MDF for the first 4'

[brad d]

Would 1/2" MDF be a good option for the 1st 4 feet of a garage? Then drywall the rest of the way up (12' walls).

Or is it super price, soak up water like crazy ect? Im just about finished insulating and looking for options, OSB dont like the look of it painted, Plywood still not as smooth as i would like...


What do you guys think? I would only need 15 4x8 sheets

 

[<>Severed<>]

I wouldnt use it, I would use plywood or osb and run a skim coat of drywall mud over it to smooth it out then paint it if your worried about texture. Imo I dont think mdf is as strong for hanging stuff on.

 

[Stuey]

MDF is not the ideal material - it is dense, heavy, soaks up water and bulges like you wouldn't believe, and isn't ideal for supporting much hanging weight.

 

[dps]

You can get exterior rated mdf (called medex) that will work fine. I'm not sure about the nail holding (lack of) abilities; will you be mounting much stuff that low?

 

[mmg440]

Not sure But I would think MDF would be every bit as strong as the OSB. However for the best strength to hang and fasten things to and take everyday shop abuse it's hard to beat the plywood. MDF would most likely hold up much better then a drywall finsh and is a intersting idea.

 

[Junkman]

If it is an attached garage, you might run into some code violations using any wood product on the walls. In CT, all attached garages have to have 5/8" fire code sheet rock on all walls and ceiling..

 

[Stuart in MN]

If you can find it, MDO plywood would be a better choice. It's very water resistant and it used in many parts of the country for road signs. As mentioned, if the garage is attached to the house the connecting wall most likely needs to be fire resistant.

 

[Fuller]

If waterproofing is your 1st priority then you could consider Hardibacker 500 (1/2"). Use appropriate fasteners and an EISF plaster system for a wall that you could hose down if necessary.

I'm in the middle of just such an adventure - so far it's going good.

 

[cdent]

Along with some of the other problems, MDF will not like nails or screws along the edges. Unless it's free, I think drywall's cheaper to buy.

 

[ryno]

mdf will have as much holding power as plywood or osb. if your worried about it just hit a stud just as you would with drywall.

 

[Torque1st]

If you expect to get it wet often then the Hardibacker is the way to go. Hardibacker will not have the strength to hang items from it tho. Otherwise OSB works great and will take a little wet from splash occasionally especially if it is well sealed and covered with good paint. I dislike MDF in any area that will even get a hint of moisture, even the exterior rated ****. It sags badly over time and will not hold items also. MDF is little better than hanging paper or cardboard.

 

[kbs2244]

Check out these guys

www.teksupply.com

They carry panels used in dary barns that get washed down twice a day.

 

[Fuller]

Check out these guys

www.teksupply.com

They carry panels used in dary barns that get washed down twice a day.

And they're kick proof and chew proof! Great for temporary housing of small children.

 

[carguykeith]

I think it cost me a total of $250 to just OSB my 10' walls then drywall over that. It's WAY better for sound proofing, you can hang something anywhere and no worries about accidentally punching a hole in the wall.

I'm sure someone will tell you this is a bad idea but I just got my coil nailer and used it to attach the OSB. I did it all by myself in a day and can't pull a sheet off unless I really wanted to and had a pry bar...

I still screwed the rock up to keep the nail pops to a minimum but just couldn't beat the efficiency of the coil nailer for the wood-to-wood connection. Oh yeah and no need to worry if you miss with the nailer just shoot another one, and once you have the OSB on you can't miss when you hang the rock which makes it way faster. I would hold the sheet up and have my wife run a couple of screws with the Senco, then come back and put the rest of the screws in afterwards.

 

[Matt M PA]

In my attached garage, the original sheetrock was hammered...so I decided on a slightly different take.

(But to respond to your ?, I'd first but up some sheetrock...no need with my idea to finish it pretty)

Since my house is a split-level, our garage walls were less than 8'. I put slatwall from the ceiling down, and tileboard from the floor up.

The tileboard is glued in place..with moldings between the panels. You can even get tileboard that's made of fiberglass that has a nioce texture. I cheaped out and got the least expensive plain-ole white smooth board.

It has been a good idea. If I back the Viper in the garage...which I have to do...when it starts it blows water out the exhaust and onto the tileboard....which wipes off.

 

[brad d]

What about this MDO plywood? or HDO

http://www.canply.org/english/products/overlaidplywood.htm

 

[brad d]

HDO Plywood is manufactured with a thermosetting resin-impregnated fiber surface bonded to the outer plys under heat and pressure.

HDO Plywood provides a smooth, uniform surface which is resistant to abrasion, moisture penetration and deterioration from many common chemicals and solvents.

HDO Plywood is bonded with 100% waterproof glue and has inner ply construction of C or C plugged grade veneer. Face veneers are B grade or better.

 

[e-tek]

HDO Plywood is manufactured with a thermosetting resin-impregnated fiber surface bonded to the outer plys under heat and pressure.

HDO Plywood provides a smooth, uniform surface which is resistant to abrasion, moisture penetration and deterioration from many common chemicals and solvents.

HDO Plywood is bonded with 100% waterproof glue and has inner ply construction of C or C plugged grade veneer. Face veneers are B grade or better.

Duuuuhhh - what?

 

[brad d]

Copy and pasted that.. they use it for signs and concrete forms

 

[wayne]

I just finished my detached garage/shop. I used OSB for all interior walls and ceiling. Works perfectly. Shop is 24 x 28 with 12foot sidewalls, scissor trusses that give me a 13 ft. center clearance. Painted everything semi-gloss white. Then caulked seams with Brite-white caulking, looks great. The only thing I would do differently is to run a belt sander over all the edges and joints before painting and caulking. Note: OSB soaks up paint like a sponge, I used three coats of Barn Paint.
OSB is stronger than drywall and in my area about half the price (inside and outside I used about 130 sheets.

 

[Ezzie]

Another option that I am using is 1/4" "puckboard" (sometimes refered to as HPDE sheeting) glued over 3/8" plywood. It is waterproof and almost indestructible (the stuff they line hockey rinks with). My application is in a wash bay so it can be direct pressure washed.

Here is some more info on it.

http://www.systemhorse.com/pages/catalogue/barn_solutions/FRP - Puckboard.pdf

 

[Torque1st]

Another option that I am using is 1/4" "puckboard" (sometimes refered to as HPDE sheeting) glued over 3/8" plywood. It is waterproof and almost indestructible (the stuff they line hockey rinks with). My application is in a wash bay so it can be direct pressure washed.

Here is some more info on it.

http://www.systemhorse.com/pages/catalogue/barn_solutions/FRP - Puckboard.pdf

You had me wondering what HPDE was, it turned out to be HDPE. There are sources for ABS sheet in many colors and thicknesses called Kydex for the same applications. Kydex is real easy to form around corners but it can discolor slightly when bent.

Plastics and high resin products are oil products and have been expensive but with falling oile prices they may get more reasonable.