So I ordered two kits of the so called McMaster-Carr "Heavy Duty Epoxy Coating". Well, much to my surprise it came and it is 100% solids coating made by "Dynamis" out of Venice, Florida. I ordered two kits and they came last night. While waiting for the coating to come I grinded it with my 1773AK and got it prepared. So when the coating came last night it was ready to go and I started. I have never had an experience before with 100% solids epoxy coating and boy this stuff is thick! I used two kits and had some left over. I mixed the first batch up and trimmed the edges and worked as quickly as I could. I rolled about half of the first square when I ran out. I opened the second kit and finished and had some left over. I let the left over try in the tray with the brush in it just so I could see how thick it would dry. I pulled a whole molding of the tray out this morning with the brush that was stuck in it. Check out the picture... I ordered one more kit as I want to do a second coat... I will get pics of the first coat but here is what I have for now. I will also scan the "Dynamis" instructions and put them up on here.
McMaster Carr Coating WRITE UP
- Thread starter XR80David
- Start date
Thank you sir!
jkeyser14
Well-known member
Can you get some pictures of the floor standing further back? It looks pretty good from what I can tell.
Hi, that is as far back as I can stand. When I took that picture I was right up against the door. I can take some with the door open though.
wildcat12
Active member
mcmaster Carr is a distributer not a manufacturer.... thin it down with a little denatured alcohol
And WHERE did I state that they WERE a manufacturer? I stated it was made by Dynamis. You must have not read right.
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You wont get any comments unless your post trashes online vendors products.
I posted results of my SherwinWilliams TileClad II flooring and got very few comments as well. ( http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11359 see? )
Your floor looks real nice. Wait until you sweep up your first mess (saw dust/etc)... You'll smile.
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thegarageguy
Well-known member
The reason you won't get much broo haha is because there is nothing special about a painted floor. Please don't take offense. Your pics, write up and instructions may serve many well but it has all been done before. You may not get much response but I'm sure you'll get many views.
Jaguar Fan
Well-known member
Cool! How many square feet is your garage? I'm not familiar with either the distributor or the manufacturer. How did you decide on them? If you don't mind, could you post some approximate costs?
It sounds like you are really happy with the gloss, even though there is no clear coat on it. Do you plan on a clear coat or something to protect it from UV light?
Thanks - and great job!
It sounds like you are really happy with the gloss, even though there is no clear coat on it. Do you plan on a clear coat or something to protect it from UV light?
Thanks - and great job!
Chris Adams
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I'm interested in the costs myself.
My floor hasn't set long enough (poured on the 7/2/09, and the building won't be finished till August) but as soon as possible I want to coat the floor.
I'm just not going to spend more than 60-80 cents a square foot so none of the high end stuff is for me.
How slick is your floor and did you add any friction modifer?
Thanks
My floor hasn't set long enough (poured on the 7/2/09, and the building won't be finished till August) but as soon as possible I want to coat the floor.
I'm just not going to spend more than 60-80 cents a square foot so none of the high end stuff is for me.
How slick is your floor and did you add any friction modifer?
Thanks
thegarageguy
Well-known member
WOW, sounds high tech!! I have been calling it texture or grit for years. I'm using friction modifier from now on. Maybe I can get more money for my floors with that.
Hi all,
this is the shop bay of my 4-car garage. It is right around 250sqft... The cost for a one gallon kit (PART A:3/4 CAN of color-----PART B:1/4 of hardener) was about 77.99. I bought two kits. I think it was a great deal considering Rustoleum kits are like $64.99, and theyr're water based and not 100% solids like this.
According to the instructions it meets food processing standards and hospital. I have to say though, it is all in the prep like everyone else has said and it goes down SO much better when it is prepped right. I grinded it with my 1773AK until it was very rough. I am very happy with it. Will post pics of the 2nd coat when I do it tonight.
I also decided I don't like the chips. It is more for the durability rather than the look of the floor. If you drop a screw of on a flaked floor, good luck finding it. On a plain floor, way easier to find. However, in the other 3 bays where the cars are parked the floor is flaked. I don't mind it in there with everyday traffic it hides a lot of stuff. I am sure most would agree that in a shop/work area it is best to NOT flake the floor. Any more questions feel free to ask. Thanks!
David
this is the shop bay of my 4-car garage. It is right around 250sqft... The cost for a one gallon kit (PART A:3/4 CAN of color-----PART B:1/4 of hardener) was about 77.99. I bought two kits. I think it was a great deal considering Rustoleum kits are like $64.99, and theyr're water based and not 100% solids like this.
According to the instructions it meets food processing standards and hospital. I have to say though, it is all in the prep like everyone else has said and it goes down SO much better when it is prepped right. I grinded it with my 1773AK until it was very rough. I am very happy with it. Will post pics of the 2nd coat when I do it tonight.
I also decided I don't like the chips. It is more for the durability rather than the look of the floor. If you drop a screw of on a flaked floor, good luck finding it. On a plain floor, way easier to find. However, in the other 3 bays where the cars are parked the floor is flaked. I don't mind it in there with everyday traffic it hides a lot of stuff. I am sure most would agree that in a shop/work area it is best to NOT flake the floor. Any more questions feel free to ask. Thanks!
David
How did I decide on McMaster? Well, i've ordered odds and ends from them for a while now and they are a great reliable company and anything I have ordered from them is quality stuff and have never had a problem with them nor their customer service. So, I figured what the heck, I doubt McMaster would sell a cheap unreliable coating. Well, I was right. This coating is very good stuff. I thought I had done my research before and seeked out all the companies and had never came across DYNAMIS before.
(Sorry I left this out on my previous post)
You have now peaked my interest. I like the 100% solids. We have an account with them and I can get everything for cost.
