Maybe someone could help explain just what I have

[threeputt]

I had my old style fuse style panel removed almost 20 years ago and replaced with a 120 amp Cutler Hammer breaker style in my unfinished basement .
Outside and directly opposite is the meter and below the meter another panel with four other breakers. 30 amp Dryer breaker, Heatpump with one 30 amp and one 60 amp. Then it has the 100 amp breaker that disconnects the Cutler Hammer inside basement.

Would the Cutler Hammer be a Sub panel ? Outside I see a # 6 bare copper wire ( shown with red arrow that goes into basement and back outside tied to a ground rod in the ground. Not sure why it was done that way. I see no ground rod tied to the Cutler Hammer inside.
I paid an electrician to do this work for me way back then .

Grounds and neutrals are not separated as shown in picture if it is supposed to be a sub panel. Bar is still strapped across as shown in picture also.
Never had any issues and everything may be correct but just wanted to ask.


I am not sure I explained it good but if I didn't please feel free to ask. Thanks

 

[sparky 1971]

The panel inside is a subpanel, get a couple of Eaton ground bars, put one on each side and move the grounds to them and you'll be fine. Should be pretty easy since there aren't vey many.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

yeah they screwed up. its a subpanel

as said above, need to add ground bars and move branch ground wires over along with feeder ground (large aluminum wire)

also need to make sure the neutral bars arent bonded

the large #6 ground wire you mentioned should go to plumbing inside to bond it

 

[sparky 1971]

^^this^^
I left out remove the bonding screw in my other post because I couldn't see it on my little tablet. Now that I'm on the desk top, I can see a bonding strap. It's on the left side of the inside panel and connects the neutral bar to the back of the panel. Take it out and throw it away.

 

[threeputt]

^^this^^
I left out remove the bonding screw in my other post because I couldn't see it on my little tablet. Now that I'm on the desk top, I can see a bonding strap. It's on the left side of the inside panel and connects the neutral bar to the back of the panel. Take it out and throw it away.

Thanks. I see in the picture I will upload that he put the neutral wire on the ground side .
Wouldn't I have to buy a Ground bar collar strap ( shown in my pictures ) for the bottom right of CH panel for the one that is missing so I could take one he split and put it on ground side where he put the neutral wire ? Not sure the neutral wire will reach to the neutral side of panel but I think I can make it work.

I would then remove the strap ( shown with red arrows ) that goes across from ground to neutral in Cutler Hammer panel . I would then use a #6 bare copper wire connected to ground side lug strap in CH panel and connect it to an 8 foot ground rod . I think code says at least 6 foot apart ?

I show how someone did the # 6 copper ground wire that comes in basement and then back out tied to the lone ground rod. I could cut some off that one off and clean ground rod and connect it back ?? Its not that far from the panel outside to ground rod. Someone went the long way around to do this.

Again, I hope I explained this good. Please correct me if I messed up

 

[sparky 1971]

Those are both neutral bars. You need to take all the grounds off of them and put them on a ground bar that you will have to buy separately. Throw the existing strap in the trash. An Eaton ground bar should work, the mounting holes should match up to existing holes in your panel. My copy and paste won't work, so Google "Eaton ground bar", get two, one for each side.
As far as the #6, it should go from the water pipe in the basement to the ground/neutral bar in the outside panel. There should also be a #6 from that panel to the ground rod, and there should probably be two ground rods, both tied together with the #6.

Edit: Now that I am on the desk top, I can see the red arrows. If the tie bar will come out, you could do that, leave the bonding ********, and use the left bar for the grounds and the right for the neutrals. Some of the wires probably won't reach, so you will have to splice them. It will be a whole bunch easier to throw a regular ground bar in and be done with it though. And, in either case, there will be no need for the ground lug, which you are calling a ground bar collar strap. The metal of the neutral bar should not be attached to the metal of the panel in any way.

Now that I'm on a real computer, I can copy and paste.

