Mending #6 wire

[PoorOwner]

Situation as follows, some contractors working on the house and they cut the #6 wire in the middle of the run, it was a feeder to a subpanel. There was a neutral and ground was cut too.

I have not seen the area of the cut but it is either romex cable or THHN. anyways, It needs to be joined back together, then a box will enclose the splices. Running a new cable might not be practical as it seems like it is around 100 feet and difficult to run.

Unfortunately I didn't see any wire nut exists that is rated for this wire size, The contractor thinks it's ok to use wire nut, I think not,
so I am going to get the correct connector and hand it to them to fix the wire.

it's one to one, so a 2 hole connector polaris connector like below is what I need?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CTTN7J6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Contractor is correct if he uses Ideal blue 454 or similar which is rated for max 2 #6 w/ 1 #12 or similar nut made by another company...

http://www.idealindustries.ca/products/prodSelect.php?prodId=30-454&div=7

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-454-Blue-WING-NUT-Wire-Connectors-25-Pack-30-454P/202894280

For about half the cost of one Polaris connector, u can get 25 454 nuts...

Dont waste $50 splicing #6...and why arent they buying the materials needed for repair??

 

[pattenp]

If THHN it should have been in conduit, so not sure how it was cut. If Romex the splice will need to be placed in a box. You may need to add a piece because of not having enough length to pull into one box.

 

[PoorOwner]

wylie, Thanks, the ideal site says 2 #6 but the home depot page says 1 #6. I assume HD is outdated??

 

[mm08822]

If THHN it should have been in conduit, so not sure how it was cut. If Romex the splice will need to be placed in a box. You may need to add a piece because of not having enough length to pull into one box.

Right. And that means a 2nd box.

See if one side of the cut cable can be replaced back to its final location. This way maybe you can get the box in a convenient, but out of the way location.

 

[mm08822]

wylie, Thanks, the ideal site says 2 #6 but the home depot page says 1 #6. I assume HD is outdated??

HD wrong once again. The mfr knows what their product specs are. HD is just cranking out web page details by the 1000's by who knows who and hasnt a clue.

Why dont you require a licensed sparky to make the repair? That is a very reasonable request. I'm sure CA doesnt let carpenters (or whoever) just throw on a hat with a lightning bolt on it and become super sparky for the day.

 

[ard]

To expand: Code requires a few inches of wire inside a box, as I recall 6 inches. The box will be 4" square, correct? They will need to 'find' 8 extra inches of wire, right? Without pulling the cable into a position where it is no longer properly attached to the structure.

Without seeing the run, there may indeed be that slack in it- but if not, they may cut the corners.

(Personally there is a trade off here against yet another splice versus 'so the wires are a bit short'...not addressing that here. Key is YOU get to make that decision, not the contractor that F'd this up.)


I'd insist on them having a licensed electrician do it.

 

[PoorOwner]

Thanks for mentioning the slack thing, I do not believe the wire is strained when it was cut and nutted together (there is enough slack), but requiring 6 inches extra on each end? means having extra 12" of wire and I don't think there is THAT much slack.

I don't really want to do the second box, second splice though. I would be inclined to tell them just use the approved wire nut and put a box over it. Code is code, but it's not wiring to a receptacle where it needs to be pulled out, it's going to sit in a shallow 4" box with 3 wire nuts in it, it doesn't affect ability to service the box.

The company has acknowledged the problem, which was the first battle so far.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

2 junction boxes and a bunchanged of small split bolts/rubber tape would be my suggestion.

 

[Zeke]

Above ground j-boxes might be in an inconvenient place. I've not ever heard of buried j-boxes so where is everyone getting the idea that there is enough slack to do only one box?

I'd demand a new run to at least where a j-box is convenient. And while you're at it, if it makes sense, install another cable for an outlet at that box. Outlets out in the field sometimes become rather desirable.

 

[mm08822]

Above ground j-boxes might be in an inconvenient place. I've not ever heard of buried j-boxes so where is everyone getting the idea that there is enough slack to do only one box?

I'd demand a new run to at least where a j-box is convenient. And while you're at it, if it makes sense, install another cable for an outlet at that box. Outlets out in the field sometimes become rather desirable.

Kinda like post #5?

 

[mm08822]

Box size needs to be 4-11/16" x 2-1/8" for proper box fill.

Having 6-8" inside box is needed to roll wires to fit nicely and have some copper to twist. So you need 12-16" of slack from somewhere.
Don't forget to ground the box.

 

[Aceman]

Your contractor should be calling in an electrician for the repair as he obviously doesn't have an electrical license.

Any good contractor should have some good subs they work with, it should be no trouble for him to get an electrician.

 

[PoorOwner]

Box size needs to be 4-11/16" x 2-1/8" for proper box fill.

Having 6-8" inside box is needed to roll wires to fit nicely and have some copper to twist. So you need 12-16" of slack from somewhere.
Don't forget to ground the box.

Thanks for the box size spec. To be clear, it has 2 6 AWG, there is also neutral and ground going to the sub panel.

 

[mm08822]

Thanks for the box size spec. To be clear, it has 2 6 AWG, there is also neutral and ground going to the sub panel.

I assumed you have 6-3 nm-b which also has a #8 grd wire (all copper). That box can handle 8 #6's. Next smaller standard metal box can only handle 6 #6's which is too small.

 

[teamextreme]

Don't let them try to cobble a splice together with one box without the proper amount of wire slack at the box, as mentioned by a number of others. There's virtually never enough slack in a run of romex to make a proper splice with one box, but hacks always try to do it with very poor results. As already mentioned you'll need close to 16" of slack to get a proper splice in one box, very unlikely to find that.

