I have put a down payment on a 30x40 metal building and currently waiting to finish site prep, I've read and learned alot on this site. I would really like 4ft on center post and vertical siding, my budget may not allow me to do both so I'm curious from you guys that have built these buildings. Which would you rather have?
Meatal building questions
- Thread starter blastan21
- Start date
racecougar
Well-known member
I'll venture a guess that we're talking about a tubular steel, carport-style building here. If you elect to run the siding panels horizontally, are you at least able to get the roof panels oriented "vertically"?
rzims
Well-known member
I was told by friends to make sure I got vertical siding but didn't want the extra cost. I have horizontal siding and don't mind it at all. Our posts are 30" o.c. due to snow load requirements which meant I had to run horizontal boards in the inside to attach my plywood walls.
Not sure if this is any help in your decisions, but just thought I'd share
Not sure if this is any help in your decisions, but just thought I'd share
joe_padavano
Well-known member
Define "metal building". From your question it sounds like you are getting a wood frame building with metal siding. The post spacing depends on the trusses you have selected for your location's snow load. I've put up several post buildings, typically using 8 ft post spacing with trusses on 4 ft centers. This requires proper sizing of beams at the top of the posts to carry the truss loads. I'm currently putting up a 40 x 80 post building using PermaColumn concrete base posts and 40 ft clear span metal trusses. The trusses are designed for 10 ft on center, so I have the posts at 10 ft.
Mike65
Well-known member
I have a 24'x25' metal garage/shop & the metal beams are 5' on center which is fine for me since I was not going to finish the interior, we just had it insulated with spray foan & then painted it white. It also has horizontal exterior siding.
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jack stand
Well-known member
If it is a tubing "carport" style construction, there are no continuous horizontal "parts" that equal a purlin or wall girt as there are with a (wood) "pole building". These missing "parts" are what's required to orient the panels vertically, the way they are intended to be installed. (afak)
Expect an extra charge for materials and labor if they'll do it at all.
Expect an extra charge for materials and labor if they'll do it at all.
Yes I'm talking about the tubular metal building. And yes the roof is vertical
My post will be 5 ft on center if i dont opt for the 4ft centers. In west Tennessee we don't get much snow.
Square tubing carport metal building. With my snow load I'll have 5ft on center post. I can choose 4ft on center if I wish but it's extra so I'm trying to decide if I want to pay the extra money for the 4ft on center or pY extra to have vertical siding
I understand that. I'm looking for first hand experience which would be the best to spend the extra money on.
racecougar
Well-known member
The vertical orientation doesn't hold dust, mildew, etc. like the horizontal orientation, and requires girts or at least hat channel for attachment which can provide some additional strength to the building. It isn't necessarily a huge factor, but there is some logic to requesting the vertical orientation.
Closer framing member spacing increases strength of the building and reduces waste when sheeting the interior, as most items are bought in lengths that are multiples of 4'.
That is the questions im asking. Seems to me it would make it easier to insulate if your using foam board.
And I'm thinking of going with foam board insulation, 4 ft on centers would make things easier for sure
rzims
Well-known member
One other thing I didn't realize,(thankfully the salesperson pointed it out) was that unless you specify colored screws, you get stainless. I didn't want a bunch of silver dots all over my building
racecougar
Well-known member
Man, they'll cut every single corner they can, won't they?
Who will?
Yea I've got color matched screws
racecougar
Well-known member
The companies that throw up the carport-style buildings.
Oh yes they will. That's why I'm trying to get first hand knowledge
dante2
Well-known member
My posts are 5' and horizontal siding to match the house. The foam insulation wasn't hard to deal with at 5' on center. We rented a scissor lift for the weekend and finished up a 24x35 in a few days. We used a hot knife and a straight edge to cut the foam. Tried a knife and a saw but just made a mess.
What thickness foam board did you go with?
Mike65
Well-known member
We did not go with the color matched screws & it is not as noticeable as you think. The siding on our garage/shop is barn red with silver screws & unless you are within 10' you cannot really notice them. It doesn't bother us.
dante2
Well-known member
racecougar
Well-known member
They're pretty noticeable in post #5 above. I'm just blown away that the companies throwing these buildings up go that far in cost cutting.
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Joe_Lee
Active member
Great question and I am trying to decide on the same right now on a 24'x35'x12'. I am in the south so I don't have to worry about snow but we do have hurricanes. Although all of the buildings they offer meet the wind rating, I'm considering going to 4' centers or vertical sides (or both) for the increased strength, although it doesn't seem to be a huge gain. I am considering a pole barn as well but termites are terrible here and the climate is very conducive to rot.
