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MaxJax... just completed install

DonnyT

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Dec 15, 2012
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Upstate
Hey guys, I just completed the install of my MaxJax. This thing is great! I do have one question though. Anyone have to retighten their bolts after the first lift?? My anchors set up correctly with no issues. They locked in the hole almost immediately and probably are 1/2" down. I installed grade 8 bolts 2 1/4 " long, 1/4" longer than the bolts supplied which are grade 5 and 2".
 
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In My Garage

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I do have one question though. Anyone have to retighten their bolts after the first lift??

Not in my case, but I have read some having to do so. It may be that the anchor set itself while being tensioned and after that, no further tightening was required.

Someone I know had the anchors simply turn and they were unable to tighten them. They ended up setting another style of anchor in the concrete with epoxy.
 
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DonnyT

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Thanks Alex for the reply. My anchors appear to be solid at this point and no problems with spinning.
 

FlameOut

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Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Donny, I had to re-snug my bolts after I used the lift the first time. Not very much, maybe like an 1/8 of a turn. Haven't had to since though and I've had my lift since the initial group buy. This is the best thing I've bought for my garage :)
 
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DonnyT

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Hey thanks everyone for the replies, really appreciate it. Also, I did have to shim the posts a good bit using washers as well. I also noticed the posts go a little out of level when I raise the car ( I put a level on the posts before and after lift). There is definitely a little movement. Seems solid though.
 

FlameOut

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I also have a little flex when I have my car on the lift at full height. I had a magnetic level attached and had a very small gap at the top of the level. I'm guessing it's normal. Mine was maybe an 1/8"
 
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DonnyT

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Some pics
 

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olytdi

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Dec 3, 2011
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Olympia, Washington
I don't think I've had a re-torque issue...maybe I should check!

Mine has a significant amount of column flex when under load -- like 3/8" over the entire column length. Unnerving at first but Dannmar assured me that this is normal.

Best thing I did was to wall mount the power unit and run the lines straight up to the trusses -- nothing in the way -- nice and tidy.

Congrats and enjoy!
 
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DonnyT

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couple more
 

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NewShockerGuy

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Oct 12, 2010
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Awesome!! I want to mount my max jax on the wall like you did but didn't know how! This is excellent. What materials did you use and also where did you get the longer hydralic line fo rthe right post?

Thanks so much! Looks awesome!!

-Nigel
 
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DonnyT

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Awesome!! I want to mount my max jax on the wall like you did but didn't know how! This is excellent. What materials did you use and also where did you get the longer hydralic line fo rthe right post?

Thanks so much! Looks awesome!!

-Nigel

Nigel Thanks. I simply used 2x4's to mount to the wall studs and the mounting plate for the pump that came with the handtruck. I used Gates Global Mega 3000 6M3K hose. It has a 2.5 inch bend radius and is easy to work with. Its rated at 3250 psi. I ordered 26' based on my set-up. I installed the post 126" apart (from rear plate). I believe the company was JGB hose. You have to be careful when ordering the hose. They try to substitute the old stock which is rated at 3000 psi and not labled Mega 3000.
 
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demoderbydave

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Nov 4, 2010
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Spencer Mass
Nice job! I have had mine for over 2 years now set up the way you did yours and have had no problems. I check my mounting bolts occasionally (100 ft lbs) and they hardly move. I do notice that the colum with the longer hose lifts/lowers a little slower than the close one but not enough to wory about it. I am surprise Dannmar doesn't make a "permanant" install kit by now! :3gears:
 
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In My Garage

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Absolutely!

Because the way it operates now, the car can come down if the hydraulics fail during lift operation. I was thinking about a one-way valve at the cylinder (with a bypass valve to lower the lift), but then you still have a cylinder seal that can fail.

Thats why I'd like a mechanical safety...and I have one all designed up in my noggin. It would be an add-on...no mods to the MaxJax necessary.
 