I am suprised that none of the critics have chimed in yet. I am curious if any of them have used Dynamis before with any good or bad results.
I am suprised that none of the critics have chimed in yet. I am curious if any of them have used Dynamis before with any good or bad results.
Jaguar Fan
Well-known member
Remember 30 years ago one of the ketchup manufacturers (Heinz, I think) had an advertising campaign where they were the "slow ketchup"? Where the inverted their bottle, and a competitors bottle, and it was a race to see who didn't come out of the bottle fast?
Much of it was about coefficient of friction of the glass that Heinz used.
AlphaGarage
Well-known member
Different formulations have varying pot lives, and environmental conditions will also affect the pot life.
If short pot life is a concern, and it often is, there are a few steps you can take to buy a bit more work time. What kind of steps? Dance steps...
Ever been with a bunch of people in a small room when someone cranks up the stereo and plays "Dancing Queen" by Abba? If you've been there you no doubt experienced a bit of shame that you're dancing to Abba, but that's not the point. The point is that you also experienced the room temperature shooting up to an unbearable 125f before the cooler heads put a bullet through the speakers.
The reason for that (the heat, not the bullet) is pretty obvious, all those bodies bumping and grinding in a closed environment generates a lot of heat.
Likewise when the resin and hardener are combined it triggers an chemical reaction that ultimately results in a hardened coating. During that process the mixture generates heat in an chemical exothermic reaction, and that heat accelerates the process, which generates more heat, which speeds things up even more, generating additional heat, and so on and so on...
But there are a few things you can do to slow down that reaction.
Keep the chemicals in a cool location and out of direct sun from beginning to end. As soon as the separate ingrediants are combined and stirred, get them out of the mixing container and onto the floor or into a wide rolling tray.
Mix smaller portions, and do any time intensive cut-in work first before moving on to the larger floor area.
Also, the temperature of the slab is more of an influence than is the air temperature, so try keep the door closed if that helps keep the sun off the slab, even if it may increase the air temp.
Of course these are general tips, check to your product's label or distributor for details and product specific instructions.
If short pot life is a concern, and it often is, there are a few steps you can take to buy a bit more work time. What kind of steps? Dance steps...
Ever been with a bunch of people in a small room when someone cranks up the stereo and plays "Dancing Queen" by Abba? If you've been there you no doubt experienced a bit of shame that you're dancing to Abba, but that's not the point. The point is that you also experienced the room temperature shooting up to an unbearable 125f before the cooler heads put a bullet through the speakers.
The reason for that (the heat, not the bullet) is pretty obvious, all those bodies bumping and grinding in a closed environment generates a lot of heat.
Likewise when the resin and hardener are combined it triggers an chemical reaction that ultimately results in a hardened coating. During that process the mixture generates heat in an chemical exothermic reaction, and that heat accelerates the process, which generates more heat, which speeds things up even more, generating additional heat, and so on and so on...
But there are a few things you can do to slow down that reaction.
Keep the chemicals in a cool location and out of direct sun from beginning to end. As soon as the separate ingrediants are combined and stirred, get them out of the mixing container and onto the floor or into a wide rolling tray.
Mix smaller portions, and do any time intensive cut-in work first before moving on to the larger floor area.
Also, the temperature of the slab is more of an influence than is the air temperature, so try keep the door closed if that helps keep the sun off the slab, even if it may increase the air temp.
Of course these are general tips, check to your product's label or distributor for details and product specific instructions.
I will do it later tonight as it is in the high 90s here tonight. I will probably do it at around 9pm actually. I will refrigerate the second kit until I use it. Is that ok?
AlphaGarage
Well-known member
That would work - but note that with our products you should avoid letting them get below 35f. Other coatings may have different limitations on storage and application temperatures.
I think it should hold up very well if you prepare it right and use the good stuff... I mean it's just a patio your not going to be abusing it. The only thing to worry about is the weather and U.V. which may fade it a bit over time but it is something which really shouldnt affect it and that also it is very slippery when wet, even a little wet.
Chris Adams
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- Oct 21, 2007
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The question still remains, did you put any 'grit' 'sand' or whatever they prefer I call it to make it less slippery?
I want a floor covering but can't deal with slippery.
Thanks
Chris
Hi Chris,
Sorry for not answering that question. No, I did not put any "sand" on the floor. I hate it like that. I like smooth and easy to clean. With the sand it is harder to clean from what i've heard. The only way you will deal with slippery is if some sort of liquid is on the floor. Personally, i've never had a bad experience with slipping and falling. You just need to be aware when it is wet.
David
It's the UV, I'm concerned about. I read the instructions for the pics posted and I don't see anything in there. I know I've read somewhere about UV inhibitors as an additive. I probably wont be using any sand either.
I currently have a classified ad for a kit of Wolverine Endurashield UV-blocking clearcoat to cover something like 200 square feet. this is the surplus I had after finishing my Wolverine floor a few weeks ago. I'll let it go cheap.
PM me if interested.
Is it 100% solids? Never been opened? Do you think it would suit my floor well as a clear coat over the EPO Coat H3H pictured?
Chris Adams
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- Oct 21, 2007
- Messages
- 2,117
Thanks, didn't mean to come over as pushy, but really wondered about the grit.
I walk with a cane, have two shot knees so slippery equals very bad for me.
When you commented on how slick your floor was I was concerned. It looks very much like the stuff you used would be my best price bet,since I need about 4 gallons. Plus, I would have to add some grit.
Thanks again
Chris
Chris no worries, you didn't come over as pushy at all. If I were in your position as have stated I would definitely go for the grit, running the risk of breaking a bone or injuring yourself further is far more important that how easy the floor will be to clean or how it looks... Get the grit.