Maxjax install and lower lifting height questions

[MrFixIt8192]

Hello Garage Journal.

I've decided to take the plunge and order a MaxJax lift for my home garage. I have owned a 5000slx Quickjack for the last eight years and have been extremely happy with it. However, I've lately been working on cars with larger lift points and the 5000 has kind of been retired. I thought about buying a 6000elx Quickjack but then would also need to keep the 5000 and buy the extension frame set.

Anyways, it just made sense to move up to the Maxjax. As it can now accommodate all the vehicles I own with varying lift point spreads without having to have a couple or few sets of the Quickjack to accommodate spreads from 40-75". Plus I can sell my QJ locally and recoup some of the cost.

My garage ceiling is 8'3" which allow me to lift the low height sports cars to full height. Obviously taller vehicles would be less.

My questions...
1. Is there any way to modify the new M6K/M7K MJ to have a minimum lift height lower than 24"?
- On the original Danmar units, the lift heights were determined by a steel bar that went through the columns. You could drill new holes in the column to essentially make any lift height that you wanted. I have a lifted Cayenne that may actually hit the ceiling before it got to the 24" minimum height or first safety catch.

2. What is the preferred product and method for anchoring the columns now a days? Seems like everyone who has used the wedge anchors has issues. Has any one NOT had issues using the included wedge anchors?

- I've made a template of the base. plate and drilled 5 small pilot holes where they will be sitting. I measured and confirmed 4.2"-4.5" of concrete where the base plates will be. The inside column will be 10" from the wall and both will be 12" from any cracks or surface imperfections. I am the original owner of the home and we built it 25 years ago so I know it's 3000psi mix.

Speaking with MJ technical, they tell me that the epoxy anchors and included wedge anchors can both be safely be used in a minimum concrete depth of 4.00". Knowing how expoy anchors work, it doesn't seem like putting a 6.25" OAL epoxy anchor into 4.2-4.5" concrete would work correctly? The bottom two inches of the anchor would be in the void below the concrete not epoxied to anything. Again, the technical service rep claimed that their engineering team said that this was safe and OK.

Looking at Wej-it, I see a PS-12 epoxy anchor. I've copied the specs for for the PD58 wedge anchor that MJ includes in the kit, albeit it's not the Wej-it brand but a knock-off with the same specs. The PS-12 has a OAL of 3 & 11/16 with would work fully with the concrete depth thst I have instead of the 6.25" epoxy anchor that QJ sells and also has similar, if not better strength.

EPOXY PS2-12 carbon steel
* 1/2-13 thread
* 5/8 diameter
* 3 11/16 length
* 3 3/4 min embed
* 5/8 drill bit

Fast-set Ultimate AWF (all weather) 4,000 psi 4,000 psi
15,110 13,110



WEDGE PD58
* 5/8-11 thread
* 5/8 diameter
* 3 13/16 length
* 3 3/4 min embed
* 7/8 drill bit

Allowable 3,000psi
Tension Shear
2220 2970

Ultimate 3,000psi
Tension Shear
8800 11880

Allowable 4,000 psi
Tension Shear
4125 2970

Ultimate 4,000 psi
Tension Shear
16500 11880

 

[regguy1]

The newer MAX JAX have automatic locks so you can just stop it wherever you'd like.
I have an older one without automatic locks. The MJ allows full undercar access, you'll like it better than QJ. (see photo)

I have wedge anchors, very important to clean the holes thoroughly, any dust or grit from drilling will impede the "bite" of the anchor.
I used industrial epoxy with my wedge anchors (14 years and no problems)
Here is my MJ installation thread, I have section on installing the anchors: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/maxjax-lift-installed.71225/

 

[wake74]

The automatic locks are not just stop wherever. While you can obviously let go of the up button to stop wherever, it will be setting on the hydraulics until you lower the arms back onto the last stop. I’ve never counted the locking locations on the way up, maybe 6?

I’m not aware of a way to add a stop point below the factory minimum. You’d have to take the lift apart, and fabricate / replicate another stopping point on the back of the ram (part that goes up and down).

 

[regguy1]

The automatic locks are not just stop wherever. While you can obviously let go of the up button to stop wherever, it will be setting on the hydraulics until you lower the arms back onto the last stop. I’ve never counted the locking locations on the way up, maybe 6?

I’m not aware of a way to add a stop point below the factory minimum. You’d have to take the lift apart, and fabricate / replicate another stopping point on the back of the ram (part that goes up and down).

I have a set of adjustable height mid rise jack stands, I can put them under the lift arms (just one on each side) and tighten up the screw and they hold the entire weight of the car (I can rotate the safety bars) if you can find a set of low rise stands that might solve your issue.

