Maxjax Self leveling instead of shims?

[curiousB]

I have to do a fair bit of shimming to get my lift posts perpendicular each time I use my Maxjax (M-6) lift. It isn't a major job but it would be nice if I could just wheel the posts in place and torque them down.

I was wondering if I put some forms (say 1"x4" stock) around a patch slightly bigger than the baseplate size and pour a thin skim of self leveling concrete would that be strong enough to take the post once torqued or would it just crack and spall away?

Anyone tried it?

 

[mike93lx]

Define "a fair amount of shimming". How thick are you talking? Is it even side to side?

 

[curiousB]

Maybe 5/8” is the maximum thickness. Shims required on multiple sides to get plumb.


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[matt_i]

I'd measure the spacers and machine (have machined) some single-piece tubular spacers that match the stack of shims.

Then they could either be dropped in place via identification marks/color codes or you could just tack weld them to the bottom side of the main foot.

Another possibility is to make something like a 1/4" piece of steel plate which matches the baseplate, and set it place over top of a bed of non shrinking grout. That's a classic way of bedding and setting a machine tool from years gone by. Then just bolt steel-to-steel with the anchors going thru both pieces. One issue when leveling the permanent base is that the easiest way to align it would be to get it level in 2 perpendicular dimensions with a "better" level like a Stabila or a Starrett 98 mechanic's level (~.001" per 6"). The Starrett 199Z master precision level (.0005" per 12") is too much precision and you will fight it, imo. But it would be good to confirm with shims that the level steel baseplate leads to proper alignment of your lift arms.