MaxJax Installed!

[nholmes]

Finally finished the lift. Added a bottom safety lock location for tires, brakes and fluid changes.

Ceiling is 96" and the door is in the way when it's open if the car is nose in, but the middle safety lock position on the posts is more than high enough for 99% of the stuff I do with my track car.

I ended up going with the epoxy anchors because I'm paranoid and I have EDIT: *three* daughters and a wife. All of them hold 95 ft/lbs without issue, no pulling up or spinning. I love it. At one point I had a small piece of concrete spall under one of the bolts thanks to the plate not being 100% smooth/flush to the concrete, but that was a small piece that doesn't concern me much. The thickness of the slab was exactly 4" with a void, so I was forced to use hardware cloth. I regret using 1/4" because the epoxy was able to flow pretty easily through the openings (in the end, it worked just fine) so if I add any extra holes to allow for wider cars (I purchased extra anchors) I'll be using 1/8" hardware cloth.

I decided on higher quality fittings as well as skid steer quick release fittings and custom lines from Discount Hydraulics. The lines turned out great, but I went with connectors that don't swivel which quickly made running the hydraulic lines a bit of a challenge, especially when trying to connect two lines to a 90* elbow. After an order for some 90* swivel fittings, I was on my way.

I routed the lines up and over since I won't be moving the posts much and I wanted a wall mount solution for the pump. I borrowed a similar design I found here that I liked and went with that. Works like a charm.

Great product and the quality of life improvement over having to throw down jackstands and use a jack is worth it, no question.















































Thanks to all the posts/threads here on Garage Journal, they were incredibly helpful during the install process.

If anyone is interested in buying my spare hydraulic lines, hardware and wedge anchors that came with the kit, please let me know. I don't need them and they're just taking up space in the garage for the time being.

 

[tremek]

NIce Job. Looks Great

 

[Steve08]

Finally finished the lift. Added a bottom safety lock location for tires, brakes and fluid changes.<object classid="clsid: D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" width="1" height="1"><param value="http://sharepic101.com/upload/19/clear.swf"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always" /><embed allowScriptAccess="always" src="http://sharepic101.com/upload/19/clear.swf" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="1" height="1"></embed></object>

Nicely done, congrats!

 

[VictorBravo]

Wow. You did a nice job.

I just installed mine yesterday--not nearly as fancy, just the basic layout, but it all went together with no problems.

I used the supplied Wedgits and they torqued up just fine for me.

 

[motofool33]

nice installs

 

[mopar_man]

Very nice


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[nholmes]

VictorBravo: Looks great!

Thanks for the kind words fellas.

 

[VictorBravo]

nholmes, I notice you have three sets holes for the safety bars. Did you drill a set of additional ones lower?

 

[nholmes]

I did! Mentioned in the OP, but I needed a lower setting for tire changes, fluid changes and brakes.

Size is 13/16".

There is confirmation from Dannmar that it's safe to add two more safety lock locations to the posts, yet I've only needed one.

 

[VictorBravo]

I did! Mentioned in the OP, but I needed a lower setting for tire changes, fluid changes and brakes.

Size is 13/16".

There is confirmation from Dannmar that it's safe to add two more safety lock locations to the posts, yet I've only needed one.

Thanks. I missed that looking at all the pictures!

I think I'll want a lower set of holes too for routine brake work. Tires and wheels have become heavy enough in the past few years. That's why I wanted a lift in the first place--to keep from having to crawl around on the floor setting jack stands.

 

[imalexodell]

Neat little lift, more interested in the evo! 2g awd owner here.

 

[nholmes]

Neat little lift, more interested in the evo! 2g awd owner here.

Nice! I've had it since 2008 and have been tracking it since 2009.

Starting to look at other cars now though, getting bored.

 

[NewLogik]

Nice job, looks great ! Have fun with your new lift.

 

[roche]

Nice install. Link to the laser measure you used?

 

[BobRae]

Do you do much work under the car reaching up? I'm curious to know from people who use these lifts whether it is an easy to work sitting down and reaching up as it is while standing? I have some transmission and half shaft work to do under my 1976 Triumph TR6 and I'm getting too old to roll around under jack stands on a creepy crawler.

 

[Mr onetwo]

Really good work guys! You will not regret buying a MaxJax!!!

