MaxJax Transport, Install, Impression, and Comparison

[Denee007]

I believe the epoxy anchors are approximately 6" long. I bought the kit from gesusa.com, but requested an extra tube, just don't want to be caught short. As for the integrity of the concrete after being tainted with hydraulic oil, you'll just have to make a call on that and see how it is after brake cleaner. You can make a better call after knocking out all the mechanical anchors, granted that you're able to make that happen. You'll have to be creative in not loosing the epoxy down the hole, but I can say when that epoxy cures, it's become one with what it adheres to; it's badass stuff! Again, I have put the epoxy on by squeezing it onto the new anchor and just engulfing the anchor, then guiding it into the concrete hole to the desired depth. The foam sounds possible, you'll just have to experiment~ at worse, move the lift. And, did all the mechanical anchors fail? I have replaced some mechanical anchors with epoxy, so it at one location was 3 mechanical and 2 epoxy. I have had good luck with the mechanical with my first lift, a long time ago, but a couple did loosen and I knocked them through, the did the epoxy anchor/s. However now, at our new location, I'd never consider a mechanical anchor, but if a few are sound and hold, they'll be just fine.
Hope this helped, if not, keep asking until you're content with your next step/s.
dne'

https://www.gesusa.com/epoxy-grip-anchor-bolt-kit.html

 

[JohnnyK8]

Use a coffee filter to stop from dumping 45 gallons of epoxy down the hole. There or other options too epoxy sleeves might be what they are called

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[Johns12]

There is a discussion on another thread that says epoxy anchors may not be stronger than wedge anchors. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=417034&highlight=maxjax&page=3

Just thought I'd throw this out there. I thought it was an interesting read. I used the wedge anchors and have had no problems.

 

[ctandc]

I'm going to try the install with the wedge anchors. Thing is I ordered the epoxy anchors - just in case - when I bought the MaxJax....and the ones they sent don't work with the bolts included for the MaxJax posts. Is this the case for everyone who has installed the epoxy anchors?

 

[curiousB]

yes, I learned this. The hard way.

The wedge anchors are Metric thread M16x2.00mm pitch
The epoxy anchors are 5/8-11 UNC thread

I had bought 5/8-11 UNC socket/set screws to plug the anchors when the lift was stored away. They didn't fit. After a bit of head scratching I eventually realized the anchor threads were metric, not english on the wedge anchors. So I went out and bought M16x2 set screws as well.

Its a bit weird because the Dannmar literature refers to them as 5/8-11 anchors and the Wej-it part number PD58 is definitely english threads. Dannmer must get a special order metric version as I couldn't even see a metric thread available from Wej-it....

 

[ctandc]

yes, I learned this. The hard way.

The wedge anchors are Metric thread M16x2.00mm pitch
The epoxy anchors are 5/8-11 UNC thread

I had bought 5/8-11 UNC socket/set screws to plug the anchors when the lift was stored away. They didn't fit. After a bit of head scratching I eventually realized the anchor threads were metric, not english on the wedge anchors. So I went out and bought M16x2 set screws as well.

Its a bit weird because the Dannmar literature refers to them as 5/8-11 anchors and the Wej-it part number PD58 is definitely english threads. Dannmer must get a special order metric version as I couldn't even see a metric thread available from Wej-it....

Thanks - I was in the middle of ten other things when I tried threading in the "sacrificial bolt" into one of epoxy anchors. I'm going to try the install this weekend with the wedge anchors.

The shop it's going in is a detached shop and the one test drill I made was right at 5" of concrete depth. Don't know why this guy would have built a detached 2 car garage (were my GF and I park our cars) then built his work shop and used 9' ceilings. No matter - the MaxJax will work for now. Plan is to build a 60x40 metal shop behind this one and it will get a full size 2 post. That's the benefit to having 5 acres

 

[curiousB]

.... I'm going to try the install this weekend with the wedge anchors.

I just did this so would make these suggestions.

use a good SDS style and a reasonably sharp drill bit. I did 1/4" pilot then 5/8" then the final 7/8". Drill completely through slab. If the anchor has issues you can pound it through and do another one. Easy pressure when drilling the last inch or so so you don't get too much spalling/blow out on the underside.

I would pick up a second sacrificial bolt and nut. They get fairly beat up in the process. Also get a couple extra washers. Lube the washer faces and the nut to minimize friction.

