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Maybe someone could help explain just what I have

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sparky 1971

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Thanks again. It would always remain accessible if I choose to use what I found today plus 25 ft more I would purchase. I had no clue that copper wire had went up that much in price. :)
It's actually come down a lot in the last couple of years. Still about 20- 30% more than before the "pandemic"
 
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threeputt

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You're fine. The cable leaving the GFI might be bent a little tight, but hard to tell from the picture. The only real code violation is that the bathroom outlet shouldn't be on a circuit with anything other than the bathroom, but I might have installed a receptacle for a freezer on the same circuit as my basement bathroom when I remodeled it about 10 years ago so who am I to judge?
You were correct. I think I had that load wire leaving the GFCI bent a little too much.
 
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drivesitfar

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It looks like I can learn more about wiring if I read this thread so I’ll dive into it later and learn and or comment if I have anything to add or questions.
 
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threeputt

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I know it is 15 months later but I wanted to give an update.

Problems that I had no control of happened and I never got around to doing anything with this sub-panel other than installing the new ground buss.
Not much of an update but I plan on getting a license electrician to do this job.
 
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mm08822

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The 4 wire changeover is the safer route.

However, 250.140(B) (5) requires the bare neutral to be insulated to prevent contact with the sub-panel grounded surfaces as that cable enters the sub-panel and outer jacket removed.
This can be accomplished by taping the conductor or adding sleeving material (shrink tube) along the bare conductor's entire length within the sub-panel until it terminates on a neutral bar.

You still need to add the ground bars, remove the bonding strap from the lefthand neutral bar and move any ground wire currently landed on neutral bars onto the ground bars.
 

cpakalolo

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Thanks. I was thinking because of the green screw that is bonded to panel on the left side of this panel that it was the ground side. Thew other side didn't have this.

I did find the Eaton ground bar but I got to make sure it fits.

As far as the ground wire going to water pipe. I don't know where they would be because I re plumbed this house 30 years ago with CPVC. The # 6 bare copper wire is tied to the ground rod I showed in this picture.

There is a pipe driven in the ground close to ground rod. It may have been tied to water pipes years ago. When I just looked I did notice one small ground wire is broke that I need to connect back. Could have been an old phone line ground that is no longer used.
Isn't that a ground rod next to the pipe in the picture? We really don't use water lines or gas lines anymore. Too often plastic is used somewhere and the ground gets lost. I live on solid rock and I drilled mine for four panels six feet down with a concrete drill and packed them with conducting grout. I'm sensitive to lightning strikes since I've been lucky enough to survive 3 times. The power company didn't do a good ground at the pedestal and the transformer headed for the tops of the trees during a strike where I was working on a panel. Our milk cow was struck during a vigorous storm and it bounced off my dad and hit me. The third time I was watching tv in my living room when it hit a tree a couple feet away. All I lost was a finger and some flesh on the foot and shoulder. The other two times, I got burns and an impact injury. A lot of lightning here. A bolt came out of the tv and went through my leg to my desklamp post. So, I think grounding is very important.
 
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threeputt

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The 4 wire changeover is the safer route.

However, 250.140(B) (5) requires the bare neutral to be insulated to prevent contact with the sub-panel grounded surfaces as that cable enters the sub-panel and outer jacket removed.
This can be accomplished by taping the conductor or adding sleeving material (shrink tube) along the bare conductor's entire length within the sub-panel until it terminates on a neutral bar.

You still need to add the ground bars, remove the bonding strap from the lefthand neutral bar and move any ground wire currently landed on neutral bars onto the ground bars.
It was late when I posted and I just edited it and said I would hire an electrician.

This morning after I got to thinking I may have changed my mind. I have called two and they never showed up. I can do this job without an issue .
I am able to shut all power off to sub- panel with the 100 amp breaker outside . I like the idea of heat shrink on this wire ? I also have another ground bar as it was suggested that I buy two so I don't have to re-route the few grounds that are in this panel all the way over to the other side.
I know the 4-wire way would be the best route but it would be tough to get those wires into this panel safely .
In the last picture here I would remove the ground bonding strap so my neutrals would be 100 % isolated from ground. I would then take the bare aluminum that is shown in last picture wire and twist it into one wire and put it on the new ground buss at bottom. I would use quality heat shrink on the bare oven wire on left and leave it on neutral buss. I would then remove the bare copper ground wires and put them on my new ground buss. I think that would be correct.
 

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threeputt

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Isn't that a ground rod next to the pipe in the picture? We really don't use water lines or gas lines anymore. Too often plastic is used somewhere and the ground gets lost. I live on solid rock and I drilled mine for four panels six feet down with a concrete drill and packed them with conducting grout. I'm sensitive to lightning strikes since I've been lucky enough to survive 3 times. The power company didn't do a good ground at the pedestal and the transformer headed for the tops of the trees during a strike where I was working on a panel. Our milk cow was struck during a vigorous storm and it bounced off my dad and hit me. The third time I was watching tv in my living room when it hit a tree a couple feet away. All I lost was a finger and some flesh on the foot and shoulder. The other two times, I got burns and an impact injury. A lot of lightning here. A bolt came out of the tv and went through my leg to my desklamp post. So, I think grounding is very important.
The city just replaced my gas meter with a smart meter and they didn't connect any ground wires to it so they are no longer there.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Aug 14, 2012
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Modesto, CA
Isn't that a ground rod next to the pipe in the picture? We really don't use water lines or gas lines anymore. Too often plastic is used somewhere and the ground gets lost. I live on solid rock and I drilled mine for four panels six feet down with a concrete drill and packed them with conducting grout. I'm sensitive to lightning strikes since I've been lucky enough to survive 3 times. The power company didn't do a good ground at the pedestal and the transformer headed for the tops of the trees during a strike where I was working on a panel. Our milk cow was struck during a vigorous storm and it bounced off my dad and hit me. The third time I was watching tv in my living room when it hit a tree a couple feet away. All I lost was a finger and some flesh on the foot and shoulder. The other two times, I got burns and an impact injury. A lot of lightning here. A bolt came out of the tv and went through my leg to my desklamp post. So, I think grounding is very important.

ummm wow! :shocking: :shocking:

go buy a few lotto tickets
 
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