after leaving them disconnected overnight.

Nigel, breaking the flat-face coupler connection yesterday evening didn't even yield a drop of hydraulic oil. In fact, there was so little hydraulic oil on the faces of the flat-face couplers that you couldn't even stain a paper towel while wiping them.

And the faces of the flat-face couplers were bone dry after being disconnected overnight.

I'm sold on these.

 

[danieldd]

New fittings (that weren't defective), new Teflon tape, new Faster FFH High Pressure Flat-Face hydraulic couplers, and....no leaks after almost three hours of the car being on the lift and not held up by the mechanical lock.

Now, who do I send the bill to.

Is that a block of UHMW at the bottom of your cylinder lift? I don't have those!

 

[In My Garage]

Is that a block of UHMW at the bottom of your cylinder lift? I don't have those!

And you'll likely not need them.

I made and installed those blocks because my garage is sloped and when the lift arms are in the "parked" position (parallel to the sides of the car), due to the MaxJax columns being vertical as they should be, the lift arm that is further up the slope would make contact with the garage floor and prevent it from being swung out.

When the MaxJax was fully lowered, those contact points actually prevented the lift from going down that last half-inch.

Those blocks prevent the lift head from going down that last bit.

Without blocks, that reinforcing strip under the lift arm contacts the garage floor...

With blocks that now provide just under an inch of clearance...

A hockey puck under the lift head would have worked, but I never doing anything less than 100%.

 

[danieldd]

Understand, and thanks. Makes sense.

Luckily for me, my floor is quite level. I need my arms to go fully to the floor as my 850i is lowered. As it stands right now, if the MaxJax arms were 1/2 off the floor, there wouldn't be enough clearance to position the MaxJax on the car's lifting pads.

You must not have this problem with the Porsche..

 

[In My Garage]

You must not have this problem with the Porsche.

Not really, as it is stock/original and I use the following...

I drive up on a single square of 3/4" plywood under each front wheel and a triple square of 3/4" plywood under each rear wheel. That places the car level for initial lifting purposes.

 

[c4cruiser]

I'm fighting some fluid leaks now after the first few lifts of my car. One leak is down at the base of the hydraulic cylinder; I can't see which one of the fittings is leaking, but I'm afraid I may have to take the post down, remove the fittings, clean off the tape and re-install. There are also some small leaks on the QD fitting on the hose end. I purchased a pair of 90 degree fittings for the female QD connectors and there is a leak at that point.

I assume that re-doing all the fittings will lead to a fair amount of fluid loss and another fluid bleeding drill??

 

[In My Garage]

One leak is down at the base of the hydraulic cylinder; I can't see which one of the fittings is leaking.

Unload the lift and then wipe down all fitting joints with paper towel soaked in 90% alcohol. When the fittings are all dry, load the lift with a car and check the fittings. I ran my pinky around the base of the cylinder where the reducer installs and my leak was there, but not due to a lack of tightening or tape, but due to a faulty fitting.

I'm afraid I may have to take the post down, remove the fittings, clean off the tape and re-install.

I removed my cylinders with the MaxMax columns in place. You need to remove the QD fitting, the lift arms and then if you are strong enough, slide/lift the "lift head weldment" out the top of the column. Get some help.

I did all that with new fittings and flat-face hydraulic couplers. It was worth it. No leaks and couplers that do not spill a nano-drop of hydraulic oil.

There are also some small leaks on the QD fitting on the hose end. I purchased a pair of 90 degree fittings for the female QD connectors and there is a leak at that point.

I applied 5 full turns of Teflon tape to all fittings. Check that you don't have a dud fitting as I had. See pics in first post.

I assume that re-doing all the fittings will lead to a fair amount of fluid loss and another fluid bleeding drill??

Lower the MaxJax and disconnect the QDs. A cup of hydraulic oil (have paper towels handy) may come out of each cylinder.

Bleeding is a 5-minute affair.

 

[c4cruiser]

Thanks for the tips!! There is a local hydraulics shop in town so I think I will just get all new pieces.

5 turns of teflon tape sounds like a lot; I used some Permatex liquid teflon for some of the fittings. Is there any reason to think that liquid teflon is not a good choice?

 

[In My Garage]

5 turns of teflon tape sounds like a lot.

3 to 5 turns. I chose to go with 5.

I used some Permatex liquid teflon for some of the fittings. Is there any reason to think that liquid teflon is not a good choice?

Like anything, those that have it or use it will tell you it is the best.

The tech at my hydraulics shop prefers teflon tape; so do I.

Just make sure the fittings do not bottom out as one of mine did.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

I used loctite 545... Very easy to use, no mess and works awesome!

-Nigel

 

[Jvvmusme]

And you'll likely not need them.