I also bought a metric tap and die M16x2 and it was nice to clean up the threads after I was done.

Pick up a set of then socket set screws in M16x2 as well . They make great plugs to keep debris out and the thread safe while lift is stored away.

 

[Mr onetwo]

Wrong,wrong wromg. PD58 anchors are not metric. You may have gotten the wrong anchors from Danmar.Also, the proper way to drill the hole is with one proper sized bit. Using pilot bits makes the hole egg shaped. I highly recommend the Bosch Wild Bore bits for their accuracy. https://www.performancetoolcenter.c...MI3-Gis5Ox4QIVw16GCh1EKwb_EAQYBSABEgJu_PD_BwE

 

[NewShockerGuy]

Bookmarking this thread for reference. Just ordered my MaxJax.

MaxJaxUsa is running a sale through the end of the week. $1599 for the MaxJax with a free rolling stool thrown in. And I went ahead and ordered the epoxy anchor kit.

Did you ever rebuilt the cylinder? I one cylinder is leaking slightly and I ordered a rebuild kit but it's been sitting in my tool box for a year now. I couldn't figure out to take apart the cylinder and there are NO how to's anywhere on here about doing so...

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

[ctandc]

Appreciate the input. I've got a monster SDS hammer drill. It drilled a test hole with zero issues. After several test holes, the shallowest part of my shop slab was almost 5" - I think the wedges will be okay.

I will check the wedge anchors that came with my Max Jax to see if they are metric or standard, but they came with the bolts threaded in them - so I think I'm okay on that front. However - I ordered and paid for the epoxy anchor kit with my MaxJax - just in case. They didn't ship it with the MaxJax, so I called and they immediately sent the epoxy anchor out.

What I am saying - the EPOXY anchor kit they sent does NOT match the threads of the bolts included with the MaxJax (with the included wedge anchors). I emailed DanMar and they told me that's a known issue and I would need to go by new bolts for the epoxy anchor kit.

 

[curiousB]

As I said the epoxy anchors are 5/8-11 UNC thread

The wedge anchors are M16x2.0mm


Odd they don’t use the same for both options but that is how I got them too.


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[wkohler]

I have the M-6 and it came with PD-58X anchors which are 5/8-11 UNC thread. The only difference I could find between them and the PD-58 (good deal on Amazon for 5) is that the X must mean China. Of course, the bolts themselves were missing but Dannmar sent replacements which showed up just in time to correspond with installing my anchors. I bought shorter bolts and fender washers to keep the holes filled when not in use, which is 99% of the time. I also have anti-seize on both sets of bolts.

 

[curiousB]

Weird how some are getting SAE 5/8-11 UNC and I got metric. Seems Dannmar isn't exactly polished when it comes to this business. Lots of stories of parts missing, inconsistent use of metric vs. SAE, faulty metering valves, ambiguous installation instructions....

At least by buying the M-6 I have some assurance the ALI certification means they had to pass some sort of independent standards.

 

[Probird]

Read through about 20 pages and figure I’ll just ask.
Any input on post width for a 67 and 70 camaro?
Never messed with a 2 post, have a 4 post but taking up too much room.

Any suggestions appreciated.

 

[rottdogsparky]

Read through about 20 pages and figure I’ll just ask.
Any input on post width for a 67 and 70 camaro?
Never messed with a 2 post, have a 4 post but taking up too much room.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Nobody replied? I recently purchased a Max Jax and figured after 20 pages the world be a ton of notifications going off after anyone posted? After I read through all the threads I was trying to figure out what I should do after it arrives, considering most people add the 90-degree Quick Connect if there was something else I was missing but I'm concerned I will not get an answer now LOL

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[shortykorte]

Read through about 20 pages and figure I’ll just ask.
Any input on post width for a 67 and 70 camaro?
Never messed with a 2 post, have a 4 post but taking up too much room.

Any suggestions appreciated.

One solution is to park vehicles in garage or driveway and roll the MaxJax into position. You can simulate lifting by trying different widths staying within the manuals specs. Once you have the width, drill away.