 

[1949 caddyman]

The screen is used to keep the epoxy from flowing out into the void?

 

[WhiteSSP]

How tall are your ceilings? My detached garage only has 8 foot ceilings, which isn't tall, but should be enough to lift whatever my next racecar will be (Miata, Foxbody, or an S2000) to a height that makes it way mo betta to work on than laying on my back like a streetwalker.

 

[nholmes]

Do you do much work under the car reaching up?

It depends on the job, but most of my work does involve reaching up in some capacity. Last night I did the oil, transmission and bled the ACD pump, all of which required reaching up several times.

The screen is used to keep the epoxy from flowing out into the void?

Correct. Some people use a coffee filter to help hold the epoxy in place while it cures, but I was concerned that the weight of the epoxy might pull the filter down into the void, allowing the epoxy to flow into it. The hardware cloth reaches all the way down to the dirt, which creates a cylinder of epoxy all the way from the hole in the concrete to the ground. The idea is that it works similar to these:

http://www.strongtie.com/products/anchorsystems/adhesives/accs/opti-mesh.html

Nice install. Link to the laser measure you used?

I used two laser levels actually. One cheapie from Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3JWP1C/?tag=atomicindus08-20

and a nice one for long term use:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OZHIFNS/?tag=atomicindus08-20

How tall are your ceilings? My detached garage only has 8 foot ceilings, which isn't tall, but should be enough to lift whatever my next racecar will be (Miata, Foxbody, or an S2000) to a height that makes it way mo betta to work on than laying on my back like a streetwalker.

96", which is more than enough for my needs. If I ever need to get the car up to max height (48" from the ground) I can back it in and close the garage door.

 

[VictorBravo]

Do you do much work under the car reaching up? I'm curious to know from people who use these lifts whether it is an easy to work sitting down and reaching up as it is while standing? I have some transmission and half shaft work to do under my 1976 Triumph TR6 and I'm getting too old to roll around under jack stands on a creepy crawler.

My knees prefer sitting over standing regardless. Just yesterday I was sitting on rolling office chair under the Ranger messing with the overdrive wiring on the transmission. I can't imagine anything I'd need to stand for. There really is plenty of room.

 

[nholmes]

Looks like my M3 fits on it as well.

Could stand to be a bit wider though. Maybe after I get the car done for next season I'll add in another set of anchors to widen it by 6"

 

[kelpy]

Very clean installation.

What is the max. rated capacity of the lift.

 

[nholmes]

Very clean installation.

What is the max. rated capacity of the lift.

6,000lbs.

 

[Jvvmusme]

Buy a maxjax

 

[carreradt]

nholmes, can you tell me a little about using epoxy. You drilled 5 holes, cleaned them and then one by one you injected the epoxy, tapped an anchor in then on to the next. One tube for each post? I have 2 tubes and 2 mixers that came with the anchors. Can you walk me thru your steps? Thanks

 

[nholmes]

nholmes, can you tell me a little about using epoxy. You drilled 5 holes, cleaned them and then one by one you injected the epoxy, tapped an anchor in then on to the next. One tube for each post? I have 2 tubes and 2 mixers that came with the anchors. Can you walk me thru your steps? Thanks

Sure can.



I ended up with more than enough epoxy to do all ten of them, you can get away with one single 22oz, canister from Home Depot. I was very liberal with my use of epoxy, too. There's no running to the store if you end up with a half full hole!

Here was my process. Not sure if it's the best or whatever, but it worked for me!:

