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MDF vs Hardboard for painted benchtop? And what paint?

Todd1803

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Nov 29, 2010
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Bonney Lake, WA
The bench in my garage is 2' wide by 20' long. It it topped with 3/4" plywood that it very oil stained and dark. It wasn't pretty when I moved in, and I haven't helped. I want to brighten it up some, and give it some oil and chemical resistance. My plan is to overlay it with either MDF or hardboard, and paint it with something light grey.

Any advantage for MDF or hardboard? I've heard MDF doesn't like latex products? I like the idea of using MDF because I can easily add 1/2 - 3/4" of thickness to the bench top, but haven't ruled out hardboard yet (because it's harder)

Any advice would be appreciated.

Oh, cost is a major consideration, and bench is a general purpose, little bit of everything workspace, and will be home to my drill press, belt sander, and vise. Haven't welded on it yet, but can't say I never will.
 
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Solpainter

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I used MDF and primed and painted with SW oil base. Bench has three layers of 5/8" MDF. Put three coats of enamel on it with a roller.
I used a light beige as I wanted good light reflectance and it matches my pegboard above the bench. I'm a paint guy so it has to look good. I went to HD and found in the carpet department clear vinyl floor runner that they sell by the foot. It is 30" wide an about 1/8 thick. Great work surface as it is tough and very easy to clean. After three years it looks great and it is used every day.
 
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Stuart in MN

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I like tempered hardboard. It's cheap and durable, easy to replace when it does get beat up, and looks decent even if you leave it unpainted.
 
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Todd1803

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Bonney Lake, WA

I was originally considering the Melamine panels, but in my web research, it seems to be well liked by the wood working crowd, but the fab / repair folks don't so much think it's tough enough.

The other reason is that I can easily touch up minor damage to a painted surface.

Slednut - that is a VERY nice work & storage space. Thanks for the bit of inspiration


Had a call from my dad and sought his advice, he recommended the hardboard, because it is smooth and easy to paint, is "tough as nails", and is inexpensive.
 
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Todd1803

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If building my own bench, I'd definitely look for some doors, but this was built by the previous owner of the house, and I'm not in a position to tear it out and start over. I can't add that thickness over the existing bench do to the location of the electrical outlets.
 

motoretro

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I've used a product which is 3/4" thick and is basically very consistent layered ply with a 1/16" hardboard top and bottom surfaces. Paints and varnishes very well and is much lighter than MDF and It doesn't swell either. I picked it up at a building salvage although it's a new product. This would make a great bench surface.
Motoretro
 
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MarkG

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I used an idea in a workbench article somewhere and it works great. Two layers of 3/4" plywood and a top work surface of 1/4" Masonite, which is hardboard as you mentioned (smooth side up!) all laminated together with wood glue, trimmed, edge-banded with 3/4" hardwood and soaked with several coats of Danish oil finish. Tough, smooth durable, won't hurt your edged tools.

BTW---welding and wood don't go together! Don't weld on a bench like that. I think you'd have a hard time collecting a claim for the resulting fire :S
 
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Showkey

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BTW---welding and wood don't go together! Don't weld on a bench like that. I think you'd have a hard time collecting a claim for the resulting fire :S


Not sure where these theories come from.......BUT........Your insured for being STUPID and doing STUPID stuff like refueling the lawn mower while it running, painting next to the water heater, using gasoline to clean the floor, running the generator in the garage next to the wall cutting metal on the wood saw, storing oil / varnish rags......etc

Just don't burn the garage down on purpose ( arson ) or lie ( fraud) about what you doing.

Back to bench tops.........solid hardwood lasts a life time, renewable oil finish and sheet metal cover for the real rough stuff.
Leave the welding to the welding table.......
 
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vintage nut

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Used plywood, and mdf before. My absolute favorite is solid rock maple, like a proper woodworking bench. Last forever.

Other stuff that might be worth looking at is the heavy black laminate stuff they cover lab benches with. Waterproof, heatproof, chemical proof, and basically indestructible.
Personally I hate mdf, but that's more from working with it than anything

you can never have too many tools
 

gungatim

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I used an idea in a workbench article somewhere and it works great. Two layers of 3/4" plywood and a top work surface of 1/4" Masonite, which is hardboard as you mentioned (smooth side up!) all laminated together with wood glue, trimmed, edge-banded with 3/4" hardwood and soaked with several coats of Danish oil finish. Tough, smooth durable, won't hurt your edged tools.

BTW---welding and wood don't go together! Don't weld on a bench like that. I think you'd have a hard time collecting a claim for the resulting fire :S

this is pretty much how I built my woodshop and workshop benches, except I don't glue the masonite down (and I use 1/8"). when it gets nasty, you take it up toss it away and drop down a new piece.

I weld on mine occasionally as there is a vise there. oil and chemicals soak into the masonite and will ignite with sparks as will pink shop towels. I enjoy the challenge of putting the fire out, but most folks probably won't want to weld anywhere near a bench like this for that reason.
 

Falcon67

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Merkel, TX
3/4 ply over 7/16 OSB topped with 1/8 hard board. Paint is a gray floor and porch paint from HD. When it gets crummy, a good wipe with lacquer thinner plus a buff with emory cloth and roll on another coat. The hardboard is held down by drops of RTV so it's replaceable.

Bench10.jpg


I have a steel table and a protable welding table for that use. But in the old shop my "welding table" was a piece of particle board/melamine counter top. Never had any issues using MIG. I also welded on the painted top 3/4 ply bench, no problems there either other than the expected burn marks.
 
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Todd1803

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Bonney Lake, WA
3/4 ply over 7/16 OSB topped with 1/8 hard board. Paint is a gray floor and porch paint from HD. When it gets crummy, a good wipe with lacquer thinner plus a buff with emory cloth and roll on another coat. The hardboard is held down by drops of RTV so it's replaceable.

Bench10.jpg


.

Thank you for the picture, I like that look, this is the direction I'm leaning right now.
Is that paint oil based, or a latex, of did the hardboard require any primer or special prep?



For those with melamine, did you use the bonded MDF (local store has 3/4" sheets) or the thinner fiberboard style sheets?
 

A_Pmech

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Use a sheet of 1/4" polyethylene. It's soft, easy to clean and white.
 
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