MaxJax owners: placement considerations?

[Flargen]

Hey all,

I've got a 20x20 attached garage (with a 6x11 extension in the back-right corner, as seen from the driveway), and finally pulled the trigger on a Dannmar M-6 as a birthday present for myself. It arrives early next week, and although I've read through a number of install threads/posts, I've still got a few outstanding questions:

1. Any regrets regarding column placement? I know it's not a huge deal to install more anchors to have multiple positions, but I'd rather minimize the number of holes I put in my slab (and consequently plug with bolts when not in use). At this point I'm considering placing one column at the far right side, as close as it can be to the wall while clearing the hydraulic line, so that I have some hope of parking in the left bay while it's deployed... but part of me wants to place the anchors in a fashion that the lifted vehicle will be smack-dab in the middle of the garage. Thoughts on either option?
2. Any tips regarding post spread? I generally work on sports cars, sedans, and small SUV's (the largest being an FZJ100 as of late), so I was thinking at most 120" spread (outside edge to outside edge) based on the manual, which is the minimum recommended width for full-size vehicles. That'd make its footprint pretty much half the width of my garage, and would allow me to still park in the left bay if a project dragged on longer than anticipated.

Any other thoughts or tips? I'd like to have a game plan and start drilling before it arrives to make sure the slab is thick enough (as I'd have to shell out $700+ for a GPR scan).

Thanks in advance!

 

[97dynaglide]

I have a MaxJax and I like room to work and move around, so my vote is to have the lift smack in the middle of the garage.
And with a 20x20 space to work, that's tight for space as it is in the front and rear of a vehicle, I wouldn't want a 3rd side restricted as well.

If you have the one column so close to the wall, you won't be able to go to the front or rear of the vehicle on that side when the arms are out with a car on them, so you will always have to walk all the way around the car to get the next size socket or wrench....

 

[97dynaglide]

As far as column spread, I waited until I had the lift and set it up to be sure I could reach all of the lift points of our vehicles I anticipated lifting before I drilled.
I'm glad I did as what I thought would be enough spacing according to the 'guidelines' to reach the points on my full size GMC truck, wasn't correct. I needed a bit more.

 

[c4cruiser]

One thing to consider is the height of the vehicle(s). When I installed my MaxJax, I made sure that the post were placed so that the top of my cars missed the garage door opener. I have a 9-1/2 foot garage ceiling and the cars (both Corvettes) clear the opener motor.

Another thing is to be sure the concrete garage floor is thick enough to allow the anchors to grip solidly. When I did a test drill, I found my floor was only 2-1/2" thick; the specs for the floor called for 4" thick using 3000psi concrete. So I had to have a crew come out and they cut out 4'x4' sections and replaced with 12" thick pads with 5000psi concrete. I used 7" epoxy anchors instead of the ones provided with the MaxJax. Also, make sure there are no cracks in your floor that are within 6"-8" of the pad locations.

My posts are 122" apart and centered on the new 4' slabs. The new poured slabe were also anchored to the existing floor with rebar.

 

[artrem]

I have my columns 135" apart. Placement in my 3rd bay was dictated by the locations of the expansion joints. According to Dannmar, the anchors must be at least 6 inches from any seam, crack, joint or wall. I also replaced the OEM garage door openers with jackshaft openers to give me more ceiling clearance.

 

[Flargen]

Thanks for the input, guys.

97dynaglide - That's a really good point... Honestly, I'd have to remove some shelving anyway to accommodate it, but would be leaving a 24" deep set (where large tools like the table saw, chop saws, etc are stored) in-place that would undoubtedly make it a pain to work around. Not to mention suspension work would be insanely cramped on that side.

c4cruiser - Fortunately, I installed a LiftMaster 8500 jackshaft opener (like artrem suggested) a while back as part of my garage remodel in order to clear the center of the ceiling for an in-ceiling ductless mini-split cassette. Regarding slab thickness, I don't have any expansion joints, and only a couple miniscule hairline cracks that are nowhere near where the posts will likely end up being placed. Worst-case, I am prepared to cut and re-pour the slab where necessary for the lift (which may give me an excuse to epoxy the floor anyway). I've talked to a friend up in IL who has a MaxJax, and he convinced me to buy a proper hammer drill to ensure the holes are neat and true for the drop-in anchors (which multiple lift installers have insisted are plenty... if drilled correctly).

artrem - You lucky ******* with your 3-bay garage...

At some point in the near future, I'll be having my driveway re-poured as part of a drainage control effort around the entire house. Hopefully we'll be able to make the primary slab flat enough to drop some anchors outside to use the lift on larger/longer vehicles.

Thanks again for the input. I'm ridiculously excited to get this thing in and installed. Seems overdue given how many friends have basically said "about damn time" when I've told them about it. Apparently they've watched me struggle for too long.

 

[Flargen]

One last question: are the frame cradle pads worth the investment for vehicles under 5,000 lbs?

https://www.maxjaxusa.com/frame-cradle-pads.html

Most cars I work on are unibodies, but ladder frames will occasionally find their way into the garage.

 

[junkyardwarrior]

I picked up the same lift and have started some of the sub-assembly. Of course, this goes on after work, and I live alone so there's plenty to do between commuting home and "garage time". Mine's a 30x40, concrete is good (test holes went 5" and never broke through), 4000 psi spec'd when I had the place built.

I'm curious as to what width you guys like. I see that some of you are using it for lifting corvette's. I don't own one-nor do I ever want one (or to work on one). Only thing I'll use mine for is my two fox body Mustangs (92 and 93) and occasionally the Ford Maverick. The truck is too big/too heavy (F250, 7900 lbs).

 

[Flargen]

Given the size of your garage, I'd go as wide as they recommend (135" is the widest I see mentioned in the manual). I can't see a downside to extra space for doors, etc, if the space allows for it. I've ultimately decided to set mine 135" apart, but with the effective "bay" centered in the garage. At this point, my only remaining decision is how far away from the garage door to place the posts.

...but, once I finally got around to finishing assembly, I discovered one of the arms isn't quite right - the big-*** pins (lift head pins) won't go through the 2nd hole. I spoke to MaxJax earlier and they said that each arm is welded while mocked up with their own specific pin, and that I need to try all 4 (only tried 2 since the other 2 were installed). I find this to be a bit of a ******** claim given that these things are something like 1.5" diameter, and presumably tool steel (I think they were even turned, but I'm not near one now), so I can't fathom any kind of distortion that would cause this beyond machining/jigging/assembly error. They also said it'd be fine to bore out the bottom hole more to accommodate it... which isn't something I really want to do.