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[shortykorte]

Nobody replied? I recently purchased a Max Jax and figured after 20 pages the world be a ton of notifications going off after anyone posted? After I read through all the threads I was trying to figure out what I should do after it arrives, considering most people add the 90-degree Quick Connect if there was something else I was missing but I'm concerned I will not get an answer now LOL

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I’m surprised too. The three things I remember from going through the thread for mine is US couplers with 90* at post, new, better hoses some running their hoses overhead, and epoxy fasteners.


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[Mr onetwo]

Read through about 20 pages and figure I’ll just ask.
Any input on post width for a 67 and 70 camaro?
Never messed with a 2 post, have a 4 post but taking up too much room.

Any suggestions appreciated.

You've got a lot more searching to do. To date there are 339 threads with the term "maxjax" in the title.Spacing has been brought up literally dozens of times. I don't own a camaro or any "chebbie" for that matter so I can't answer your question.

 

[rottdogsparky]

Alright going to throw this out there and hope some of you can help me. I purchased the Maxjax lift and have only 4 inches of clearance front to back in my garage.

The area I am looking to mount the lift has a beam and garage door to contend with. So CAN SOMEONE RECOMMEND HOW TO ACCURATELY MEASURE?

I have a Dakota, BMW 3 series and a Elantra for now. I was going 130 inches wide to avoid a expansion joint. So I am just trying to figure out the front to rear measurement and will drill away.

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[ElSapo]

This is how I did it last week.

Bring the vehicles into the garage, and locate them where their vertical movement won't be impinged by anything else (garage opener, garage door, overhead beam, etc). Then place the lift columns so the arms can reach the vehicle lifting points without any weight bias to either side. Mark where they end up, pull the vehicle out and drill away.

 

[rottdogsparky]

Well ElSapo I think your advice was a tad to easy! The overall consensus was THERE IS NOT A EASY WAY. I was overanalyzing this as a 4 inch (actually 2 inches to the front and 2 to the rear) margin of error was to small to try and work out. I had plumb Bob's and laser levers to try and mark where my Dakota was recommend to be lifted then tried to get the lift arms under to try and confirm it was correct turned out to be a mess. In the end I would like to see EVERYONE on here give spatial dimensions of the area that they installed the lift in and have that in relation to front to back and left to right. Overall I'm not sure that would even help. I was able to get my lift in and installed but not going to be able to tell if it's in the best spot until I put a few more vehicles on it. So for everyone looking to install a lift in the future just realize there's so many variables and lifting different vehicles that it's going to be impossible to pick a perfect spot at least it was for me.

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[lemmy999]

Diverter with quick connect couplings (this is on the ceiling, hard to get a perspective) - the unused quick connect coupler is to convert from dual post to single post mode.

I understand that you want to operate only one post at times, but I don't understand why you need the extra unused quick connect to do this. Can't you just disconnect one hose at the lift post and it will operate in single post mode?

 

[regguy1]

One thing I found annoying about the Max Jax was the high mount position of the hoses on the power unit, I found myself tripping over them quite often. I came up with a idea to route them low near the floor and it has eliminated the tripping hazard. Note: since the video was made I have replaced the fittings and pipes with non galvanized schedule 80 stuff

See the new hose arrangement here:

 

[JSK]

One thing I found annoying about the Max Jax was the high mount position of the hoses on the power unit, I found myself tripping over them quite often. I came up with a idea to route them low near the floor and it has eliminated the tripping hazard. Note: since the video was made I have replaced the fittings and pipes with non galvanized schedule 80 stuff

See the new hose arrangement here:

I don't want to be an alarmist. Just offering some advice in case you or others consider doing same on other lifts or hydraulic equipment.

I was involved in an injury lawsuit regarding a mid-rise lift accident. The user suffered injuries to his legs and hips. He was sitting on a rolling work seat with his bent legs positioned under the rear fender of an elevated (raised on the mid-rise lift) SUV. The 90-degree “fitting” on his power unit failed causing the lift to rush downward suddenly pinning the lower half of his body underneath the vehicle (with no wheels) for a short period.

I flew across the country as the subject matter expert to observe the site of the accident and the lift in question. It didn’t take more than a few minutes to realize that at some time during the ownership of the lift, the power units fitting was replaced with something from a hardware store. Sure the fitting looked the same, it was metal after, all but the PSI rating was vastly different. At some time he had replaced his 3000 PSI hydraulic fittings with 300 PSI brass pipe fittings typically used for water or air. Of course, had he used the lift safely, and made sure the safety locks were engaged prior to getting near a raised vehicle, even had the fitting failed, the lift would not have lowered suddenly.

