Pixar
Member
So what is the trick of lining up the car or truck each time you want to lift ?
MaxJax Transport, Install, Impression, and Comparison
- Thread starter Dolfan
- Start date
Here's a good article from bendpak on determining center of balance. After you lif a few times you will be able to determine without it
http://www.bendpak.com/support/balancing-safety/
Pixar
Member
Very Nice, thanks much... the other thing I was asking is when you guys are driving into the garage how are you gaging both side and when to stop 
maybe hang tennis balls all over the place LOL
maybe hang tennis balls all over the place LOL
Denwood
Well-known member
The yellow tiles really help to line vehicles up side to side and front to back. Each vehicle has its own reference points which make subsequent lifts much quicker. The tiles are equidistant from the columns.
Cue
Well-known member
I put one of these in mine.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U9TXE7I/?tag=atomicindus08-20
It turns on by motion when I drive in and each car has a spot on it where the laser dot hits so its exactly in the same spot each time front to back and side to side.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U9TXE7I/?tag=atomicindus08-20
It turns on by motion when I drive in and each car has a spot on it where the laser dot hits so its exactly in the same spot each time front to back and side to side.
cookiemech
Well-known member
MaxJax Spacing for Different Vehicles
I have carefully read all 25 pages of this thread once, and skimmed it a second time. Thanks to everyone who has gone to the trouble to document his/her work; this saves me and others a lot of time and potential messy mistakes. I have used the epoxy anchors previously and like them a lot; it is comforting to know that this seems to be the consensus pick for securing the posts.
What I am trying to understand are the criteria for deciding how far apart to install the posts. Looking at the MaxJax installation instructions, it appears that they are specifying spacings based on the OUTSIDE of the flanges. They suggest 105" to 115" for a "sport compact" and 120" to 130" for a full size truck.
I have four vehicles here that would seem to span the range: 2015 Honda Fit (57" between pinch welds), 2012 Subaru Forester (also 57" between pinch welds), 2005 Toyota Tundra (44 to 46 inches between frame rails, front to rear), and 2011 Toyota Sienna (67" between pinch welds). My simple thinking is that although the Tundra is the longest and tied for heaviest (4400 lbs. for it and the Sienna), the arms will have to swing furthest inward to pick up the frame, out of any of these vehicles. The arms will be swung furthest out (more toward 180° than 90° to the posts) for the Sienna.
Is it reasonable to imagine that I can set the posts at, say, 125" and use the MaxJax properly for all four of these? What am I overlooking? Yeah, I could install a second set of anchors, but that would mean moving one post every time I worked on a different vehicle. Kinda Swiss-cheesing the floor, too . . .
I have carefully read all 25 pages of this thread once, and skimmed it a second time. Thanks to everyone who has gone to the trouble to document his/her work; this saves me and others a lot of time and potential messy mistakes. I have used the epoxy anchors previously and like them a lot; it is comforting to know that this seems to be the consensus pick for securing the posts.
What I am trying to understand are the criteria for deciding how far apart to install the posts. Looking at the MaxJax installation instructions, it appears that they are specifying spacings based on the OUTSIDE of the flanges. They suggest 105" to 115" for a "sport compact" and 120" to 130" for a full size truck.
I have four vehicles here that would seem to span the range: 2015 Honda Fit (57" between pinch welds), 2012 Subaru Forester (also 57" between pinch welds), 2005 Toyota Tundra (44 to 46 inches between frame rails, front to rear), and 2011 Toyota Sienna (67" between pinch welds). My simple thinking is that although the Tundra is the longest and tied for heaviest (4400 lbs. for it and the Sienna), the arms will have to swing furthest inward to pick up the frame, out of any of these vehicles. The arms will be swung furthest out (more toward 180° than 90° to the posts) for the Sienna.
Is it reasonable to imagine that I can set the posts at, say, 125" and use the MaxJax properly for all four of these? What am I overlooking? Yeah, I could install a second set of anchors, but that would mean moving one post every time I worked on a different vehicle. Kinda Swiss-cheesing the floor, too . . .
Pixar
Member
I myself can not do it that way. so I have ordered another set of wejets and I am drill another 10 holes. our old beetle the post are only at 100 and my truck will be more like
120 . I also use one post for my trike Amazon has the same ones. for a good price.
the arm length on the lift doesn't reach far enough for what I need to get to my contact points. rather be safe and have Swiss cheese in my floor.
