MDF For DIY Cabinet Doors or ?

[Motorman55]

I want to make my own 'wood' doors to attach to these metal cabinets. I'd like to end up with a nice smooth painted finish on them as I intend to apply some large vintage style gas station decals.

I would like to end up with two 14"w doors and two 26"w doors on each cabinet. The doors would be 33" long to cover just the open shelving. The small doors in the center with the larger doors on the ouside. I would attach them with self closing kitchen cabinet type hinges.

I'd like them to remain straight and not bow. Would 3/4" MDF be the way to go? 1/2" Hardboard? or Sanded plywood?

 

[Shiftless]

I have made doors from solid wood board, plywood, and MDF. The ones from MDF are the only ones that are still perfectly straight and not warped to one degree or another.
When I painted the MDF, I first sanded, then primed, then sanded again and then applied one coat of paint. Light sanding after that and then the finish coat.
I think if you used shellac based primer first, you would need less sanding.

Anybody have enough experience with MDF to confirm my guess?

One caution though... You can’t use just any old hinge with MDF. It doesn’t hold screws as well as other materials.

 

[tarmy]

MDF is very stable and will likely not “move” if you properly seal/paint all the surfaces so that it cannot wick moisture. I have used various materials and the MDF has held up the best for straightness.

 

[rayra]

I've used melamine-coated particle board, stays flat, looks good, fluid resistant and easy cleanup. I use it for workbench tops as well.

It is heavy. But I'm using some inexpensive euro hinges on those doors for a couple years now with no issues.

 

[Shiftless]

I've used melamine-coated particle board, stays flat, looks good, fluid resistant and easy cleanup. I use it for workbench tops as well.

It is heavy. But I'm using some inexpensive euro hinges on those doors for a couple years now with no issues.

Me too.
I use it for shelving to display my collection of bench vises. The melamine holds up fine. Tough stuff! Easy clean up.

 

[karoc]

I made lot of door frames using Poplar, for panels 1/4 MDF. Problem using just MDF when you bump edges it will leave a booboo
But, you could glue on piece solid wood on all four edges. Say 1/4 thick

 

[mike93lx]

Mdf stays straight and flat, for sure. But it absorbs water like a sponge and the dust is absolutely terrible

 

[jar944]

Use MRMDF (moisture resistant mdf)

Something like Trupan, Medite or Medex.

I'm assuming you mean 33" tall doors and not 33" wide doors.

 

[jaw22w]

About 15 years ago, I took up doing stained glass projects. I built a rolling cabinet with a 4'x8' top for all the equipment and glass storage. It is built completely from 3/4" MDF. I made raised panel doors for the cabinet. It has been in my shop for over 15 years. My shop is not exactly what you would call "climate controlled" at all. Wood stove when it is cold, and open the doors when it is hot. That cabinet has withstood the test of 15 years in a basically automotive shop. Still straight. No warpage in the doors.
Of course, it has been primered and 2 coats of oil-based enamel applied to help with humidity absorption. The top was finished with several coats of polyurethane.

 

[jaw22w]

Ha! 2 pics! ???

 

[ycgoat]

I used 3/8" Pine PLywood for a tall cabinet more than 10 years ago, I never painted or sanded it and other than darkening a bit it still looks and works the same as the day I built it.

 

[karoc]

Jaw22w, how bout couple pics of your stain glass projects? Always wanted to give it try, but I have to many adventures as it is.

 

[Motorman55]

Use MRMDF (moisture resistant mdf)

Something like Trupan, Medite or Medex.

I'm assuming you mean 33" tall doors and not 33" wide doors.

Yes, they'll be 33" tall.

 

[Motorman55]

Mdf stays straight and flat, for sure. But it absorbs water like a sponge and the dust is absolutely terrible

I would be painting all the edges and both sides regardless of which type I use.

 

[Motorman55]

I used 3/8" Pine PLywood for a tall cabinet more than 10 years ago, I never painted or sanded it and other than darkening a bit it still looks and works the same as the day I built it.

l could go smooth pywood if i can get a decent snooth finish on it for the decals to stick to.

 

[Firebrick43]

Use MRMDF (moisture resistant mdf)

Something like Trupan, Medite or Medex.

I'm assuming you mean 33" tall doors and not 33" wide doors.

What do you think of MDO vs MDF?