Eaton 10 Terminal Ground Bar Kit GBK1020CS - The Home Depot

Visit the Home Depot to buy Eaton 10-Terminal Grounding Bar Kit GBK1020CS

www.homedepot.com

Eaton 21-Terminal Ground Bar Kit GBK21CS - The Home Depot

Enjoy the Eaton Cutler-Hammer 21-Terminal Load Center Ground Bar GBK21CS, UL listed designed for use with Challenger, Eaton and Westinghouse load centers at The Home Depot

www.homedepot.com

Thanks. I see in the picture I will upload that he put the neutral wire on the ground side .
Wouldn't I have to buy a Ground bar collar strap ( shown in my pictures ) for the bottom right of CH panel for the one that is missing so I could take one he split and put it on ground side where he put the neutral wire ? Not sure the neutral wire will reach to the neutral side of panel but I think I can make it work.

I would then remove the strap ( shown with red arrows ) that goes across from ground to neutral in Cutler Hammer panel . I would then use a #6 bare copper wire connected to ground side lug strap in CH panel and connect it to an 8 foot ground rod . I think code says at least 6 foot apart ?

I show how someone did the # 6 copper ground wire that comes in basement and then back out tied to the lone ground rod. I could cut some off that one off and clean ground rod and connect it back ?? Its not that far from the panel outside to ground rod. Someone went the long way around to do this.

Again, I hope I explained this good. Please correct me if I messed up

 

[wyliesdiesels]

leave the black insulated tie bar between the 2 neutral bars at the bottom, remove the bonding ******** the left bar and add a ground bar to each side of the panel. this will help to keep the wiring clean and is less work than trying to extend neutral and ground wires from each side of the panel that dont reach. move all grounds including the feeder ground to the new bars.

 

[threeputt]

Those are both neutral bars. You need to take all the grounds off of them and put them on a ground bar that you will have to buy separately. Throw the existing strap in the trash. An Eaton ground bar should work, the mounting holes should match up to existing holes in your panel. My copy and paste won't work, so Google "Eaton ground bar", get two, one for each side.
As far as the #6, it should go from the water pipe in the basement to the ground/neutral bar in the outside panel. There should also be a #6 from that panel to the ground rod, and there should probably be two ground rods, both tied together with the #6.

Thanks. I was thinking because of the green screw that is bonded to panel on the left side of this panel that it was the ground side. Thew other side didn't have this.

I did find the Eaton ground bar but I got to make sure it fits.

As far as the ground wire going to water pipe. I don't know where they would be because I re plumbed this house 30 years ago with CPVC. The # 6 bare copper wire is tied to the ground rod I showed in this picture.

There is a pipe driven in the ground close to ground rod. It may have been tied to water pipes years ago. When I just looked I did notice one small ground wire is broke that I need to connect back. Could have been an old phone line ground that is no longer used.

 

[sparky 1971]

Thanks. I was thinking because of the green screw that is bonded to panel on the left side of this panel that it was the ground side. Thew other side didn't have this.

That little bar that runs between the green screw and the neutral bar is the bonding strap. That's what you need to remove in order to isolate the neutrals. There won't be one on the other side, they are tied together by the tie bar that runs between the neutral bars (the bar you have the red arrows pointing at above).

I did find the Eaton ground bar but I got to make sure it fits.

As far as the ground wire going to water pipe. I don't know where they would be because I re plumbed this house 30 years ago with CPVC. The # 6 bare copper wire is tied to the ground rod I showed in this picture.

It goes to the incoming water service, on the street side of the meter if it's metallic, and if there is copper pipe coming from the meter, it should be there as well. You can install a pipe clamp on both sides the water meter and run a #6 through both of them. If you have a plastic water service pipe, you don't need to bond it.

There is a pipe driven in the ground close to ground rod. It may have been tied to water pipes years ago. When I just looked I did notice one small ground wire is broke that I need to connect back. Could have been an old phone line ground that is no longer used.

I don't know what the pipe would be for, maybe a TV or phone ground if the installer couldn't find the ground rod?. That doesn't connect to the water service, the water service needs to be connected to the neutral/ground bar in the main (outside) panel.

