McKenzie drift boat trailer build

[koditten]

I took a few measurements off this trailer so I could build one for a customer.

Customer wanted 2 trailers, so they could leave one vehicle and trailer down stream from where thy launched.

Here is what I'm fashioning the second trailer after. I didn't want to copy the original trailer completly. I made a few changes as I was building it to be able to call it a custom build.

More to fallow.

KO

 

[koditten]

The main fram consists of the following. This is a light weight trailer, so all parts are costructed out of 14 gauge tubular steel.

1- 3"x3"x96" Tongue tube
2- 2"x3"x44" tube cut at 45* both ends. Tongue braces
2"x3"x60" frame front tube
1-2"x3"x70" frame end tube
2-2"x3"72" frame sides tube

Some random pieces that I had laying around the shop for fender braces and winch stand.

I first layed everything out on the floor to get a feel of things, you can see that the braces have not been 45'ed yet.

I measure diagonally to get the box part of the frame good and square and tack things together. I tack the tongue to the front of the front frame as well. I measure from the front of the tongue to the far frame ends to get my center point. In all honesty, you can eyeball this part and be more than close enough. I was off by 1/8" after measuring. I welded it right there.

 

[koditten]

After everything was good and trued up, I made some welds that would keep it from shifting out of true. I put it up on the fab table so I could complete the frame welding. Much easier doing this on the table vs. the floor.

 

[koditten]

Next, I need to fab up my axle. As I've said before, I quit buying custom length axles long ago. I just buy one size and fab the things to the lenght I need. This axle needed 5" removed to get the proper width. I actually remove 6". This is because I use a sleeve and it allows me flexability in the sleeve to create the arch that I like. Some people don't like the arch, but I like having the "toe in" on the tires to make the trailer track better on our "dished" roads. Its your call if needed or not.

I just use a piece of straight bar stock to allign the axle. I put a few pieces of scrap wood under the axle to get my arch.

Becasue there is no good place to get a quality ground, I just tack weld some scrap iron to the sleeve. I could clamp onto the spring, but that would make the ground pass thru the bearrings on the axle. I really don't want to put arc marks on a roller bearring. I just put tack welds on opposite sides of the axle tube to keep the tube from flexing. After I get it good and tacked up, I just weld everywhere I can reach. I'll do the bottom half after it is place on the trailer.

 

[koditten]

Here I have the axle back up on the trailer. the front spring hangers are 20" from the front of the trailer main frame. I don't even measure the position of the back hangers. I only care that the links have a bit of an angle to them. This allows the spring to flex.

If you look closely, you will see that the springs are a 2 leafe spring. The springs were origanally 1750 lbs. springs. This boat and trailer will never weigh more that 800 lbs. I took 2 of the leaves out to drop the capacity and to make the trailer ride better. It is hard to find 750 lbs springs in a 26" spring eye configuration. Most are 20" and they are much more rare. If the customer breaks a spring, he can go to any farm store and pick up a spring for $20, remove some leafes and be back on the road in an hour.

 

[koditten]

I flipped the trailer off the table and attached the tires. I forgot to meantion that attached the ball coupler while it was upside down on the table. No one wants to weld upside down. I attached the tongue wheel jack as well.

Once its sitting on the floor, I like to level the trailer. Easy to do with an adjustable jack. this makes it easier to get the fenders level when time comes.

 

[koditten]

I finished all the frame welds now that the trailer is ubside right. Now to move onto the fenders.

I use these preformed, aluminumn fenders on occasion. They look nice and are light and durable. easy to replace if they sustain any trauma as well. the only bad pard is they need quality brackets to keep them on the trailer. These are attached to some scrap angle iron that I had laying around. I drill 2 holes in the brackets, front and rear to bolt the fenders to.

I just stick a piece of 4x4 under the fender to get my fender height. These fenders needed to be spaced away from the frame a couple inches as well to keep from rubbing the sides of the drift boat. The level to get things straight.

After the angles were welded to the frame, I welded in the foot steps on the front and back of the braces. i fully expect this trailer to be making some trips down some unimproved roads. the foot steps will deftlect weeds or brush from contacting the fanders and hopefully prevent them from getting torn off

 

[koditten]

Anyone want to tell me why images I transfer from google to my computer come out small? The images that I email to my Yahoo account, then transfer to my computer come out just fine. What a pain.

KO

 

[koditten]

This is pretty much where I sit. Gonna be a couple days before I can get to it and finish it up.

Things that need completed:

Complete the winch stand/bow bump
Snake wiring
Cut out 6" ovals in the back frame piece for lights.
weld on 4 tie down points
Wash and paint
Fab up indoor/outdoor carpet padded cross pieces

 

[pawel.polaszek1]

Cool

 

[toofart]

Another quality installment. Thanks, nice work.

 

[littleponderosa]

koditten, i like your work. being a drift boat owner for about 6 years and always having to make the double run, i actually never thought it could be financially possible to have a 2nd. your build materials list doesn't look like it would break the bank - would you mind sharing so i can put a pinch on my metal guy?

my boat is smaller i'm guessing - i go just @ 14'6" from bow point to stern, anchor drop hangs out of course. guy behind the rower (me) cannot fly fish, just too small but room for a spinning rig if they choose.
custom fella out this way used to make a wooden arch that i could have incorporated onto my boat to allow the 3rd guy to fly fish, but he went to custom boats only and no longer just makes any parts - i question my wood skills, never have steamed/bent wood before.
used drift trailers out here usually run from $600 to $800, and always need some work. my boat was used of course, but came with a very nice trailer that can hold up to a 16' - 161/2' drift - had several fellas at the ramps wanna swap trailers and some cashola.

sometimes the sun shines on a dogs ***. that day was mine.
Bill

 

[koditten]

I'll get a price of all the parts as soon as I can. It's the weekend. Gonna unlax for a while.

KO

 

[koditten]

Finished up the trailer.

I had:
$150 in iron.
$400 in axle/fenders/tires
$140 in trailer hardware(light kit, Ball coupler, safety chain,spring hangers,bunk padding)

I had paint on hand and the customer supplied the winch.

I think it turned out pretty nice.

KO

 

[littleponderosa]

thanks for the update - i'll take the list to town next time i go and see what the metal guy has to say. more garage time is always a good thing.

Bill