Let us know what you choose.
Let us know what you choose.
Isn't that a lot of waste?
dante2
Well-known member
Not at all. I piece cut at 1' lengthwise 3x filled 4 spaces when added to a 4' piece. Hope that makes sense.
My building is getting finished up as we speak. I opted for the vertical siding. My reasons for opting for it were;
1- I just prefer the look
2- It seems to me the rain water will just wash down instead of sitting in the seams. I don't think this will affect anything structurally in the long run, but I feel like dirt may gather at the horizontal seems.
3- I believe it will be a little more sturdy due to the extra rows of horizontal framing.
4- I also like the interior look of the grid vs channel look and with the horizontal runs, I can now attach emt conduit to them to do horizontal runs instead of all the bends to go inside the channels (I don't want to drill through the tube steel).
On a side note. I opted for the double bubble vapor barrier. A metal building will sweat and "rain on you" from what I understand. And given the nature of condensation, I believe that is absolutely true. You can add it later if it would be more budget friendly.
Enjoy your building! I know how exciting it is.
Todd
edit: I didn't realize you were getting foam board. Disregard what I said about double bubble vapor barrier.
1- I just prefer the look
2- It seems to me the rain water will just wash down instead of sitting in the seams. I don't think this will affect anything structurally in the long run, but I feel like dirt may gather at the horizontal seems.
3- I believe it will be a little more sturdy due to the extra rows of horizontal framing.
4- I also like the interior look of the grid vs channel look and with the horizontal runs, I can now attach emt conduit to them to do horizontal runs instead of all the bends to go inside the channels (I don't want to drill through the tube steel).
On a side note. I opted for the double bubble vapor barrier. A metal building will sweat and "rain on you" from what I understand. And given the nature of condensation, I believe that is absolutely true. You can add it later if it would be more budget friendly.
Enjoy your building! I know how exciting it is.
Todd
edit: I didn't realize you were getting foam board. Disregard what I said about double bubble vapor barrier.
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Can you tell a big difference? Did you do 2" in roof and sides?
I'm from west Tennessee, we don't get much snow or hurricanes.. I was between a pole barn and metal building, but like you termites are bad in my area and also my property is on nothing but limestone rock and so much ground water where I am putting my building so I chose a slab and metal building.. I will probaly attach 1x4s horizontal to the girls to attach whatever I'm going to skin the walls with, haven't decided that yet.
I've heard alot of bad reviews on double bubble and it made me start looking into foam board, I haven't really seen much negative on it either. The company putting my building up wanted almost 5 grand to install double bubble on roof and sides and I thought that was ridiculous.
The double bubble has its place and use. It is more of a vapor barrier than insulation. It is expensive. I paid 4k for walls and roof on a 30x50. I priced the material up and it would have cost me 1800.00 to buy myself and install. I have too much going on and I knew if I didn't get it done, I'd never get to it. Speaking of which. I bought sealer for my concrete so I can seal the floor before I move all my stuff in. Otherwise, that also would never get done.
Attachments
Who did you buy your building from? It looks like you didn't pour your slab with a lip around it? Did you have any trouble with your slab when they installed the red heads (wedge anchors) through the tube into the slab? As I said above I'm probaly going to install 1x4 runners between legs every 2 ft and attach what ever I decide to skin my walls with, either plywood or some rough cut saw mill lumber, so they would take place of the horizontal girts used to run siding vertical
dante2
Well-known member
Yes 2" all the way around. We had a cold spell last week and it stayed about 10 degrees warmer than the outside air. I have a mini split but it stayed in dry mode. Not trying to heat it up at really low temps.
Joe_Lee
Active member
What wall (eave) height are you going with?
I have gas heat so I will probaly have a gas wall heater but I doubt I try to cool it.
30x40x12
Volcom
Member
I just had one built. 30'x60'x 14' tall. I saved $5K and went horizontal siding. Used that $ for a 2 post lift instead. Vertical siding looks way better and makes the building stronger because of the additional purlins. Mine is double legged so instead of just 2.5"x2.5" square tubing, mine is 2.5"x5". Makes more room for insulation when I get to that stage. I get water under the siding and bottom tubes when the rain is blowing sideways. I've been trying to seal it with silicone. I'm not sure how I'm going to insulate mine yet. Or how I'm going to finish the inside.