 

[mike93lx]

I would be painting all the edges and both sides regardless of which type I use.

Getting a good finish on cut/machined mdf can be tough. Not impossible, though

 

[jaw22w]

Jaw22w, how bout couple pics of your stain glass projects? Always wanted to give it try, but I have to many adventures as it is.

I don't want to hi jack this thread, but I could start another show-off thread!

 

[Motorman55]

I have made doors from solid wood board, plywood, and MDF. The ones from MDF are the only ones that are still perfectly straight and not warped to one degree or another.
When I painted the MDF, I first sanded, then primed, then sanded again and then applied one coat of paint. Light sanding after that and then the finish coat.
I think if you used shellac based primer first, you would need less sanding.

Anybody have enough experience with MDF to confirm my guess?

One caution though... You can’t use just any old hinge with MDF. It doesn’t hold screws as well as other materials.

I would also be using a heavy duty Liquid Nails to attach in addition to screws.

 

[jar944]

What do you think of MDO vs MDF?

It should hold up better, but needs edgebanded, like any plywood

 

[niget2002]

I've made cabinets out of MDF. It holds up well, just heavy. 3/4" plywood is lighter compared to 3/4" MDF.

You can get good results with paint. I've used brushed on house paint and I've used spray paint. The wood soaks up paint, so use a good primer before your color.

 

[Firebrick43]

I seal my mdf with shellac first. It takes several coats but penetrates deep and drys very fast. Can put the second coat on as soon as you’re done with the first. Let dry overnight, lightly sand and put two more coats on.

Can be wiped on with a rag and is safe to use. Plus it seems to really densify the mdf.

 

[jar944]

I would also be using a heavy duty Liquid Nails to attach in addition to screws.

Just use standard 35mm cup/euro hinges

 

[72Anthony]

I've successfully used 5/8 MDF for cabinet doors. They were 36" high by 12" wide. Both sides were painted with basic interior latex paint from Home Depot and the edges had the iron on banding.

The 5/8" thickness allowed the use of European style hinges, which require a 1/2" deep hole in the door.

These were located in a houston garage with high humidity and a daily driver parked inside (dumping a bunch of extra heat into the space).

10+ years with no issues.

 

[manwithtools]

It should hold up better, but needs edgebanded, like any plywood

Edge banding only for appearance purposes. MDO is used for outside signs all the time with no edge banding.

 

[yhprum]

There is a YouTube channel called 10 minute workshop that has a bit of mdf door content you might find helpful. I think your primary issues would be weight, and sealing and painting. But not a big deal. You can get a very nice paint finish with good prep work.

 

[mike93lx]

There is a YouTube channel called 10 minute workshop that has a bit of mdf door content you might find helpful. I think your primary issues would be weight, and sealing and painting. But not a big deal. You can get a very nice paint finish with good prep work.

Pete Millard. He does a lot with a track saw and a small shop

 

[jar944]

Edge banding only for appearance purposes. MDO is used for outside signs all the time with no edge banding.

It's to keep the ply layers or any voids from telegraphing through the paint, so yes 100% for appearance only.

 

[jar944]

Pete Millard. He does a lot with a track saw and a small shop

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Also a small shop, but a lot higher end work than than Millard.

 

[aka Larry]

I used MDF for this small coat rack I just built.

I'm not a huge fan of wood grain or stain so I paint all my wood projects. I thought MDF would be the easy button after I watched a ton of videos of how to seal it (especially the edges) to get ready for paint. One guy swore that using sanding sealer would work and the paint would be like glass.

I suppose I could have done it wrong, but that did NOT work for me. I put two coats of sanding sealer (sanding in between) on the faces and edges. It felt relatively smooth, except the one routed edge on the top shelf, which still felt kind of rough.

I applied the first coat of paint (sprayed) and the faces looked "OK", but the edges soaked it up just like I had done no prep at all. By this point I was frustrated so I sanded it all again (did I mention I HATE sanding?) and applied spackling compound to all the edges. I had to sand all those edges AGAIN, and start the paint process all over again.

After two heavy coats of paint, it all turned out well, but it was kind a PITA since I thought using MDF would help me avoid paint issues. After the fact I was thinking "Why the hell didn't I just use edge banding?". I haven't tried it on MDF, but I assume it would work right? That would not have helped me with the routed edge though, and I like routed profiles.