Always make sure PSI ratings are matched if/when replacing OEM hardware. I'm sure with your attention to detail, you already did your homework and schedule 80 is probably fine, but always confirm their published ratings.

Looks like a great idea BTW.

 

[regguy1]

JSK, Point well taken, the Max Jax has safety bars that need to be inserted in the columns after lifting the vehicle then you release the pressure and the vehicle comes down a bit and the weight is supported by the safety bars and the car can not come down. They have a new model M6 that has automatic locks, on the original model you should never get under it without the safety bars inserted, if a hose should rupture the car will come down on you.

I have a set of mid rise stands, I can put them under the (yellow) lift arms and take all the weight off the columns, I do that if a car will be in the air for extended period of time. You can see the safety bars in the photo (red handle facing the front just below the yellow lift arms)

 

[JSK]

JSK, Point well taken, the Max Jax has safety bars that need to be inserted in the columns after lifting the vehicle then you release the pressure and the vehicle comes down a bit and the weight is supported by the safety bars and the car can not come down. They have a new model M6 that has automatic locks, on the original model you should never get under it without the safety bars inserted, if a hose should rupture the car will come down on you.

I have a set of mid rise stands, I can put them under the (yellow) lift arms and take all the weight off the columns, I do that if a car will be in the air for extended period of time. You can see the safety bars in the photo (red handle facing the front just below the yellow lift arms)

Yes, regguy, the lock bars (or any safety lock for that matter) do ease concerns of hydraulic failure. I know very well about the MaxJax. My invention/patent.

 

[regguy1]

JSK, Thanks for the patent link, it's interesting to see how the automatic locks were added.
What happened to Gabe?, I talked to him a few times about the Max Jax. He wanted me to do a review video of the M6 but he was gone before it came out.
Here is a video from several years ago the mention of the Max Jax starts at about 2:45 in the video:

(you can see the original high mounted hose configuration in the video)

 

[Dolfan]

Hi everyone, Dolfan here the original member starting this thread.

It's great to see everyone with the MaxJax, mine is used constantly. I have not done much to my set up but I've used it a ton, mainly for all the repairs and maintenance of my race car.

I am curious about a couple things

• Has anyone come up with a good storage system for the left pads and extensions? These are usually just sitting around the base on the post and often get knocked around as I work? Something that keeps them on the post where they are needed but organized is what I'm looking for. curious if anyone has a great idea on this.
• Also, has anyone used something to restrict the lower point on the lift. I'd like to keep the arm from rubbing the floor this time now that I redid the floor again and try to keep it looking good. I think I only need about a 1/4"-3/8" space to keep the arms free. I was thinking either a metal plate sitting in the base or maybe even this had rubber like some of the jacking blocks are made of.

During this break, I took the time to recoat my floor after 9 years of hard use!

 

[Rodbuilder]

Dannmar down the tubes??

I've had one of the original MaxJax 2 post lifts that I have been very happy with.

A couple months ago a buddy of mine was here using it to work on his ZR1 and asked if I would consider selling it to him. I did some research and decided to go ahead and and buy the new M6. I called Dannmar and asked a lot of questions one of was "is the foot print and base bolt pattern the same as the old one" I asked this because I have the epoxy mollies and wanted it to just bolt into the existing locations. I was assured that it was the exact same and would bolt right in, wrong!

I went ahead and ordered one because they gave me a great deal because I was a previous owner and they liked the posts I had made about the MaxJax.

I helped my buddy move and set up my original MaxJax and waited for my new M6. When it arrived I got it all opened up and took one of the posts to the old location...you guessed it not even close to the same bolt pattern. 2 of the bolts dropped right in but the others were about 3/4 of an inch off.

I called back to talk to them about this discrepancy and was treated like it was no big deal because they sent the spreader mollies with the lift. True they did but I wanted to use the epoxy mollies. I decided that being I could use 2 of the mollies I needed a total of 6 new ones. After several calls and emails they agreed to send me 6 epoxy mollies at no charge but I was to pay $65 for the epoxy (BS) however the mollies and epoxy was on national back order and they had no idea when they would be getting them.

After 10-12 emails I was told that they had 6 mollies and would send them to me but the epoxy was no longer available, I found it on the web and bought 2 sets.

