Maxjax installation help - shimming.

[petee_c]

Hey Guys/Gals,

I live in Canada, about 1.5hrs WNW of Buffalo, NY. Got a Maxjax from Costco.

- Looks like I have 4.0" of Concrete in my garage floor. My Garage is sloped towards the doors for drainage of melting snow from the vehicles in the winter.

- The spots I picked out require up to 3/16- 1/4" shimming to get the posts perfectly plumb, or at least the bubble in the center of my level.

- why the limitations on the shimming? Not enough threads in the anchor?

I don't have my printed manual with me, but online it says that you're allowed a front - back slope of 1.5" over 20 ft... I'm metric math, but to me that looks like a variance of just over 1/16" over 1 foot.

Basically, I will need a combination of 0,1,2,3 shims at the 5 hole locations to get the posts perfectly plumb.

I'd also like to use a piece of 1/8" flat stock across the front of the plate. to take out any rocking....

P

 

[Dolfan]

1/8" plate across the entire front of the post sounds a bit much to me, but I'm not the designing engineer. I'd try to check with Dannmar on this.

The shimming is the one thing I'm not to excited about in the setup, especially given it is designed as a mobile tool so that means replacing the shims when ever it is moved. I'm lucky that I don't really move mine, and in the future I'm most likely only to move one and that one needed next to no shims.

Is it possible to move you location maybe just a inch or two and require less shimming?

 

[StingRay]

I'd grind a small level relief into the floor at each post location before I'd shim every time. It's only going to be a 1/4" deep at one edge. Is there any restriction on doing that? It might not look wonderful on the floor but it's gonna be full of holes anyway.

 

[TimGrz]

I'm not crazy with the idea of constantly reusing the anchors in the concrete.

I understand the reason for the anchors for use in an existing garage, but I wish they made a "under slab" plate that could be installed prior to the slab being poured.

/tg

 

[petee_c]

I'd grind a small level relief into the floor at each post location before I'd shim every time. It's only going to be a 1/4" deep at one edge. Is there any restriction on doing that? It might not look wonderful on the floor but it's gonna be full of holes anyway.

That sounds like a plan.... I'll check with some contacts at Dannmarr by email and might go with that....

I'll probably mount something like this in my 4 1/2" angle grinder..... Buy a few, don't know how fast they would wear....

http://www.princessauto.com/worksho...essories/8135196-4-1/2-masonry-grinding-wheel

I might be able to just take 1/8-3/16" off the high 'corner' and feather it out away from the post so there's no lip..... Would definitely cut down on shimming...

I don't want to take away too much as my floor appears to be 4" thick....

I'm away over the weekend, probably won't be ready until next weekend to drill and install the anchors anyways.... gives me time to explore my options.....

Peter

 

[StingRay]

You might be better off wtith a more agressive wheel on a bigger grinder. You can rent a bigger grinder with a diamond wheel on it that will make quick work of it. If it's ok to do this and you go ahead you could use a bit of epoxy floor paint where the aggregate has been exposed and paint in a block. Put a little yellow border to make it look fancy and official.

 

[jdub63]

I would second the yellow stripe....with my walking ability, I would probably trip over that 1/4 inch notch.

 

[StingRay]

I think the idea to feather the edge is a good one. It will minimize the tripping hazzard and any issues rolling over it. Still would be ugly and some paint could help with that.

 

[petee_c]

Hi all, got the new 'footings' poured, and they've cured for 4+ weeks.

I've got the pads levelled so that there is minimal to no shimming, and the posts are very, very close to plumb.

I was eyeing up where they sit, and got the laser level out to check elevation. Looks like my driver side post/pad is almost 3/8" lower than the passenger side one.

Is this a big deal?

The posts will be 126" apart (from outside edge -edge)

Should I just put a piece of square plywood on top of the rubber lift pad to even it up or just leave it.


I'm almost ready to rent the SDS drill again for try #2

 

[wuck]

Hi all, got the new 'footings' poured, and they've cured for 4+ weeks.

I've got the pads levelled so that there is minimal to no shimming, and the posts are very, very close to plumb.

I was eyeing up where they sit, and got the laser level out to check elevation. Looks like my driver side post/pad is almost 3/8" lower than the passenger side one.

Is this a big deal?

The posts will be 126" apart (from outside edge -edge)

Should I just put a piece of square plywood on top of the rubber lift pad to even it up or just leave it.


I'm almost ready to rent the SDS drill again for try #2

There are a few reports posted here of MaxJax lifting uneven, in some cases up to 4". Danmar specs this at <1.5", I wouldn't worry about 3/8".

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42844

I just assembled my recently received lift, haven't bolted it down yet, but I'm seeing up to a 2" difference unloaded. Couldn't get a 7/8" bit locally, so I have one on order.

Pat