CGarage
Well-known member
That is really unprofessional.
It wastes time and screws the customer.
Not cool.
I have had vehicles returned with missing fasteners and I never went back due to the apparent lack of attention to detail.
Mechanics: Tips and tricks you've learned
- Thread starter guitarbutt
- Start date
That is really unprofessional.
It wastes time and screws the customer.
Not cool.
I have had vehicles returned with missing fasteners and I never went back due to the apparent lack of attention to detail.
engineer2
Well-known member
To remove a steering wheel without a puller.
Loosen the nut or bolt a turn or two. Grab the steering wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock. Pull straight back and rock it from side-to side. It will pop right off the press fit.
If you loosened the nut or bolt too much you may find yourself with missing teeth.
Loosen the nut or bolt a turn or two. Grab the steering wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock. Pull straight back and rock it from side-to side. It will pop right off the press fit.
If you loosened the nut or bolt too much you may find yourself with missing teeth.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Don't bet on that always. Works well when they're not press fit to pop it off the splines though.
engineer2
Well-known member
All the ones I've removed are press fit and they still come off. GM, Mopar, Honda, Mercedes. Are some makes might different? Wouldn't be surprised.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Toyota for one will just wiggle off, most brands will in general. I've seen a few GMs, like 20yo CTS shitboxes, where you need a special puller because the steering wheels aren't threaded. No room to really tap them anywhere either.
Looks like that.
My point was, don't go scheduling a waiter at 4pm if you don't have a backup plan for getting the steering wheel off. Ya know, like I did.
nadogail
Well-known member
I am glad i found this thread.
Me, too. I've been a "MacGuyer" for years, but still learn stuff from forums like this. There be so smart folks out there!
captain14
Well-known member
Saved for future reading tonight
bwringer
Well-known member
Another one: again, home gamer here, but applicable to anyone trying to fix anything.
Get them to make the noise.
If the complaint includes a noise, get in front of the customer or your niece or whoever it is and ask them to give their best imitation of the noise.
If they're shy, produce some random sample noises for encouragement. Give it some gusto. "Was it sort of a WUBBAWUBBAWUBBAWUBBA, or more of a YARKthppbtYARKthppbtYARKthppbt? Maybe a hoobaTHUMPsqueak?"
You can get some absolutely fantastic information this way to help with your diagnosis. Watch body language, too -- they might also indicate nonverbally that the car was lurching in left-hand turns under acceleration when none of this was in the original complaint of "funny noise".
Besides that, it's fun, gets the customer/spouse/relative involved, and even eases tension a bit. So even if making the noise turns out to be not much help, it can at least be damn entertaining.
I really feel bad for dealer techs who have an idiot service writer between them and the customer.
Get them to make the noise.
If the complaint includes a noise, get in front of the customer or your niece or whoever it is and ask them to give their best imitation of the noise.
If they're shy, produce some random sample noises for encouragement. Give it some gusto. "Was it sort of a WUBBAWUBBAWUBBAWUBBA, or more of a YARKthppbtYARKthppbtYARKthppbt? Maybe a hoobaTHUMPsqueak?"
You can get some absolutely fantastic information this way to help with your diagnosis. Watch body language, too -- they might also indicate nonverbally that the car was lurching in left-hand turns under acceleration when none of this was in the original complaint of "funny noise".
Besides that, it's fun, gets the customer/spouse/relative involved, and even eases tension a bit. So even if making the noise turns out to be not much help, it can at least be damn entertaining.
I really feel bad for dealer techs who have an idiot service writer between them and the customer.
demarpaint
Well-known member
I just did a clutch job to my old E-150 that has an M5OD transmission found in older F series pick ups and Rangers. Bleeding a new slave cylinder can be a real PITA. The trick was to have the vehicle in a position where the clutch master cylinder is in a perfect vertical position, and tap it lightly with a small rubber mallet to let trapped air escape to the clutch reservoir. If the clutch master cylinder is not perfectly straight up and down it will trap air. What a time saver!
wafrederick
Well-known member
If you don't have magnetic sockets,put a dab of grease in the socket.Also if there is something in the way of a fastner,remove the part.Double and triple check your work too, one example is you may have forgotten remove or tighten a bolt.
Years ago when I worked in an insurance salvage yard I used it do this regularly, I could key a GM in 15 minutes.
CGarage
Well-known member
Can you explain this one in a better way?
wafrederick
Well-known member
If a part such as a bracket is in the way for access to a nut or bolt,don't fight getting to that nut or bolt with the bracket in the way
Wiz02
Well-known member
Probably back in the previous 12 pages of posts, but don't touch your other vehicle to do even the smallest of repairs when you are working on your other vehicle.
bwringer
Well-known member
Yup, this is part of an essential basic rule for us home gamers: never leave yourself without transportation.
Even if it's something very simple like a tire rotation or oil change, I'll make sure another car is available, or I'll push one of my motorcycles out of the garage before blocking the drive with a car I'm working on.