 

[threeputt]

yeah they screwed up. its a subpanel

as said above, need to add ground bars and move branch ground wires over along with feeder ground (large aluminum wire)

also need to make sure the neutral bars arent bonded

the large #6 ground wire you mentioned should go to plumbing inside to bond it

The # 6 ground wire goes to a ground rod right below main panel.
Water pipes are all CPVC. I re-plumbed this house in 1996 with the help of my wife so no metal pipes anymore.
Thanks for your help.

 

[sparky 1971]

The # 6 ground wire goes to a ground rod right below main panel.
Water pipes are all CPVC. I re-plumbed this house in 1996 with the help of my wife so no metal pipes anymore.
Thanks for your help.

If you have no metal piping system leaving the house, you don't need to worry about bonding the water pipe. It's when it's copper or galvanized going from the water meter to the street that it has to be bonded. I think I see the #6 you mentioned, I thought it was going to a water pipe, but I can see on my desk top that it's the AC line set. It goes inside and back outside, what are the ends connected to? You've probably alteady mentioned it, but I don't feel like going back and figuring it out. You should have a #6 going from the outside panel to two ground rods, no reason for it to go in the house at all.

 

[threeputt]

That little bar that runs between the green screw and the neutral bar is the bonding strap. That's what you need to remove in order to isolate the neutrals. There won't be one on the other side, they are tied together by the tie bar that runs between the neutral bars (the bar you have the red arrows pointing at above).

It goes to the incoming water service, on the street side of the meter if it's metallic, and if there is copper pipe coming from the meter, it should be there as well. You can install a pipe clamp on both sides the water meter and run a #6 through both of them. If you have a plastic water service pipe, you don't need to bond it.

I don't know what the pipe would be for, maybe a TV or phone ground if the installer couldn't find the ground rod?. That doesn't connect to the water service, the water service needs to be connected to the neutral/ground bar in the main (outside) panel.

If you have no metal piping system leaving the house, you don't need to worry about bonding the water pipe. It's when it's copper or galvanized going from the water meter to the street that it has to be bonded. I think I see the #6 you mentioned, I thought it was going to a water pipe, but I can see on my desk top that it's the AC line set. It goes inside and back outside, what are the ends connected to? You've probably alteady mentioned it, but I don't feel like going back and figuring it out. You should have a #6 going from the outside panel to two ground rods, no reason for it to go in the house at all.

That ground wire I mentioned goes from main panel bus bar and then into basement and back out another hole in block wall to ground rod a few feet from the house. Not sure why it was done that way but it was . I can shorten it and leave it outside
I need to find two new ground bars and figure out where I will mount them in this Cutler Hammer panel. Its sort of close in the panel . I assume these holes in panel are for adding more bars .
Thanks again.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

yes the holes are for the ground bars

do you have a gas line? that should be bonded as well

 

[sparky 1971]

That ground wire I mentioned goes from ground rod into the house and back out another hole in block wall to ground rod a few feet from the house. Not sure why it was done that way but it is.

The only thing I can think of is that he didn't want to dig a 6" deep trench to bury it.

I can shorten it and leave it outside as it goes to main panel ground bar.

You could also leave it as is. In another post you said the ground rod was under the panel, I couldn't figure out why it would leave the panel, go down and inside, run three feet over and back outside, then turn around and run back to under the panel. Kind of like a circle.

I need to find two new ground bars and figure out where I will mount them. Its sort of close in the panel . I assume these holes in panel are for adding more bars ?

That's what the holes are for, an Eaton should match up with something. Square D and Siemens probably have a 1/16" difference on the spacing and won't work, that would be too easy.

 

[threeputt]

yes the holes are for the ground bars

do you have a gas line? that should be bonded as well

Yes, I have natural gas. The meter is pretty close to main panel.

 

[sparky 1971]

Yes, I have natural gas. The meter is pretty close to main panel.

run a #6 from the pipe going from the meter into the house over to the main panel neutral/ground bar. All of that can stay outside. We aren't forced to do it unless it has the flexible yellow or orange csst piping in the house, but it's a good idea to do it regardless.

 

[KenC]

run a #6 from the pipe going from the meter into the house over to the main panel neutral/ground bar. All of that can stay outside. We aren't forced to do it unless it has the flexible yellow or orange csst piping in the house, but it's a good idea to do it regardless.