So after about 6 weeks of having the M6 I was going to be able to get it up and running. I got the mollies installed (had to rent a hammer drill and buy a 7/8" bit from Home Depot $165) bled the lines and was ready to go. For the first test I put my Polaris Ranger up on it and changed the oil, all good so far until I went to lower it, no go, it would not lower. I called tech support left a couple messages, no response, several emails nothing meanwhile the Ranger is up in the air and I need to use it.

After a week or so with no communication form Damn-it-mar I borrowed a buddies lull and lifted the Ranger off the lift, glad it wasn't my truck.

I believe the cylinders are defective, I have trouble shot about everything I can think of.

I never heard back from Damn-it-mar so today was doing more research and something popped up that Bendpak bought them out. It actually just happened yesterday.

I was able to find a phone number for them (888-856-5820) and just got off the phone with them. I was told that it could be 60-90 days before the tech team is up to speed to help me. I will say that Bendpak was very nice to talk to but meanwhile I'm up a creek without a paddle.

I think i'd be a little careful buying any Damnmar stuff right now.

 

[Rodbuilder]

Hi everyone, Dolfan here the original member starting this thread.

It's great to see everyone with the MaxJax, mine is used constantly. I have not done much to my set up but I've used it a ton, mainly for all the repairs and maintenance of my race car.

I am curious about a couple things

• Has anyone come up with a good storage system for the left pads and extensions? These are usually just sitting around the base on the post and often get knocked around as I work? Something that keeps them on the post where they are needed but organized is what I'm looking for. curious if anyone has a great idea on this.
• Also, has anyone used something to restrict the lower point on the lift. I'd like to keep the arm from rubbing the floor this time now that I redid the floor again and try to keep it looking good. I think I only need about a 1/4"-3/8" space to keep the arms free. I was thinking either a metal plate sitting in the base or maybe even this had rubber like some of the jacking blocks are made of.

During this break, I took the time to recoat my floor after 9 years of hard use!

I have 2 SS shop carts with 3 shelves similar to this one. I want to say I got mine at Costco or Sams. I keep all 4 arms on the lower shelf, the mid shelf is for the accessories.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OI11IPI/?tag=atomicindus08-20

For the 2nd question I got some nylon discs about 1.5-2", 1/4" thick at Home depot and epoxied one on the bottom of each leg, now they just slide over the floor. But I like your rubber stop idea as well

Hope that helps.

 

[Jagmandave]

The problem with the stuck lift has been described thoroughly in a number of threads on here......my buddy bought one of those that had the issue too.

In a nutshell, the coating they used on the uprights has a matt finish and the arms hang up on it, even thoroughly greasing them doesn't help.

There are two possible solutions - one, get Danmar to send you new uprights with a shiny finish or two, take the lift arms and cylinders out and remove the finish on the inside of the uprights down to shiny metal, then clean and grease.

On my buddy's M6 they sent him new uprights and now his works flawlessly.

When we had a car stuck on the lift, to get it down we inserted a pry bar between the back of the lift arm and the upright and nudged it in and out and it would release a little at a time. Make sure someone is holding the release lever on the pump down too.

 

[Rodbuilder]

The problem with the stuck lift has been described thoroughly in a number of threads on here......my buddy bought one of those that had the issue too.

In a nutshell, the coating they used on the uprights has a matt finish and the arms hang up on it, even thoroughly greasing them doesn't help.

There are two possible solutions - one, get Danmar to send you new uprights with a shiny finish or two, take the lift arms and cylinders out and remove the finish on the inside of the uprights down to shiny metal, then clean and grease.

On my buddy's M6 they sent him new uprights and now his works flawlessly.

When we had a car stuck on the lift, to get it down we inserted a pry bar between the back of the lift arm and the upright and nudged it in and out and it would release a little at a time. Make sure someone is holding the release lever on the pump down too.

Thanks Jag that describes my issue exactly. I will check it out as well as put another call into Bend Pak

 

[dr bob]

I made some J hangers-and-hooks that hang over the front of the column while in storage. The lift arms hang extended from those side by side on the columns, directly over the carriage. A couple bungee cords around each keep them from swaying while moving the columns into final storage position.