 

[MrFixIt8192]

The newer MAX JAX have automatic locks so you can just stop it wherever you'd like.
I have an older one without automatic locks. The MJ allows full undercar access, you'll like it better than QJ. (see photo)

I have wedge anchors, very important to clean the holes thoroughly, any dust or grit from drilling will impede the "bite" of the anchor.
I used industrial epoxy with my wedge anchors (14 years and no problems)
Here is my MJ installation thread, I have section on installing the anchors: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/maxjax-lift-installed.71225/

The newer MAX JAX have automatic locks so you can just stop it wherever you'd like.
I have an older one without automatic locks. The MJ allows full undercar access, you'll like it better than QJ. (see photo)

I have wedge anchors, very important to clean the holes thoroughly, any dust or grit from drilling will impede the "bite" of the anchor.
I used industrial epoxy with my wedge anchors (14 years and no problems)
Here is my MJ installation thread, I have section on installing the anchors: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/maxjax-lift-installed.71225/

Thanks for that response and I'll check out your thread as well

I did see that this newer version has the 7 automatic locks/ catches but they are as follows according to MJ.
23.648in
26.408in
29.168in
31.928in
34.68in
37.44in
40.2in
42.96in
45.77in

Otherwise if you stop before 23.6", it will be resting on hydraulic pressure.

Also good to hear about the wedge anchors. Seen a lot of negative comments about these but you never know how steadily the hole was drilled and cleaned out. A lot of of bad rep could be from incorrect or poor user error.

 

[MrFixIt8192]

The automatic locks are not just stop wherever. While you can obviously let go of the up button to stop wherever, it will be setting on the hydraulics until you lower the arms back onto the last stop. I’ve never counted the locking locations on the way up, maybe 6?

I’m not aware of a way to add a stop point below the factory minimum. You’d have to take the lift apart, and fabricate / replicate another stopping point on the back of the ram (part that goes up and down).

It does look like there's 7 safety catches from 23.6" to 45.7". Really wish that they were a couple at around 12-18". It was definitely easy to add a couple of extra stop points on the original Danmar units but doesn't sound so easy on the newer ones.

 

[MrFixIt8192]

I have a set of adjustable height mid rise jack stands, I can put them under the lift arms (just one on each side) and tighten up the screw and they hold the entire weight of the car (I can rotate the safety bars) if you can find a set of low rise stands that might solve your issue.

Thanks for the idea on the stands! May have to look into something like this if it can't be modified easily to add in a couple of lower height stops.

 

[regguy1]

It does look like there's 7 safety catches from 23.6" to 45.7". Really wish that they were a couple at around 12-18". It was definitely easy to add a couple of extra stop points on the original Danmar units but doesn't sound so easy on the newer ones.

at 12-18" you can just buy a couple jack stands of correct height and put the under the lift arms and release the hyd pressure , they'll hold up the car.

 

[djbmw]

Are you dead set on MaxJax?
If you're able to get your hands on an older screw drive baseplate lift, you can stop it absolutely anywhere in its travel and it's "locked in/safe".
Example:

 

[YOM1963]

With a ceiling height around 8 feet (i have the same issue) we are limited by the column height

 

[djbmw]

With a ceiling height around 8 feet (i have the same issue) we are limited by the column height

Several models (not all) of the Hofmann screw drive lift columns are 7' tall and fit well within 8' ceilings. They're just hard to come by and are generally older (90's era). I also believe Mowhawk made some baseplate screw type lifts as well.

 

[MikeC55]

I went straight to epoxy anchors after reading about the many problems people have had with the wedge anchors. In 10 years, no issues. I did retrofit a thicker slab (12" rebar reinforced) of 5 ' x 12' to take full advange of the epoxy insert length. 12" was overkill, but it gives me piece of mind.

 

[kngelv]

I tried to do a Max Jax earlier this year but upon install found one part of my slab was not thick enough. Rather than bust open the floor and pour new footings I ended up returning it and getting a 4-post lift. Inspect your Max Jax thoroughly. Mine had a warped baseplate which I'm guessing was from too hot a weld on the column to plate connection. I got the Backyard Buddy Classic which is made out of USA and Canadian steel, and is assembled in Ohio. Minimum lift height is 18" with lock positions every 5" up to a top lock of 63". the lift is 81" high so it will fit in your garage. I have a 8'6" ceiling. I'm glad I went with the 4-post as it is a bit more flexible than a two post.

James

 

[olytdi]

I've had my MaxJax since the group buy in...what...2013? Can't remember. Anyway, I first installed it in my shop with 3 1/2" slab floor with the mechanical Wejit anchors with no problems. I think I might of had to grind down one anchor that lifted an eighth.

I then moved to my current residence and built a new shop. I installed the MaxJax about a year ago in my new 5 inch slab. I bought the Wejit anchors once again and once again had no problems whatsoever with the anchors. You must drill straight and you must clean the holes very well -- both of which are not hard to do. Got the bit from HD and the hammer drill from HF -- both were used on both installs.

I lift a TDI Golf, a Chevy Silverado, and a John Deere 1 series tractor with no problems. I ALWAYS use 2 ton mid-height jack stands fore and aft in addition to the steel stop bars through the columns.

If I needed more height choices, I'd drill holes in the columns for the bars -- I would imagine you can do this with your newer jack(?).

Over 10 years using the MaxJax with ZERO problems except stripping out the bleeder screw (2$ fix), and having some problems early on with one side not lowering (fixed by lowering SLOWLY and probably also by things just wearing in over time).

Great product, has saved me so much $$ doing my own wrenching.