Does this still apply if the gas supply is plastic? The only iron pipe in the ground is the riser and it's epoxy coated so insulated from the soil.

 

[sparky 1971]

Does this still apply if the gas supply is plastic? The only iron pipe in the ground is the riser and it's epoxy coated so insulated from the soil.

If there is any CSST inside, it's supposed to be bonded as of I think the 2009 plumbing code. It's because lightning strikes can cause pinholes in the pipe. The #12 or 14 ground wire on gas appliances can't clear it fast enough. Black iron and a black version of the flexible tubing called counterstrike don't need the bonding, but a lot of jurisdictions require it anyway.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Does this still apply if the gas supply is plastic? The only iron pipe in the ground is the riser and it's epoxy coated so insulated from the soil.

the issue isnt on the supply side. the issue is on the load side where metal gas piping can become energized. are you saying all the gas lines in your house are plastic? that would be odd

 

[threeputt]

After reading what is suggested here I have a better understanding of how all this works. Excellent posts here on this topic.
The Eaton 10 terminal ground bar kit Sparky 1971 suggested seems like one to buy.

Would I use the large lug on that one to put the large ground wire that was twisted into two wires ? I didn't see a bolt that comes with it but that shouldn't be an issue. Otherwise I will just move it over like it is now and connect it to new ground bar I install ? That's what I think anyway. I may be incorrect on this wire so please let me know.

I do think it would be better as suggested here that I just buy two of these ground bar kits and just bolt them on so I don't have to move wires around . I will remove the green screw and bonding ******** left side of panel also. Our home depot don't have ground bar kit in stock but I can order it and have it shipped to our store.

 

[sparky 1971]

After reading what is suggested here I have a better understanding of how all this works. Excellent posts here on this topic.
The Eaton 10 terminal ground bar kit Sparky 1971 suggested seems like one to buy.

Would I use the large lug on that one to put the large ground wire that was twisted into two wires ? I didn't see a bolt that comes with it but that shouldn't be an issue. Otherwise I will just move it over like it is now and connect it to new ground bar I install ? That's what I think anyway. I may be incorrect on this wire so please let me know.

I do think it would be better as suggested here that I just buy two of these ground bar kits and just bolt them on so I don't have to move wires around . I will remove the green screw and bonding ******** left side of panel also. Our home depot don't have ground bar kit in stock but I can order it and have it shipped to our store.

Yes, that's the main reason I posted that particular ground bar. Untwist the wires where the split into two, and put them back together the right way. The bar for the other side can be the same or one without the larger lug, you might save a couple of bucks by getting one without. And the set screw for the lug will be in the package.

 

[threeputt]

Yes, that's the main reason I posted that particular ground bar. Untwist the wires where the split into two, and put them back together the right way. The bar for the other side can be the same or one without the larger lug, you might save a couple of bucks by getting one without. And the set screw for the lug will be in the package.

I will get one of each on what you posted.
I really appreciate your help.

 

[threeputt]

My electric range is wired from the sub panel to range with an SEU cable from what I read and looking how's its made. I have searched and from what I found is this .

This cable can be utilized as either a neutral or ground as long as the cable originates at the main service panel which is does. This wire has been in my house for the 51 years I have owned it and I am sure its the one installed when house was built.

There is a 60 amp breaker in it now that was installed by the electrician I hired back years ago when this CH was installed. We never use anything on this range but the top burners.

My question is. Since I will be installing the ground bars in this sub panel do I connect the stranded wire on the neutral or green ground bar ?

Here are a few pictures of what I have now.

 

[Norcal]

SEU cannot be used for a range, or dryer. when supplied from a subpanel, it can only be used when fed from the main panel.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

gonna have to run a new circuit.

 

[Chuckster in NJ]

the issue isnt on the supply side. the issue is on the load side where metal gas piping can become energized. are you saying all the gas lines in your house are plastic? that would be odd

Most likely he is thinking of the CSST gas pipe as a "plastic" gas line.……. The CSST need to be bonded!