 

[Milton Shaw]

You might also look at underground splice kits. Not very expensive and usually an inline splice that does not need as much slack as trying to get them into wire nuts. Also the shrink tubing makes a much better cover over the splice than just electrical tape over split bolts.

 

[Cmreschke]

I don't see where we are getting underground here. Did I miss it? Where is the box going to be located?

 

[Zeke]

I don't see where we are getting underground here. Did I miss it? Where is the box going to be located?

My mistake. Re-reading I don't see where this is underground either. Just a poor assumption on my part.

 

[Milton Shaw]

The underground splice kits the connectors are tubes with setscrews at each end so that the splice is not much thicker than the wire. Also they don't require a lot of slack to get the wires into them like wire nuts do. I know the splice is not in the ground just that the in the ground connectors are superior to wire nuts.

 

[PoorOwner]

I assumed you have 6-3 nm-b which also has a #8 grd wire (all copper). That box can handle 8 #6's. Next smaller standard metal box can only handle 6 #6's which is too small.

OK, that's good info I do have a question about the EMT, it's 3/4",
according to this table
http://sparkyjohn.com/pipefill/pipefill.pdf

So the 6 wires is already the max fill this size conduit, and I cannot run more wires from after the sub panel through this same 3/4" back along the same conduit? what about if I only have 3 #6 (no ground wire, EMT=EGC) then do I have fill quote to run a pair of #12s in it?

Do you also know if I have to run the neutral from the subpanel or does the feeder neutral can be used to complete a 120V circuit? The hot is from the subpanel)

 

[mm08822]

OK, that's good info I do have a question about the EMT, it's 3/4",
according to this table
http://sparkyjohn.com/pipefill/pipefill.pdf

So the 6 wires is already the max fill this size conduit, and I cannot run more wires from after the sub panel through this same 3/4" back along the same conduit? what about if I only have 3 #6 (no ground wire, EMT=EGC) then do I have fill quote to run a pair of #12s in it?

Do you also know if I have to run the neutral from the subpanel or does the feeder neutral can be used to complete a 120V circuit? The hot is from the subpanel)

I must have missed a few chapters in this book.

What are you talking about in this reply? What does it have to do with cutting/splicing 6-3 nm-b?

 

[kbuhagiar]

I must have missed a few chapters in this book.

What are you talking about in this reply? What does it have to do with cutting/splicing 6-3 nm-b?

I'm also curious as to why the OP isn't putting the burden of responsibility on the contractor that cased the damage to begin with...

 

[PoorOwner]

I must have missed a few chapters in this book.

What are you talking about in this reply? What does it have to do with cutting/splicing 6-3 nm-b?

Sorry for the confusion, it doesn't, I should probably start a separate topic. I have all the information to as far as splicing the wire and I will make sure it is done to those requirements.

They are sending someone to fix the #6 wiring, but a new 120v circuit still need to be run which was what I paid them to do.

 

[mm08822]

Sorry for the confusion, it doesn't, I should probably start a separate topic. I have all the information to as far as splicing the wire and I will make sure it is done to those requirements.

They are sending someone to fix the #6 wiring, but a new 120v circuit still need to be run which was what I paid them to do.

If I understand this correctly, you hired some handyman hack to string some romex, but he isnt smart enough to properly handle/repair a small feeder? What are you doing?

 

[PoorOwner]

If I understand this correctly, you hired some handyman hack to string some romex, but he isnt smart enough to properly handle/repair a small feeder? What are you doing?

I hired a company that does repair and improve drainage under the house. part of the job was to add an 120v under there. In the process the worker decided to cut and splice and outlet from the #6 wiring. The guy either throw out a section of conduit or cut the nm-b. (If it was nm-b) I don't have time to go down and see yet. they sent another person who saw what poor work that was done and seem to know more about electrical stuff
thats why I am complaining and I would like it all put back to safe condition. Plus run the wire properly to the location.

 

[mm08822]

Now the whole story makes sense.

Hire a sparky to fix their screwup and run the other circuit. Back charge the 6-3 repair to the drainage company and you pay for the 120v. All electrical done correctly.

Let the other clowns do the drainage work only.

Sounds like you set yourself up for part of this problem. Its not worth it in the end to cut corners. It always costs more ......someway.

 

[ard]

]

I hired a company that does repair and improve drainage under the house. part of the job was to add an 120v under there. In the process the worker decided to cut and splice and outlet from the #6 wiring. The guy either throw out a section of conduit or cut the nm-b. (If it was nm-b) I don't have time to go down and see yet. they sent another person who saw what poor work that was done and seem to know more about electrical stuff
thats why I am complaining and I would like it all put back to safe condition. Plus run the wire properly to the location.

Huh....

You don't know what was done, what was there before..or what it looks like now- yet you were focused on the wire nuts?!?

You've got to appreciate that it is hard to give someone advice when they actually don't know what their job really *is*. Part of the confusion in this thread may have stemmed from that. Just saying...

GL

 

[walrus]

Just what I would want, drainage guys doing electrical work. Hire an electrician to do electrical work and drainage guys to do drain work and you will be better off.

 

[EOC_Jason]

Besides using wire nuts they make splicers and also split-bolts... However with those I would wrap with that foam insulating tape first, then regular electrical tape.

I agree with others... Have a licensed electrician come in to fix their mistake, deduct that from the drainage company's invoice...