Metal building insulation...again

[chipjumper]

what if you just want to use it as a storage building for your boat or RV? Does it really even need insulation? Will I have issues with condensation on the panels creating rain inside the building?

Not needed for pure storage unless you have a specific need for climate control. I work on cars for fun and it’s nice not to freeze my **** off on those 10 degree days.

 

[fastmerc]

If you are using a radiant barrier (foil faced board) and the barrier faces OUT to reject heat during the summer (like my shop set up), you have to have an air gap for the barrier to do its job. If you are only insulating or facing the barrier into the shop, you do not need to have the spacers. In order for a radiant barrier to do its job properly, there must be an air gap (most sources I read say a minimum of 1/2") between the foil facing and the surface next to it.

And yes, there is a difference between R1.9 and R5. Get the R5 if your are just worried about insulating (keeping heat in). If you are just using the radiant barrier to reject heat (again, like me), the R1.9 is fine. The more you want to rely on heating the shop for winter time, the higher the R value you will want. I do not heat my shop at all.... I mean, it was 74 hear today, tomorrow will be cold (40s down into the 20s) but then it will warm back up into at least the 50s or 60s. Heating is a waste where I live IMHO.

Knight,

You seem to be one of the only responding to closed cell EPS type panels being place on tin walls. I have asked this in Gen Discussion I believe and no responses other than a good one on theory.

SO, I have made up 3/4-13/16" spacers for the air gap to keep air flowing up the building walls and hopefully ridding that air of moisture as it works itself up the walls, to the gap in the ceiling insulation, and out....

My big question is what to do about a gap at the bottom of the insulation panels! If I believe the theory, you insulate and seal to create an air tight-ish box inside your tin box. Is it right to presume that the steel panels don't fit the cement tightly and that enough air will travel up the cracks, up the contours of the tin.........?

I keep hearing that I should be venting internal air under the panels....by leaving a 1/2-1" gap at the bottom of the insulation..... Since you can't exhaust air without incoming air.......in this scenario....where is the air coming IN to push the old air OUT??????

As I stated in my post.....my tin building has more gaps and holes than a screen door canoe...... It's good, but for an **** retentive challenged soul like myself, I would have liked to see it done mo' better. But I gots what I gots! Make the best of it.

Any comments about gaps? Otherwise I'm leaving about a 1/4" gap at the bottom to the floor and will foam seal that once I have it all hung.......damn the torpedoes! Foam cutting to the max!!!

I just finished putting mouse inhibitors in the major profile "holes" to prevent furry things from getting in..... One more corner hole to go on this section......then wall board goes on! Spacers I fab'd up out of metal stud materials...rebent for more glue area... Boss 180 Pro adhesive due to heat generated by sun on tin walls. Good stuff but not cheap....hell what is these days???? But small price to pay for making it happen now....and staying happened!

Thanks!
Steve