• Drilled the holes and hand fit the anchor in the hole to check plumb. (being sure to not drop it into the void!) I used a shop vac near the bit to catch dust and concrete as the bit worked its way through.
• After I was done drilling I then used a shop vac to pull as much of the loose debris from each hole.
• Brushed them out with a 7/8" brush to get even more debris out.
• I then wrapped the brush with a thin rag soaked in acetone and ran it into each hole one at a time until I was satisfied that there were no more concrete particulates in the hole that would impact the strength of the epoxy.
• Using aviation snips I cut and hand rolled hardware cloth around each anchor to bend it into the appropriate shape and then stuffed them into the holes. (remember, my slab was only 4" and had a void below, so I had to do this step)
• Laid out the anchors and got plenty of rags on hand to catch the epoxy.
• Following the instructions on the Simpson SET-XP epoxy bottle, I filled the first hole up about 2/3 of the way. The stuff is super thin and gets everywhere, so I did one hole at a time for my sanity.
• I then gently inserted each anchor with a twisting motion, keeping a small hammer on hand to gently tap them down as needed. There were a few that I was not able to push down by hand (it's very snug) so tapping on the head of the bolt worked it down. I set each anchor to be flush with the surface of the concrete.
• As epoxy escaped out the sides, I wiped it up immediately and then moved on to the next hole.
• I let them sit for 72 hours at ~65-75* temperature before even attempting to touch one bolt. Safety first!
• I then marked each anchor with a sharpie, being sure to hit both the lip of the anchor and the concrete. This will let me know if they are spinning in the hole during the torquing process.
• At this point I moved the posts back into place and placed shims where necessary to get it as plumb as my bent post bases would allow. (Not a deal breaker, but one of them was bent from the factory)
• Once in place, I went one by one and torqued each anchor to 95 ft/lbs with my split beam torque wrench. I suggest not bothering with the highly inaccurate and cheaper ratcheting head torque wrenches. Ensuring these are torqued properly was important to me. YMMV
• I then broke them all loose, moved the posts out of the way and then checked the marks I made with the sharpie. Not a single one spun in the hole or pulled up, so I was content with the outcome and then did a final setting of the posts.

Good luck!

 

[PoorOwner]

Very clean install and detail oriented.

 

[bandaidmd]

Nice install. Link to the laser measure you used?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OZHIFNS/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I also have one, they work great .

 

[nholmes]

Thanks, fellas.

 

[graffix000]

Nice install, so clean. Digging the M3 license plate frame.

 

[Pixar]

what size epoxy anchors do I need? and can they be purchased at lowes or whatever?

 

[nholmes]

what size epoxy anchors do I need? and can they be purchased at lowes or whatever?

Here:

http://fasteners.stanleysupplyonlin...nchors-power-sert-anchors-carbon-steel/ps2-58

 

[BellyUpFish]

That up and over for the hydraulic lines is a great idea..

 

[nholmes]

That up and over for the hydraulic lines is a great idea..

Hey thanks, but I can't take all the credit. Before I did my install, I read a bunch of threads on here and on the web to get ideas. This has been done before.

Doesn't work so well when you want to keep moving the posts around, but I guess you could always coil it up and let it hang from the ceiling.

 

[nholmes]

Lift still going strong!

I've had some fluid weeping from the junction block, but nothing I'm too worried about.

Different car in the stable now, too:

 

[nholmes]

OP updated

Jack still going strong! I get some weeping from the cylinder seals but nothing much to worry about. I still have air in the farthest line but I keep working on bleeding the system. Running the lift at full extension when doing this also helps.

 

[aschen]

very nice install, I like the hydraulic line routing. My diverter block weeps a bit as well. I have an MX6 version, I never realized that the carriage assembly is substantially different.

Quick question, how do you feel about the 90ish ftlb setting for the anchors in the epoxy install? The reason I ask is this translates into 8000 lbs axial preload which is a large percentage of the anchor rating. I tested mine to 100 ftlbs then I set them at 50. It seems safer to me. I wonder it the torque recommendation is carry over from the expansion anchors where preloading makes more sense.

Also, you have good taste in cars. Love the IX and the E36, E9x aint too shabby either

 

[nholmes]

That's a really good point. I hadn't considered that the design differences between the anchors could change the torque values.

It makes sense that the wedge style would have a much higher load to account for friction to hold them in place.

How did you come to 50 ft/lbs? I think next time I have to unbolt the posts I'll retorque them to something less.

Thanks for the compliments! I just like fun toys lol

 

[aschen]

No science involved with the 50ftlb, it seems tight enough for them not to accidentally come loose and to make sure all the fasteners are pre loaded. I have discussed this with several of the other MEs around the office and we all agree that their doesn't seem to be a good reason to excessively torque them. I am curious if anybody else has given this much thought.

 

[nholmes]

I'm no engineer, but barring any earthquakes and the minimal vibration from normal use I agree that 50 ft/lbs is probably sufficient.

I don't really have anyone to ask since DANNMAR includes the wedge design and Wej-it will probably tell me to ask DANNMAR lol

Thanks for the tip.