GRN96WS6

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Dec 23, 2012
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SOMD
I didn't see it on the specs but what does it use for power? I don't think it's simply a 110 outlet?
 

In My Garage

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I didn't see it on the specs but what does it use for power? I don't think it's simply a 110 outlet?

I have my MaxJax plugged into a standard 110V 15A outlet. That is the plug that came with the MaxJax motor.

From the MaxJax Instruction Manual Rev C 2-2012

  • The standard power unit for your lift is 110/220 volt, 50/60hz, single phase. The lift should be plugged into a dedicated circuit with a 30 amp circuit breaker.
  • For 110-120 volt, single phase, use a 30 amp breaker.
  • For 208 -230 volt, single phase, use a 25 amp breaker.

I don't know how a 120V - 15A (5-15P) plug would fit into a 30 amp (5-30R) wall receptacle?

Dannmar got back to me to clear up the confusion and stated to plug it into a 20A outlet. I don't know how a 120V - 15A (5-15P) plug would fit into that outlet either.

Anyway, it works just fine on a regular outlet.
 
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DonnyT

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Upstate
Its not something I should put off, but I have so many projects on the go, it'll be added to the list.

I know what you mean, LOL. I would also like to put magnetic torpedo levels on the columns. I wish I could find ones with sound, or an alarm of some sort built in. This way if the columns move or shift enough, the torpedo alarm will sound (out of level) and alert me to check them. Overkill I guess.
 

In My Garage

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I would also like to put magnetic torpedo levels on the columns.

I placed a 2-foot level on my columns and looked at the indication unloaded and loaded at full extension.

The bubble just touches the line on the inside and then the outside respectively. Perfect!
 
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DonnyT

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Upstate
I placed a 2-foot level on my columns and looked at the indication unloaded and loaded at full extension.

The bubble just touches the line on the inside and then the outside respectively. Perfect!

Same here. Good to know. I will however keep an eye on the bolts to see if they loosen up at all. So far, so good.
 

In My Garage

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I will however keep an eye on the bolts to see if they loosen up at all. So far, so good.

Donny, the very slight change in the indication of the level is normal. It is the columns deflecting under load.

I can't say with 100% certainty, but I think the principle of those anchors holding is that they "wedge" due to an expansion in the base of the fastener and for that to happen, they need to remain tight.

Whereas in my setup, much of a torque isn't needed. Its not like I am clamping anything. I torqued mine to 60 lbf.ft. and initially much less.
 

Jvvmusme

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Sep 25, 2011
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Bogota, Colombia
I have my MaxJax plugged into a standard 110V 15A outlet. That is the plug that came with the MaxJax motor.

From the MaxJax Instruction Manual Rev C 2-2012

  • The standard power unit for your lift is 110/220 volt, 50/60hz, single phase. The lift should be plugged into a dedicated circuit with a 30 amp circuit breaker.
  • For 110-120 volt, single phase, use a 30 amp breaker.
  • For 208 -230 volt, single phase, use a 25 amp breaker.

I don't know how a 120V - 15A (5-15P) plug would fit into a 30 amp (5-30R) wall receptacle?

Dannmar got back to me to clear up the confusion and stated to plug it into a 20A outlet. I don't know how a 120V - 15A (5-15P) plug would fit into that outlet either.

Anyway, it works just fine on a regular outlet.

I plugged my Maxjax to the only outlet I had in the garage. 15A I assume. Have no problem. When using an extension I need a heavy gauge extension, but works perfect. No mistery.
 

DB2

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Jan 2, 2009
Messages
57
Location
Houston, Texas
While the MaxJax is a great product, and Danamar a very responsive company, someone at Danmar just doesn't understand electricity and electrical wiring codes.

For a couple years, they maintained that by wiring the motor for 240V, the unit would draw double the current that the 120V unit would draw. This misinformation was even printed in the early Maxjax manuals.
 
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