MaxJax Rewiring for 220v?

[mcm]

Anyone have this info handy?

There are 6 taps coming from the motor housing to the j box.

T1, T2, T3, T4, T6, and a cryptically labeled T7 (though it is a blank wire going into the actual housing, the wire labeled T7 does go to the starter caps).

T1-T2 have continuity
T3-T4-T6-T7(blank) have continuity

I'm guessing T1 and T3 are one running coil, T2 and T4 are the other, and the other 2 taps (T6 and blank) are the starter coil?

There is no diagram on the housing for rewiring.

Motor is labelled Emerson 613308 T63CJC1340. Much searching for this model has turned up nothing.

Anyone rewired this motor for the MaxJax to 220v?

 

[mcm]

I'm guessing L1 (hot) to T1, L2 (hot) to T4, and connect T2 to T3..

But what I'm not clear on are the other two wires that appear to be a starter coil circuit and each have one capacitor wired in series.

(Hoping this is not a single voltage motor and needs to be exchanged... )

 

[nehog]

Any color clues on the wires?

 

[mcm]

All are yellow :|

Coming out of the motor housing into the j-box they are labeled T1, T2, T3, T4, T6, and Blank( though there is a wire labeled T7 coming from one of the capacitors to the wire nut coupling between T1 and T3 (connected to Neutral after the double pole switch).

There are two capacitors. All of this is housed inside a large j-box. There is no thermal overload protection circuit.

Despite all of this info I can't for the life of me find a wiring diagram for this motor on emerson's website! I can't even find this model number anywhere... frustrating.

I know that low voltage (110) single phase has two coils wired in parallel, and that changing to high voltage (208-220) single phase is a matter of wiring the coils in series with the incoming Lines... but what about the "T6" and "Blank" that are wired into two capacitors in parallel? I assume this is for a starter coil and there is a centrifugal switch inside the motor housing?

 

[mcm]

Just popped the end off the motor, there is a centrifugal switch and now the wiring is clear.

Wire from one of the windings to one side of the centri switch is labelled T5, wire out from other side of switch is the blank one... so it looks like:

T1 - T2 = Run winding 1
T3 - T4 = Run winding 2
T5 - T6 = Starting winding

 

[mcm]

Unfortunately i just read the label on the start capacitor, and it reads "110VAC"...

It looks very much like this, http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/capacitors/motor-supplies/motors/ecatalog/N-9ypZ1z0q7ez?sst=subset, though a slightly different model # (same specs and brand, otherwise.)

Am I hosed?

 

[Greatbear]

Actually, no, you aren't hosed. Almost all dual-voltage AC motors are set up like this, and the start winding is actually 120 volts even if operated on 220. For 120, the two run windings are connected in parallel, as is the start winding (through the cap and switch). When set up for 240, the run windings are in series, but one of the run windings has the start winding in parallel as before. In this manner, the motor is acting as a step-down autotransformer, applying 120 to the start windings.

The issue you have here is properly phasing the two run windings when connected in series. If, for example, the motor is connected with T1, T3 and T5 together to one side of the line and 2, 4 and 6 to the other, to convert to 240 you would disconnect T1 and T2, connecting T2 to T3 and T5, and the original line connection to T1 only.

 

[mcm]

The issue you have here is properly phasing the two run windings when connected in series. If, for example, the motor is connected with T1, T3 and T5 together to one side of the line and 2, 4 and 6 to the other, to convert to 240 you would disconnect T1 and T2, connecting T2 to T3 and T5, and the original line connection to T1 only.

Is there a test I can do to ensure the phasing is correct? (and by phasing, I assume you mean which hot is connected to T1 and which is connected to T4?)

Here's a pic of the starting winding connections in the j-box, showing the capacitors:

Here are the other connections:

 

[mcm]

Could that larger (silver coloured) capacitor be a running capacitor??

I ask because I tried to follow the aforementioned "T5" and the T6 leads and it *looked* like they were coupled (all of this inside the motor housing), hard to tell for sure... That larger capacitor is a 25uF and 480volt rating...

The confusing part is the way the capacitors are wired (all to Neutral through the cryptic T7...)

 

[mcm]

Here is how I ended up rewiring it, seems to work fine:

T1 + Starter Coil ("T7") => L1
T2 + T3
T4 => L2

 

[Greatbear]

Yes, the silver cap is a run cap. Run caps have a higher voltage rating and a smaller value in uF than start caps. Also, most run caps are metal cased with internal overstress protection.

Now that I see how your motor is wired, your final connection strategy is what I would have come up with. Had you messed up, the motor would not run, or would sit there and hum without running (and likely trip a breaker).

 

[mcm]

I did receive the wiring diagram for this power unit. They apparently use two diff power units on the Max Jax. Mine is the MTE.

Strangely it specifies wiring "T7" to the T2/T3 coupling... this is *not* what I ended up with, yet mine still works.. hehe. Will rewire now and see if it still works

 

[PatL]

I want to rewire my MaxJax to 220. Did you try the wiring per the diagram and did it work for you?

Pat

 

[abstamaria]

Not of any help here, but just to note that I ordered my Maxjax as a 220V unit, so it was delivered for that voltage.

Good luck,

Andy

 

[UPSHIFT]

Gents,

Anyone needing wiring info for the older units or have questions on this unit please send me an e-mail. [email protected]

 

[Stuart in MN]

First question - if it's already wired that way is there a reason you can't run it on 120vac?

 

[UPSHIFT]

First question - if it's already wired that way is there a reason you can't run it on 120vac?

There is no reason it would not work on 120V, some owners have 220V readily available and choose to use the higher voltage. Only benefits would be longer motor life and less amp draw saving some power. The speed of the unit stays the same so no benefit there.

 

[Nick-ACNB]

I've tried what you said and got in touch with Dannmar. They sent me a wiring diagram that clearly states what you said:

T1 to Line 1
T2 + T3 + T7
T4 to Line 2

"To connect for high voltage wire nut t2, t3 and t7 together and t1 and t4 go to line"

As an extra piece of information, I've tried to raise the lift succesfully with this connection with no car on the lift. Also, at first I managed to get a car up. However, if I raised a car up 2 feet, stopped raising and tried to raise again, it would only humm.

Now, the motor only humms and I can't even get the lift up even with no weight.

Any idea?

I've added a video to try and get some extra help. I understand this thread is old but since it was the only source I found on the internet perhaps it could help others:

 

[pattenp]

Sorry, no savings. The amp draw is less at 240 vs. 120, but the power consumption is the same amount of watts.

There is no reason it would not work on 120V, some owners have 220V readily available and choose to use the higher voltage. Only benefits would be longer motor life and less amp draw saving some power. The speed of the unit stays the same so no benefit there.

 

[malibu101]

Sorry, no savings. The amp draw is less at 240 vs. 120, but the power consumption is the same amount of watts.

Yep. Watts law.
Voltage times amperage equals watts.
120V times (let's say) 10A = 1200W
If you change the motor to 240V it will draw half the amps, so
240V times 5A = 1200W
You are billed by watts on your electric bill.

Personally, I'd just let it as is unless there is some other overwhelming neccesity of a reason to switch it to 240V.

 

[Nick-ACNB]

If only I had known that before! According to http://www.maxjaxusa.com/faqs/installation.html the raise time will be slightly lower too. If I had made calculations before I wouldn't have bothered: full raise is like 30 seconds which would decrease it by around 5 seconds.

My motor seems to be pretty much screwed right now for some shady reasons. I did everything as per the diagram which was pretty straight forward and it doesn't raise anymore.