Metal building insulation.

[Astross89]

First let me say, I just found this forum. Lots of info. Second, I do know how to use the search button. Problem is I'm more confused now after reading to much. Lol.

I just signed on a 24x36x10 metal/carport style building. 3-9x8 doors. Location. Central FL.

I know I should have planned better and done more research before signing. The only insulation they offered was double bubble insulation. I did not add it.

So after reading and learning about condensation. My question is, other then spray foam. What is the easiest and most budget way to stop it? Doesn't have to be the best for r-value. Just what will be the best bang for your buck to stop it.

I know the rule buy once cry once. But I just don't have the budget for foam. I was lucky enough to get the building. I might be asking something that isn't possible. But I figured I would ask. Thank you.

UPDATE:

Link: https://i.imgur.com/Pdo7e86.png

I have narrowed down my choices to 3. Please follow the link to look at my great mspaint work. LOL. 1 uses rigid insulation. The other 2 options use blanket fiberglass insulation. The Rigid is my least expensive of the 3. The Rigid is a 1 inch thick board. The fiberglass will probably be 3 in. I know none of those are that thick. But it should help for what I'm doing. Y'all have been great. Thank you for yours help. And as soon as I get my building drawings and permits I will start a build thread.

 

[pgilmore7]

I’m in the same boat, I’m also in central Florida. I have the building already and let me tell you, here you need insulation to keep your building from becoming a toaster. That’s just my opinion. After all the research, it seems (from what I’ve found)the best way to insulate is foam if the building wasn’t built with insulation. I can’t afford the foam right now.


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[readhead]

Blanket insulation can be installed using steel strapping. Another option would be rigid insulation which would be better if you plan to install some kind of wall finish. Start with the roof and work your way to the walls as budget allows.

 

[Dragfluid]

Put in a ceiling and blow in some cellulose. Then do the walls as budget permits.

 

[ZipSnafu]

Blanket insulation can be installed using steel strapping. Another option would be rigid insulation which would be better if you plan to install some kind of wall finish. Start with the roof and work your way to the walls as budget allows.

Good advice IMO. Foam from what has been said will void a lot of steal buildings warranties. Something to look at.

 

[Astross89]

Good advice IMO. Foam from what has been said will void a lot of steal buildings warranties. Something to look at.

Just got off the phone with them. Yes spray foam will void their warranty. So my next question is which one would be better? If I go Ridgid do you just cut it tight and just shove it in? And does anyone have a link to what type of blanket insulation so I can get an idea of the correct one to use. I apologize for all the questions. I'm not as dumb as I sound LOL. Just wanted advise from the experts.

 

[My Old Tools]

I had my building wrapped with blanket insulation before the sheets went on, then had the ceiling insulated again by strapping and adding another 6 inches in the ceiling.

 

[readhead]

When we install rigid foam we cut it a little small and then "glue" it in with canned foam. One downfall with using rigid foam is that there is no thermal break at the frames and you may still get some condensation on the frames. Air circulation will usually cure that.

Contact an insulation supplier or metal building component supplier about blanket insulation.

I can't stress enough how often I hear this story. A lot of buildings get built without insulation because of budget reasons. In fact it will always cost more to insulate later. If insulation will kill the budget then start looking at a smaller building that can be expanded later but don't leave it out. One thing that the building supplier will never tell you is that if you aren't going to insulate now you should install a thermal break tape between the secondary steel and the sheeting so that if you insulate later you won't have a condensation problem. Don't be fooled with bubble wrap. It is worthless and will fail in a few years.

 

[readhead]

Great picture of a quality installation. Thanks for sharing. You can see the initial insulation installed between the girts and the sheeting. The squeezed insulation is providing the thermal break. The second layer in the roof is a common practice to get the full insulation value. It is often code required.

 

[welder57]

Contact Bay Insulation, Therm-all or Silver-coat Insulation-they will give you a quote for insulation. Redhead is correct more cost efficient now than later. R-13 is standard for walls and R-19 for the roof.

 

[Astross89]

Contact Bay Insulation, Therm-all or Silver-coat Insulation-they will give you a quote for insulation. Redhead is correct more cost efficient now than later. R-13 is standard for walls and R-19 for the roof.

OK. Thank you for the heads up. I will call them.

Just playing scenarios in my head. Let's say worst case. I can get some blanket insulation and have the installers apply it during install on the roof. Would the following help any with the walls. Or just the wrong way or waste of money. Someone said rigid cut and inserted may be a small problem. But what if I was to install all the interior walls on the beams opposite side of the metal siding with ridged and tape all seams. Then install plywood siding to finish off my walls and hold it into place. I already planned on trying to do a finish interior. I know the r-value is low. But would it help or stop condensation?

Insulation https://imgur.com/a/dqX47

 

[readhead]

You are probably getting 29ga sheeting which will not mix well with sandwiched insulation. Your rigid scenario should work fine.

