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Mayhew Pro Punch Mushroomed A Bit, Punch is Suitable for Impact Use

winlinmac

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I recently used one of the punches from my Mayhew Pro Punch Set, and one of the punches mushroomed at the tip. I wasn't expecting this to occur; I was only using a 2 1/2 pound hammer on the Punch to knock out a pinch bolt. The extent of deformation at the tip was a little more than compared to my cheaper Craftsman (Western Forge). Are these punches supposed to mushroom that fast? Its only gone through its first use. :confused:
 
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LXCam

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It's supposed to be somewhat soft so it doesn't shatter. How bad are we talking, enough to curl and split. Also how does the tip look, undamaged I presume.
 

atomicpunk

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Take it over to the bench grinder and grind it off, have to this to most punches and chisel heads eventually.
 

Fedwrench

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I'm only guessing that your punch was smaller than half the diameter of the pinch bolt and you were beating it into submission with a 2.5 pound hammer :wtf: mushrooming would be expected as the punch was probably the weakest link of the three parts involved. I would not blame the quality of the punch.
 
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winlinmac

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You're absolutely right, I used the 3/8" Punch from Mayhew Pro 62235 set on a M10 Pinch Bolt. Hitting on a not so perfectly centered angle due to the clearance issues I faced. I'm still deal with a rusted Pinch Bolt. Interestingly, the Western Forge (smaller size) did not deform as much and that one clearly stated Not for Impact Use.

Do they sell individual replacements instead of rebuying the set as whole?

I'm only guessing that your punch was smaller than half the diameter of the pinch bolt and you were beating it into submission with a 2.5 pound hammer :wtf: mushrooming would be expected as the punch was probably the weakest link of the three parts involved. I would not blame the quality of the punch.
 

T45

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I'm guessing a 9.5mm point tapered starter punch would not be messed up, but the p/n you gave is for a long alignment/drift punch.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TQ2SGE/?tag=atomicindus08-20

A drift "punch" is misleadingly named; it is not used as a punch in the traditional sense of the term. A drift punch, or drift pin, or lineup punch, is used as an aid in aligning bolt or rivet holes prior to inserting a fastener. A drift punch is constructed as a tapered rod, with the hammer acting on the large end of the taper. The tapered end of a drift punch is placed into the semi-aligned bolt holes of two separate components, and then driven into the hole. As it is driven in, the taper forces the two components into alignment, allowing for easy insertion of the fastener. Unlike most punches, force is never (and should never be) applied to the tip, or end of a drift pin.
 

gdocktor3

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A drift "punch" is misleadingly named; it is not used as a punch in the traditional sense of the term. A drift punch, or drift pin, or lineup punch, is used as an aid in aligning bolt or rivet holes prior to inserting a fastener. A drift punch is constructed as a tapered rod, with the hammer acting on the large end of the taper. The tapered end of a drift punch is placed into the semi-aligned bolt holes of two separate components, and then driven into the hole. As it is driven in, the taper forces the two components into alignment, allowing for easy insertion of the fastener. Unlike most punches, force is never (and should never be) applied to the tip, or end of a drift pin.

^^^^^This. Exactly this.

User error in this case. Again...

It is impact suitable because the tip is not meant to be striking a hard surface. It is instead meant to be pushed through the holes in two objects, bringing them perfectly in line with each other. I always think to myself - a drift pin is used when an object needs to "drift" over for alignment purposes.

On top of being called drift punch, drift pin, alignment pin, lineup punch, etc, the larger versions are called "lady foot pry bars" and are handy when aligning large items. I use them a lot when doing suspension work and big stuff like that. https://www.zoro.com/mayhew-lady-fo...fuimhrpppkDdw3ZvnbdDsaAsNY8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
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leg17

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Punches and chisels are not precision tools.
Regular use will demonstrate that they could be considered perishable tools.
Use em.
Use em up.
Repair or replace.
 
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winlinmac

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Thanks for the clarification, whats rather odd is that prior to purchasing this set, a fellow member here (not on this thread) recommended me to purchase this particular set for removal of the pinch bolt on my car's suspension. Also, I see lots of mechanics using this exact part number, I guess they really don't care since its an easy warranty replacement for them. :D

Is there a part number consisting of a set I can purchase? This link pulls up a set, but doesn't seem to include the sizes from the current set, http://www.mayhew.com/pro-punches-pin-i.php
 
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winlinmac

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Thank you very much :)
Looks very similar to my Craftsman (Western Forge). Yet the ones included with the Mayhew Pro appear to be a larger size which is what I need. :beer:

Here are the Mayhews - https://www.zoro.com/mayhew-pro-dri...ZLCEAKGA6kmj4lUQr29hQaArkd8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

Don't forget to look for coupon/promo codes. There are a lot of other brands besides Mayhew

Here are some by Proto - https://www.zoro.com/proto-roll-pin-punch-set-not-tether-capable-j49007/i/G0841145/
 

Loscaldazar

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Didn't see it posted yet....

Proper use of Pin punches dictates that you use a starter punch to get the pin moving, and then switch to the appropriately sized pin punch to actually drive the pin out. Starter punches are much more durable and tough (due to the thicker shank and reduced taper compared to a pin punch).

If you don't have a set of starter punches, get one. I use them more than all my other punches combined.
 

T45

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I'd look at this p/n PB 730.10, the 10mm starter punch -- is on a 16mm (5/8 inch) shank -- should be up to some tasks pretty strong.

http://www.pbswisstools.com/en/qual...base/details.html?tx_pbtools_pi3[tool]=PB_730
735.jpg

Try to find a mayhew or proto on sale if you don't like above brand, but this stats is what you should be looking for--nice short-ish taper to a thick, hex shank.

Alignment punch has a long taper, and for obvious reasons not what you need here.
 
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winlinmac

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Oh, its on a VAG Car alright :3gears:
I don't know how Audi could have conceived an idea like this. The right tool costs over $500. What were they thinking is quite obvious. :lol:

This wouldn't be on a VAG car, would it?
 

gdocktor3

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While I have a few different brands of punches (Starrett, Proto, Snap On, Stanley, Dasco, Older WF Craftsman) my favorite go to set is my Starrett. Unlike any of the other brands I have, the Starretts are round and have a real deep, knurled grip on the handles and it makes using them in wet/greasy conditions much nicer. The others all have a smooth, squared handle. Plus, they're shorter than my others. As the other brands get longer as the diameter gets larger, the Starretts are all one length. Other than a slight bend in the smallest punch, there are no real marks or defects after a few years of use.
 

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winlinmac

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Here are the pictures, it doesn't state anywhere "Not for Impact Use" :confused:

Didn't see it posted yet....

Proper use of Pin punches dictates that you use a starter punch to get the pin moving, and then switch to the appropriately sized pin punch to actually drive the pin out. Starter punches are much more durable and tough (due to the thicker shank and reduced taper compared to a pin punch).

If you don't have a set of starter punches, get one. I use them more than all my other punches combined.
 

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winlinmac

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Thanks again, I'm embracing the lessons learned over the past couple of days :beer:
 
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