Measuring out for a lift

[QWIKWHIP]

Hi all, new to the forum. I'm in the process of finishing the interior of my detached garage to make it one heck of a man cave. It's a 24x40 stick framed barn with 14' ceilings and a single 12x12 door. I just purchased a nice used lift and am looking for some after the install advice from those that are happy with their install and those that wish they did something different. Mostly I'm looking for how you mounted the lift to maximize the space available. The lift manufacture specs seem very generous in clearances. I'm thinking of hugging the wall 6" more than the recommended. Will I regret this? Thanks in advance for any input. Pictures would be greatly appreciated as well.

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[cj7jeep81]

I'd say it depends on what type of vehicles you are working on. If its only small cars, you can probably get away with it. But if full size vehicles, you're going to want more. I think worst case scenario would be pulling axle shafts, so you'd need a few feet clearance beyond the width of the car/truck. Also, keep in mind that 24x40 is the outside dimensions, and you'll probably be more like 23x39 on the inside.

 

[Kaizen]

I designed my stem wall to have three feet from the right side of my door. Also places the post three feet off wall. If it’s against the wall you have to walk all the way around the car. Not all repairs will have the car up in the air. So I kept that walk around path open


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[QWIKWHIP]

The manufacturer spec says 2'. I'm thinking about 18". That would still give me 3' or more from where an axle would be. That 6"closer keeps the other post centered in the garage and gives me more space to have something next to it (a boat or another car) and still be able to work around the car on the lift. That's my thought process anyway. lol

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[Dneel81]

axle shafts on my GM 14bolt are 38 long.
Need some space to get them out without galling the splines or whatnot.

 

[m3bs]

My baseplate is 24” out, so the column is about 27”. Don’t think I’d want it any closer, given how many times I pass through there.

 

[slim39]

The manufactuer has sold and probably installed many lifts and I would value there opinion

 

[Stuart in MN]

Two post or four post lift? A two post lift may have some restrictions on how close to the edge of the floor slab it can be installed.

 

[QWIKWHIP]

Two post or four post lift? A two post lift may have some restrictions on how close to the edge of the floor slab it can be installed.

It's a 2 post. The instructions state that any anchor is not to be mounted within 8" of any crack, edge or expansion joint. They also spec the column to be 24" from any wall or bench. I was thinking of going 18". If I go the 24", it makes my other column less than the required 8" from an expansion joint.

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[pattenp]

I think you're okay doing the 18". Just try to maintain the 8" or more from concrete joints. Do what works for you.

 

[Shadowdog500]

The other thing you need to worry about is having enough room in front of the car to work and use a cherry picker. From what I remember the recommendation was to have the posts 11 feet from the rear wall. I upped mine to 17 feet since my shop is 52’ deep and have plenty of room to work even with a palate rack against the back wall.

 

[Shadowdog500]

There was another helpful thread that I can’t find on lift lighting that I used when I put my lift in about 8 years ago. When hanging the ceiling light place them so the open hood does not cast a shadow into the engine bay. It makes a world of difference. The other thing I did was to hang a commercial ceiling fan near the front of the car. It helps when working on a car on a hot day.

Chris

 

[QWIKWHIP]

The other thing you need to worry about is having enough room in front of the car to work and use a cherry picker. From what I remember the recommendation was to have the posts 11 feet from the rear wall. I upped mine to 17 feet since my shop is 52’ deep and have plenty of room to work even with a palate rack against the back wall.

I'm going with 15' for that very reason. My garage is only 40' with a single centered door though, so I don't want it too far back.

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[QWIKWHIP]

There was another helpful thread that I can’t find on lift lighting that I used when I put my lift in about 8 years ago. When hanging the ceiling light place them so the open hood does not cast a shadow into the engine bay. It makes a world of difference. The other thing I did was to hang a commercial ceiling fan near the front of the car. It helps when working on a car on a hot day.

Chris

I'm in the HVAC bizz, so I'll have a/c. [emoji6] Lighting will be the next task. Haven't even thought much about that part yet.

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[firebirdparts]

Lay it out to fit the door and squeeze the wall all you want. It’ll be fine.

Having a lift is really fabulous and you need to facilitate getting the most out of it all the time. If you make it so tight you can’t walk around the wall side post, that would be a big decision, but if the garage was 20 feet wide it would still be the right decision.

Space is great but if you don’t have it, that is even greater reason to avoid fouling up the whole building as if you were buying the lift to work 3 feet away from the car every day. You’ll never really need that.

 

[QWIKWHIP]

Lay it out to fit the door and squeeze the wall all you want. It’ll be fine.