Here's the final result.

 

[jar944]

I used MDF for this small coat rack I just built.

I'm not a huge fan of wood grain or stain so I paint all my wood projects. I thought MDF would be the easy button after I watched a ton of videos of how to seal it (especially the edges) to get ready for paint. One guy swore that using sanding sealer would work and the paint would be like glass.

I suppose I could have done it wrong, but that did NOT work for me. I put two coats of sanding sealer (sanding in between) on the faces and edges. It felt relatively smooth, except the one routed edge on the top shelf, which still felt kind of rough.

I applied the first coat of paint (sprayed) and the faces looked "OK", but the edges soaked it up just like I had done no prep at all. By this point I was frustrated so I sanded it all again (did I mention I HATE sanding?) and applied spackling compound to all the edges. I had to sand all those edges AGAIN, and start the paint process all over again.

After two heavy coats of paint, it all turned out well, but it was kind a PITA since I thought using MDF would help me avoid paint issues. After the fact I was thinking "Why the hell didn't I just use edge banding?". I haven't tried it on MDF, but I assume it would work right? That would not have helped me with the routed edge though, and I like routed profiles.

Here's the final result.

What sanding sealer? High build undercoater works for me.

 

[aka Larry]

What sanding sealer? High build undercoater works for me.

I can't remember for sure, but I think this was what I used. It was a milky white color in the can and almost as thin as water.

Pardon my ignorance, but what is "high build undercoater"?

Edit: I have used Kilz Latex Primer on other projects I've painted, but it was really thick and by the time I thinned it enough to spray, it probably lost it's properties to fill any voids.

 

[mike93lx]

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Also a small shop, but a lot higher end work than than Millard.

No Instagram for me. Super high end stuff is nice to look at, but I need more practical projects in my life.

 

[jar944]

I can't remember for sure, but I think this was what I used. It was a milky white color in the can and almost as thin as water.

Pardon my ignorance, but what is "high build undercoater"?

Thar sanding sealer isn't the right product for mdf.

Undercoater is what some paint manufacturers call their sealer/primer.

 

[Renegade1LI]

Something else you might want to consider is using Baltic birch plywood. Very stable, machines well and takes a good finish, you can also get it with a plastic like coating and in different colors. The down side is not cheap but great to build with. The 5/8 is usually 11 ply and 1/2 is 9 ply.

 

[jar944]

No Instagram for me. Super high end stuff is nice to look at, but I need more practical projects in my life.

I wouldn't call it super high end, but he isn't rolling on paint like Millard.

 

[aka Larry]

Thar sanding sealer isn't the right product for mdf.

Undercoater is what some paint manufacturers call their sealer/primer.

Thanks for the info!

I have another project I was planning to use MDF, but after the last fiasco, had about changed my mind. Can you school me on using this? Do I need to sand first? Sand after? Can I thin it if needed to spray it? How many coats?

 

[aka Larry]

Something else you might want to consider is using Baltic birch plywood. Very stable, machines well and takes a good finish, you can also get it with a plastic like coating and in different colors. The down side is not cheap but great to build with. The 5/8 is usually 11 ply and 1/2 is 9 ply.

I had a project that I "thought" I was using Baltic Birch. After two heavy coats of Kilz primer, I ended up with this finish:



Ended up having to coat the ENTIRE project with a thin coat of spackling compound to fill the voids seen here. The final product came out fine, but it was a ton of extra work (sanding) because of the "not baltic birch" I though I had purchased.

 

[jar944]

Thanks for the info!

I have another project I was planning to use MDF, but after the last fiasco, had about changed my mind. Can you school me on using this? Do I need to sand first? Sand after? Can I thin it if needed to spray it? How many coats?

On a sawn edge I'd sand first to get rid of any saw marks otherwise spray one to two coats and sand.

If you still have imperfections or you sanded back to the mdf hit it with another coat. If you're spraying solvent lacquer you can sand about 30 minutes after you spray.

You can do the same with BIN primer, it just doesn't build as quickly, dry as fast or sand as easily, but it's available at every home depot so..

 

[aka Larry]

You can do the same with BIN primer, it just doesn't build as quickly, dry as fast or sand as easily, but it's available at every home depot so..

BIN Primer is kind of like Kilz right? See my edit above. It was waaaaay too think to spray w/o thinning it to the point of having it be useful.