I once had to destroy an oil filter to remove it (first oil change on my wife's car after purchase), then discovered I didn't have the correct filter (my fault; misread the part number). My wife was at work, and so I ended up moving quite a bit of stuff out of the way so I could sneak a motorcycle out of the garage. It was just above freezing, so I bundled up and rode to the auto parts store for the correct filter.
Lesson learned...
It's a judgement call, of course. Sometimes you save a lot of time and effort by clearing **** out of the way, sometimes it's much faster to grab a u-joint or extra-long bit or whatever to avoid the extra work.
Last edited:
firebirdparts
Well-known member
Good luck with that. You obviously haven't tried it enough times.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Yes, no, maybe so.
Sometimes a job is objectively faster, but less pleasant, working around something. It's a balance. I try to touch as little as possible as a general rule. I'll do anything in my power to avoid a bumper pull on a 10yo or older car for instance. Giant can of worms. But sometimes taking off that extra part makes the job a lot simpler or less annoying. And sometimes, it's worth the time cost.
Here's a good tip - have amazon prime. I can't tell you how many special tools I've had 1 or 2 day shipped to be able to complete a job. Also, ebay is a great source for used OE tools from dealers that closed. You can get used Kent Moore tools for instance for not a lot more than a mystery meat brand on Amazon. And you know the quality will be half decent. I paid 80ish bucks or something for some OE ecotec chain holding tools on ebay, mystery meat was gonna cost me 50+.
You can also use the Amazon listing for "xyz timing tool" to find the OE tool part numbers. "Similar to, compare to, OE tool xyz".
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Some parts, purge valves for instance, will come with some random bracket on them when you buy from the dealer. You just need the purge, toss the bracket in the trash and move on. Not worth the hassle to change some little metal bracket. Which is obviously 100% fine as all it does is mount a purge valve.
engineer2
Well-known member
I failed to mention if one lacks upper body strength, it's not going to work. Been doing it my way for 45 years with 100% success.
bubinga
Well-known member
We're allowed to go off topic.
bwringer
Well-known member
I suppose some of us are just doomed to be little girly men, Mr. Schwarzenegger...
Anyhoo, back on topic, sort of: in any given group of motorcyclists, I'm nearly certain to end up as the designated mechanic. My tools and supplies are far more likely to be deployed on someone else's bike than my own.
So my tip for this and similar situations is that it's often worthwhile to carry tools that aren't necessarily needed for your machine. For example, some of my pals have taken to European motorcycles, so I added some torx bits to my kit, and I carry a 13mm socket and wrench that my Japanese brand bikes never need.
When I'm riding a bike with tube tires, I still carry my tubeless tire repair kit. It's just part of the kit and removing and replacing it would be an extra step, plus, someone I am riding with or even a stranger might still need it.
And on the topic of portable tool kits, I'd also say that it's very important to assemble your road kit using high quality tools. You could be depending on these tools for your safety to a much higher degree than you would in the comfort of your garage. If a cheap hex wrench slips in your garage, it's no big deal; you have options like a drill, plus you have plenty of shade, water, a fridge, a toilet, etc. Out on a remote road or trail, this could have life-altering consequences.
Pre-made kits are useless because they all include the cheapest possible tools and fluff the parts count with **** you don't need. You don't have to splash out on Snap-On, but make sure you carefully choose reliable stuff, not the cheap ****.
MarlynOC
Well-known member
When pulling on a wrench or socket handle always have your thumb pointing away form you to prevent you from knocking yourself out if the wrench slips or bolt breaks loose.
Similarly, if you push on the tool with your palm instead of wrapping your knuckles around it, you won't make your knuckles bleed when the wrench gives way.
rlmartinson
Well-known member
I heard this years ago and still use it to this day. If you have brake rotor/drum that is rusted on, squirt a little penetrating oil at the junction and then use a big hammer(steel) to break the rust free. But don't hit it the way your brain tells you, try to drive it back onto the hub. If you are trying to save the rotor/drum, hit it between the lugs. If you are replacing anyway, hit it on the outer edge. The rocking action help drive it off. I like my 3? pound mini sledge for this. Don't use rubber, brass, or dead blows, because you want the vibrations/ringing.
Usually a couple good whacks will get it ringing and off it comes with no damage. If you do damage it, it probably needed to be replaced anyway!
Usually a couple good whacks will get it ringing and off it comes with no damage. If you do damage it, it probably needed to be replaced anyway!
Think the hardest thing to learn is when to stop. I did a lot of late night computer work, nature of beast and when things started to go wrong it might be time to stop and do something else. The same thing for race preparation late in the shop. Having some time away often allows you to come up with different solution or see another way. Too often just throwing fixes doesn't fix it. Only causes more issues.
But it is a hard thing to learn.
But it is a hard thing to learn.
a6hux
Well-known member
Use lapping compound to fix stainless steel thread galling. I learned this trick from an old German engineer.