I made and installed those blocks because my garage is sloped and when the lift arms are in the "parked" position (parallel to the sides of the car), due to the MaxJax columns being vertical as they should be, the lift arm that is further up the slope would make contact with the garage floor and prevent it from being swung out.

When the MaxJax was fully lowered, those contact points actually prevented the lift from going down that last half-inch.

Those blocks prevent the lift head from going down that last bit.

Without blocks, that reinforcing strip under the lift arm contacts the garage floor...

With blocks that now provide just under an inch of clearance...

A hockey puck under the lift head would have worked, but I never doing anything less than 100%.

Do You have pictures of the blocks before installing them or at least drawings ?

My maxjax instalation is in a steep slope ....
Thanks

 

[In My Garage]

Do You have pictures of the blocks before installing them or at least drawings ?

My maxjax instalation is in a steep slope ....
Thanks

See page 4 of my MaxJax Lift installation pictorial.

 

[darnelld]

Thinking about a maxjax. I have to say "In My Garage" this was a really good post. Thanks from all us newbies!

 

[NewShockerGuy]

New fittings (that weren't defective), new Teflon tape, new Faster FFH High Pressure Flat-Face hydraulic couplers, and....no leaks after almost three hours of the car being on the lift and not held up by the mechanical lock.

Now, who do I send the bill to.

Alex,

I know this is kinda old, but any chance on you able to making these and someone purchasing from you?

I am having the problem of the arms scraping my epoxy floor and after a while would prefer it to not scrape it off completely...etc.

Just wondering if this might be a projec that you might entertain? I really only need the arms 1/2" off the floor really... maybe even alittle less if it's easier.

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

[In My Garage]

Alex,

I know this is kinda old, but any chance on you able to making these and someone purchasing from you?

I am having the problem of the arms scraping my epoxy floor and after a while would prefer it to not scrape it off completely...etc.

Just wondering if this might be a projec that you might entertain? I really only need the arms 1/2" off the floor really... maybe even a little less if it's easier.

Thanks,
-Nigel

Nigel, sorry but I am too ******* with things.

You can make a set like mine using a simple circular saw or better yet, table saw (either with a carbide blade), and a hole saw. I have the dimensions on my site. They are super simple to make. Make sure of the thickness required though.

Or you can simply lay a hockey puck under the carriage.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

Alex,

No worries at all! I'll check out the dimensions on your site.

I do have a question. Is there any problems with having these spacers in a way because the piston is not fully in the tube since there is a little spacer there now. Hope that is making sense, IE: The arms and carriage are still resting on the piston by an inch or two where as before they would not be because the piston would be fully in the tube?

Would you recommend two hockey pucks one on each side of the piston or actually would a smaller piece of ply wood work? I ask only because I have extra ply wood and since the area doesn't get wet I don't think it would be an issue? Figured I'd ask.

Thanks again,
-Nigel

 

[In My Garage]

Alex,

I do have a question. Is there any problems with having these spacers in a way because the piston is not fully in the tube since there is a little spacer there now.

It doesn't matter if the piston is fully inserted or not. If you are concerned about corrosion, lube the part of the piston that will always be exposed due to the carriage being an inch or so off the ground.

The arms and carriage are still resting on the piston by an inch or two where as before they would not be because the piston would be fully in the tube?

The arms and carriage always rest on the collar welded to the outer part of the cylinder. The only difference is the inner piston isn't fully within the outer cylinder and that is not of a concern.

Would you recommend two hockey pucks one on each side of the piston or actually would a smaller piece of ply wood work?

Plywood is fine if you don't want to buy 4 hockey pucks.

 

[jecgarage]

I had same problem as you Alex with the reducer fitting at the base of the hydraulic ram. The threads of this fitting were not cut deep enough so ****** that went into the female end of this would not go in deep enough to seat.

Had leaks with other fittings as well due to above type problem and/or just looseness in mating threads. Had minor weeping at quick disconnect fittings under pressure. QD's would "squirt" about a teaspoon of hydraulic fluid when disconnected at no pressure (lift down).

Replaced all fittings (except those connecting small hose between pump and equalizer) with new Parker Hydraulic fittings, sourced locally. Also replaced supplied QD's with Parker flat type (similar to Faster ones Alex used). The latter are not cheap but are sure nice. Pressure test x 1 hour with no leaks. Used to get puddles quickly. Haven't disconnected the QD's yet.

Thanks for very nice post Alex,

John

Update: 8/17/2013 found new leak. A seal on one of the hydraulic rams has minor leak. I had looked at both seals before putting on new fittings and QD's as described above. Neither was leaking before. Note: I bought this unit new from Dannmar a little over 2 1/2 years ago and did not install it until last week. Don't know if seals could have hardened during the period between purchase and installation. I am including this information if anyone thinks it may be relevant and have any comment. Didn't find much information on leaking MaxJax hydraulic ram seals. If anyone has experience with this please let me know. I'll keep an eye on this for a bit. I would imagine seal replacement should be straightforward if this is needed. The new fittings and new QD's I put in are holding tight without leaks.