Having a lift is really fabulous and you need to facilitate getting the most out of it all the time. If you make it so tight you can’t walk around the wall side post, that would be a big decision, but if the garage was 20 feet wide it would still be the right decision.

Space is great but if you don’t have it, that is even greater reason to avoid fouling up the whole building as if you were buying the lift to work 3 feet away from the car every day. You’ll never really need that.

That's exactly my thought process, maximizing the use of the whole building, but not screwing myself with the lift. I'm thinking 18" from the column to the wall, more than enough to comfortably walk around it.

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[Scud67]

Mine is 18" off the wall and I have had no issues working on anything. Pulling axles is fine - the vehicle is centered on the lift, not right up against the post, so there is plenty of room.

 

[QWIKWHIP]

Mine is 18" off the wall and I have had no issues working on anything. Pulling axles is fine - the vehicle is centered on the lift, not right up against the post, so there is plenty of room.

Nice. That's the reassurance I wanted. lol

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[mmb617]

Mine is 18" off the wall and I have had no issues working on anything. Pulling axles is fine - the vehicle is centered on the lift, not right up against the post, so there is plenty of room.

While this is true as the outside of my column is 26" from the wall yet I have 5' to the wall with my Yukon on the lift, I don't think I'd want less space than I have to walk through and carry things through that space when the vehicle is not in the air.

I'm sure 18" works if that's the only option but the extra 6" sure makes things easier. I often wish I had a little more space there.

 

[QWIKWHIP]

While this is true as the outside of my column is 26" from the wall yet I have 5' to the wall with my Yukon on the lift, I don't think I'd want less space than I have to walk through and carry things through that space when the vehicle is not in the air.



I'm sure 18" works if that's the only option but the extra 6" sure makes things easier. I often wish I had a little more space there.

I wouldn't say so much that it's my "only" option, but the extra 6" is going to be far more valuable to me on the other side. I wish the garage was 30' wide, but I'm working with what I've got. lol

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[Falcon67]

This is a 24x40, lift plate is 24" off the left (as viewed) wall. No issues with axles, etc. Plenty of space to work. It's positioned slightly forward of the shop center line.

Take some OSB and cut it the same size as the floor plates. Position the OSB on the floor, set some traffic cones or 12x12 "columns" made from cardboard on the squares and have a walk about. You'll see how it works in the space easily.

 

[59 wagon man]

i have a 4 post lift and did a simple oil change and tire rotation. Now I don't know how big or small you are body wise but my shoulders measure about 21" inches and the tires were about 10" wide so 18" is a little tight . in my opinion

 

[QWIKWHIP]

This is a 24x40, lift plate is 24" off the left (as viewed) wall. No issues with axles, etc. Plenty of space to work. It's positioned slightly forward of the shop center line.

Take some OSB and cut it the same size as the floor plates. Position the OSB on the floor, set some traffic cones or 12x12 "columns" made from cardboard on the squares and have a walk about. You'll see how it works in the space easily.

That's a nice set up. I'm putting mine a little towards the back. This way I can still get a longer trailer off to the right side without having to move something off the lift.

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[QWIKWHIP]

i have a 4 post lift and did a simple oil change and tire rotation. Now I don't know how big or small you are body wise but my shoulders measure about 21" inches and the tires were about 10" wide so 18" is a little tight . in my opinion

I would think a 4 post lift would definitely need more clearance though.

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[Falcon67]

That's a nice set up. I'm putting mine a little towards the back. This way I can still get a longer trailer off to the right side without having to move something off the lift.

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If you are placing in the 24' depth: Be aware that most vehicles "balance" on a 2 post around the steering wheel. I usually start with the wheel about even with the front of the post (backing in). That leaves way more of the vehicle sticking out the back. If you pull head in, some offset may be doable. But on mine I can not lift our 20' long F350 because it can't land in the lift space well enough to balance.

Look at what you want to lift and then get out the blue painters tape and a Sharpie, start doing layouts on the floor and moving your OSB squares around and see what works. The sharpie marks are still on my floor LOL.

 

[QWIKWHIP]

If you are placing in the 24' depth: Be aware that most vehicles "balance" on a 2 post around the steering wheel. I usually start with the wheel about even with the front of the post (backing in). That leaves way more of the vehicle sticking out the back. If you pull head in, some offset may be doable. But on mine I can not lift our 20' long F350 because it can't land in the lift space well enough to balance.

Look at what you want to lift and then get out the blue painters tape and a Sharpie, start doing layouts on the floor and moving your OSB squares around and see what works. The sharpie marks are still on my floor LOL.