120 . I also use one post for my trike
Amazon has the same ones. for a good price.the arm length on the lift doesn't reach far enough for what I need to get to my contact points. rather be safe and have Swiss cheese in my floor.
cookiemech
Well-known member
I guess that what I'm trying to determine is just how far the arms extend and what the "rules" are for supporting the load. So, for example, even though the pickup truck is heavy and wide, the pickup points are only, say, 45" apart, and thus the arms would be extended quite a bit. Doesn't this stress the posts (well, really, the anchors in the floor) more? And even though the little Honda is much narrower and lighter, the arms would not be extended so far, since its pickup points are 57" apart?
What's the main determinant of how far apart you space the posts? Outside width of the vehicle (you obviously need to be able to exit the vehicle after parking it)? Or width of the pickup points (my example above makes these seem contradictory)?
What's the main determinant of how far apart you space the posts? Outside width of the vehicle (you obviously need to be able to exit the vehicle after parking it)? Or width of the pickup points (my example above makes these seem contradictory)?
ymurf
Well-known member
Hey Pixar, Did the flow divider fix your problem?
Pixar
Member
Why yes it did !! works great now
ymurf
Well-known member
Wonder what could be wrong with a flow divider? Don't they just split the flow to two directions from one? Or is there more to a flow divider that I am not aware of?
ymurf
Well-known member
You throw your old one away? Would you be interested in getting rid of it?
Pixar
Member
They had a return shipping label with the new one to ship it back, sorry
what would you do with it ?
what would you do with it ?
Pixar
Member
Well from reading on this site, there are plenty of bad ones I guess
ymurf
Well-known member
They had a return shipping label with the new one to ship it back, sorry
what would you do with it ?
Take it apart and see if it could be fixed. May have been a metal chip stuck in it or something.
Rodbuilder
Active member
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- Aug 2, 2010
- Messages
- 42
Yup, that's what the problem with mine was. I just took it apart, cleaned it out now works great for the last 4 years. The more I use my MJ the more I like it. Lot of guys in my neighborhood like it too, use it all the time for oil changes, exhaust etc.
petee_c
Well-known member
Was it hard to get back together? I use my MJ a dozen or so times a year. Not too bad going up, but yesterday, lowering my jetta. The passenger side was still 6(?) inches high when the driver side was touching the ground. This was coming down from the top height.
Sent from my LG-D852 using Tapatalk
Mr onetwo
Well-known member
Try bleeding it.Also, do you still have the crappy chinese quick disconnects?They will let air into the lines.
Rodbuilder
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- Aug 2, 2010
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Very good info, plus I spray the inside rails with dry silicone fairly often.Jvvmusme
Well-known member
I did the same thing and it is great !
NotoriousJJE
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- Feb 9, 2016
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- 10
Guys help me understand the width requirements of this thing.
Are you saying that the inner points of the posts are 124-126" apart? SO it would be 126" from the inner part of one post to the inner part of the other post? Then add the actual size of the posts? This seems really wide to me.
Or is 126" from outer edge of the mounting plates to outer edge of the other mounting plates?
I want to order one but want to make sure it makes sense in my garage.
Thanks in advance
Are you saying that the inner points of the posts are 124-126" apart? SO it would be 126" from the inner part of one post to the inner part of the other post? Then add the actual size of the posts? This seems really wide to me.
Or is 126" from outer edge of the mounting plates to outer edge of the other mounting plates?
I want to order one but want to make sure it makes sense in my garage.
Thanks in advance
cookiemech
Well-known member
That confused me as well. Most everyone is talking about the dimension from the OUTSIDE of the baseplates to each other (thus the posts would be closer than you are visualizing). If you go to the MaxJax website and click on "downloads", you can see the installation manual. There's a diagram showing the recommended spacing, and that has the numbers relative to the outside of the baseplates.
I used 130" and it seems to work well on all of my vehicles, from a 2015 Honda Fit (very small) to a 2012 Subaru Forester, to a 2011 Toyota Sienna minivan, to a 2005 Toyota Tundra pickup.
I used 130" and it seems to work well on all of my vehicles, from a 2015 Honda Fit (very small) to a 2012 Subaru Forester, to a 2011 Toyota Sienna minivan, to a 2005 Toyota Tundra pickup.
NotoriousJJE
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Great! Thanks man! whew!!!!
Pixar
Member
However I lift old type beetle's up and my post must be set at 100 inches, (inside)
I drilled a second set for my other cars and truck.
I drilled a second set for my other cars and truck.
NotoriousJJE
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Ordered mine on amazon with free home delivery and no tax. Pumped.
Mr onetwo
Well-known member
You will love it!