 

[threeputt]

SEU cannot be used for a range, or dryer. when supplied from a subpanel, it can only be used when fed from the main panel.

8-3 THHN wire ok for this ? It shouldn't be hard to do . I think about 40 feet is what I need down through the floor and across to sub panel in basement. Is the 60 amp breaker ok for this ?

 

[sparky 1971]

8-3 THHN wire ok for this ? It shouldn't be hard to do . I think about 40 feet is what I need down through the floor and across to sub panel in basement. Is the 60 amp breaker ok for this ?

8/3 will be good to go with a 40 amp breaker and that will be more than plenty for the range, which is supposed to have a 50 amp breaker max. If you want to go with a 50 amp breaker and be code compliant, you will need to step it up to 6/3 which is miserable to work with when it comes to stuffing it as well as a receptacle into the outlet box.

Are you sure an electrician did this? Between the 60 amp range breaker and the bonded sub panel, I think you might have been taken for a ride.

 

[threeputt]

8/3 will be good to go with a 40 amp breaker and that will be more than plenty for the range, which is supposed to have a 50 amp breaker max. If you want to go with a 50 amp breaker and be code compliant, you will need to step it up to 6/3 which is miserable to work with when it comes to stuffing it as well as a receptacle into the outlet box.

Are you sure an electrician did this? Between the 60 amp range breaker and the bonded sub panel, I think you might have been taken for a ride.

Thanks. 8/3 it is. 40 amp breaker is a win.
He did this in March of 2007. I found the invoice last week ( $ 600 he charged me ) to remove the old fuse panel and install one new 12-2 wire from panel to my desktop computer and monitor.

He drilled a hole in my floor to gain access from the basement. To be honest I am not sure he used the correct box on that . He put a four plug in that hole .

I had him install a switch in the hallway going down the steps to our basement so we could see going down the steps.

I have no clue if he had a license or not. I would say now that he didn't. I just remember someone telling me back then that he was a good one to do what I needed .

Did I mention he installed five 30 amp breakers in that sub panel. All on 12-2 wire. I guess that's all he had on his truck because they looked new. There are no 30 amp circuits in this sub panel. My dryer is outside in the main panel and that's the only 30 amp circuit I have in the house.

I was working full time back then and wasn't here to check him out. I just got to checking a while back and thought something might not be right about all this.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

8-3 THHN wire ok for this ? It shouldn't be hard to do . I think about 40 feet is what I need down through the floor and across to sub panel in basement. Is the 60 amp breaker ok for this ?

if its THHN/THWN, it will need to be in conduit.

 

[threeputt]

if its THHN/THWN, it will need to be in conduit.

Is there any wire I could run down from kitchen and over to panel through floor joists without using conduit ? 8/3 NM maybe ?

 

[wyliesdiesels]

yes, NM-b or SER

 

[threeputt]

The electric range now has a surface mount outlet and that's the one I would like to install if possible ? Would what's in the picture I uploaded work using a 40 amp breaker for this Whirlpool range ? or maybe something more heavy duty ? I could go with 6/3 wire but I am thinking it would be stiff to get into this sub-panel. I would have to add running boards I believe. I don't want to drill holes in the joist for this 8/3 wire unless I just have to .
I would just have to find the range cord that matches this receptacle . I assume HD would have one. Thanks for any help.

 

[sparky 1971]

The electric range now has a surface mount outlet and that's the one I would like to install if possible ? Would what's in the picture I uploaded work using a 40 amp breaker for this Whirlpool range ? or maybe something more heavy duty ? I could go with 6/3 wire but I am thinking it would be stiff to get into this sub-panel. I would have to add running boards I believe. I don't want to drill holes in the joist for this 8/3 wire unless I just have to .
I would just have to find the range cord that matches this receptacle . I assume HD would have one. Thanks for any help.

8/3 is fine with a 40 amp breaker, as is the four prong doghouse outlet. Any box store will have the matching cord. It would be much easier to drill holes, 8/3 doesn't need a very big one, I run with 7/8, but I bet it would fit in a 3/4.