It's 24 wide 40 deep, so I've got plenty of room. I'm putting the columns 15' from the back wall. The manufacturer specs 12'.

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[59 wagon man]

not working along the car as the post are at the ends of the car

 

[1redTA]

one member here posted a picture of their two post mounted so the hood/trunk of the car faces the back corner of their shop, looked like a great idea if your building layout allows it

 

[Shadowdog500]

If you put it right against the wall you will loose all of the wall space for cabinets and equipment. I have mine out enough so I can have a workbench and other things against the wall and still work.








When I had it installed the installer who is the Mohawk dealer for my area told me to put the controls and reservoir on the wall side to protect it. I wanted it on the other side and he said he has seen people hit it with vehicles when backing in the other bay and that a replacement isn’t cheap.

 

[Falcon67]

It's 24 wide 40 deep, so I've got plenty of room. I'm putting the columns 15' from the back wall. The manufacturer specs 12'.

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Much easier placement decisions there.

 

[GRivera]

If you put it right against the wall you will loose all of the wall space for cabinets and equipment. I have mine out enough so I can have a workbench and other things against the wall and still work.








When I had it installed the installer who is the Mohawk dealer for my area told me to put the controls and reservoir on the wall side to protect it. I wanted it on the other side and he said he has seen people hit it with vehicles when backing in the other bay and that a replacement isn’t cheap.

I’m trying to decide whether to put a 2 post deep inside the garage or at the entrance. Have you had any issues or regrets putting yours well inside the lift versus by the garage door? One concern with the deep inside placement is losing the space needed to drive to the lift as I’d have to keep it clear all the time. My garage is a 30x40x12 pole barn with 8x18’ garage door on 30’ gable end.

 

[QWIKWHIP]

I’m trying to decide whether to put a 2 post deep inside the garage or at the entrance. Have you had any issues or regrets putting yours well inside the lift versus by the garage door? One concern with the deep inside placement is losing the space needed to drive to the lift as I’d have to keep it clear all the time. My garage is a 30x40x12 pole barn with 8x18’ garage door on 30’ gable end.

I made the decision to go deep into the garage because I feel it'll be easier to keep the front clear. If I have something on the lift it may be there for a while. Then I'd block off the whole use of the garage while it's in there. So I'll store vehicles in front of the lift that would be moveable. But that's what I feel will work for me. Everyone's needs are different.

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[Shadowdog500]

I’m trying to decide whether to put a 2 post deep inside the garage or at the entrance. Have you had any issues or regrets putting yours well inside the lift versus by the garage door? One concern with the deep inside placement is losing the space needed to drive to the lift as I’d have to keep it clear all the time. My garage is a 30x40x12 pole barn with 8x18’ garage door on 30’ gable end.

I haven’t had any problem with putting it deep. It actually forces me to keep my shop more clutter free. Clutter is a constant problem in any shop. If I put the lift near the front it may block me from getting vehicles in and out when I have one up on the lift waiting for parts.

A friend built a similar sized shop and had enough room to put a second garage door on the side at the far end. This way he has one bay at the end with a lift and it’s own entrance. If you have the room to do that it would be even better.

The other thing I just thought about was that I bought four of the HF pump up car dollies to maneuver my Willy’s Jeep in and out of the front corner of the shop easily. When I pull the Willy’s out I lift it up and push it sideways about 15’ to the door. During snowstorms I also rotate it 180° so the plow faces outside. If you get a set of these pump up dollies vehicles can be lifted and moved out of the way, and I find it useful for getting some small cars like the Jeep properly placed on the lift so the fully retracted lift arms can hit all of the right points on the frame.

 

[lakeroadster]

Hi all, new to the forum. I'm in the process of finishing the interior of my detached garage to make it one heck of a man cave. It's a 24x40 stick framed barn with 14' ceilings and a single 12x12 door. I just purchased a nice used lift and am looking for some after the install advice from those that are happy with their install and those that wish they did something different. Mostly I'm looking for how you mounted the lift to maximize the space available. The lift manufacture specs seem very generous in clearances. I'm thinking of hugging the wall 6" more than the recommended. Will I regret this? Thanks in advance for any input. Pictures would be greatly appreciated as well.

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I have a Rotary SPOA10 2post lift. At my last shop the bay where I put the lift, the walls were 14 ft apart and the left post was only about a foot from the wall.

Ideal, not at all. But it was still workable.

In my new barn, the walls are 19 ft apart and the lift is centered side to side. So much better.