 

[2Big2Ride]

I had my building wrapped with blanket insulation before the sheets went on, then had the ceiling insulated again by strapping and adding another 6 inches in the ceiling.

I would like to add a second layer of insulation to our metal building roof like yours - bet that makes a big difference.

 

[Astross89]

You are probably getting 29ga sheeting which will not mix well with sandwiched insulation. Your rigid scenario should work fine.

Sounds like a plain. Thank you for all the help. I don't know what I'm getting on the sides (I should). But the roof is 26ga. Should I do a sandwich insulation or same rigid method for the roof?

 

[readhead]

With 26ga you could use 4" but be careful about running the screws down to tight.

 

[ZipSnafu]

I did 4" blanket insulation when I built my 40 x 60 metal building and I get very little to no condensation problems. On a really humid day with the doors open I might get a little condensation on surfaces but I think that is expected.

 

[mgbbob]

HI, I just had a 24' x 35' from Alan's installed with the double bubble insulation. I live near Kansas City so it gets cold here. The insulation is probably not the final answer but I have been happy with the results so far. I can get the shop warmed up into the 60s on a 20 degree day with a 38000 btu topped heater. There was a sizable amount of scrap material they left me that I have been able to do one of the short walls with. I get a sizable amount of cold radiating through the 2 1/4" steel tubing even though the insulation is on the outside. A second layer on the inside makes a huge difference. 2" rigid foam is an option, I am going to see how it does in the summer heat. I may just add a second layer of the double bubble on the inside. I would recommend you thing about adding it. I don't think you can buy anything for that price, especially considering it goes on the outside of your posts.

 

[mgbbob]

That should say torpedo heater and I forgot to mention I have 12' sidewalks so there is a lot of space at the top to heat.

 

[Natemade]

I am in the process of insulating my carport shop and this is the direction I went.
http://www.shopcabotcomponents.com/insulation-faced-fiberglass.html

Is taking a but of trimming to fit well between the studs but overall I'm happy with the results

 

[Astross89]

I am in the process of insulating my carport shop and this is the direction I went.
http://www.shopcabotcomponents.com/insulation-faced-fiberglass.html

Is taking a but of trimming to fit well between the studs but overall I'm happy with the results

They seem to have good prices and can pick up in lakeland. Below is a link for the walls. Please give me y'alls input on which way would benefit more to stop condensation.

Link: https://i.imgur.com/Pdo7e86.png

 

[fabjunkie]

In my first shop I had 3" blanket done during construction and you could tell it made a difference. On my second shop I did 6" roof and walls(same builder, said he would never do it on a roof again, too heavy to stretch out easily). WOW!! I measured 165* on the outside wall and 85* on the inside on the insulation. This shop kept a pretty constant temp at 80-85* in the summer with outside temps in the 100*+. With a couple ceiling fans going it wasn't bad at all.

Now I've moved once again and I'm in an existing building that has no insulation and am in the same boat. Moving in the bottom of the roof panels had mold/mildew from the condensation and the walls were covered in a layer of weird restaurant kitchen type dirt/grease. So I pressure washed the entire interior from peak to floor. Now I'm debating whether or not to insulate. I'm not going to spend the money on spray foam and I know bubble wrap is ****. I think rigid foam is the way to go. I'm planning on putting up another building and using this one as the "dirty" metal shop so I'm not even sure I'm too worried about insulating this one. I'll see how bad it is this summer once I get some ceiling fans up.

 

[Astross89]

UPDATE:

Link: https://i.imgur.com/Pdo7e86.png

I have narrowed down my choices to 3. Please follow the link to look at my great mspaint work. LOL. 1 uses rigid insulation. The other 2 options use blanket fiberglass insulation. The Rigid is my least expensive of the 3. The Rigid is a 1 inch thick board. The fiberglass will probably be 3 in. I know none of those are that thick. But it should help for what I'm doing. Y'all have been great. Thank you for yours help. And as soon as I get my building drawings and permits I will start a build thread.

 

[ZipSnafu]

I did option three on mine as per the manufacturer of the building.

 

[My Old Tools]

I would like to add a second layer of insulation to our metal building roof like yours - bet that makes a big difference.

My last building was always hot up high with just the 3" insulation. Adding the 6" over head makes a huge difference in Texas.

 

[Dragfluid]

Linky no worky. At least not for me.

NM,,,, won't work in Firefox. Had to open in Explorer.

 

[TAftonomos]

What did you end up going with? I want/wanted spray foam...but I'm having trouble finding a contractor that will actually return a phone call.

Rigid foam seems easy enough, but I don't know if I will end up with mold issues between the spaces of the rigid foam and the metal skin?

My space will be a workshop with my metal shaping tools...I have to limit/eliminate any chance of "raining" inside like I've seen posted on other insulated metal shops.