One thing to be careful about is: I am going to guess that you are planning on going through the floor into the bottom of the outlet, which would be on the wall. Make sure the cord will plug into it, It's a heck of a bend when that close to the floor. Based on that, I am going to suggest a 2-1/8 deep 4X4 box, raised cover, and a 14-50R turned sideways so the hot terminals are at 6 and 12 o'clock and the neutral and ground are in the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. That way, the cord can go back and forth instead of up and down. I'm not a fan of HD, but will put links below.

Southwire 4 in. W x 2-1/8 in. D Steel Metallic 2-Square Box with Eight 1/2 in. Ko, Two 3/4 in. Ko, 6 Cko, 1-Pack 52171-S-UPC - The Home Depot

Provide a sleek look to your traditional outdoor space with Southwire W x D Steel Metallic Square Box with Eight Ko Two Ko.

www.homedepot.com

Southwire 4 in. W Steel Metallic 1-Gang Exposed Work Square Cover for 2.141 in. Dia 30 Amp to 50 Amp Round Receptacle (1-Pack) G1944-UPC - The Home Depot

Provide a sleek look to your traditional outdoor space with Southwire W Steel Metallic Exposed Work Square Cover for Dia to Round Receptacle.

www.homedepot.com

Leviton 50 Amp Flush Mount Shallow Single Outlet, Black 279-S00 R10-00279-S00 - The Home Depot

Flush Mount Shallow Single Outlet, Black from Leviton is designed for use in recreational vehicles. Features UL and CSA listed.

www.homedepot.com

 

[threeputt]

8/3 is fine with a 40 amp breaker, as is the four prong doghouse outlet. Any box store will have the matching cord. It would be much easier to drill holes, 8/3 doesn't need a very big one, I run with 7/8, but I bet it would fit in a 3/4.

One thing to be careful about is: I am going to guess that you are planning on going through the floor into the bottom of the outlet, which would be on the wall. Make sure the cord will plug into it, It's a heck of a bend when that close to the floor. Based on that, I am going to suggest a 2-1/8 deep 4X4 box, raised cover, and a 14-50R turned sideways so the hot terminals are at 6 and 12 o'clock and the neutral and ground are in the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. That way, the cord can go back and forth instead of up and down. I'm not a fan of HD, but will put links below.

Southwire 4 in. W x 2-1/8 in. D Steel Metallic 2-Square Box with Eight 1/2 in. Ko, Two 3/4 in. Ko, 6 Cko, 1-Pack 52171-S-UPC - The Home Depot

Provide a sleek look to your traditional outdoor space with Southwire W x D Steel Metallic Square Box with Eight Ko Two Ko.

www.homedepot.com

Southwire 4 in. W Steel Metallic 1-Gang Exposed Work Square Cover for 2.141 in. Dia 30 Amp to 50 Amp Round Receptacle (1-Pack) G1944-UPC - The Home Depot

Provide a sleek look to your traditional outdoor space with Southwire W Steel Metallic Exposed Work Square Cover for Dia to Round Receptacle.

www.homedepot.com

Leviton 50 Amp Flush Mount Shallow Single Outlet, Black 279-S00 R10-00279-S00 - The Home Depot

Flush Mount Shallow Single Outlet, Black from Leviton is designed for use in recreational vehicles. Features UL and CSA listed.

www.homedepot.com

Yes, I was planning on going out the bottom of outlet. A hole is already in the floor close to my pine paneling and I am almost sure the 8/3 would go into that hole. I was thinking looking at what I posted it might be too sharp a bend for the cord and I do think your suggestion would work better. Good suggestion
Our HD don't have any of these in stock, at least the 8/3 wire and ground buss bars. I just wanted to order everything at once and have them ship to our HD store.

One other thing is mounting the two ground buss bars suggested earlier on each side. This sub-panel is mounted to a cinder block wall in my unfinished basement. It don't look like much room for the ground bar mounting screws before they could hit the block wall. Do these two ground buss bar mounting screws stick though the panel very far ? I can measure and see how much clearance I have . Looks to be about an 1/8th of a inch before it could hit the cinder blocks. I guess I will just have to wait until I get them to know for sure.

