Metal Air Compressor Plumbing

[Beemer533]

Insofar as the insurance debate, any one that leaves the air lines charged after use is a fool.

Why exactly would someone be a fool for leaving airlines charged?

 

[Ferrino]

Guys, what do you think of the suggestion to use a coil of copper? This would seem to work well for me in terms of placement, because I have some space directly above the compressor (between the pump and the ceiling) and it could drain back into the tank, so no need for lots of drain legs. I guess I would need some sort of structure to hold the coils such that they are always allowing gravity to send moisture back down to the tank (and to tether it to the wall/ceiling)? This coil of 50 ft. of 1/2" copper comes in at $83 at Lowe's. I also like the fact that there are only 2 joints to be made and you could place a box fan to blow air through it if needed.

 

[akdiesel]

Find out the working pressure rating. Those are soft copper coils.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Guys, what do you think of the suggestion to use a coil of copper? This would seem to work well for me in terms of placement, because I have some space directly above the compressor (between the pump and the ceiling) and it could drain back into the tank, so no need for lots of drain legs. I guess I would need some sort of structure to hold the coils such that they are always allowing gravity to send moisture back down to the tank (and to tether it to the wall/ceiling)? This coil of 50 ft. of 1/2" copper comes in at $83 at Lowe's. I also like the fact that there are only 2 joints to be made and you could place a box fan to blow air through it if needed.

If it's "L", the pressure rating is somewhere north of 300#.

Tommy

 

[Ferrino]

Yes, it is listed as "L" and with a max PSI rating of 363. See the item here:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_4198-58421-D+08050PSE_0__?productId=4742196

Thinking I could just have a shop put flared ends on and not worry about soldered connections? Or how about compression fittings?

 

[bfr57]

I've had the thought of taking the line between compressor and tank and running it underground and use natural cooling. The only part I haven't figured out is how to drain the lines in the ground since they'll be at the lowest point?

 

[Rickss96]

More info here in an older post titled "Upgrading air compressor plumbing"
http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=214394
You might take a look at post #141 where FTG-05 shows a picture of a Franzinator he built and plumbed between the compressor and tank.
Lots of other experience posted here too.

 

[Ferrino]

BTW, when we refer to 1/2" pipe, are we talking inner or outer diameter? I understand that both are used, making things confusing.

 

[encantofred]

make sure you use the 95/5 solder. 95 tin and 5 antimony. it has 4x the psi strength at the joint than regular solder does. the joints are the weak spot, not the pipe with copper.

http://www.copper.org/applications/plumbing/cth/technical-data/tables/cth_table4.html

tom

 

[Julway]

Hi Gents. I am new to your forum, very interesting I must admit.
A sure fire way to prevent water in a airline is to lower the dew point. get yourself a old chest freezer, make a small hole CAREFULLY in the top of the side ( opposite to the freezer compressor compartment), check the refrigeration coil is clear, then make hole suitable for the copper pipe.
repeat process at the bottom of the freezer.
Bottom hole is for closest to compressor, (the water drain can be added here)
top is for your working line. unroll the copper pipe as close to the sides of the freezer as possible, I use aluminum tape to tape the copper pipe to the sides.
Seal the holes with whatever waterproof sealer you have.
Turn freezer on in fridge mode add beers and spray / use whatever air you need or until the beer runs out......add more beer to the mix and carry on
The water will always drain back to the bottom and can be drained off using the
bottom drain **** you installed.
All the best Wayne.