My solution to the arms dragging on the floor uses a maybe 1/4" spacer (read: washers) under the end of the lift cylinder in the bottom of the column. Adjust the spacer thickness for the floor clearance needed. A little epoxy will glue washers together easily for thickness adjustment. I also glued felt furniture pads under 4 places on each arm when I had an epoxy floor. Saves the floor paint even while just installing/removing the arms from the carriages. Those pads save the paint on the columns when the arms are hanging on them in storage too,

The lift pads and the extension live in a plastic sterilite storage tote, kept on the bottom shelf of a close-by cabinet. Heavy but not too heavy to move. Two sets of extensions (short and long), the pads, bolts and socket, a set of hockey pucks with rubber feet screwed on for centering, tennis ball with string through it drapes between the posts to center the car. Pull the bin out, take the pieces I need, slide it back.

My local industrial hardware store offered grade-8 bolts and washers with a nice cad plating. Much better than the, um, bargain bolts that came with the lift. My workbay has porcelain tile on the floor, so the anchors are set deeper below the surface. The holes are diamond-sawn at 1" through the tile, then 7/8 the rest of the way for cinch anchors. 1/2" longer bolts. A plastic 1" "chassis plug" covers each of the the holes when the lift is in storage. Flat to the floor practically.

Reading through the first pages, you mention the base spacing and wishing the bases were further apart. I added another row of 3 anchors behind the original set of 5, same center-to-center spacing as the first set. Offers about 4" more space between the columns for cars with lift points closer to the sills, or wider pad spacing. I did both sides, but your install against the wall on one side might convince you to put 2 new rows of holes behind the middle post holes.

I picked up my lift directly from GES in Moorpark on my car trailer, handy when I lived in Glendale above Los Angeles ten years or so ago. They were the distributors/importers/US agents for Danmar, and also brokered Bend-Pak out of the same building. Might be a possible point of contact if your other channel collapses.

 

[garagelogician]

Yes, regguy, the lock bars (or any safety lock for that matter) do ease concerns of hydraulic failure. I know very well about the MaxJax. My invention/patent.

JSK: I see that BendPak has bought out Danmar and will be selling the lift branded as a MaxJax M6, shipping August 2020. Are there any changes being made from the Danmar M6?

I've come full circle on which lift I'm looking to get, and am seriously considering purchasing one this fall.

 

[Rodbuilder]

Thanks Jag that describes my issue exactly. I will check it out as well as put another call into Bend Pak

Sorry I didn't post earlier. I spent quite a bit of time talking to BP and long story short is they have no parts, will not honor warranty and will not support the max jax so in my case I'm screwed.

 

[JohnnyK8]

Wow that is such horseshit!

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[MileHighRover]

...long story short is they have no parts, will not honor warranty and will not support the max jax...

Same info posted in another thread a while back. Very disappointing to hear it again.

I purchased mine April of last year. Bought the extended warranty, too, just in case. I have had zero issues with mine. I just hope that continues since it is no longer supported.

 

[petee_c]

My maxjax is starting to get a little uneven in terms of lifting and lowering speeds between the two posts....

I've had it almost 10 yrs I would guess.

There were some posts about a flow controller. I may need one (or 2) of those as with some vehicles it's almost 6" out at full lift.

Just a home guy. I might lift a vehicle a few times a month, but then go months without lifting up a car.

Disappointing that they aren't supported anymore.



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[Jagmandave]

Sorry I didn't post earlier. I spent quite a bit of time talking to BP and long story short is they have no parts, will not honor warranty and will not support the max jax so in my case I'm screwed.

You're not screwed, you just have to fix it yourself......If you have the sticking problem, the answer is to sand off the coating inside the column that the slides ride on. Once you have it cleared off, lube it up and it should work the way it was designed.

 

[Rodbuilder]

My maxjax is starting to get a little uneven in terms of lifting and lowering speeds between the two posts....

I've had it almost 10 yrs I would guess.

There were some posts about a flow controller. I may need one (or 2) of those as with some vehicles it's almost 6" out at full lift.

Just a home guy. I might lift a vehicle a few times a month, but then go months without lifting up a car.

Disappointing that they aren't supported anymore.



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Drain and replace the fluid then go through the bleed process a couple times. If the problem still persists then the next step would be the controller, BP may have parts for it as they are going to be selling the same lift. If not it might need a new pump assembly that should be available. Good luck.