Pixar
Member
You will be picking it up at the trucking hub, I also ordered mine off amazon.
Then picked it up in my truck.
Inspect it well before signing the paperwork.
Mine was pretty marred up from the trucking companies fork lift drivers.
YOU WILL LOVE IT !!
Then picked it up in my truck.
Inspect it well before signing the paperwork.
Mine was pretty marred up from the trucking companies fork lift drivers.
YOU WILL LOVE IT !!
cookiemech
Well-known member
I ordered mine directly from Dannmar and had it shipped to my friend's business (where they have a forklift). Freight was "free" (obviously it has to be rolled into the base price) and there was no discernible damage to the lift parts. My friend's forklift operator placed it in the back of my pickup and I drove it home. Took me a while with a cherry picker to remove the pieces from the pickup bed, but all went well. I'm very happy with the results.
Yellow1098
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- Jul 7, 2013
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Soooo Iv been follow this thread for a longgggg time and been wanting a MJ forever. Of course the reason I haven't pulled the trigger yet is money. The best prices I have seen are amazon and Costco for 1,800. I finally found a guy locally on Craigslist that says he would sell his for $1,500 but of course a seal needs a new Oring and the anchor bolts are missing and of course I have to go pick it up an hour away. So it sounds to me like new is still the better deal. Was just looking for some thoughts and feedback.
I can never understand these people on criags list. The site was created for people to sell there used stuff at a good price but everyone wants almost new money for used stuff on there. Just crazy to me. Thanks for the responses!
I can never understand these people on criags list. The site was created for people to sell there used stuff at a good price but everyone wants almost new money for used stuff on there. Just crazy to me. Thanks for the responses!
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NotoriousJJE
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They delivered it straight to my house. I wish they would have taken better care of the package, but I am not going to complain.
Took my time installing it. Have just two small issues. Had one anchor on each side that wouldn't take so I just ordered some 3/4" titen anchors. I also have a quick connect that is leaking at the NPT joint with the hose.
Definitely want to run hoses up to the roof and mount the motor and valve to the wall. Bending over to push the button gets old.
Mounted mine at 130 to get it to work with all the cars. So far so good! Thanks for all the tips.
Yellow1098
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Can't find the link either now...maybe they in fact don't carry it anymore. The best price I am seeing now is 2k even from amazon. I have heard about some group buys on here and other places that make the price 1,800. If anyone knows a better price or group buy please let me know...but I don't think 1,500 for a 3 year old unit missing parts and far away is a deal...what do you guys think? Anyone know of a good price for used units?
wolfsburged
Well-known member
Well I just placed an order for my Max Jax! Eagerly awaiting it!
Question about the drill and bits for the anchors.
I have this Hammer Drill:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YL4990/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I am thinking this should be sufficient, or do I need to rent/buy an "SDS" drill?
For bits, I'm thinking of getting this set to step up to 5/8"
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000TZYZC/?tag=atomicindus08-20
and then this for final 7/8 hole:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBLSJQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Question about the drill and bits for the anchors.
I have this Hammer Drill:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YL4990/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I am thinking this should be sufficient, or do I need to rent/buy an "SDS" drill?
For bits, I'm thinking of getting this set to step up to 5/8"
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000TZYZC/?tag=atomicindus08-20
and then this for final 7/8 hole:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBLSJQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20
NotoriousJJE
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- Feb 9, 2016
- Messages
- 10
I would suggest the you rent the biggest hammer drill you can find. The anchors are a pain the ****. You need to very careful and need to make sure you don't wallow the holes.
Any help you can get get it.
NotoriousJJE
Member
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- Feb 9, 2016
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- 10
Btw, here is mine in action. Getting the new track car ready!
Yellow1098
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- Jul 7, 2013
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- 39
Awesome pic! I just got the guy off criagslist to come down to $1,300. It does have an issue with leaking fluid but I will fix that hopefully with just an Oring. I also have to get some new anchor bolts.
How high can you get the car off the ground with this garage open?
How high can you get the car off the ground with this garage open?
shortykorte
Well-known member
For my first set, I rented the SDS drill. The second set I drilled, I brought the HF SDS hammer drill and it worked great. I just brought the HF SDS chisel set to help break up my thin floor. The HF drill functions as a jack hammer also and worked great on my 3" concrete floor.
With 20% off, coupon, can't beat it.
NOTE: measure your 7/8 bit and ensure the blade part is 7/8 or less. Mine was slightly larger. I ground down the sides and the second set of holes, anchors held correctly.
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