John

 

[CactusS4]

BAHH after 3 months of non use, my Max jax is leaking fluid all over the place, but it seems like it's the actual hose itself, the quick connect fitting at the end, not at the threads, but the fitting itself. BOOO Really wanted to wrench on the chevelle this weekend

 

[In My Garage]

BAHH after 3 months of non use, my Max Jax is leaking fluid all over the place, but it seems like it's the actual hose itself, the quick connect fitting at the end, not at the threads, but the fitting itself.

I found my initial slow leaks by wiping the suspect joints down with 91% isopropyl alcohol to dry them. Leaks were easily found then.

As for the quick connect fittings, mine leaked from the cone tip once disconnected. I replaced them with Faster flat face quick couplers...zero...not even a drop...not even mist on the faces.

 

[mitchtr25068]

I had an ever more serious problem than a simple leak out of the same reducer that's pictured at the beginning of this thread. It's the one that screws into the column. Last week, when I was lifting my 68 triumph, when the lift was just about the the top position, I heard a loud popping sound. Then all of a sudden one on the sides of the lift starting coming down very quickly,WITH THE CAR ON IT! Fluid was pouring out of the base on the column at the same time. Because I had been in the process of raising the car, I had not had th chance to put through the safety bars yet. Before I knew it, the car was lying on nearly a ninety degree angle, resting on the drivers side front and rear wheels. Miraculously, it stayed there, with the rocker panels resting on the pads on the side that was now on the ground.

With the help of two friends, we brought it back down, but not without damage on both rocker panels on the passenger and drivers side. As I said, it was a miracle I wasn't killed, although one reason was that it was the column on the side furthest from where I have the motor mounted. It was also a miracle the drivers side of the car wasn't crushed or that it didn't roll over completely.

After taking out the fittings at the bottom of the column, it turned out the reducer had essentially split, perhaps at the point in its threads where it exited the column, or perhaps in its threads inside the column. I replaced the reducer with one sourced at a local hydraulic store today.

I really don't know what to think about the quality of the fittings in the unit now, especially the reducer piece that blew apart in one of my columns. But be advised that you'd better be using those safety bars regularly, as I can tell you if one of those fittings gives way you won't have time to save your car. And I'd really be careful if you get any hint that the fittings are leaking. Mine wasn't leaking beforehand, by the way. Truly frightening.

 

[In My Garage]

^ Photos?

 

[mitchtr25068]

Sorry, it all occurred too quickly to take any photos, although I do have the defective coupling and will photograph it and put it up here when I get the chance.

 

[mitchtr25068]

It was the 1/4 male to 3/8 female coupler pictured at beginning of this thread

 

[In My Garage]

Sorry, it all occurred too quickly to take any photos, although I do have the defective coupling and will photograph it and put it up here when I get the chance.

I would have taken photos for the record and to send to Dannmar.

Who is paying for the repairs due to failure of the defective fittings, if they are indeed defective?

 

[mitchtr25068]

I called danmar last week. The guy very nicely told me my unit was past warranty and that it would cost a little more than $20 for the fitting and shipping. I told him I thought he should speak to his manager and explain everything I described above, and consider sending the fitting for free since I've unsustained a couple of thousand dollars of body and a still-can't-figure out rear suspension issue as a result of this failure. He said he would speak to his manager, but I told him I wanted the piece whether or not they would give it to me for free, and gave him my credit card info. He said he'd speak to his mgr, and the next day the family and I left for a wedding and a few days vacation. Thought I'd see the part in the mail when I returned yesterday, but it wasn't here, so I went to the local power tech hydraulic store and spent the money myself for the parts. I suppose the fitting will likely show up in the mail any day now, and don't know whether danmar will or won't send it for free, but at this point I feel more comfortable having gotten what looks like a better quality fitting locally. By the way, I offered to photograph or event return the fitting to danmar if they wanted.

 

[mitchtr25068]

If you mean who's paying for the repairs to the car, I suppose I could get a lawyer and go to war, but it know what a clusterf-k that will be so I suppose I'm just going to bear that expense myself. I know, I know, I should battle them. It was really sad, because putting the car on the lift was the last step to putting my seat frames back in after taking the whole winter to install new upholstery and carpets in the car, and lifting it was just going to make it easier for me to putt the bolts for the seat rails in from below rather than above. Very depressing

 

[In My Garage]

Imagine if you were seriously hurt for life.

That is the downside to the MaxJax and I thought about a few designs to implement an automatic safety lock that mechanically locks every 6 inches.

I replaced my fittings after the issue I had with one of them.