 

[sparky 1971]

Yes, I was planning on going out the bottom of outlet. A hole is already in the floor close to my pine paneling and I am almost sure the 8/3 would go into that hole. I was thinking looking at what I posted it might be too sharp a bend for the cord and I do think your suggestion would work better. Good suggestion
Our HD don't have any of these in stock, at least the 8/3 wire and ground buss bars. I just wanted to order everything at once and have them ship to our HD store.

HD should have everything in stock, but it might be a different brand. All that really matters is that it's a 2-1/8" deep 4X4. Make sure you don't get 1-1/2 deep.

One other thing is mounting the two ground buss bars suggested earlier on each side. This sub-panel is mounted to a cinder block wall in my unfinished basement. It don't look like much room for the ground bar mounting screws before they could hit the block wall. Do these two ground buss bar mounting screws stick though the panel very far ? I can measure and see how much clearance I have . Looks to be about an 1/8th of a inch before it could hit the cinder blocks. I guess I will just have to wait until I get them to know for sure.

They don't go through very far, if at all. I bet you'll be ok.

 

[threeputt]

I got everything but one buss bar and range wire. For some reason there is a delay in shipping on it and the 8/3 wire.

I didn't want to bore holes in all the floor joists so I added what I think would be a running board. I used 1 x 4's I had stored to do the running boards.

I have a 20 GFCI outlet in the first run from panel wired to line side and load side heads downstream heading to bath and other small room.

 

[sparky 1971]

I got everything but one buss bar and range wire. For some reason there is a delay in shipping on it and the 8/3 wire.

While I am waiting on it I wanted to run a new 12/2 wire from sub panel to basement 1/2 bath for lights . I will also add lights and one outlet in small room before bath. The yellow wire is what I installed. The white wire ( also 12/2 ) was done by an electrician 18 years ago and you could hang clothes on it lol

Old wire had been damaged when they installed duct work years ago. The bare copper was wedged into the metal duct as shown in picture. Not good.


I didn't want to bore holes in all the floor joists so I added what I think would be a running board. I used 1 x 4's I had stored to do the running boards.

I have a 20 GFCI outlet in the first run from panel wired to line side and load side heads downstream heading to bath and other small room.

I want to make sure I can bend the wires like shown in picture. I couldn't put running boards because of plumbing pipes there so I had to drill through two joists. I did this plumbing 30 years ago and still good
I hope this is ok. Thanks

You're fine. The cable leaving the GFI might be bent a little tight, but hard to tell from the picture. The only real code violation is that the bathroom outlet shouldn't be on a circuit with anything other than the bathroom, but I might have installed a receptacle for a freezer on the same circuit as my basement bathroom when I remodeled it about 10 years ago so who am I to judge?

 

[threeputt]

You're fine. The cable leaving the GFI might be bent a little tight, but hard to tell from the picture. The only real code violation is that the bathroom outlet shouldn't be on a circuit with anything other than the bathroom, but I might have installed a receptacle for a freezer on the same circuit as my basement bathroom when I remodeled it about 10 years ago so who am I to judge?

The only power in the bathroom is one porcelain light . I checked the wire running to the GFCI and it doesn't seem tight. Maybe the picture shows it that way.
I found 33 foot of new 8/3 stranded wire (NM-B ) just like I showed in earlier picture today at my shop. It was left over from work my son had done at his home about 15 years ago. I don't throw away things. lol
Does code allow electric range wire to be connected in a junction box ? or does it have to be one wire ?
No big deal either way because I can buy a 50 foot roll.
Thanks again.

 

[sparky 1971]

The only power in the bathroom is one porcelain light . I checked the wire running to the GFCI and it doesn't seem tight. Maybe the picture shows it that way.
I found 33 foot of new 8/3 stranded wire (NM-B ) just like I showed in earlier picture today at my shop. It was left over from work my son had done at his home about 15 years ago. I don't throw away things. lol
Does code allow electric range wire to be connected in a junction box ? or does it have to be one wire ?
No big deal either way because I can buy a 50 foot roll.
Thanks again.

You can use a junction box as long as it remains accessible.